IJES Self-Study on Participants' Sex in Exercise Science: Sex-Data Gap and Corresponding Author Survey.

A sex-data gap exists between females and males within the sport and exercise science literature, and implications are far-reaching. The purpose of this work was to (a) heed recent calls and scrutinize data from within IJES to address the gap and (b) gain insight on self-identified sex of IJES corresponding authors. The present self-study included all published manuscripts from 2008 through 2021. A total of 851 publications were included, and 806 (94.7%) reported data on participant sex. There was a difference between publications that included only females (n = 132) versus only males (n = 215), and three publications reported data on sex according to non-binary identifications (0.4%). There was an overall difference between the number of female (n = 54,153; 35.9%) and male (n = 96,890; 64.1%) participants. To gain insight on self-identified sex of corresponding authors, we performed an IRB-approved research study. Among 761 unique corresponding authors, 168 individuals provided 157 usable responses-58 biological females (36.9%) and 99 biological males (63.1%). We fully support the prerogative of researchers to ethically conduct investigations and encourage open-mindedness and inclusion in future research. With data revealing an approximate one-third female (36%) and two-thirds male (64%) composition, and corresponding author feedback on self-identified sex being similar (36.9% and 63.1%, respectively), we propose a new concept that should be analyzed: is the sex-data gap representative of the composition of the field? We are not excusing the sex-data gap issue as if it cannot be addressed, and we urge others to join us in researching this line of inquiry.

Early Sport Specialization and Past Injury in Competitive Youth Rock Climbers.

INTRODUCTION: Sport specialization has been shown to have negative effects on athletes but has not been studied within rock climbing. This study seeks to evaluate the proportion and impact of specialization in pediatric climbers. METHODS: Climbers (ages 8-18 y) were recruited from throughout the United States to complete a 1-time survey regarding climbing experience, training patterns, and injury history. The main outcome of proportion of climbers suffering an injury was assessed within the last 12 mo and within their entire climbing experience (defined as "lifetime" injury). Early specialization was defined as exclusive participation in climbing, with training for >8 mo‧y-1, prior to age 12 y (late specialization if after age 12 y). RESULTS: Participants (n=111, 14±3 y [mean±SD], 69 females) were high-level climbers. Fifty-five percent of participants specialized in climbing, and 69% of those specialized early. Hand and ankle injuries occurred most commonly. Seventy-eight percent of late specialized climbers had a lifetime injury. Late specialized climbers were 1.6 times (95% CI: 1.1-2.3) more likely than early specialized climbers to have had a lifetime injury and 1.8 times (95% CI: 1.1-2.8) more likely to have had an injury in the last 12 mo. No difference in overuse injuries was found between specialization groups. CONCLUSIONS: Early specialization is common among youth climbers but was not associated with an increase in injuries. Late specialization was associated with a higher likelihood of having had a climbing injury in the last 12 mo and during an entire climbing career.

Rock Climbing for Promoting Physical Activity in Youth.

Prevalence of overweight and obesity in youth has steadily increased over the last decade, although it appears to have currently stabilized. Physical inactivity is a major contributor to this obesity epidemic, and more than half of American youth do not meet physical activity recommendations. Rock climbing and bouldering require both aerobic and anaerobic fitness, with the metabolic cost comparable to moderate to vigorous physical activity in adults. Minimal data on youth climbers exist, yet climbing is extremely popular with youth, and thus the sport may be a viable option for decreasing the prevalence of obesity. Available data show that rock climbing can provide youth with muscular strength and endurance building exercise, and possibly improve flexibility. In addition, rock climbing has the potential to provide youth with moderate levels of physical activity according to recommended guidelines. Nine peer reviewed articles are included in this review, as these are the articles specifically associated with youth climbing and health-related fitness. Due to limited research in this area, no articles were excluded if they were related to health-related fitness and youth and rock climbing/bouldering. This review aims to systematically address the impact of rock climbing and bouldering on health-related fitness in youth.

MEASUREMENT OF ENERGY EXPENDITURE WHILE PLAYING EXERGAMES AT A SELF-SELECTED INTENSITY.

Exergames have been suggested as a possible alternative to traditional exercise in the general population. The purpose of this study was to examine the heart rate (HR) and energy expenditure (EE) of young adults playing several different exergames, while self-selecting the component of the game to play and the intensity. A total of 117 participants, 18-35 years of age, were evaluated on one of four active video games. Participants were free to choose any component of the given game to play and they played at a self-selected intensity. The average HR and EE during the individual games were compared to resting conditions and to the American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM) guidelines. The HR and EE increased above resting conditions during each game (p<0.05). When the results of all games were combined, the HR was 125.4 ± 20.0 bpm and the average EE was 6.7 ± 2.1 kcal/min. This HR represents an average percent of heart rate reserve of 44.6 ± 14.1, high enough to be considered moderate intensity exercise. If performed for 30 minutes a day, five days per week, the average EE would be 1,005 kcals, enough to meet the ACSM recommendations for weekly EE. Therefore, at least some exergames could be a component of an exercise program.

Correlates of physical activity and inactivity in urban Mexican youth.

OBJECTIVES: To evaluate correlates of physical activity in Mexico City school youth. METHODS: A cross-sectional survey was conducted with 1,004 school youth (490 males and 514 females), 9-18 years of age resident in Mexico City. Age, height, body mass index (BMI), socioeconomic status (SES), time viewing television and playing video games (physical inactivity), and perceived sport/physical activity status of mother and father were evaluated as potential correlates of physical activity [Physical Activity Questionnaire (PAQ)]. Multiple linear regression analyses (backward elimination) by age group and sex were used. RESULTS: Physical activity declined in older adolescents, while differences between the two younger age groups were minimal. Television time showed a similar tendency. Overall, fathers were perceived as being active in sport/physical activity more frequently than mothers. Significant predictors of activity differed by age group and sex. For the total sample, age (negative) and perceived sport/activity status of the mother (positive) were significant predictors of the PAQ in boys, and age and the BMI (negative) and height and perceived sport/activity status of both parents (positive) were significant predictors for girls. Age (negative) was the main predictor for inactivity in both males and females. CONCLUSIONS: Potential correlates of physical activity and inactivity considered in this analysis were limited and accounted for relatively little of the variance in physical activity. The role of perceived sport/activity of the parents, especially among younger boys and girls, is particularly of interest and merits more detailed study. Nevertheless, many other variables also need to be considered.

The Addition of a Video Game to Stationary Cycling: The Impact on Energy Expenditure in Overweight Children.

INTRODUCTION: The prevalence of obesity in children has reached epidemic proportions with over 37% of children aged 6-11 years in the U.S. being classified as "at risk for overweight" or "overweight." Utilization of active video games has been proposed as one possible mechanism to help shift the tide of the obesity epidemic. PURPOSE: The purpose of this study was to determine if riding a stationary bike that controlled a video game would lead to significantly greater energy expenditure than riding the same bike without the video game connected. METHODS: Twenty children, 7-14 years old, with a BMI classification of "at risk for overweight" or "overweight" participated in this study. Following familiarization, energy expenditure was evaluated while riding a stationary bike for 20 minutes. One test was performed without the addition of a video game and one test with the bike controlling the speed of a car on the video game. RESULTS: Oxygen consumption and energy expenditure were significantly elevated above baseline in both conditions. Energy expenditure was significantly higher while riding the bike as it controlled the video game (4.4 ± 1.2 Kcal·min(-1)) than when riding the bike by itself (3.7 ± 1.1 Kcal·min(-1)) (p<0.05). Perceived exertion was not significantly different between the two sessions (p>0.05). CONCLUSION: Using a stationary bike to control a video game led to greater energy expenditure than riding a stationary bike without the video game and without a related increase in perceived exertion.

Active Video/Arcade Games (Exergaming) and Energy Expenditure in College Students.

Video games have become increasingly popular among young adults. The purpose of this pilot study was to determine if interactive video/arcade games, requiring physical activity to play, increase the energy expenditure (EE) and heart rate (HR) of young adults enough to elicit a training response. Thirteen male and female participants 26.6 ± 5.7 years of age were in the study. Participants were familiarized with equipment and allowed to practice with three games: (1) moving and striking lighted pads, (2) riding a bike to increase the pace of a race car, and (3) boxing against a video simulated opponent. A portable metabolic cart and HR monitor were attached to participants to measure baseline and exercise values. Participants could play any of the three games for 30 minutes while metabolic and HR data were collected. Exercise data were compared to baseline measures, and the 3 games were compared for EE. Paired sample t-tests showed baseline and exercise values differed for HR (t(12) = -18.91, p < 0.01), and EE (t(12) = -15.62, p < 0.01). The boxing game provided the highest VO2 (17.47 ± 4.79 ml·kg(·-1)min(-1)). Participants achieved 60% or better of their HR reserve (162.82 ± 10.78 beats·min(-1),) well within the ACSM guidelines for a training HR. Caloric expenditure during the 30-minute exercise session (226. 07 ± 48.68) is also within the ACSM recommendations for daily physical activity. Thus, interactive video/arcade games that require physical activity to play can be utilized as part of an overall aerobic exercise program.

Active Video Games and Energy Expenditure in Overweight Children.

The prevalence of overweight in children has increased significantly in recent years. Frequent television viewing and the playing of video games have often been linked to the high prevalence of overweight. The purpose of this study was to determine if overweight children, given access to active video games, will play them at an intensity that will significantly increase energy expenditure. Twenty-three children, classified as "at risk for overweight" or "overweight," participated in this study. After a 10-minute baseline period in which the children watched a cartoon, the participants played the Jackie Chan Fitness Studio® (Xavix, Hong Kong) games for 30 minutes while rotating through the games as desired and resting whenever needed. Energy expenditure significantly increased from a mean at baseline of 1.15 ± 0.32 kcal/min to 4.08±1.18 kcal/min during the 30-minutes that the participants were given access to the games (p <.001). The total energy expenditure during the 30-minute time frame was 122.30 ± 35.40 kcal. The energy expenditure varied between individuals, with a low value of 75.00 kcal to a high of 205.86 kcal. Although a modest level of energy expenditure, this level of exertion could contribute to an overall weight control program in children.

Age at menarche in competitive figure skaters: variation by competency and discipline.

We estimated age at menarche in a cross-sectional sample of 159 competitive figure skaters aged 11-22 years. The sample represented three standards (test stream, pre-elite, elite) and three disciplines (free skaters, pair skaters, dancers). The status quo (yes/no) and retrospective methods were used. Estimated age at menarche based on probit analysis of the status quo data was 14.2 +/- 0.5 years, with 95% confidence intervals of 13.2 to 15.2 years. Mean recalled age at menarche for 67 skaters aged 16 years or over was 13.6 +/- 1.2 years. Comparisons of skaters by standard and discipline were limited to skaters > or = 16 years. Menarche was, on average, significantly later (P < 0.01) in elite (n = 36; 14.0 +/- 1.4 years) than in test stream (n = 15; 12.9 +/- 0.8 years) skaters. Age at menarche in pre-elite skaters (n = 16; 13.5 +/- 0.9 years) did not differ significantly from the other two groups. By discipline, menarche was, on average, significantly later (P < 0.01) in pair skaters (n = 12; 14.5 +/- 1.3 years) than in both free skaters (n = 38; 13.4 +/- 1.0 years) and dancers (n = 17; 13.4 +/- 1.4 years). Early maturing girls (menarche < 12.0 years; n = 2) were not represented in this sample of competitive figure skaters. Mean recalled age at menarche of mothers of skaters (n = 84) was 13.7 +/- 1.3 years and the mother-daughter correlation (n = 56 pairs) was 0.45 (P < 0.01). Later maturation was thus characteristic of competitive figure skaters, particularly in elite and more specialized pair skaters, and there was a significant familial resemblance.