Flow cytometry as an alternative method to evaluate genotoxicity of natural cosmetic actives.

Alternative in vitro methods are important, as there is a call to ban the use of animals in cosmetics research. AIM: To suggest the expansion of the use of in vitro safety techniques recommended by the OECD guidelines and to propose the use of the automation of the in vitro mammalian micronucleus test method by flow cytometry to assess the genotoxic potential of Centella asiatica, Horse Chestnut, Witch Hazel, Blend, Ecoblend, and Caffeine extracts due to their widespread use in commercial products. METHODS: Flow cytometer analysis was performed using the Accuri™ C6 equipment and analyzed using the FlowJo software. Cytotoxicity tests followed OECD 129 guidelines and Phototoxicity followed OECD/GD 432 guidelines. RESULTS: The results showed that the cytotoxicity assay presented a decrease in cell viability when cells were exposed to Centella asiatica from a concentration of 5.0%, horse chestnut 2.5%, Witch hazel 2.5%, Blend 3.13%, and Caffeine 3%, while Ecoblend at the tested concentrations did not show cytotoxicity. In the phototoxicity test, the samples at the tested concentrations showed a PIF <2 being considered potentially non-phototoxic. Finally, in the genotoxicity automated assay, samples were considered potentially non-genotoxic. CONCLUSION: In vitro methods are of paramount importance for the development of pre-clinical tests and the use of test automation helps to reduce the time for analysis and dissemination of results, being a determining factor for the prospect of new compounds.

Modulation of autophagy by an innovative phytocosmetic preparation (Myrothamnus flabelifolia and Coffea arabica) in human fibroblasts and its effects in a clinical randomized placebo-controlled trial.

BACKGROUND: Autophagy is a natural and evolutionary mechanism that reduces cell toxic components and reutilizes metabolites to provide energy and renew cell function, which is linked to a wide range of age-related diseases, including those that affect the skin. Positive modulation of autophagy is useful to treat skin disorders and new active herbal products are potential candidates as autophagy modulators. AIMS: The present study aimed to evaluate the effects of a phytocosmetic formulation containing Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf and Coffea arabica seed plant extracts (MflCas) on the ubiquitin-proteasome and autophagy markers in human dermal fibroblasts, and investigate its topical skin effects in a randomized, simple-blind, and placebo-controlled trial. METHODS: Human dermal fibroblasts were used to determine proteasome activity, protein carbonylation, LC3B protein, and lipofuscin production by luminescence and immune-enzymatic assays, and to determinate gene expression of autophagy biomarkers (Atg5, Atg7, EI24, EIF2A, Park2, foxo1, and mTOR) by RT-PCR. A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of MflCas on the hand, face, and forearms skin features after treatment by 56 days. RESULTS: Topical treatment with MflCas improved several skin features of volunteers, mainly skin aging and pigmentation signals. On the hand skin, MflCas 2% after 56 days of treatment, reduced the spots length (30.8%), skin contrast (42.2%), and increased skin homogeneity (63.2%) and skin lightening effect (1.4%). On the face skin, topical treatment after 56 days reduced the spots length (21.5%), wrinkles area (8.1%), and wrinkles volume (5.6%) with an increment in face skin homogeneity (59.5%). These effects were related to the ability of MflCas to reduce proteasome activity protein carbonylation, and lipofuscin level, increase LC3B production, downregulate Atg7 and mTOR genes, and upregulate Park2 gene expressions. CONCLUSIONS: The phytocosmetic preparation containing Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf and Coffea arabica seed modulated ubiquitin-proteasome and autophagy process, representing an innovative and safe herbal preparation to improve skin features, mainly acting as skin anti-aging and lightening agent.

Propanediol (and) Caprylic Acid (and) Xylitol as a New Single Topical Active Ingredient against Acne: In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy Assays.

In addition to dermatological complications, acne can affect the quality of life of individuals in numerous ways, such as employment, social habits and body dissatisfaction. According to our expertise, caprylic acid and propanediol would not have a direct action on Cutibacterium acnes. Despite this, we investigated the existence of a synergistic effect among xylitol, caprylic acid and propanediol as a mixture of compounds representing a single topical active ingredient that could benefit the treatment against acne. In vitro and in vivo assays were performed to challenge and to prove the efficacy of propanediol, xylitol and caprylic acid (PXCA) against acne. PXCA had its MIC challenged against C. acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus aureus, resulting in concentrations of 0.125% and 0.25%, respectively, and it also developed antimicrobial activity against C. acnes (time-kill test). PXCA was able to reduce the 5-alpha reductase expression in 24% (p < 0.01) in comparison with the testosterone group. By the end of 28 days of treatment, the compound reduced the skin oiliness, porphyrin amount and the quantity of inflammatory lesions in participants. According to the dermatologist evaluation, PXCA improved the skin's general appearance, acne presence and size.

Vitamin E-loaded bigels and emulsions: Physicochemical characterization and potential biological application.

Bigels have been studied as topical formulations for its benefits over sensory and drug delivery parameters. However, there is still few evidences about the properties of the combination of organogelators, oily phases and bioactive molecules into rheological and stability behavior. We investigated the use of classical organogelators (candelilla wax and 12-hydroxystearic acid) and oily phases (sunflower and mineral oil) in 5/95 organogel/polymeric hydrogel ratio to compare vitamin E bigels with its corresponding emulsions. The rheological measurements, microstructure, physical and oxidative stability properties and biological behavior were evaluated. The obtained oil-in-water bigels and emulsions showed crystallization pattern at the interface with high thermal and centrifuge-stress stability. Viscoelastic weak gels were obtained with higher thixotropy and consistency of 12-hydroxystearic bigels. The diameter of the inner phase was increased by vitamin E, despite its little influence over physical and oxidative stability of bigels and emulsions. Those findings indicated that sensory attributes may be regulated by the organogel composition.

A new phytocosmetic preparation from Thymus vulgaris stimulates adipogenesis and controls skin aging process: In vitro studies and topical effects in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial.

BACKGROUND: The use of the injectable products for soft tissue augmentation and treatment of skin aging is an uncomfortable, invasive and related to several complications, and chronic reactions, mainly after long-term application. Efforts to develop new topically active anti-aging products with fewer adverse effects are a huge challenge that should be faced. AIMS: We evaluated the anti-aging effects of a phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris associated with lecithin (ThymLec) on the facial wrinkles, expression lines, and face oval remodeling using a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial and in vitro cell culture assays. METHODS: A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ThymLec 2% on the area, length, and depth of the perioral and crow's feet wrinkles, nasolabial and smile lines, as well as face oval remodeling in female volunteers using a sophisticated Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. In the in vitro studies using 3T3-L1 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, adiponectin was measured by immunoenzymatic assay, adipogenesis by the AdipoRed reagent method, and the PPAR-γ expression by RT-PCR analysis. RESULTS: Topical treatment with ThymLec 2% reduced facial wrinkles and expression lines promoting a face oval remodeling. In the in vitro studies, ThymLec upregulated the PPAR-γ expression increasing adiponectin production and stimulating the adipogenesis process. CONCLUSIONS: The phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris and lecithin is an innovative and safe topical anti-aging product promoting fat tissue augmentation by adipogenesis stimulation via the upregulation of PPAR-γ expression and adiponectin production.

Coumaric acid derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors: Efficacy studies through in silico, in vitro and ex vivo approaches.

p-Coumaric acid is a known inhibitor of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the initial steps of the melanin synthesis in human and other species. However, its low lipophilicity impairs its penetration through skin and efficacy as antimelanogenic agent indeed. Accordingly, this paper reports the assessment of several coumaric acid derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors and antimelanogenic agents in in vitro, in silico and ex vivo assays. The compounds were designed with modifications in the aromatic and acid moieties of p-coumaric acid, being the coumarate esters the most promising derivatives. The compounds showed higher tyrosinase inhibitory activity (pIC50 3.7-4.2) than the parent acid, being compounds 1d, 1e and 1f the most potent inhibitors. Docking analysis showed that these esters are competitive inhibitors per se, and act independently of a redox mechanism as suggested by DPPH assays. Moreover, the esters showed efficacy in reducing the melanin deposition in human skin fragments at 0.1% concentration, especially compound 1e. In summary, there is an important equilibria between tyrosinase affinity and lipophilicity that must be considered to get effective antimelanogenic agents with adequate permeability in the skin.

Novel topical skin hydration agent containing Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide-standardized herbal preparation.

BACKGROUND: Hydration is an important factor to promote skin barrier function, metabolism, and appearance. In this process, the presence of aquaglyceroporins, envelope and lipid synthesis, and metabolism proteins are essential to provide greater corneocyte cohesion and to form a barrier avoiding transepidermal water loss. OBJECTIVE: We evaluated the effects of a new topical pigment-free agent containing an Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide-rich dermocosmetic preparation (ACP) on the aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (INV), glucocerebrosidase (GBA), and elongation of very-long-chain fatty acid (ELOVL) proteins production in skin human fragments, as well as on the transepidermal water loss in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial. METHODS: AQP3, FLG, INV, GBA, and ELOVL3 levels were measured by immunofluorescence analysis in human skin explants. Clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ACP 1% and ACP 3% on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). RESULTS: Image and statistical analysis showed that ACP 3% significantly increased at 90% the expression of AQP3. Similarly, ACP 3% was able to promote a significant increase of 68% and 51% in FLG and INV, respectively. ACP 3% produced no effects on the GBA and ELOVL3 proteins. Transepidermal water loss was significantly reduced in human volunteers under treatment with ACP 1% and ACP 3%. CONCLUSION: ACP reduced transepidermal water loss in a clinical trial, promoting human skin hydration. These effects were related to modulation of the AQP3, FLG, and INV as evidenced by immunofluorescence assay. This way, A colubrina polysaccharide-rich phytopharmaceutical preparation is an effective additive product to skin hydration.

Validation Cytotoxicity Assay for Lipophilic Substances.

It is challenging to disperse lipophilic substances in a validated cytotoxicity assay, especially for compounds with log Kow greater than or equal to 5 that may show false negative results. The purpose of this study was to explain the challenges in conducting a cytotoxicity validated test of lipophilic substances: Minthostachys setosa, Pimenta pseudocaryophyllus, and Drimysbrasiliensis essential oils. Additionally, we compared the equivalence of Neutral Red (NR) and 3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -5- (3- carboxymethoxyphenyl) -2- (4-sulfophenyl) -2H -tetrazolium, inner salt (MTS) in detecting cell viability. The Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) technique was used to evaluate the dispersion of essential oils and cytotoxicity in accordance to the guidelines of the OECD / GD 129 validated cytotoxicity assay. We compared the equivalence of vital dyes by TOST equivalence test. According to the results, we demonstrated the possibility of using other ways to disperse the lipophilic substances. Based on the HLB theory, we selected polysorbate 20 as the best solubilizing agent of the essential oils studied in D10 culture medium.

Composto nutracêutico aumenta a síntese de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico / Nutraceutical compound increases collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis

Introdução: O uso de produtos nutracêuticos com a finalidade de atenuar os sinais do envelhecimento da pele tem sido proposto na literatura. O estímulo à síntese de elementos de sustentação da derme é um dos mecanismos relacionados a esse efeito. Objetivo: Avaliar a eficácia de um nutracêutico contendo luteína, licopeno, vitamina C e mangânes na síntese de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico. Métodos: Estudo realizado in vitro, através de cultura de fibroblastos humanos tratadas com o produto investigado em diferentes concentrações não citotóxicas. A quantificação de elastina e colágeno foi determinada através de medidas espectrofotométricas enquanto que a de ácido hialurônico foi determinada por método imunoenzimático. Resultados: As culturas celulares tratadas com as diferentes concentrações do produto apresentaram quantidade sintetizada de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico significativamente maior quando comparadas com a cultura não tratada (p<0,05). Conclusões: O uso de nutracêutico contendo licopeno, vitamina C, luteína e manganês demonstrou eficácia in vitro no estímulo à síntese de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico, elementos essenciais na estrutura de sustentação da derme e responsáveis pelas características de firmeza e elasticidade da pele.

Introduction: The use of nutraceutical products in order to attenuate signs of skin aging has been proposed in the literature. The stimulus to the synthesis of substances that support the dermis is one of the mechanisms linked to this effect. Objective: To evaluate the effectiveness of a nutraceutical compound containing lutein, lycopene, vitamin C and manganese for the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Methods: An in vitro study was carried out based on the culture of human fibroblasts treated with the investigated product in different non-cytotoxic concentrations. The quantification of the elastin and collagen was performed with the assistance of spectrophotometric measurements. Hyaluronic acid was measure using a immunoenzymatic method. Results: Cell cultures treated with the different concentrations of the product showed a significantly higher amount of synthesized collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid as compared to the untreated culture (p <0.05). Conclusions: The use of the nutraceutical compound containing lycopene, vitamin C, lutein and manganese has shown in vitro efficacy for stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, components that are crucial for providing the dermis' supporting structure, being responsible for the skin's firmness and elasticity.