Silica Microparticles from Sugarcane By-Products as an Encapsulation System for Retinoids Aimed at Topical Sustained Release.

The encapsulation of retinol within silica microparticles has emerged as a promising opportunity in the realm of cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, driven by the need to reinforce the photoprotection and oxidation stability of retinol. This work examines the process of encapsulating retinol into silica microparticles. The association efficiency, microparticle size, molecular structure, morphology, oxidation, and release profile, as well as biocompatibility and skin sensitization, were evaluated. Results showed that 0.03% of retinol and 9% of emulsifier leads to an association efficiency higher than 99% and a particle size with an average of 5.2 µm. FTIR results indicate that there is an association of retinol with the silica microparticles, and some may be on the surface. Microscopy indicates that when association happens, there is less aggregation of the particles. Oxidation occurs in two different phases, the first related to the retinol on the surface and the second to the associated retinol. In addition, a burst release of up to 3 h (30% free retinol, 17% associated retinol) was observed, as well as a sustained release of 44% of retinol up to 24 h. Encapsulation allowed an increase in the minimal skin cytotoxic concentrations of retinol from 0.04 µg/mL to 1.25 mg/mL without skin sensitization. Overall, retinol is protected when associated with silica microparticles, being safe to use in cosmetics and dermatology.

Circular economyeast: Saccharomyces cerevisiae as a sustainable source of glucans and its safety for skincare application.

Glucans, a polysaccharide naturally present in the yeast cell wall that can be obtained from side streams generated during the fermentation process, have gained increasing attention for their potential as a skin ingredient. Therefore, this study focused on the extraction method to isolate and purify water-insoluble glucans from two different Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains: an engineered strain obtained from spent yeast in an industrial fermentation process and a wild strain produced through lab-scale fermentation. Two water-insoluble extracts with a high glucose content (> 90 %) were achieved and further subjected to a chemical modification using carboxymethylation to improve their water solubility. All the glucans' extracts, water-insoluble and carboxymethylated, were structurally and chemically characterized, showing almost no differences between both yeast-type strains. To ensure their safety for skin application, a broad safety assessment was undertaken, and no cytotoxic effect, immunomodulatory capacity (IL-6 and IL-8 regulation), genotoxicity, skin sensitization, and impact on the skin microbiota were observed. These findings highlight the potential of glucans derived from spent yeast as a sustainable and safe ingredient for cosmetic and skincare formulations, contributing to the sustainability and circular economy.

Biological Potential and Bioaccessibility of Encapsulated Curcumin into Cetyltrimethylammonium Bromide Modified Cellulose Nanocrystals.

Curcumin is a natural phenolic compound with important biological functions. Despite its demonstrated efficacy in vitro, curcumin biological activities in vivo are dependent on its bioaccessibility and bioavailability, which have been highlighted as a crucial challenge. Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide-modified cellulose nanocrystals (CNC-CTAB) have been shown to be effective in curcumin encapsulation, as they have the potential to enhance biological outcomes. This study evaluated the biological effects of curcumin encapsulated within CNC-CTAB structures, namely its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, as well as the release profile under digestion conditions and intestinal permeability. Encapsulated curcumin demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, effectively reducing reactive oxygen species and cytokine production by intestinal cells. The delivery system exhibited antimicrobial properties against Campylobacter jejuni bacteria, further suggesting its potential in mitigating intestinal inflammation. The system showed the ability to protect curcumin from degradation and facilitate its interaction with the intestinal epithelium, highlighting the potential of CNC-CTAB as carrier to enhance curcumin intestinal biological functions.