Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance.

OBJECTIVE: Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform. METHODS: We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers. RESULTS: Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison. CONCLUSION: As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.

OBJECTIF: Jusqu'à présent, l'évaluation standardisée des effets cosmétiques a été réalisée principalement dans des conditions immobiles telles que des photos. Dans la vie réelle, l'expérience des consommateurs des effets de leurs cosmétiques est dynamique, et certains des avantages peuvent être mieux observés en mouvement. Afin de saisir les performances des produits cosmétiques liées au mouvement, nous avons mis au point une comparaison par paires basée sur des vidéos sur une plateforme en ligne. MÉTHODES: Nous avons validé ce nouvel outil en évaluant un fard à paupières à forte réflexion lumineuse et à gradation de couleurs, particulièrement visible en mouvement selon le point de vue de l'observateur. Cette formule a été comparée à deux références commercialisées. Les trois produits ont été appliqués successivement sur la paupière de huit femmes japonaises. Les vidéos ont été prises dans des conditions de lumière, de vitesse et de position du visage normalisées, avec une caméra tournant autour du visage. Les vidéos ont été téléchargées sur une plateforme sécurisée en ligne, et l'effet 3D des paupières, l'accentuation et la gradation des couleurs ont été évalués au moyen d'un test de comparaison par paires par 60 femmes japonaises depuis leur domicile sur leur PC ou leur tablette. Ces résultats ont été mis en parallèle à une comparaison par paires sur photo par les mêmes observateurs. RÉSULTATS: La comparaison par paires sur vidéo a permis de mieux distinguer les produits par rapport à la comparaison sur photo. CONCLUSION: Par rapport à l'acquisition d'images fixes, l'évaluation des cosmétiques à partir de vidéos est plus proche de l'expérience réelle et peut permettre de mieux distinguer les produits, en particulier pour les attributs liés au mouvement.

A 5-hour follow-up of the impact on ageing facial signs of some foundations in Japanese women through automatically analysed selfie pictures.

OBJECTIVE: To explore the possibility of an automatic grading algorithm to detect and quantify, from selfie pictures, the subtle changes of facial signs brought by the application of a foundation. MATERIAL AND METHODS: A total of 270 Japanese differently aged women (30-54y) living in four different Japanese cities took selfies before, immediately and 5 h after having applied their own foundation, with their own routine. RESULTS: The analysis of 810 selfie pictures revealed (3 times × 270 women) that, prior to applications, all women presented a low grade of facial ageing. In most cases, the severities of less marked facial signs were detected and quantified, found affected by routine at different extents in all age-classes, but more intensely in the older age-class (45-54y) despite their more pronounced signs in bare skin status. In contrast, periorbital wrinkles were detected as more severe in all age-classes at both timing, that is, immediately and 5 h post-application as well as Nasolabial folds 5 h post-application. The amplitude of these positive or negative changes, although found of low amplitude, as decimals of the initial grades, was significantly detected. CONCLUSION: This automatic system appears apt at grading subtle changes in facial ageing signs brought by a foundation and could be a valuable help to the consumers of make-up products, in refining their individual procedure to obtain a more personalized desired facial appearance.

OBJECTIF: Explorer la possibilité pour un algorithme de scorage automatique des signes faciaux de détecter et quantifier sur la base de photographies 'selfies', les changements subtils apportés par l'application et la tenue de fonds de teint. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: 270 femmes japonaises âgées de 30 à 54 ans et vivant dans 4 villes différentes ont pris des selfies sur la base de leur smartphone avant, immédiatement et 5 heures après avoir appliqué leurs routines cosmétiques incluant leur propre fond de teint. RÉSULTATS: L'analyse des 810 selfies (3 temps×270 femmes) a révélé que, avant application, la plupart des femmes présentent des grades faibles de vieillissement facial. Dans la plupart des cas, les sévérités des signes les moins marqués, détectés et quantifiés, a été trouvée affectée à différents niveaux dans toutes les classes d'âge, mais plus intensément pour les volontaires les plus âgées (45 à 54 ans) en dépit de leurs valeurs plus élevées sur peau nue. A contrario, les rides péri-orbitales ont été mesurées comme plus sévères dans toutes les classes d'âge à tous les temps, c'est-à-dire immédiatement et 5 heures apprès application du fond de teint tandis que le sillon nasogénien a été observé comme plus sévère 5 heures après application. L'amplitude de ces changements positifs ou négatifs, bien que faible avec des valeurs décimales des grades initiaux, a été significativement détectée. CONCLUSIONS: Le système de scorage automatique apparaît capable d'évaluer des changements subtils dans les signes de vieillissement faciaux apportés par l'application de fonds de teint et se révèle une aide intéressante aux consommateurs de produits de maquillage pour affiner leurs routines individuelles afin d'obtenir des résultats plus personnalisés sur l'apparence désirée.

Repeatability and reproducibility of a hyperspectral imaging system for in vivo color evaluation.

BACKGROUND: Color imaging is a tried and true method for the evaluation of cosmetic and dermatological effects, but it fails to capture all the information in a scene's spectral reflectance. For this reason, there has been in recent years increasing interest in the use of imaging spectrometers for clinical studies and product evaluation. MATERIAL AND METHODS: We developed a novel HyperSpectral Imager (HSI) able to take in vivo full-face format images as a next generation instrument for skin color measurement and beyond. Here, we report part of the results of our first full-scale validation test of the HSI. We replicated a make-up foundation screening test by applying three products to a panel of 9 models and evaluated the product L∗ , a∗ , b∗ , and ∆E effect immediately after application relative to the bare skin condition. We repeated this test twice in order to study the repeatability of the HSI as an evaluation instrument and during each test two different operators duplicated the data acquisition so we can assess the reproducibility of the measurements. RESULTS: We find that the measurements from the HSI provide repeatability and reproducibility as good or better than those of our previous benchmark devices. CONCLUSION: From these results, we conclude that not only is the HSI suitable for use in color evaluation studies, but also that it gives operational advantages over the previous generation of evaluation instruments, as it provides a spectral measurement combined with good spatial resolution. This allows for analysis of color over an area and post hoc selection of study regions and so opens new possibilities for studies of complex in vivo phenomena which neither non-imaging spectrometers nor conventional cameras can pursue. This study also raises points for future work concerning proper inclusion of instrument uncertainty in comparisons of results between instruments and handling of systematic uncertainties from analyses based on a single area.

Hair transparency decoding in Asia: From stylists' perception to in vitro measurement.

BACKGROUND: The concept of hair transparency has been claimed widely in the Japan (and now it is spreading to Asian) hair color market. Despite the general use of this concept, to date, there is no clear and objective description to accurately explain what it is. In this work, we have decoded and gave clarity to the concept of hair transparency via a technical model (validated for both Japan and China markets) composed of measurable parameters of hair property using a single device. METHODOLOGY AND RESULTS: A comprehensive study composed of various tests was used, starting with a qualitative identification of key parameters via in-depth workshop discussions with over 40 Japanese stylists and a panel of 12 consumers. These identified parameters (luminosity, color visibility, and Shine) were then translated into technically measurable parameters of the hair fiber (Diffused light intensity, ratio of RGB channel intensities of Diffused light, and luster) via a single instrument-Hair SAMBA (a dual-polarized imaging system). Afterward, 10 carefully selected anchor shades were used as visual stimuli in an online pairwise comparison (PC) study with 100 Japanese stylists to generate quantitative transparency perception data of the swatches. Technical parameters of these swatches were measured by SAMBA and consolidated with the PC output, for the creation and validation of the mathematical model. After, with another PC study (N = 100) in China, with seven shades from Japan study and 6 additional Chinese market shades, the applicability of the model in China market was validated. CONCLUSION: We have clarified and quantified the concept of hair transparency through a consumer centric approach and with objective data. Our findings will enable the development of optimum transparent shades which better suits consumer needs. Lastly, we would like to highlight the beauty of digitalization in the study: The digital evaluation pathways chosen allowed us to collect quantitative consumer data from two countries for the creation of a robust model under the impact of COVID-19 and would definitely be the way to go for our future consumer evaluation studies.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on the perceived radiance/glow in differently aged women of six countries.

OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the impact of Facial radiance or Glow on the perception of age (PA) and to assess which facial signs most influence PA. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The faces of 1058 differently aged women (18-80 years) of six different ethnicities/countries (China, Japan, Korea, India, South Africa, and Brazil) were photographed under standard conditions. These allowed to focus on 20 different facial signs that were further graded by experts, using referential Atlases dedicated to facial aging. In each of the six countries, 100 local women were recruited as naïve panels to express their perceptions on Glow and Age on each full-face photograph (blind coded) of the local studied woman. RESULTS: A decreased Glow/Radiance appears clearly associated with an increased perceived age in all studied subjects, especially among Chinese, Japanese, and South African women. With regard facial signs, Skin texture (Wrinkles of all kinds), Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation signs prevail in almost all women at the exception of South African women where Pigmentation signs and Cheek skin pores largely predominate in the perception of both Glow and PA. Pigmentation signs are of a very high weight among Chinese and Japanese women. CONCLUSION: Despite some collective agreements, the present study shows some specificities within the women of the six ethnicities/countries. PA, a core index of antiaging strategies, goes along with facial Glow in almost all studied women. The duller the facial skin, the older it is perceived.

A preliminary study to understand the effects of mask on tinted face cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: The recent COVID-19 pandemic has generalized the use of face mask in public area, and it is now common to wear it for long hours. But face mask interfere with cosmetics, and key concerns for tinted products are staining of the mask and degradation on face. Consumers have modified beauty routine by a decrease of makeup, but are now expecting new products adapted to face mask. Little is known about the mechanisms that affect most the makeup under the face mask, so that further studies are needed to develop adequate evaluation methods and products. In this study, the color transfer on mask and makeup degradation on face are assessed through a mixed approach of consumer and instrumental evaluation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two tinted face products (A and B) were applied by half face on 11 Japanese women, who conducted real-life activities with a face mask during 4 hours. Panelists evaluated the stain of their face mask by visual assessment, while the makeup degradation on face was evaluated by color measurement by instrumental method. RESULTS: No difference was observed between the two products for lasting on face, but consumer evaluation showed a better resistance of product A for color transfer on mask. CONCLUSION: The mix of instrumental and consumer evaluation is a promising way to evaluate the makeup degradation on face and color transfer on mask, which are two key factors to develop mask resistant makeup products.

Japanese experiment of a complete and objective automatic grading system of facial signs from selfie pictures: Validation with dermatologists and characterization of changes due to age and sun exposures.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the capacity of the automatic detection system to accurately grade, from smartphones' selfie pictures, the severity of ten facial signs in Japanese women and their changes due to age and sun exposures. METHODS: A three-step approach was conducted, based on self-taken selfie images. At first, to check on 310 Japanese women (18-69 years) enrolled in the northerner Hokkaido area (latitude 43.2°N), how, on ten facial signs, the A.I-based automatic grading system may correlate with dermatological assessments, taken as reference. Second, to assess and compare age changes in 310 Japanese and 112 Korean women. Third, as these Japanese panelists were recruited according to their usual behavior toward sun exposure, that is, non-sun-phobic (NSP, N = 114) and sun-phobic (SP, N = 196), and through their regular and early use of a photo-protective product, to characterize the facial photo-damages. RESULTS: (a) On the ten facial signs, detected automatically, nine were found significantly (P < .0001) highly correlated with the evaluations made by three Japanese dermatologists (Wrinkles: r = .75; Sagging: r = .80; Pigmentation: r = .75). (b) The automatic scores showed significant changes with age, by decade, of Wrinkles/Texture, Pigmentation, and Ptosis/Sagging (P < .05). (c) After 45 years, a significantly increased severity of Wrinkles/Texture and Pigmentation was observed in NSP vs. SP women (P < .05). A trend of an increased Ptosis/Sagging (P = .09) was observed. CONCLUSION: This work illustrates, for the first time through investigations conducted at home, some impacts of aging and sun exposures on facial signs of Japanese women. Results significantly confirm the importance of sun avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures. In epidemiological studies, the AI-based system offers a fast, affordable, and confidential approach in detection and quantification of facial signs and their dependence with ages, environments and lifestyles.