Expression of differential genes involved in the maintenance of water balance in human skin by Piptadenia colubrina extract.

BACKGROUND: Hydration and integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is an important determinant of skin appearance, metabolism, mechanical properties, and barrier function. The presence of aquaglyceroporins and envelope proteins are crucial to provide greater corneocyte cohesion to keep water and other moisturizers in the skin. AIMS: In this study, we evaluated the ability of Piptadenia colubrina, a plant native of South American rain forests, in the expression of genes involved in skin capacitance and SC integrity. METHODS: The expression of genes for aquaporin-3 (AQP3), loricrin, involucrin (INV), and filaggrin (FLG) was measured by real-time PCR, using an in vitro model of human keratinocytes incubated with concentrations of 2.5, 5, 10, and 20 mg/mL of a hydroglycolic extract of P. colubrina (HEPC). The amount of AQP3 protein was also tested by immunohistochemistry in human skin explants. Clinical trials were conducted to evaluate the effects of a gel-cream containing HEPC on the glycerol index and skin capacitance. RESULTS: Hydroglycolic extract of P. colubrina increased both the expression and immunoreactivity of AQP3 in cultured keratinocytes and human skin explants. The gene induction to envelope proteins FLG and INV was also observed after cell incubation with HEPC. Skin capacitance was significantly improved in human volunteers under treatment with HEPC-containing cream. CONCLUSIONS: The extract of P. colubrina promotes cellular hydration and induces gene expression of envelope proteins providing greater corneocyte cohesion to keep water and other moisturizers in the skin and an appropriate epidermal adhesion. The in vitro findings were clinically confirmed and encourage the clinical use of this compound in skin care products.

Effects of a Brazilian herbal compound as a cosmetic eyecare for periorbital hyperchromia ("dark circles").

BACKGROUND: Evidence suggests that periorbital hyperchromia (dark circles) occurs mainly as a consequence of postinflammatory hemodynamic congestion producing a typical bruising aspect on the lower eyelids. AIMS: To evaluate the clinical effects of Pfaffia paniculata/Ptychopetalum olacoides B./Lilium candidum L.-associated compound (PPLAC) on periorbital hyperchromia and to study in vitro its underlying anti-inflammatory and antioxidant mechanisms. METHODS: Twenty-one volunteers presenting with periorbital hyperchromia received a serum sample containing 5.0% PPLAC, which was applied topically in the periorbital area twice a day for 28 days. Skin color was measured using variations in the individual typological angle (DeltaITA(0)) and skin luminance (DeltaL*) calculated in the area around the eyes and in the adjacent area. Colorimetric readings were taken at the onset and end of the 28-day treatment. Volunteers were also asked to fill out a questionnaire concerning the improvement in "dark circles." The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of PPLAC were measured by quantification of prostaglandin E(2), leukotriene B(4), histamine, and superoxide dismutase levels using an in vitro model of human skin culture. RESULTS: Topical application of PPLAC led to a significant improvement in skin luminance and tone in the periorbital area, which was demonstrated by increased values of ITA(0) and L* in about 90% of volunteers. In addition, subjects reported reduced intensity and improved appearance of "dark circles." A dose-dependent decreased production of inflammatory mediators, concomitant to increased antioxidant enzyme levels, was observed in our in vitro studies, under basal and lipopolysaccharide-stimulated conditions. CONCLUSIONS: Although the precise mechanisms related to PPLAC remain to be clarified, our results indicate that the reduction in the inflammatory process as well as the antioxidant protection against deleterious elements may be considered as an integral approach to preserve the integrity of vascular endothelium, preventing the hemodynamic congestion that culminates in the formation of "dark circles" around the eyes.

Relievene® SK: neuroimunomodulação para o tratamento dermocosmético da pele sensível / Relievene® SK: neuroimunomodulation for dermocosmetic treatment of sensitive skin

Pele sensível (PS) é definida como uma condição de tolerância reduzida ao uso freqüente ou prolongado de cosméticos e produtos de higiene pessoal, que apresenta desde sinais clínicos visíveis, como eritema, edema e descamação, até sinais neurossensoriais subjetivos de desconforto, como pinicamento, queimação, prurido, ressecamento e dor. A fisiopatologia da PS consiste em reação inflamatória decorrente de uma disfunção da barreira cutânea associada ao desequilíbrio da resposta neuroimunoendocrinológica da pele. Neste trabalho demonstramos os efeitos do produto Relievene® SK sobre a proteção do metabolismo celular, considerando as atividades adaptógena e neuroendócrina deste composto, bem como a melhora da função da barreira cutânea e da hiper-reatividade da pele em indivíduos com PS.

Neuroimmunomodulatory compound for sensitive skin care: in vitro and clinical assessment.

BACKGROUND: The pathophysiology of sensitive skin consists of an inflammatory reaction resulting from the abnormal penetration in the skin of potentially irritating substances, which occurs due to skin barrier dysfunction and changes in the production of local neuromediators. AIMS: The therapeutic potential of L-carnosine and Rhodiola rosea, as antioxidant and neuromodulatory, respectively, leads us to investigate the effects of the R. rosea extract/L-carnosine-associated compound (RCAC) on sensitive skin alterations. METHODS: A double-blind comparative study was conducted on 124 volunteers with sensitive skin, who were selected by their reactivity to stinging test. Two randomized groups of 62 each received either a formulation containing 1% of RCAC or placebo, which was applied twice a day for 28 consecutive days. One perceptibility questionnaire was applied at the onset and at the end of the treatment to evaluate the subjective response to test product. Additionally, in vitro studies were performed to investigate RCAC neuroimmunomodulatory mechanisms. RESULTS: RCAC treatment produced in vivo protective effects in skin barrier function and a positive subjective response of sensitive skin volunteers. In vitro treatment promoted the release of proopiomelanocortin peptides and restored to normal the increased levels of neuropeptides and cytokines produced by keratinocytes exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Clinical effectiveness was measured by reduction of transepidermal water loss, positive perceptions of improvements in skin dryness and skin comfort sensation, and reduction of discomfort sensation after stinging test. CONCLUSIONS: The protective effect of RCAC in skin barrier function and the positive response produced in human subjects with sensitive skin could be partially explained by our in vitro results showing a significant increase in opioid peptides release, an inhibitory effect on neuropeptides production, and modulation of cytokines production by keratinocytes under ultraviolet stress.