Assessment of Brassica oleraceae L. (Brassicaceae) extract loaded ethosomal gel as a versatile vesicular carrier system for dermocosmetic application: A noninvasive split-faced study.

BACKGROUND: Plant extracts with rich ascorbic acid contents have greater antioxidant capability; extensively employed in skin beautifying products and protect skin from detrimental photodamaging environmental effects. Brassica oleraceae is having a substantial prospective toward cosmeceuticals owed by its profound activity against oxidation. AIM: To develop an effective topical ethosomal gel loaded with Brassica oleraceae leaves extract with significant antioxidant activity. METHODOLOGY: Valuation of antioxidant capability of plant leaves extract by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and quantification of ascorbic acid was done through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Ethosomes were prepared by cold method. Optimized suspension containing extract was incorporated in 2% Carbopol gel (test) along with extract solution (control). Noninvasive in vivo studies were performed for final product to assess its effects on skin by measuring melanin and erythema, sebum level, elasticity, moistness level, facial pores count and their area, skin wrinkling, and smoothness. RESULTS: Brassica oleraceae (red cabbage) leaves extract exhibited significant antioxidant potential (85.64 ± 1.28%) with 14.22 µg/g of ascorbic acid; expressed prominent cosmetic effects in terms of skin melanin, erythema, sebum, elasticity, hydration, facial pores, wrinkles, and smoothness when incorporated in ethosomes. ANOVA test also exhibited positive significant (p ≤ 0.05) effects on skin. CONCLUSION: Brassica oleraceae extract is a strong antioxidant with remarkable dermocosmetic benefits for skin.

Development of Niacinamide/Ferulic Acid-Loaded Multiple Emulsion and Its In Vitro/In Vivo Investigation as a Cosmeceutical Product.

Objective: Multiple emulsions have the ability to incorporate both lipophilic and hydrophilic actives in the same preparation and facilitate permeation of active ingredients through skin. The current study was aimed at formulating niacinamide/ferulic acid-loaded stable multiple emulsion (MNF) and its in vitro/in vivo characterization as a cosmeceutical product. Methods: Both the compounds were evaluated for their radical scavenging potential by the DPPH method and FTIR analysis. Then, placebo and active formulations were prepared using a double emulsification method and were investigated for stability testing (changes in color, odor, and liquefaction on centrifugation, pH, and globule size) for a period of three months. Afterwards, MNF was investigated for in vitro sun protection factor, rheological studies, entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, zeta size, and ex vivo permeation. Moreover, after ensuring the hypoallergenicity and safety, it was also checked for its cosmeceutical effects on human skin using noninvasive biophysical probes in comparison with placebo. Results: Results demonstrated that MNF showed a non-Newtonian behavior rheologically and both MNF and placebo were stable at different storage conditions. Entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, and zeta size were 93.3%, -5.88 mV, and 0.173 µm, respectively. Moreover, melanin, sebum, and skin erythema were significantly reduced while skin elasticity and hydration were improved. Conclusion: It is evident that niacinamide and ferulic acid can be successfully incorporated in a stable multiple emulsion which has potent cosmeceutical effects on human skin.

Development and cosmeceutical evaluation of topical emulgel containing Albizia lebbeck bark extract.

BACKGROUND: Antioxidants are widely used in cosmetic products as they have beneficial effects on skin and prevent skin from harmful effects of environment. Albizia lebbeck has a significant potential to be used in cosmeceuticals due to its antioxidant activity. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to formulate a stable and effective o/w emulsion-based emulgel containing Albizia lebbeck bark extract, which have considerable antioxidant activity. METHODOLOGY: Antioxidant activity of Albizia lebbeck bark extract was determined by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method. Emulgel containing 3% extract was developed by mixing o/w emulsion in Carbopol gel along with a placebo emulgel without extract (base). In vitro evaluation of these emulgels, that is, liquefaction, color, phase separation, centrifugation, and pH change were carried out for a period of 8 weeks at different storage conditions, that is, 8ºC, 25ºC, 40ºC, and 40ºC & 75% relative humidity (RH). In vivo evaluation of emulgels was carried out on 13 healthy female volunteers by measuring various parameters of skin, that is, melanin level, erythema level, moisture content, sebum content, and elasticity at regular time intervals after applying emulgel (both base and test formulation) for 8 weeks. RESULTS: Antioxidant activity of Albizia lebbeck bark extract was 84.7%. Both emulgels (base and test formulation) were stable at all storage conditions. Statistical analysis showed that test formulation produced significant effects (p < 0.05) on melanin, erythema level, moisture content, sebum level, and elasticity of skin. CONCLUSION: It can be concluded that a stable topical emulgel containing 3% Albizia lebbeck bark extract has significant antioxidant effects on human skin.