Effects of a Brazilian herbal compound as a cosmetic eyecare for periorbital hyperchromia ("dark circles").

BACKGROUND: Evidence suggests that periorbital hyperchromia (dark circles) occurs mainly as a consequence of postinflammatory hemodynamic congestion producing a typical bruising aspect on the lower eyelids. AIMS: To evaluate the clinical effects of Pfaffia paniculata/Ptychopetalum olacoides B./Lilium candidum L.-associated compound (PPLAC) on periorbital hyperchromia and to study in vitro its underlying anti-inflammatory and antioxidant mechanisms. METHODS: Twenty-one volunteers presenting with periorbital hyperchromia received a serum sample containing 5.0% PPLAC, which was applied topically in the periorbital area twice a day for 28 days. Skin color was measured using variations in the individual typological angle (DeltaITA(0)) and skin luminance (DeltaL*) calculated in the area around the eyes and in the adjacent area. Colorimetric readings were taken at the onset and end of the 28-day treatment. Volunteers were also asked to fill out a questionnaire concerning the improvement in "dark circles." The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of PPLAC were measured by quantification of prostaglandin E(2), leukotriene B(4), histamine, and superoxide dismutase levels using an in vitro model of human skin culture. RESULTS: Topical application of PPLAC led to a significant improvement in skin luminance and tone in the periorbital area, which was demonstrated by increased values of ITA(0) and L* in about 90% of volunteers. In addition, subjects reported reduced intensity and improved appearance of "dark circles." A dose-dependent decreased production of inflammatory mediators, concomitant to increased antioxidant enzyme levels, was observed in our in vitro studies, under basal and lipopolysaccharide-stimulated conditions. CONCLUSIONS: Although the precise mechanisms related to PPLAC remain to be clarified, our results indicate that the reduction in the inflammatory process as well as the antioxidant protection against deleterious elements may be considered as an integral approach to preserve the integrity of vascular endothelium, preventing the hemodynamic congestion that culminates in the formation of "dark circles" around the eyes.

Effect of green Coffea arabica L. seed oil on extracellular matrix components and water-channel expression in in vitro and ex vivo human skin models.

BACKGROUND: Green Coffea arabica L. seed oil is being widely used in cosmetic formulations, although its effects on human skin cells are not clear and most observations are unpublished. AIMS: In this study, we evaluated the in vitro effects of green coffee (C. arabica L.) oil (GCO) on the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAG) and in the release of transforming growth factor-beta1 (TGF-beta1) and granulocyte-macrophage colony-stimulating factor (GM-CSF) by human skin fibroblasts. We also investigated the ability of GCO to increase aquaglycerolporins-3 (AQP-3) mRNA expression in cultured keratinocytes and human skin explants. METHODS: Human fibroblasts were incubated for 48 h with several GCO concentrations (3.12, 6.25, 12.5, 25.0 and 50.0 mg/mL). The levels of growth factors and extracellular matrix compounds in the culture supernatant were measured using commercial kits. To evaluate AQP-3 relative expression, using real-time reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction, keratinocytes were incubated for 3-6 h with the GCO optimal concentration of 25.0 mg/mL. Histological sections of human skin were also incubated with GCO (25.0 mg/mL) and immunostained by antiserum against AQP-3. RESULTS: Our results demonstrated that incubation with GCO produces a dose-dependent stimulation in the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and GAG, in addition to increasing the release of the growth factors TGF-beta1 and GM-CSF. GCO also induced the expression of AQP-3 mRNA, which reached levels up to 6.5-fold higher than those of the control cultures. CONCLUSION: The findings presented herein suggest that GCO might improve physiological balance in the skin, thus allowing the formation of new connective tissue, and preventing epidermis dryness by increasing AQP-3 levels. Taking into account the limitations of in vitro studies, it is encouraging in this context to consider CGO as an adjuvant to be used in dermocosmetic formulations. Clinical studies are in progress in our laboratory aiming to further investigate the protective effects of CGO in the skin.