Less Talk More Chalk: A Retrospective Review of Rock Climbing-Related Trauma.

Introduction Climbing is a strength and strategy-driven sport that has greatly increased in popularity over the last decade, partially due to its debut in the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics. With an increasing number of new climbers and the emergence of recreational indoor climbing facilities, fall injury risk remains a legitimate concern within the climbing community. This study evaluates the pattern of injury in trauma patients presenting to the Desert Regional Medical Center, a level 1 trauma center in Palm Springs, CA, following falls from height while rock climbing. Methods Our study retrospectively investigated a de-identified dataset on trauma patients at the Desert Regional Medical Center, a level 1 trauma center located in Palm Springs, CA, from 2016 to 2021. This analysis focused on 75 patients who presented following falls from height while rock climbing. We reviewed several parameters, including patient demographics, Injury Severity Score (ISS), hospital length of stay (LOS), injury type, and patient outcomes. Descriptive statistics including median values, standard deviations (SD), and P-values were assessed via Microsoft Excel. Several paired, one-tailed t-tests and a Pearson's correlation test were also conducted to further evaluate the association between variables within the dataset. Results In this retrospective analysis of patients presenting to the emergency department post-fall from heights while rock climbing, the patient profile was predominantly younger or middle-aged climbers under 60 years old (65, 86.7%). The mean patient age was 37 years old. The majority of patients were non-Hispanic (69, 92%), noting a male predominance (57, 76%). Most patients (60, 80%) required partial trauma code status. Hospitalization was required for most individuals (67, 89.3%), with several requiring intensive care unit (ICU) admission (29, 38.7%). The average hospital LOS was 6.7 amongst all admissions. Patients requiring LOS greater than 10 days had a higher average ISS (12.9) when compared to climbers with shorter lengths of admission (ISS of 10.4). There was no significant difference in ISS between younger patients (ISS of 9.3) and those 60 and older (ISS of 10.6). The most common critical injury was lower extremity fracture (36, 48%), noting no significant increase in injury incidence over the last five years. Conclusion Rock climbers who experience falls from cliffs are most at risk for a lower extremity fracture. Demographically, a majority of injured climbers in this study were young males, who may exhibit risk-taking behavior. To better prevent critical injuries within the climbing sector, we encourage an increase in safety measures (crash mats, harnessing) and the implementation of a new climber education program.

Mid- to long-term functional outcome and return to sport after elbow dislocation in bouldering: a clinical retrospective cohort study.

INTRODUCTION: Traumatic elbow dislocations are among the most common injuries in sport climbing. They occur most frequently in bouldering (a climbing discipline with strong upward trend often performed indoors) due to the typical low-height backward fall into crashpads. There is still no data about the functional outcome and return to sport of this typical bouldering injury. MATERIALS AND METHODS: All Patients with elbow dislocations due to a bouldering associated fall between 2011 and 2020 were identified retrospectively in our level I trauma centre. Trauma mechanisms, injury types and therapies were obtained. Follow-up was performed with an online questionnaire including sports-related effects, return to sport and the Elbow Self-Assessment Score (ESAS). RESULTS: 30 patients with elbow dislocations after bouldering accidents were identified. In 22 (73.3%) patients the injury was a simple dislocation. The questionnaire was completed by 20 patients. The leading mechanism was a low-height fall into crashpads. Surgical procedures were performed in every second patient. 18 patients (90%) reported return to bouldering after 4.7 ± 2.1 months. 12 patients (66.7%) regained their pre-injury level. Mid-/Long-term follow-up (mean 105 ± 37.5 months) showed excellent results in ESAS score (97.2 ± 3.9 points). Persistent limited range of motion or instability was reported by only 3 patients (15%). CONCLUSION: Most athletes are able to return to bouldering but only two thirds regain their pre-injury performance level in this demanding upper-extremity sport. The unique low-height trauma mechanism may create a false sense of security. Specific awareness and safety features should be placed for climbing athletes to reduce elbow injuries.

Assessment of Microvascular Hemodynamic Adaptations in Finger Flexors of Climbers.

Climbing performance is greatly dependent on the endurance of the finger flexors which, in turn, depends on the ability to deliver and use oxygen within the muscle. Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) and diffuse correlation spectroscopy (DCS) have provided new possibilities to explore these phenomena in the microvascular environment. The aim of the present study was to explore climbing-related microvascular adaptations through the comparison of the oxygen concentration and hemodynamics of the forearm between climbers and non-climber active individuals during a vascular occlusion test (VOT). Seventeen climbers and fifteen non-climbers joined the study. Through NIRS and DCS, the oxyhemoglobin (O2Hb) and deoxyhemoglobin (HHb) concentrations, tissue saturation index (TSI), and blood flow index (BFI) were obtained from the flexor digitorum profundus during the VOT. During the reactive hyperemia, climbers presented greater blood flow slopes (p = 0.043, d = 0.573), as well as greater O2Hb maximum values (p = 0.001, d = 1.263) and HHb minimum values (p = 0.009, d = 0.998), than non-climbers. The superior hemodynamics presented by climbers could indicate potential training-induced structural and functional adaptations that could enhance oxygen transportation to the muscle, and thus enhance muscle endurance and climbing performance.

Climbing anxiety scale (CAS-20): Preliminary development and validation.

Anxiety has been the primary focus of emotion research in sport psychology. Most of the existing anxiety measures focus on the competition related anxiety. Little is known about the way in which anxiety affects athletic outcomes in extreme sports. We contribute to the literature on anxiety in extreme sports by: (1) developing and providing a preliminary validation for a novel, theoretically anchored sport climbing inventory, Climbing Anxiety Scale (CAS-20), among an international sample of rock-climbers (N = 153); and (2) providing preliminary evidence on its factorial and criterion-related validity. Our investigation includes two phases. The first phase (6 clinical and sport psychology experts) included the development and expert review of a climbing specific anxiety scale. The second phase (N = 153) offers preliminary evidence pertaining to the measure's reliability, factorial, convergent and criterion related validity. Factorial validity was investigated by deploying a series of confirmatory factorial analyses. Convergent and discriminatory validity were examined by comparing the scale's associations with a general anxiety measure, a sport anxiety measure, as well as climbing self-efficacy. Criterion-related validity was estimated by examining its relationship with rock-climbing performance. We contribute to the general domain of sport and athletic research by developing a sport-specific anxiety measure, investigating whether and how anxiety comes into play in rock-climbing, a high-risk sport. This scale can be used for assessing anxiety in climbing and monitoring the impact of an interventions designed to reduce these symptoms.

Delaying Suspension Syndrome Onset in Aerially Suspended Victims Through Leg Raising.

INTRODUCTION: Suspension syndrome (SS) develops when venous blood pools in extremities of passively suspended individuals, resulting in presyncopal symptoms and potential unconsciousness or death independent of additional injuries. We investigated use of leg raising to delay onset of SS, as it can decrease venous pooling and increase cardiac return and systemic perfusion. METHODS: Participants were suspended in rock climbing harnesses at an indoor climbing wall in a legs-dangling control position or a legs-raised interventional position to compare physiological outcomes between groups. Participants were suspended for a maximum of 45 min. Onset of 2 or more symptoms of SS, such as vertigo, lightheadedness, or nausea, halted suspension immediately. We recorded each participant's heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, pain rating, and presyncope scores presuspension, midsuspension, and postsuspension, as well as total time suspended. RESULTS: There were 24 participants. There was a significant difference in total time suspended between groups (43.05±6.7 min vs 33.35±9.02 min, p=0.007). There was a significant difference in heart rate between groups overall (p=0.012), and between groups, specifically at the midsuspension time interval (80±11 bpm vs 100±17 bpm, p=0.003). Pain rating was significantly different between groups (p=0.05). Differences in blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, and presyncope scores were not significant. CONCLUSION: Leg raising lengthened the time individuals tolerated passive suspension and delayed symptom onset.

Recovery markers in elite climbers after the national boulder climbing championship.

This study aimed to investigate recovery markers among elite climbers following the National Boulder Championship. We assessed maximum isometric hand grip strength (HS), forearm swelling (circumference), delayed soreness in forearm muscles, tiredness, and exercise readiness at several time points: pre-competition, immediately post-competition (within 4 min after their last effort), and 12, 24, 48, and 60 h post-competition. Maximum isometric hand grip strength decreased by 6.38 ± 1.32% (p = 0.006) post-12 h, returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm circumference (FC) increased 1.78 ± 1.77% (p < 0.001) post-competition, returning to pre-competition values post-12 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm pain (FP) increased post-competition (p = 0.002) and post-12 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Tiredness increased post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), and post-24 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-48 h (all p > 0.05). Climbing readiness was reduced post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), post-24 h (p < 0.001), and post-48 h (p = 0.005), only returning to pre-competition values post-60 h (p = 0.189). Visual analysis of individual data pointed out a relatively small variability in the HS and FC markers, while FP, tiredness, and readiness exhibited larger individual variations. These findings indicate that different recovery patterns exist for the analyzed markers, suggesting that athletes may require up to 60 h after a competition to fully recover and regain their ability to face new competitive challenges.

Analyzing Injury Patterns in Climbing: A Comprehensive Study of Risk Factors.

Climbing, a sport with increasing popularity, poses diverse risks and injury patterns across its various disciplines. This study evaluates the incidence and nature of climbing-related injuries, focusing on how different disciplines and climbers' personal characteristics affect these injuries. Data on injury incidence, severity, and consequences, as well as climbers' personal attributes, were collected through a questionnaire and analyzed using generalized linear models and generalized linear mixed models, Cochran-Armitage tests, and multivariate analysis. Our findings indicate a direct correlation between time spent on bouldering and lead climbing and increased injury frequency, while injury incidence decreases with time in traditional climbing. Interestingly, personal characteristics showed no significant impact on injury incidence or severity. However, distinct patterns emerged in individual disciplines regarding the recent injuries in which age and weight of climbers play a role. While the phase of occurrence and duration of consequences show no significant variation across disciplines, the intensity of the required treatment and causes of injury differ. This research provides insights into climbing injuries' complex nature, highlighting the need for tailored preventive strategies across climbing disciplines. It underscores the necessity for further investigation into the factors contributing to climbing injuries, advocating for more targeted injury prevention and safety measures in this evolving sport.

Validity and Reliability of Finger-Strength Testing in 6 Common Grip Techniques for the Assessment of Bouldering Ability in Men.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the criterion validity and test-retest reliability of isometric finger-strength testing in 6 differentiated grip techniques for the assessment of bouldering ability among male climbers. METHODS: We recruited participants at climbing gyms in Sweden and through online advertisements. We included climbers over 15 years of age with a minimum bouldering performance level of 17 International Rock Climbing and Research Association (IRCRA) for men and 15 IRCRA for women. We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a force plate. We analyzed criterion validity, test-retest reliability, and capacity to determine bouldering performance ability using a stepwise multivariable regression model. RESULTS: Women were excluded from the analysis due to insufficient sample size (n = 16). Thirty-two male participants were included in the primary analysis. The median (interquartile range) age in the advanced and elite group was 27 (25; 35) and 23 (22; 32) years, respectively. The half crimp for the participants' weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. In the stepwise regression, maximal strength in the half crimp and the front 3 drag collectively explained 66% of the variance for performance. CONCLUSION: Strength in the half crimp proved the most important performance indicator. The results of this study provide a reliable and valid framework for maximal isometric peak finger-strength testing in advanced and elite male boulderers.

Mental health problems, sleep quality and overuse injuries in advanced Swedish rock-climbers - the CLIMB study.

OBJECTIVES: To examine the prevalence of mental health problems (depression, anxiety, and stress), sleep quality, and disability due to overuse injuries in advanced and elite rock-climbers. The rock-climbers were compared to a group of non-climbing controls. METHODS: A self-selected sample of advanced and elite Swedish rock-climbing athletes was recruited through the Swedish Rock-climbing Federation, local rock-climbing gyms and through social media. A control group, matched in size was recruited. Participants in the control group answered an online survey of validated questionnaires, examining symptoms of stress, anxiety, depression, sleep quality. The climbing participants answered the same survey as the non-climbing controls but with additional questions regarding musculoskeletal problems and disabilities related to these. Outcome measures used were the Depression Anxiety Stress Scale, Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index and The Oslo Sports Trauma Research Center Overuse Injury Questionnaire. RESULTS: A total of 183 participants were included in the rock-climbing group, and 180 participants in the control group. In the rock-climbing group the mean age (SD) was 28.2 (8.3) years among women and 30.5 (9.6) years in men. The mean BMI of women was 21.2 (2.2) and 22.8 (2.1) in men. A total of 30.6% of the rock-climbing group (26.7% of men, 35.9% of women) reported at least moderate levels of symptoms of depression and 23.1% (17.2% men, 30.8% women) at least moderate levels of symptoms of anxiety. A total of 48.4% of rock-climbers (39.1% men, and 61.6% women) reported at least moderate levels of symptoms of stress. Among the rock-climbers, 45.0% reported having poor sleep quality. There were no statistical significant differences (p = 0.052-0.96) in mental health problems or sleeping problems between the rock-climbers and the controls. Among rock-climbers, reports of one-week prevalence of injury related problems was: Finger and hand (49.5%), Shoulder (35.2%), Knee (29.1%), Lumbar back (26.4%), Arm (25.3%), Thoracic back and neck (17.0%), and Foot and lower leg (12.1%). CONCLUSION: The overall results indicate high levels of symptoms of mental health problems and poor sleep quality in both rock-climbers and controls. Although no significant differences between the climbing group and the control group was displayed, symptoms that warrant clinical attention is high. Overuse injuries were commonly reported among the rock-climbers in all examined injury locations. Previous studies reporting mental health problems to be more prevalent among athletes were contradicted in this study. The results display the need for a broader perspective regarding climbers general health and the need to provide structured care and adequate support in order to come to terms with these concerns.

Climbing while healing: An orthotic intervention for rock climbers with a low- grade A2 pulley injury, a case series.

BACKGROUND: Pulley injuries are common among rock climbers, which is a growing population. Hand therapists need a therapeutic intervention which promotes healing and enables participation. PURPOSE: The purpose of this case series is to detail the functional outcomes of a 12-week protocol using a pulley ring orthosis (PRO) among rock climbers with a grade I, II, or III pulley injury. STUDY DESIGN: A prospective repeated measures case series followed the healing timeline of four participants who rock climbed while wearing the invervention device, the PRO, with weekly measurements to monitor healing METHODS: Participants with a grade I, II, or III A2 pulley injury were custom fitted for a PRO, which they wore while rock climbing a minimum of 3 times per week for 12 weeks. Weekly check-ins were scheduled for subjective and objective measurements. RESULTS: All participants demonstrated indicators of full healing, which, in this study, is defined as progressive improvement in strength, function, and pain, without interruption of their typical rock climbing schedules. CONCLUSIONS: Providers should consider the use of a PRO as a protective orthosis for rock climbing patients with a low-grade A2 pulley injury who want to continue rock climbing while they are healing.

Wrist Injuries in Climbers.

BACKGROUND: Acute and chronic injuries to the wrist are among the most common sport-related complaints of climbing athletes but have not been extensively evaluated in this population. Therefore, it is important to categorize climbing injuries to the wrist, analyze risk factors, and assess treatment outcomes. PURPOSE: To evaluate the distribution, outcomes, and influencing factors of wrist injuries in climbers. STUDY DESIGN: Case series; Level of evidence, 4. METHODS: Climbing athletes with wrist injuries who presented to our specialized sports medical center over the course of 4 years (2017-2020) were selected. All had prospectively completed questionnaires including their climbing-specific background (years of training, climbing level, training methods, etc). Injuries were analyzed (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation [UIAA] grade and diagnosis), and treatment methods and outcomes were retrospectively assessed with a minimum follow-up of 2 years. Parameters included the climbing score, visual analog scale for pain score, Patient-Rated Wrist Evaluation (PRWE) score, and shortened version of the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (QuickDASH) score including the sport component (DASH-Sport) score before and after treatment as well as time to return to climbing. RESULTS: A total of 69 patients (25 female, 44 male) with 78 wrist injuries were identified and analyzed. Of these, 7 injuries were bilateral, occurring at the same time, and 2 injuries were independent reinjuries to either the same or the contralateral side. In addition, 24 injuries (30.8%) were acute, while 54 (69.2%) were chronic. Overall, 2 injuries had a UIAA grade of 3; all others had a UIAA grade of 2. The most frequent injuries were synovitis of the ulnocarpal recess, ulnar impaction, bone marrow edema of the lunate, wrist sprains (joint capsular pain with stress, with no pathological finding on magnetic resonance imaging), and wrist ganglion cysts. Nonoperative treatment was performed for 61 of the injuries, while 17 were treated surgically. In 51 cases (65.4%), injuries healed without consequences; in 27 cases (34.6%), discomfort remained. The visual analog scale pain score decreased from 4.8 ± 1.9 before treatment to 0.7 ± 1.0 after treatment (P < .001), the PRWE score decreased from 53.6 ± 24.9 to 10.3 ± 13.1 (P < .001), the QuickDASH score improved from 53.0 ± 16.6 to 20.0 ± 20.2 (P < .001), and the DASH-Sport score improved from 82.0 ± 16.1 to 38.1 ± 23.5 (P < .001). The climbing score improved from 2.5 ± 1.1 to 4.3 ± 1.0 points (P < .001). The patient-reported number of days with pain was negatively correlated with changes in the PRWE score (r = -0.351; P < .001), QuickDASH score (r = -0.316; P = .007), and climbing score (r = -0.264; P = .025) as well as the number of days without climbing (r = -0.266; P = .025). The number of days without climbing was positively correlated with changes in the PRWE score (r = 0.369; P < .001). CONCLUSION: Wrist injuries in climbers constituted a diverse set of diagnoses. Ulnar-sided injuries were most common, and many patients had >1 diagnosis. Outcomes for all treatment methods (surgery and nonoperative care) were favorable, but approximately one-third of climbers had persistent wrist discomfort after treatment, underscoring the need for accurate diagnoses and acute and expert care.

Flexor Tendon Pulley Injuries: A Systematic Review of the Literature and Current Treatment Options.

Closed injuries of the finger flexor pulley system are rare among the general population, and most of them occur during rock climbing. During the last few decades, scientific interest on this topic has increased. We conducted a systematic review of the literature according to the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines. The research was limited from January 2000 to March 2022. PubMed and Scopus databases were investigated for full-text articles published in English, French, and Italian using the following MeSH terms: ([pulley rupture] OR [finger pulley lesion]) AND ([injur*] OR [ruptur*] OR [damage] OR [trauma*]). Initial screening results identified 461 studies, among which 172 were included after including additional records identified through other sources and excluding repeated studies. Finally, four clinical studies were included in the analysis. The methodological quality of the articles was evaluated through the methodological index for nonrandomized studies (MINORS) score. Our search identified four studies that enrolled a total of 189 patients, of whom 164 were male and 25 were female. We finally examined 154 patients with a total of 208 pulleys damaged. Except for the thumb, all fingers were involved. Depending on the type of flexor pulley injury, graded with Schöffl classification, 69 patients underwent a surgical procedure, whereas 85 patients were treated conservatively. Closed finger pulleys injury occurred in rock climbers and non - rock climbers. All patients had excellent results on the Buck-Gramcko score regardless of the return to sports activity. Considering the overall outcomes of the reviewed articles, functional results were satisfactory in both conservative and surgical treatment. Moreover, in grade 3 and 4, surgical results were positive regardless of the specific technique used for finger pulley reconstruction. Only minor complications were reported. Closed flexor tendon pulley injuries require a careful clinical and imaging examination to confirm the diagnosis. In most cases, positive clinical results can be achieved with either conservative or surgical therapy.

New ways to cope with depression-study protocol for a randomized controlled mixed methods trial of bouldering psychotherapy (BPT) and mental model therapy (MMT).

BACKGROUND: Due to the growing gap between the demand and supply of therapeutic services for people suffering from depression, with this study, we are investigating the effectiveness and factors of influence of new approaches in group treatments for depression. Two previous studies have already identified bouldering psychotherapy (BPT) as an effective option. It combines psychotherapeutic interventions with action- and body-oriented bouldering exercises. Mental model therapy (MMT) is a new cognitive-behavioral approach for treating depression. It focuses on identifying cognitive distortions, biases in decision making, and false assumptions and aims to correct and replace them with useful mental models. We aim to investigate the effectiveness of the interventions compared with a control group (CG) and to assess the factors of influence in a mixed methods approach. METHODS: The study is being conducted as a randomized controlled intervention trial. Adult participants with unipolar depression are being randomized into three groups (BPT, MMT, or CG), and the first two groups are undergoing a 10-week treatment phase. CG follows their individual standard treatment as usual. A priori power analysis revealed that about 120 people should be included to capture a moderate effect. The primary outcome of the study is depression rated with the Montgomery and Asberg Depression Rating Scale (MADRS) before (t0), directly after (t1), and 12 months after the intervention phase (t2). Data are being collected via questionnaires, computer-assisted video interviews, and physical examinations. The primary hypotheses will be statistically analyzed by mixed model ANOVAs to compare the three groups over time. For secondary outcomes, further multivariate methods (e.g., mixed model ANOVAs and regression analyses) will be conducted. Qualitative data will be evaluated on the basis of the qualitative thematic analysis. DISCUSSION: This study is investigating psychological and physical effects of BPT and MMT and its factors of influence on outpatients suffering from depression compared with a CG in a highly naturalistic design. The study could therefore provide insight into the modes of action of group therapy for depression and help to establish new short-term group treatments. Methodological limitations of the study might be the clinical heterogeneity of the sample and confounding effects due to simultaneous individual psychotherapy. TRIAL REGISTRATION: ISRCTN, ISRCTN12347878. Registered 28 March 2022, https://www.isrctn.com/ISRCTN12347878 .

Change in grip strength, hang time, and knot tying speed after 24 hours of endurance rock climbing.

Background: Non-professional climbers are increasingly attempting long routes in a single day. Many suffer injury or rely on search and rescue teams when they become too fatigued to finish. Predicting fatigue is difficult, and existing studies have only studied climbers over durations less than an hour, while many outdoor multipitch climbs require more than an hour of climbing. Objectives: To determine how strength, endurance, and dexterity reflect fatigue after 24 h of continuous climbing. Methods: Volunteer competitors completed measurements of grip strength, static hang time to failure, and time to tie a figure-eight follow-through knot. Measurements were taken during the registration period before the competition and again within an hour after the competition ended. Measurements were compared using the paired t-test. Subgroup analysis was applied to competitors by division. Linear regression was applied to determine the relationship between vertical feet climbed and the number of routes climbed during the competition on each metric. Results: Thirty-six total climbers (average age 29.4 years old) completed pre- and post-competition measurements. After 24 h of climbing (n = 36), mean grip strength decreased by 14.3-15 lbs or 14.7%-15.1% (p < 0.001) and static hang time decreased by 54.2 s or 71.2% (p < 0.001). There was no significant change in time to tie a figure-eight-follow-through knot. Grip strength and hang time decreases were significant in climbers with outdoor redpoints of 5.10a and above. Hang time decreased by 5.4 s per 1,000 vertical feet climbed (p = 0.044). Conclusion: Climbers can expect to experience a 14.7%-15.1% decrease in grip strength and 71.2% decrease in static hang time after 24 h of continuous climbing. These changes may make it difficult to climb consistently over a long objective, and climbers can use these measures at home to train for longer climbing routes. Future studies on shorter climbing intervals can help determine rates of decline in performance measures.

Uncover rock-climbing fish's secret of balancing tight adhesion and fast sliding for bioinspired robots.

The underlying principle of the unique dynamic adaptive adhesion capability of a rock-climbing fish (Beaufortia kweichowensis) that can resist a pull-off force of 1000 times its weight while achieving simultaneous fast sliding (7.83 body lengths per second (BL/S)) remains a mystery in the literature. This adhesion-sliding ability has long been sought for underwater robots. However, strong surface adhesion and fast sliding appear to contradict each other due to the need for high surface contact stress. The skillfully balanced mechanism of the tight surface adhesion and fast sliding of the rock-climbing fish is disclosed in this work. The Stefan force (0.1 mN/mm2) generated by micro-setae on pectoral fins and ventral fins leads to a 70 N/m2 adhesion force by conforming the overall body of the fish to a surface to form a sealing chamber. The pull-off force is neutralized simultaneously due to the negative pressure caused by the volumetric change of the chamber. The rock-climbing fish's micro-setae hydrodynamic interaction and sealing suction cup work cohesively to contribute to low friction and high pull-off-force resistance and can therefore slide rapidly while clinging to the surface. Inspired by this unique mechanism, an underwater robot is developed with incorporated structures that mimic the functionality of the rock-climbing fish via a micro-setae array attached to a soft self-adaptive chamber, a setup which demonstrates superiority over conventional structures in terms of balancing tight underwater adhesion and fast sliding.

A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury.

INTRODUCTION: Strength training has proved to be an effective way to prevent injuries, but the evidence of the impact of strength training on finger injuries is lacking. A fingerboard is a sport-specific tool used by climbers for strength training of fingers. In this study, we searched for associations between fingerboard training and finger injuries in climbers with different lengths of climbing experience and levels of performance. METHODS: A web-based survey was used to collect information on self-perceived pain or injury in fingers (SPIIF) and regular fingerboard training (RFT). The survey was administered to the Finnish climbing community. Data were analyzed using contingency tables; chi-square was used to evaluate statistical significance. RESULTS: No significant correlations between SPIIF and RFT were found when analyzing all the participants (n=434) together. In climbers with 6 y or more in the sport, SPIIF was not common and RFT was negatively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=200]=4.57; P=0.03). In contrast to this, in male climbers who had been climbing for less than 6 y and had advanced to 7a level or higher (French lead/Font bouldering), SPIIF was common and RFT was positively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=75]=4.61; P=0.03). CONCLUSIONS: We suggest that doing RFT may prevent SPIIF in climbers with a long background in the sport as fingerboard training can help build stronger fingers and thereby stronger tendons and ligaments. Climbers with fewer years in the sport and less adaptation to the fingers should be cautious with their training loads and RFT to avoid finger injuries and pain.

Clinical management of finger joint capsulitis/synovitis in a rock climber.

This case study presents a 23-year-old male recreational rock climber, who climbed an average of 3-4 times per week and presented with finger joint capsulitis/synovitis after increasing his climbing intensity and training from moderate to high over 6 months, which led up to injury. During the exam, the diagnosis was ruled in with clinical orthopedic testing. Additional movement analyses revealed improper gripping mechanics contributing to asymmetric finger loading. A comprehensive rehabilitation program was developed based on the concept of a progressive framework that included unloading of the affected tissues, increasing mobility, improving muscle performance, and correcting suboptimal climbing movements. After 6 weeks, the climber's pain 24 h after climbing, which was rated on a visual analog pain scale (VAS), decreased from 5.5/10 to 1.5/10 and 0/10 at the 12-month follow-up. His patient-specific functional scale improved from 0% at the initial evaluation to 43% after 6 weeks and to 98% after 12 months. His sports-specific disabilities of the arm, shoulder, and hand improved from 69% to 34% to 6% during the initial evaluation, 6-week follow-up, and 12-month discharge. He made a full recovery to his previous grade of V8 bouldering. This is the first case study of its kind to provide a rehabilitation framework for the management of finger joint capsulitis/synovitis in a rock climber.

Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization.

Rock climbing has evolved from a method for alpine mountaineering into a popular recreational activity and competitive sport. Advances in safety equipment and the rapid growth of indoor climbing facilities has enabled climbers to focus on the physical and technical movements needed to elevate performance. Through improved training methods, climbers can now achieve ascents of extreme difficulty. A critical aspect to further improve performance is the ability to continuously measure body movement and physiologic responses while ascending the climbing wall. However, traditional measurement devices (e.g., dynamometer) limit data collection during climbing. Advances in wearable and non-invasive sensor technologies have enabled new applications for climbing. This paper presents an overview and critical analysis of the scientific literature on sensors used during climbing. We focus on the several highlighted sensors with the ability to provide continuous measurements during climbing. These selected sensors consist of five main types (body movement, respiration, heart activity, eye gazing, skeletal muscle characterization) that demonstrate their capabilities and potential climbing applications. This review will facilitate the selection of these types of sensors in support of climbing training and strategies.

Effects of single session transcranial direct current stimulation on aerobic performance and one arm pull-down explosive force of professional rock climbers.

Objective: To explore the effects of single-session transcranial direct current stimulation (tDCS) on aerobic performance and explosive force in the one-arm pull-down of long-term trained rock climbers. Method: Twenty athletes (twelve male and eight female) from the Rock Climbing Team of Hunan province (Hunan, China) were selected for a randomized double-blind crossover study. After baseline tests, All subjects visited laboratories twice to randomly receive either sham or a-tDCS at a current intensity of 2 mA for 20 min. The two visits were more than 72 h apart. Immediately after each stimulation, subjects completed a 9-min 3-level-load aerobic test and a one-arm pull-down test. Results: Differences in the heart rate immediately after 9-min incremental aerobic exercises revealed no statistical significance between each group (p > 0.05). However, the decrease in heart rate per unit time after exercise after real stimulation was significantly better than before stimulation (p < 0.05), and no statistical significance was observed between after sham stimulation and before stimulation (p > 0.05). One-arm pull-down explosive force on both sides after real stimulation was improved by a-tDCS compared with before stimulation, but with no significant difference (p > 0.05). Real stimulation was significantly improved, compared with sham stimulation on the right side (p < 0.05). Conclusion: Single-session tDCS could potentially benefit sports performance in professional athletes.

Low occurrence of MRI spinal changes in elite climbing athletes; a cross-sectional study.

OBJECTIVES: To examine the occurrence of magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) changes in the thoracolumbar spine among elite climbing athletes. METHODS: All climbers of the Swedish national sport climbing team (n = 8), and individuals having trained for selection to the national team (n = 11), were prospectively included. A control group, matched in age and sex, were recruited. All participants underwent a thoracolumbar MRI (1.5 T, T1- and T2-weighted imaging), evaluated according to Pfirrmann classification, modified Endplate defect score, Modic changes, apophyseal injuries and spondylolisthesis. Pfirrmann ≥ 3, Endplate defect score ≥ 2 and Modic ≥ 1 was defined as degenerative findings. RESULTS: Fifteen individuals, 8 women, participated in both the climbing group (mean age 23.1, SD 3.2 years) and the control group respectively (mean age 24.3, SD 1.5 years). In the climbing group, 6.1% of the thoracic and 10.6% of the lumbar intervertebral discs showed signs of degeneration according to Pfirrmann. One disc with a grade above 3 was present. Modic changes in the thoracic/lumbar spine were prevalent in 1.7%/1.3% of the vertebrae. Degenerative endplate changes according to the Endplate defect score were found in 8.9% and 6.6% of the thoracic and lumbar spinal segments of the climbing group, respectively. Two apophyseal injuries were found, while no participants displayed signs of spondylolisthesis. There was no difference in point-prevalence of radiographic spinal changes between climbers and controls (0.07 < p < 1.0). CONCLUSION: In this small cross-sectional study, only a low proportion of elite climbers displayed changes of the spinal endplates or intervertebral discs, as opposed to other sports with high spinal loads. Most observed abnormalities were low grade degenerative changes and did not differ statistically compared to controls.