RESUMEN
BACKGROUND: Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipophilic precursor to ascorbic acid that may be stabilized by acetyl zingerone (AZ). Studies have shown that the topical application of THDA may have photoprotective effects. Similarly, AZ has been shown to mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress, thereby improving the appearance of photoaging. AIMS: To examine the effects of THDA and AZ (THDA-AZ) on skin photoaging compared to THDA alone. PATIENTS/METHODS: In this double-blind, randomized controlled trial, healthy individuals aged 30 to 65 were included and 44 participants were randomized to receive either THDA-AZ (THDA 5% + AZ 1%) or THDA only (THDA 5%) for 8 weeks. Facial photographs were taken at 0, 4, and 8 weeks to analyze wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and redness intensity. A skin colorimeter was used to assess infraorbital pigmentation and erythema. Self-perception of skin and tolerability were assessed through questionnaires. RESULTS: Average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 0.75% (p = 0.023) and 3.72% (p = 0.048), respectively, compared to the THDA group where wrinkle severity at Weeks 4 and 8 was increased by 7.88% and 4.48%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group by 4.10% (p = 0.0002) at Week 8 compared to a 0.69% decrease in the THDA group. Facial redness intensity was decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 3.73% (p = 0.0162) and 14.25% (p = 0.045), respectively, compared to the THDA group where at Weeks 4 and 8 erythema increased by 27.5% and 8.34%, respectively. There were no significant differences in either group for infraorbital pigmentation or erythema. CONCLUSIONS: Daily use of combined THDA and AZ may improve facial wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and erythema to a greater extent than THDA. While THDA alone increases facial wrinkle severity and erythema, the addition of AZ reduces both.
RESUMEN
Preliminary findings from multiple studies indicate that dietary intake of soy-derived isoflavones exert beneficial effects on the skin including defense against oxidant damage, stimulation of collagen synthesis, and increased hydration. This study aims to investigate how oral supplementation of a soy protein isolate with added isoflavones (SPII) affects components of photoaging such as facial wrinkles and dyspigmentation, and skin biophysical measures such as skin hydration and sebum excretion in postmenopausal women. This 6-month prospective, randomized double-blind controlled study was conducted on 44 postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, and III who were randomized to receive either casein protein or SPII. A high-resolution facial photography system was used to measure wrinkle severity and pigmentation at 0, 8, 16, and 24 weeks. Skin biophysical measurements included skin hydration and sebum production. The average wrinkle severity was decreased in the SPII intervention group at week 16 and week 24 by 5.9% and 7.1%, respectively, compared to the baseline. Compared to the casein group, average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased at week 16 (p < 0.05) and week 24 (p < 0.0001). Facial pigment intensity was decreased by -2.5% (p < 0.05) at week 24, whereas there was no significant change in the casein group. Compared to baseline, skin hydration in the SPII group was significantly increased by 39% and 68% on the left and right cheeks (p < 0.05), respectively, at 24 weeks. There were no significant differences in sebum production. Dietary soy protein supplementation with isoflavones may improve skin photoaging, including wrinkles and dyspigmentation, and increase skin hydration in postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, and III.
