Reduction of residual topical diclofenac in waste water by a wiping procedure before hand washing.

Diclofenac is non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) with widespread usage as a topical treatment for relief of pain and inflammation in soft-tissue injuries. While the permeation mechanisms of topically applied diclofenac are well documented, the fate of residual diclofenac not retained at the site of pain following subsequent hand-washing is still not well characterized. The aim of this study quantifies the amount of diclofenac present in rinse water after the application of a topical pain gel containing 23.2 mg/g diclofenac diethylamine, and subsequent washing of the hands. A comparison of two different hand washing techniques was completed with and without wiping hands directly after product application and before washing. A pilot study was completed to optimize the analytical procedures used in the quantification of diclofenac in the rinse water, followed by a main study with 24 test subjects. The data were first analyzed separately and subsequently pooled for statistical analysis. To determine the amount of diclofenac in the rinse water samples, we used reverse phase-liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (RP-LC-MS/MS). It was determined that a hand washing procedure with a pre-wash wipe of the hands with a paper towel resulted in a 66% reduction in diclofenac released into the waste water system (7.43 ± 3.02 mg/L). This study shows for the first time that a wiping procedure before hand washing will have a significant impact on the amount of diclofenac in the rinse water. Thus, it is possible to significantly impact the release of non-absorbed residual diclofenac after product application.

Effect of a newly developed pastille on the salivary flow rate in subjects with dry mouth symptoms: a randomized, controlled, monocentric clinical study.

BACKGROUND: Xerostomia is associated with several diseases and is a side effect of certain drugs, resulting from reduced saliva secretion. Often, aged and sometimes younger people suffer from (idiopathic) xerostomia. Chewing gum and sucking pastilles may relieve symptoms of xerostomia by increasing the salivary flow rate due to the mechanical effect of sucking and gustatory stimulation. Swallowing problems and the urge to cough or experiencing a tickling sensation in the throat might be alleviated through a reduction in dry mouth symptoms. We investigated whether a pastille containing four polysaccharides increased the salivary flow rate and relieved the symptoms of dry mouth. METHODS: Participating subjects with xerostomia were randomized into two equally balanced treatment groups. Subjects received the pastille on Day 1 and a control product (Parafilm®) on Day 3, or vice versa. Unstimulated saliva was collected every 2.5 min for 0-10 min. Stimulated saliva was collected after subjects sucked the pastille or the control product. The salivary flow rate was determined gravimetrically, and, in parallel, the feeling of dry mouth was assessed using a visual analog scale. Saliva surface tension was measured in pooled saliva samples (0-5 min of sampling). Additionally, in stimulated saliva from six subjects who sucked the pastille, the presence of the main ingredient-gum arabic-was examined by Raman spectroscopy. RESULTS: Chewing the pastille significantly increased the mean salivary flow rate by 8.03 g/10 min compared to the mean changes after chewing the control product (+ 3.71 g/10 min; p < 0.0001). The mean score of dry mouth was significantly alleviated by the pastille (- 19.9 ± 17.9 mm) compared to the control product (- 3.3 ± 18.1 mm). No difference between the two products was seen regarding the saliva surface tension. Gum arabic was present in the saliva of all investigated subjects for up to 10 min after sucking the pastille. CONCLUSIONS: The pastille was well tolerated and effective in increasing the salivary flow rate and reducing mouth dryness after sucking. These results were in line with the detection of the main ingredient, gum arabic, in saliva for up to 10 min after sucking the pastille. Trial registration German Register Clinical Trials (Deutsches Register Klinische Studien, DRKS) DRKS-ID: DRKS00017393, Registered 29 May 2019, https://www.drks.de/drks_web/navigate.do?navigationId=trial . HTML&TRIAL_ID = DRKS00017393.

Multi parametric biophysical assessment of treatment effects on xerotic skin.

Background: Topical moisturizing products are widely used to alleviate the problems associated with xerotic skin. Their use affects many properties of the stratum corneum (SC) in a complex and interrelated manner. The range of measurement techniques available to the researcher has increased in recent years. However, few studies have looked for correlations between the different techniques for assessing how aspects of xerotic skin change over time as a result of topical moisturizer usage. Objectives: A 3-week in vivo study using an oil-in-water based moisturizing product and an untreated site was conducted to determine the clinical significance of and any correlations between a range of different approaches for the measurement of skin lipid content and also skin hydration and visual grading of dry skin. Methods: A range of traditional and more recently developed skin measurement techniques have been used to examine a variety of SC properties in normal and xerotic skin during topical moisturizer usage. Results: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and analysis of SC lipids from tape strips both showed an increase in SC lipid level and organization after 3 weeks of moisturizer usage on xerotic skin. Hydration, measured both optically and electrically, also increased and skin barrier function improved, with strong correlations between the different measures of dryness being observed. Conclusions: Strong correlations were observed between the skin measurements for lipid assessment and skin hydration with regard to the assessment of xerotic skin, providing valuable new information for future in vivo clinical research into dry and atopic skin. Keywords biophysical assessment, skin barrier, skin hydration, topical moisturizers, Xerosis.

Objective and subjective reduction of cellulite volume using a localized vibrational massage device in a 24-week randomized intra-individual single-blind regression study.

Cellulite occurs in females and is a common condition of altered connective tissue matrix and increased adipogenicity with visible dimples and orange-peel appearance on the skins surface. Whilst advancements in methods continue to help our understanding, attempts to correct the appearance of cellulite topically have yielded limited success. Various kinds of non-invasive body contouring methods such as whole body vibration have been reported with demonstrable visible improvements in the cellulite condition. The aim of this study was to evaluate volume reduction and improvement of the visible appearance of cellulite as judged both objectively (AEVA-HE phase-shift 3-D fringe projection, macrophotography image grading) and subjectively (questionnaires) after application of a hand-held localized vibrational device over 24-weeks. The study was conducted on 40 healthy female volunteers who were instructed how to use the device on defined areas of cellulite of the outside and rear of the thighs (iliotibial band, and over biceps femoris region respectively). The initial 12 weeks of continuous massage application of the study were followed by a 12 week phase in which volunteers were split into 2 subgroups - one for assessment of regression effects and one for continuous application effects. AEVA (skin surface volume) measurements of cellulite-related dimples correlated with questionnaires and visual image evaluation scoring, in that in the iliotibial region cellulite was significantly reduced at 12 weeks. In the regression subgroup cellulite returned to initial values soon after cessation of treatment, whereas in the continuous application subgroup, cellulite remained diminished. The effect of this device to reduce cellulite as observed in this study proves that continuous use of vibrational massage is beneficial to mitigate visible signs of cellulite.

La cellulite se produit chez les femmes et est un état d'altération courant de la matrice du tissu conjonctif et d'une adipogenèse accrue se manifestant par l´apparition des fossettes visibles et un aspect de peau d'orange à la surface de la peau. Bien que les progrès des méthodes approfondissent notre compréhension, les tentatives de corrections de l'apparence de la cellulite par voie topique ont produit des résultats limités. Divers types de méthodes non invasives du body contouring, telle que la vibration entière de celui-ci, ont été rapportées, et ce, avec des améliorations visibles et démontrables de l'état de la cellulite.L'objectif de cette étude était d'évaluer la réduction du volume et l'amélioration de l'apparence visible de la cellulite, comme jugées à la fois objectivement (AEVA-HE phase-shift 3-D projection de franges, gradation d'images par macrophotographie) et subjectivement (questionnaires) après application localisée d'un appareil vibratoire manuel pendant 24 semaines. L'étude a été menée sur 40 femmes volontaires en bonne santé qui ont reçu des instructions à-propos de comment utiliser l'appareil sur des zones externes et bien définies de la cellulite et à l'arrière des cuisses (bande iliotibiale et sur la région du biceps fémoral respectivement). Les 12 premières semaines d'application de massage continue ont été suivies d'une phase de 12 semaines au cours de laquelle les volontaires ont été divisés en deux sous-groupes - un pour l'évaluation des effets de régression et un pour l'évaluation des effets de l'application continue.Les mesures AEVA (volume de la surface de la peau) des capitons liés à la cellulite corrélées avec les questionnaires et le score visuel d'évaluation d'images, dans laquelle, la cellulite dans la région iliotibiale, était significativement réduite à 12 semaines. Dans la régression du sous-groupe, la cellulite est revenue aux valeurs initiales peu après l'arrêt du traitement, tandis que dans le sous-groupe d'application continue, la cellulite est restée diminuée. L'effet de ce dispositif pour réduire la cellulite tel qu'observé dans cette étude prouve que l'utilisation continue du massage vibratoire est bénéfique pour mitiger les signes visibles de la cellulite.

Deposition of plant lipids after single application of a lip care product determined by confocal raman spectroscopy, corneometry and transepidermal water-loss.

OBJECTIVE: Lip treatment products often incorporate oils and waxes in their formulations, and a desired outcome of their use is to prevent lip dryness and roughness as well as help to repair this condition. The objective of this study was to combine confocal Raman spectroscopy with skin capacitance (corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (closed chamber Aquaflux system) measurements, in the evaluation of the degree of moisturization and lip skin penetration of a fruit wax (Rhus vernicula peel cera) and natural oil-based (Cocos nucifera fruit oil and Olea europea oil) lip care product, following a single application. METHODS: The study was conducted on a total of 15 healthy female volunteers. Instrumental measurements were performed before and 30 min, 2 h and 6 h after a single application of the product. RESULTS: Lip skin barrier function as well as lip hydration were significantly improved and penetration of olive oil was maintained for at least 6 h post product application. The deposition of the three component lipids (berry fruit wax, coconut oil and olive oil) into the stratum corneum after a single application of the lip care product was maintained and data significant for 2-6 h post product application. Lipid deposition was regarded as a positive long-lasting skin care (depot-) effect combined with a profound hydrating effect for about 6 h. CONCLUSION: The tri-method approach taken in this study is deemed relevant and valid for measuring lip hydration offering a complimentary assessment of the barrier function of lip skin and interactive effects of cosmetic ingredients.

OBJECTIFS: Les formulations des produits de soins des lèvres contiennent souvent des huiles et des cires. En outre, la prévention, voire la réparation de la sécheresse et de la rugosité des lèvres font partie des résultats attendus de l'utilisation de ces produits. Cette étude avait pour objectif d'associer une spectroscopie confocale Raman à des mesures de la capacitance de la peau (cornéométrie) et de la perte d'eau transépidermique (système à chambre fermée Aquaflux), dans l'évaluation du niveau d'hydratation et de pénétration cutanées des lèvres d'une cire à base de fruits (cire d'écorce de Vernis du Japon) et d'un produit de soins des lèvres à base d'huiles naturelles (huile de coco et huile d'olive), après une seule application. MÉTHODES: Au total, l'étude a été menée auprès de 15 volontaires en bonne santé de sexe féminin. Des mesures instrumentales ont été réalisées avant, puis 30 minutes, 2 heures et 6 heures après une seule application du produit. RÉSULTATS: Une amélioration significative de la fonction barrière et de l'hydratation de la peau des lèvres a été observée, et la pénétration cutanée de l'huile d'olive est demeurée stable pendant au moins 6 heures après l'application du produit. Le dépôt des trois lipides entrant dans sa composition (la cire de baies, l'huile de coco et l'huile d'olive) dans la couche cornée s'est prolongé pendant 2 à 6 heures après une seule application du produit de soins des lèvres, présentant ainsi un intérêt significatif pour le recueil de données. Les résultats concernant le dépôt lipidique ont décrit un effet positif et durable dans le soin de la peau associé à une hydratation intense pendant environ 6 heures. CONCLUSION: L'approche à trois méthodes adoptée dans le cadre de cette étude pour mesurer l'hydratation des lèvres est jugée pertinente et valable, car elle offre une évaluation complémentaire de la fonction barrière de la peau des lèvres et des effets interactifs des ingrédients entrant dans la composition des cosmétiques.

Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies.

OBJECTIVE: Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturizing cream for the first time in humans. METHODS: In both studies, healthy women were randomized to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2). Instrumental and clinical skin assessments were performed by trained technicians. Study 1 involved tape stripping and a 5-day no-treatment ('regression') period at the end of the 4 weeks. Independent lay graders were asked to grade the skin texture of subjects in Study 2 from high-resolution photographs. RESULTS: In Study 1 (n = 66), the test cream significantly decreased the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values on the forearm, and in the cheek area of the face, relative to baseline and compared to no treatment, and increased skin Corneometer values. The improvements were partially retained during a subsequent 5-day period of no treatment. Increases in TEWL values on skin subjected to tape stripping were significantly lower after 4 weeks of using the test cream compared to no treatment. In Study 2 (n = 72 subjects with visible signs of ageing), there was a favourable trend in the change from baseline of a skin roughness parameter, Ra , for the test cream compared to no treatment. There were statistically significant improvements in the Fitzpatrick wrinkle score compared to no treatment, decreases in TEWL and increased Corneometer values and Cutometer values (R5 elasticity parameter). Grading of high-resolution images failed to detect the improvements in skin texture (defined as pores, smoothness and unevenness) for the test cream vs. no treatment. No treatment-related serious or severe adverse events were reported. CONCLUSION: Twice daily application of the test cream over 4 weeks had beneficial effects on skin barrier function, moisturization, wrinkle dimensions and elasticity compared to no treatment. These studies provide proof-of-concept evidence and highlight the cosmetic benefit of the biomimetic lamellar cream formulation. STUDY REGISTRATION: NCT03216265, NCT03180645.

OBJECTIF: Deux études ont été conçues pour évaluer pour la première fois chez l'être humain l'éventuel bénéfice cosmétique d'une crème hydratante biomimétique contenant de la niacinamide. MÉTHODES: Dans les deux études, des femmes en bonne santé ont été randomisées pour utiliser deux traitements, un pour le côté gauche du corps et un pour le côté droit, choisis entre trois options : la crème testée, un contrôle positif ou aucun traitement (utilisation d'un nettoyant standard uniquement). Les traitements ont été appliqués deux fois par jour pendant 4 semaines sur le visage et les avant-bras (Étude 1) ou seulement sur le visage (Étude 2). Des évaluations instrumentales et cliniques de la peau ont été effectuées par des techniciens qualifiés. L'étude 1 impliquait un stripping et une période de 5 jours sans traitement (« régression ¼) à la fin des 4 semaines. Il a été demandé à des évaluateurs profanes indépendants d'évaluer la texture de la peau des participantes dans l'Étude 2 à partir de photographies à haute résolution. RÉSULTATS: Dans l'Étude 1 (n = 66), la crème testée a diminué de manière significative les valeurs de la perte en eau transépidermique (transepidermal water loss, TEWL) au niveau de l'avant-bras, et au niveau de la joue, par rapport à la valeur de base, et par rapport au groupe sans aucun traitement, et a augmenté les valeurs des paramètres cutanés mesurés avec un cornéomètre. Les améliorations ont été partiellement conservées pendant une période ultérieure de 5 jours sans aucun traitement. Des augmentations des valeurs TEWL sur la peau exposée à un décollement d'un ruban adhésif étaient significativement plus faibles après 4 semaines d'utilisation de la crème testée par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Dans l'Étude 2 (n = 72 participantes avec des signes visibles de vieillissement), il y avait une tendance favorable au niveau de la variation par rapport à la valeur de base du paramètre relatif à la rugosité de la peau, Ra, pour la crème testée par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Il y a eu des améliorations statistiquement significatives du score de Fitzpatrick pour les rides par rapport à l'absence de traitement, des diminutions des valeurs TEWL et une augmentation des valeurs des paramètres mesurés avec un cornéomètre et des valeurs des paramètres mesurés avec un cutomètre (paramètre élasticité R5). L'évaluation des images à haute résolution n'a pas permis de détecter les améliorations de la texture de la peau (définie par les pores, la finesse et les irrégularités) pour la crème testée par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Aucun événement indésirable grave ou sévère lié au traitement n'a été rapporté. CONCLUSION: Une application deux fois par jour de la crème testée pendant 4 semaines a eu des effets bénéfiques sur la fonction barrière de la peau, l'hydratation, l'aspect des rides et l'élasticité par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Ces études fournissent des éléments de preuve de concept et soulignent les bienfaits cosmétiques de la formule lamellaire biomimétique de la crème. Numéro d'enregistrement de l'étude : NCT03216265, NCT03180645.

Multicenter methodology comparison of the FDA and ISO standard for measurement of in vitro UVA protection of sunscreen products.

In vitro standard methods are available and accepted worldwide to assess UVA protection of sunscreen products. Though, harmonisation of methods has made progress in the last decade, still two differing methods - one by FDA the other by ISO - are in use. In a multicentre study including 9 centres in Germany, 4 different commercial sunscreen products were assessed using both methods to discover their similarities and differences. UVA protection factor and Critical Wavelength were detected at various substrate type (sandblasted versus moulded PMMA plates), at different surface roughness of the plates as well as at different product application dose using two different irradiation spectra. Results: The strongest influence on UVA protection factor results from the surface roughness of the plates. Depending on the roughness (accepted range of 2 to 7 µm in the FDA method) a variability in the UVA protection factor of up to 25% was observed, while the much narrower definition of plate roughness by ISO (4.5 to 5.2 µm) had no relevant influence on the test results. Sandblasted plates in our assessment led to higher UVA protection factors and produced less scattered results compared to moulded plates. These differences were not pronounced. Application dose and spectra of the irradiation source were of negligible influence on UVA protection factor results for the investigated UV-filter combinations. The UVA protection factor which is the endpoint of the ISO method was found to be a parameter with a high potential to differentiate among different test products. The endpoint of the FDA method - the Critical Wavelength - was found to be an unambitious endpoint. Insensitivity to all described modifications of the method was observed. All investigated products performed similar and passed the Critical Wavelength criteria independent of method and parameters.

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin - New perspectives and evaluation for claims support.

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti-ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity-all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.

Observer-blind randomized controlled study of a cosmetic blend of safflower, olive and other plant oils in the improvement of scar and striae appearance.

OBJECTIVE: The normal process of skin tissue repair following injury invariably results in visual scarring. It is known that topical treatment with hydrophobic cosmetics rich in silicone and mineral oil content can improve the appearance of scars and striae. Given lifestyle preferences of many cosmetic consumers towards so-called natural treatments, the objective of this controlled randomized study was to investigate the efficacy of a plant body oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids (Bio Skin Oil® ) for improving the appearance of scars and striae. METHODS: A panel of 80 volunteers with non-hypertrophic scars (40) or stretch marks (40) not older than 3 years applied a cosmetic face and body oil for 8 weeks. Compared to an untreated scar/stretch mark region, a blinded investigator as well as volunteer assessments with given observed parameters demonstrated the efficacy of the oil under test. RESULTS: On the Observer Scar Assessment Scale (OSAS), the mean score was reduced on the product-treated area by approximately 5% (P = 0.006). The untreated area remained unchanged. Observed effects by volunteers were more pronounced - Patient Scar Assessment Scale (PSAS) giving a reduction of approximately 20% on the treated area, and on the control untreated area a reduction of approximately 6%. The overall product effect of 14% was shown to be clearly significant (P = 0.001). All statements relating to product traits achieved higher frequencies of agreements than of non-agreements and were therefore assessed positively by the volunteers. Highest frequencies of agreements occurred in statements that the test product provides a long-lasting, soft and supple skin feeling (93%); caring effect (87%); and quick absorbance (84%). Agreement was also found for statements that the product improves the skin appearance (61%) and that scars/striae appear less pronounced (51%). Only 17% of volunteers felt the oil had no benefit to the appearance of their scars/striae. CONCLUSIONS: The oil blend under test is effective in improving the appearance of non-keloid scars and striae. Further work is required to understand the mechanisms of how plant oil fatty acids ameliorate scar and striae appearance.

A plant oil-containing pH 4 emulsion improves epidermal barrier structure and enhances ceramide levels in aged skin.

OBJECTIVE: Xerosis is a serious problem among the very old. It is a dermatological challenge caused by significant alterations in stratum corneum (SC) function and structure. Two negative changes in aged skin are (i) the enhanced skin surface pH and (ii) the altered SC lipid content, composition and ordering. METHODS: Therefore, we investigated the way in which an acidic skin care product with different plant oils affects SC function, structure and lipid profile in older subjects with dry skin. Before and after a 3-week application period, different biophysical measurements were performed: transepidermal water loss, SC hydration and skin surface pH. In addition, the SC lipid matrix was evaluated by analysis of the intercellular lipid lamellae and the SC lipid profile. RESULTS: After treatment, a significant increase in lipid lamellae in the intercellular space of the SC was observed in the area treated with the test product compared to the untreated area. Furthermore, the ceramide level was found to be increased, although ceramides were not provided by the acidic test formulation. CONCLUSION: In summary, topical application of a pH 4.0 product containing plant oils improves epidermal barrier formation and SC lipid ordering and ratio in aged dry skin.

Models of wound healing: an emphasis on clinical studies.

BACKGROUND: The healing of wounds has always provided challenges for the medical community whether chronic or acute. Understanding the processes which enable wounds to heal is primarily carried out by the use of models, in vitro, animal and human. It is generally accepted that the use of human models offers the best opportunity to understand the factors that influence wound healing as well as to evaluate efficacy of treatments applied to wounds. OBJECTIVES: The objective of this article is to provide an overview of the different methodologies that are currently used to experimentally induce wounds of various depths in human volunteers and examines the information that may be gained from them. METHODS: There is a number of human volunteer healing models available varying in their invasiveness to reflect the different possible depth levels of wounds. RESULTS: Currently available wound healing models include sequential tape stripping, suction blister, abrasion, laser, dermatome, and biopsy techniques. The various techniques can be utilized to induce wounds of variable depth, from removing solely the stratum corneum barrier, the epidermis to even split-thickness or full thickness wounds. CONCLUSION: Depending on the study objective, a number of models exist to study wound healing in humans. These models provide efficient and reliable results to evaluate treatment modalities.

Comparison of the stratum corneum thickness measured in vivo with confocal Raman spectroscopy and confocal reflectance microscopy.

BACKGROUND: Thickness measurement of the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is essential for in-vivo measurement of the cutaneous bioavailability of topically applied drugs and cosmetics. Our aim was to compare SC thickness calculated from confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) data with results of SC thickness based on confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) measurements and with literature data, to validate CRS data with CLSM data and vice versa. METHODS: SC thickness was measured with two non-invasive devices, confocal Raman spectroscopy and confocal laser scanning microscopy, on four different areas of the body: volar forearm, leg, face and palm in 18 healthy adult subjects. RESULTS: Comparable results of SC thickness were obtained with both methods, structure analysis of CLSM images, and computation of Fick's first law on water gradients measured with CRS: 20 µm and 19 µm (volar forearm), 21 µm and 22 µm (lower leg), and 13 µm with both methods (cheek), respectively. DISCUSSION: For the first time it was possible to accurately determine the thickness of SC with CRS and CLSM and to validate both systems against each other and with results of literature data. CONCLUSION: Both methods, CRS and CLSM, were found to be suitable to measure SC thickness correctly. Therefore, when using CRS, for example to obtain detailed information about the molecular composition of the skin, it is additionally possible to accurately measure SC thickness with the same device to have an orientation in which skin layer molecules are found.

Chances and limits of an improved method to assess water resistance of cosmetic sunscreen products in vitro on polymethylmethacrylate plates.

While sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection are the most important determinants of a cosmetic sunscreen product, water resistance is the third important feature. The Colipa in vivo method is the internationally accepted standard method to assess water resistance. It is time-consuming and expensive. A screening method to quickly predict water resistance properties on low cost therefore is a specific request of product developers. Several in vitro screening methods are published but the predictive power of all these methods is limited. In this paper, we describe an adaptation of the in vitro UVA protection method of Colipa for a water resistance screening. Although the method is quick and most parts are standardized and approved by Colipa, the results were not in advantage of other published screening methods. Taking into account, the scatter of the results, seven of 16 sunscreen products that were developed as water resistant formulations could be unambiguously estimated to be water resistant by the in vivo water resistance screening method on five subjects while nine failed. In 10 of these 16 results, the in vitro SPF-based method was in accordance with in vivo findings, whereas in six cases, the method was not predicting correctly. Based on these results, the authors recommend to use the in vitro screening methods to pre-select from candidates which cannot all be tested in vivo. The pre-selected products can be screened in the Colipa in vivo water resistance method with a reduced number of volunteers (usually 5) to predict water resistance. In case, the water resistance estimated in such an in vivo screening is found at about 65% or higher the study can be deemed successful and completed with further subjects to fulfil the Colipa requirements.

Internet-based lay person rating of facial photographs to assess effects of a cleansing product and a decent cosmetic foundation on the attractiveness of female faces.

It is well established that decorative cosmetics can enhance female facial attractiveness. In this study, we investigated the effects of a cleanser and a decent foundation on attractiveness of female faces. Comparative rating of a set of facial photographs by a group of lay persons revealed that the cleansing product was significantly reducing the attractiveness of the stimulus persons. Treatment with the foundation increased the attractiveness of the female faces clearly. The authors conclude that even unobtrusive cosmetic treatments like cleansers and light foundations may cause relevant changes of the attractiveness of female faces.

A review of the effects of moisturizers on the appearance of scars and striae.

Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum (SC) that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in SC capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to be totally pressure related. However, studies have demonstrated that the direct effects of hydration on keratinocytes and fibroblasts contribute to the reduction in hypertrophic scarring. Now it is well known that occlusion can regulate epidermal cytokine and growth factor production; changes in profibrotic and anti-fibrotic factors have been established. As a result, it is to be expected that moisturizers may improve the signs and symptoms of scars. As striae have been suggested to be anatomically similar to scars and as it is well established that paracrine signalling occurs in skin, it is expected that striae have similar SC issues. While one cannot exclude the effects of some of the ingredients used in the products, several studies are reported in this review that demonstrates that moisturization is a key component to reducing the clinical signs and symptoms of scars and striae. This is a good example of how knowledge of corneobiology leads to corneotherapies for these skin condition problems. The review is being written in memory of Professor Johann Wiechers who, before he died tragically in November 2011, performed two of the reported studies together with colleagues.

A review of the effects of moisturisers on the appearance of scars and striae.

Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to be totally pressure related. However, studies have demonstrated that the direct effects of hydration on keratinocytes and fibroblasts contribute to the reduction in hypertrophic scarring. Now it is well known that occlusion can regulate epidermal cytokine and growth factor production; changes in profibrotic and antifibrotic factors have been established. As a result it is to be expected that moisturisers may improve the signs and symptoms of scars. As striae have been suggested to be anatomically similar to scars and since it is well established that paracrine signalling occurs in skin it is expected that striae have similar stratum corneum issues. While one cannot exclude the effects of some of the ingredients used in the products, several studies are reported in this review which demonstrates that moisturisation is a key component to reducing the clinical signs and symptoms of scars and striae. This is a good example of how knowledge of corneobiology leads to corneotherapies for these skin condition problems. The paper is being written in memory of Professor Johann Wiechers who, before he died tragically in November 2011, performed two of the reported studies together with colleagues. © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.

An evaluation of the skin stripping of wound dressing adhesives.

OBJECTIVE: This study looks at six different modern wound dressings to investigate how likely they are to cause skin stripping and impairment of the skin's barrier function. METHOD: Healthy volunteers had each dressing applied, removed and reapplied to the skin on their back over the study period of 15 days. Skin barrier function was investigated using the amount of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and then related to the amount of skin stripping, investigated by measuring stained skin removal, the thickness of the stratum corneum after treatment, and the amount of skin attached to the removed dressings. General signs of trauma, such as skin dryness and erythema, were investigated by subjective and objective parameters. RESULTS: TEWL values measured on the untreated test area, as well as after application of Urgotul Trio, remained relatively unchanged and Mepilex Border decreased slightly (?1g/m2/h), while all other dressings displayed an increased in TEWL: Allevyn Adhesive (5g/m2/h), Versiva XC (14g/m2/h), Comfeel Plus (22g/m2/h) and Biatain (28g/m2/h). By the end of the study, only the untreated area (mean 43% dye remaining), Mepilex Border (76%) and Urgotul Trio (34%) areas had visible dye remaining. It is interesting to note that the untreated site had a colour change, suggesting loss of stratum corneum, due to the shedding of skin cells from the surface. The increase in total skin colour for Comfeel Plus and Biatain after day 8 might be assigned to an increased redness due to erythema. All the dressings showed evidence of stratum corneum attached to the adhesive, except Mepilex Border, which appeared to be free of any attached stratum corneum. CONCLUSION: Overall the best performance in terms of skin protection and failure to cause skin trauma was found to be for Mepilex Border. CONFLICT OF INTEREST: This project was funded by a grant from Mölnlycke Healthcare Ltd.

Cream or foam in pedal skin care: towards the ideal vehicle for urea used against dry skin.

The aim of this study was to evaluate different urea-containing cosmetic preparations designed for foot care regarding skin occlusion. The primary aim was therefore to screen the short-term transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as a parameter for skin barrier function and skin occlusion and to characterize the relative role of the vehicle, i.e. cream or foam in the context of cosmetics containing urea in the 2-10% range addressing the cosmetic products urea 2% cream (GEHWOL FUSSKRAFT blau), petrolatum containing cream (GEHWOL med Schrundensalbe), urea 10% cream (GEHWOL med Lipidro-Crème), urea 10% foam (Allpresan Fuss Schaum) and vaseline (positive control) compared with an untreated area on the volar forearms of volunteers. Moreover, the short time (24 h) kinetics regarding the moisturizing effect of cream and foam formulations in diabetic patients were compared. The efficacy of a cream on reduction of skin thickness of hyperkeratotic skin in the heel region before and after a period of product application was also evaluated. In some of the trials, healthy individuals and in others, diabetic patients (type I and II) were enrolled. TEWL was determined before product application, as well as at given points of time thereafter. In this study, no excessive occlusion effects comparable with a blockage of the skin's natural water evaporation could be observed for any of the test products. To the extent to be expected, this was found neither for the cream products nor for the foam product. Slightly lowered TEWL values after application of the 10% urea cream can be interpreted as a beneficial effect in terms of an improved barrier function. Regarding skin moisture, the urea-containing cream formulation appeared equal or slightly superior to the foam formulation. The thickness of the horny layer was found reduced after application of 10 % urea-containing cream. At present it looks as if cream vehicles would still be vehicles of choice in general, when it comes to the formulation of skin care preparations for not only dry skin but also in the context of pedal skin care.

In vitro sun protection factor: still a challenge with no final answer.

In the past, several attempts have been made to develop in vitro methods for determining protection against UV radiation. To date however, there is no broadly accepted method. Various known and unknown parameters influence the transmission measurements of scattering films, such as the multifaceted compositions of sunscreens, the technical limitations of measurement devices as well as the difficulty to apply very thin films of sunscreen in a reproducible manner throughout different laboratories. In vitro data were measured in this multicenter study to compare possible methodologies and strategies for an in vitro approach to the sun protection factor (SPF). This publication will not present a final in vitro SPF test method, but it will point out which technical side effects may influence such a method. Influential factors such as the quality of spectrophotometer used, the amount of product applied, pretreatment of samples, time and temperature of equilibration, size of the measured surface, the application process or the calculation on the basis of standardized data are presented and discussed. Finally, a reduction of the standard deviations within single laboratories could be realized for in vitro SPF testing, but no improvement of the interlaboratory comparison was obtained. The development of a valid and reliable SPF in vitro test still remains a challenge, and further work is necessary to develop a satisfactory method.

p53 labeling index in assessing the efficacy of a sunscreen in protection against UV-induced damage.

BACKGROUND: Sunscreen efficacy is currently evaluated by the estimation of the sun protection factor (SPF). Our objective was to determine the role of the p53 labeling index in assessing the effectiveness of a sunscreen in the prevention of UV-induced DNA damage. METHODS: A broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF15) was applied to two of four test areas on the backs of 20 volunteers. Two test areas (with and without prior sunscreen application) were then irradiated with two minimal erythemal doses (MEDs) of solar-simulated UV radiation (290-400 nm). At 24 h, suction blisters were raised from all four test areas using a vacuum technique, and immunohistochemical staining for p53 was performed. RESULTS: In normal epidermis, nonirradiated without sunscreen, p53 was almost undetectable [0.5% positive cells per field (PC/F)]. In UV-exposed skin without sunscreen, p53 expression was 10.4% PC/F, whereas, in skin treated with sunscreen before UV irradiation, p53 expression was 0.3% PC/F. The mean positive labeling indices (x10(3)/microm) for UV-exposed skin with and without sunscreen were 0.002 and 0.059, respectively (P < 0.001). CONCLUSIONS: In vivo assessment of the p53 labeling index using the suction blister method can serve as a sensitive endpoint in the evaluation of the effectiveness of a sunscreen in the prevention of UV-induced DNA damage.