Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations: a cross-cultural study.

OBJECTIVE: Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross-information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish cross-culturally preferences. METHODS: For this, a total panel of 100 consumers of cosmetics evaluated four different products. The same protocol for the sensory analysis was followed in both countries. RESULTS: The panellists were able to perceive differences in the products and the method proved to be repeatable in both countries. The presence of UV filters in the formulation was noticed and displeased both populations. Brazilians, although dissatisfied with the sensory aspect of the sunscreen, are willing to use it for its UV protection. CONCLUSION: This work delivers important information on the sensory perception of cosmetics by people from different countries and brings important knowledge to develop products with textural properties that will be appreciated worldwide.

OBJECTIFS: Le Brésil et la France sont deux pays majeurs pour le marché de la beauté. Malgré cela, il y a peu d'étude interculturelle sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques entre ces deux populations. L'objectif de cette étude était donc de comparer l'analyse de formules cosmétiques par deux jurys, l'un brésilien et l'autre français, et d'établir leur préférence. METHODES: Pour cela, nous avons demandé à 100 consommateurs au total d'évaluer 4 produits cosmétiques différents. Le même protocole d'analyse sensorielle a été scrupuleusement suivi dans les deux pays. RESULTATS: Les évaluateurs ont été capables de percevoir des différences significatives entre les produits, et de façon répétable dans chaque pays. Chaque jury a noté la présence de filtres UV dans les formules et ces dernières ont été peu appréciées. Cependant, le jury brésilien était favorable à leur utilisation pour se protéger des UV, et ce malgré leurs propriétés sensorielles insatisfaisantes. CONCLUSION: Ce travail fournit des informations indispensables sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques par des populations différentes, ainsi que de nouvelles connaissances pour développer des formules avec des textures qui pourront être appréciées à travers le monde.

Optimization of cosmetic formulations development using Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology: physical, sensory and moisturizing properties

Considering the importance of an adequate composition of the formulation in the development of stable, safe and effective cosmetic products, experimental design techniques are tools that can optimize the formulation development process. The objective of this study was to develop topical formulations using the Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology and evaluate its physical, sensory and moisturizing properties. The experimental design used in the first step allowed to identify and to quantify the influence of raw materials, as well as the interaction between them. In the second step, the analysis identified the influence of soy lecithin, the phytantriol and capric acid triglyceride and caprylic on the consistency index, stickiness and greasiness and skin hydration. Cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate and cetyl phosphate 10EO and acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer showed effects in rheological parameters. The addition of soy lecithin had significant effects in terms of consistency index, stickiness, oiliness and immediate moisturizing effects. Phytantriol showed effects on increasing consistency index and oiliness sensation. Thus, the experimental design was shown to be an effective tool for research and development of cosmetics, since it allowed the assessment of the individual and interaction effects of raw materials in the responses: rheological parameters, sensory and clinical efficacy.

Interactions between UV filters and active substances in emulsion: Effect on microstructure, physicochemical and in-vivo properties.

The objective of the present study was to develop, characterize and evaluate the clinical efficacy of topical formulations containing or not active substances and UV-filters, separate and in combination. To this end a stable formulation was developed to which four aqueous active substances and four lipophilic UV-filters were added. The formulations were then submitted to microscopic characterization by light microscopy, to particle size measurement, and to macroscopic characterization by rheology and texture analysis. Finally, a clinical efficacy study was conducted to determine the effect of the formulations on the skin after application for 1 h. The formulation containing UV-filters showed a high polydisperse microstructure and a large amount of liquid crystals. The formulations containing active substances showed higher resistance to deformation, compression and penetration tests. Regarding spreadability, formulations containing UV filters alone or in combination with active substances showed higher resistance to spreading. This behavior was associated with greater clinical efficacy in terms of stratum corneum water content, protection of the skin barrier function and skin surface brightness. It was demonstrated that the efficacy of the formulation is mainly associated with its structure and the way it interacts with the skin surface. Finally, this study showed that the mixture of these ingredients for the development of multifunctional sunscreens improves the performance of the formulations.

Design and Characterization of Topical Formulations: Correlations Between Instrumental and Sensorial Measurements.

The interaction between cosmetic emulsions and the skin's surface is an important factor to consider in the development of topical formulations. Two important ingredients in cosmetic formulations are waxes and polymers. The physical and mechanical properties of formulations directly impact the interface skin-formulation. To evaluate this interaction, it is important to study the rheology, texture, and sensory properties. In this context, the aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of waxes and polymers on the rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensorial properties of topical formulations and the correlation between these parameters. The best combination of a wax and a polymer was determined by full factorial design of experiments and applied to develop eight formulations that were tested in relation to rheological, mechanical, and sensorial properties. The polymer helps with the spreadability of the formulation, and the wax had a strong influence on the parameters related to the structure of emulsions. A correlation between these parameters was observed. This way, it was possible to compare theoretical and practical data, except between the flow index and the work of shear. Finally, it was possible to predict sensorial aspects from rheological and texture parameters, making the formulation process easier and more integrated with all stages of the development of new topical formulations. Thus, the present study introduces a new proposal in the development of cosmetics.

Comportamento de homens e mulheres quanto ao consumo de cosméticos e a importância na indicação de produtos e adesão ao tratamento / Cosmetics consumption behaviour among men and women and the importance in products indication and treatment adherence

Introdução: Os cosméticos apresentam-se em destaque no comércio não só no Brasil, mas mundialmente. Há grande necessidade do conhecimento das motivações de compra dos consumidores para o desenvolvimento de produtos mais bem direcionados e melhora na adesão de tratamentos dermatológicos. Objetivo: Conhecer os hábitos de consumo cosmético e fornecer um link da área farmacêutica com a área médica. Métodos: Estudo observacional analítico do tipo transversal, realizado por meio de questionário. Resultados: A principal alteração na pele masculina é a oleosidade, nas mulheres além dessa há a preocupação com manchas. O consumo de produtos de higiene é unânime em ambos os sexos. As mulheres se mostram mais preocupadas com o tratamento e prevenção de danos solares. A maioria das mulheres utiliza produtos antiacne e maquiagens. Produtos para cabelo apresentam a mesma tendência de vendas tanto para homens quanto para mulheres, não sendo o mesmo observado entre os produtos para pele. Conclusões: Homens e mulheres apresentam diferentes motivações no momento de adquirir produtos cosméticos. A forma de relacionamento do consumidor com os produtos tem mudado expressivamente, e ele vem buscando expressar sua individualidade perante a sociedade. Isso reflete a necessidade do conhecimento médico de tais motivações a fim de melhorar a adesão dos pacientes ao tratamento.

Introduction: Cosmetics stands outs in commerce, not only in Brazil but also worldwide. There is great need for knowledge on buying motivations of consumers for the development of better-targeted products and improved adhesion to dermatological treatments. Objective: To know the cosmetic consumption habits and provide a link from the pharmaceutical with the medical area. Methods: An analytical observational study, cross-sectional, was conducted by questionnaire. Results: Main change in male skin is oiliness; in women, besides oiliness, there is concern with blemishes. The consumption of hygiene products is unanimous in both sexes. Women are more concerned with the treatment and prevention of sun damage. The vast majority of women use anti-acne products and makeup. Hair products have the same sales trend for both men and women, but this is not observed among products for skin. Conclusions: Men and women have different motivations when buying cosmetics. The way consumers relate with products has changed dramatically and they are seeking to express their individuality in society. This reflects a need for medical knowledge of such motivations in order to improve patients' adherence to treatment.