Skin penetration and dermal tolerability of acrylic nanocapsules: Influence of the surface charge and a chitosan gel used as vehicle.

For an improved understanding of the relevant particle features for cutaneous use, we studied the effect of the surface charge of acrylic nanocapsules (around 150nm) and the effect of a chitosan gel vehicle on the particle penetration into normal and stripped human skin ex vivo as well as local tolerability (cytotoxicity and irritancy). Rhodamin-tagged nanocapsules penetrated and remained in the stratum corneum. Penetration of cationic nanocapsules exceeded the penetration of anionic nanocapsules. When applied on stripped skin, however, the fluorescence was also recorded in the viable epidermis and dermis. Cationic surface charge and embedding the particles into chitosan gel favored access to deeper skin. Keratinocytes took up the nanocapsules rapidly. Cytotoxicity (viability<80%), following exposure for ≥24h, appears to be due to the surfactant polysorbate 80, used for nanocapsules stabilization. Uptake by fibroblasts was low and no cytotoxicity was observed. No irritant reactions were detected in the HET-CAM test. In conclusion, the surface charge and chitosan vehicle, as well as the skin barrier integrity, influence the skin penetration of acrylic nanocapsules. Particle localization in the intact stratum corneum of normal skin and good tolerability make the nanocapsules candidates for topical use on the skin, provided that the polymer wall allows the release of the active encapsulated substance.

Influence of nanoencapsulation on the sensory properties of cosmetic formulations containing lipoic acid.

Sensory analysis has become a valuable tool in qualifying consumer perception regarding cosmetic products. This study aims to explore the application of discriminative and affective consumers sensory analysis in evaluating the influence of nanoencapsulation on the sensory properties and rheological characteristics of a cosmetic formulation containing lipoic acid. The nanocapsules were prepared by the pre-formed polymer precipitation method. Semisolid formulations were prepared using a silicone emulsion system, and these pseudoplastic fluids were characterized using rheological methods. The panellists (n = 88) analysed the formulations with and without nanoencapsulated lipoic acid as paired comparisons within the discriminative and affective sensory analysis. In these measurements, spreadability, stickiness, oiliness and sulphur odour were evaluated. The panellists had no previous training in conducting these measurements. It was shown that nanotechnology can change some sensory characteristics of the formulations. The spreadability, stickiness and oiliness are the attributes for which the panellists noted differences with statistical significance. The spreadability difference could be due to the results found in the rheological profiles and consistency indexes between formulations. In the discriminative analysis, the panellists could not detect any noticeable differences in the sulphur odour or residual properties between samples, attributes that would influence whether consumers adhered to the selected treatment. Considering affective analysis, the consumers communicated that the formulation containing the nanoencapsulated lipoic acid, which presented less consistency, was preferred based on the reduction in immediate stickiness and residual sulphur odour. The free lipoic acid formulation was preferred in terms of residual oiliness and spreadability.

Innovative sunscreen formulation based on benzophenone-3-loaded chitosan-coated polymeric nanocapsules.

AIM: To evaluate the effect of cationic coating of polymeric nanocapsules in sunscreen formulations on the in vitro skin penetration of benzophenone-3. METHODS: Benzophenone-3-loaded nanocapsules were prepared by the interfacial deposition of poly(ε-caprolactone) and coated by using a chitosan solution. The nanoparticles were characterized and incorporated in hydrogels. The presence of nanoparticles in hydroxyethyl cellulose gels was observed by transmission electron microscopy and photon correlation spectroscopy. Penetration studies were carried out using Franz cells with porcine skin membranes. RESULTS: Benzophenone-3-loaded chitosan-coated nanocapsules presented a mean size of 202 ± 7 nm and positive zeta potential (+21 ± 1 mV), while these values for the uncoated nanocapsules were 175 ± 1 nm and -8 ± 1 mV. Penetration profiles showed that a higher amount of benzophenone-3 remained at the skin surface and a lower amount was found in the receptor compartment after the application of the formulation containing chitosan-coated nanocapsules compared to a formulation containing its free form. CONCLUSIONS: Hydrogel containing benzophenone-3 chitosan-coated nanocapsules represents an innovative formulation to overcome limitations of sunscreen daily use.