Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. OBJECTIVE: To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs. RESULTS: UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety. CONCLUSION: BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.

A Real-Life, International, Observational Study Demonstrating The Efficacy Of A Cosmetic Emulsion In The Supportive Care Of Mild-To-Moderate Facial Acne.

PURPOSE: Cosmetic emulsions are increasingly being used as supportive care products to alleviate the severe side effects and improve the clinical outcomes associated with conventional acne treatments. The objectives of this study were to determine, in a real-life setting, the global effectiveness of an emulsion with antiseborrheic, keratolytic and anti-Propionibacterium acnes activities as an adjunct to anti-acne therapy, and to evaluate the effect of the product on acne severity, noninflammatory and inflammatory lesions, hyperseborrhea, skin irritation and patient quality of life (QoL). Tolerance of the product was also assessed. PATIENTS AND METHODS: This international observational study involved 3960 patients aged 12 years and over with mild-to-moderate acne. The conventional acne prescriptions for these patients were either initiated at inclusion or were reviewed. Reviewed prescriptions may have been left unchanged, switched, or an addition made to ongoing treatment. At inclusion, participants were instructed to apply the cosmetic product daily for 2-3 months in combination with their medical acne treatment. RESULTS: After 2 to 3 months of use, the combined therapy resulted in moderate-to-large improvements in acne in over 75% of the patients whose acne prescriptions were left unchanged (n=859). The combination treatment led to an improvement in acne severity (-38.3% change in the mean investigator's global assessment score; p<0.0001) and QoL (-38.3% change in the mean Cardiff acne disability index score; p<0.0001), and reduced noninflammatory and superficial inflammatory lesions (-35.3% and -47.0%, respectively; p<0.0001), hyperseborrhoea (-40.6%; p<0.0001) and skin irritation (-37.2%; p<0.0001). Tolerance was very good. CONCLUSION: Use of the cosmetic emulsion combined with conventional acne therapy significantly improved clinical outcomes and patient QoL, and was very well tolerated. The combined therapy may have improved patient satisfaction, leading to improved patient adherence and higher rates of therapeutic success.

A new dermocosmetic containing retinaldehyde, delta-tocopherol glucoside and glycylglycine oleamide for managing naturally aged skin: results from in vitro to clinical studies.

INTRODUCTION: Natural aging of skin tissues, the addition of the cumulative action of the time and radiation exposure result in skin atrophy, wrinkles and degeneration of the extracellular matrix (ECM). The aim of the study was to investigate the beneficial effect of a combination containing retinaldehyde (RAL), delta-tocopherol glucoside (delta-TC) and glycylglycine ole-amide (GGO) and of a dermocosmetic containing the combination. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The protective effect of the combination was assessed through in vitro gene expression of ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated fibroblasts. A skin aging assay using UV light on ex vivo skin samples and a clinical study conducted in 36 women aged from 35 to 55 years with a minimum of level 4 to a maximum of level 6 on the crow's feet photoscale assessed the antiaging effect of the dermocosmetic. RESULTS: When added to UV-irradiated fibroblasts, the combination substantially improved the ECM in activating the elastin fiber production (fibrillin 2, fibulin 1 and 5 and lysyl oxidase-like 2) as well as that of proteins involved in the cellular ECM interactions (integrin b1, paxillin and actin a2). An ex vivo photodamaged human skin model showed that the dermocosmetic formulation containing the combination of the active ingredients protected the elastic network against UV-induced alterations including both elastin and fibrillin-rich fibers in the dermis. A daily application of the dermocosmetic for 2 months on naturally aged skin resulted in a statistically significant improvement (p<0.05) of visible signs of aging comprising crow's feet, wrinkles and periocular fine lines. Finally, the formulation was well tolerated. CONCLUSION: The dermocosmetic containing RAL, delta-TC and GGO provides a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women aged 35-55 years.

Analysis of correlations between patient-oriented SCORAD (PO-SCORAD) and other assessment scores of atopic dermatitis severity and quality of life.

OBJECTIVE: Self-assessment scores such as the Patient-Oriented Scoring of Atopic Dermatitis (PO-SCORAD) index being recommended by public health authorities for chronic disease management, we aimed at analysing correlations between PO-SCORAD and physician and patient assessment scores of atopic dermatitis (AD) severity and quality of life. METHODS: We perfomed an observational study conducted in 12 European countries in 4,222 atopic patients aged ≥1 month and prescribed Exomega® emollient cream. AD severity was measured by the SCORAD index, PO-SCORAD, Patient-Oriented Eczema Measure (POEM) and Self-Administered Eczema Area and Severity Index (SA-EASI) scales, and patient and family quality of life by the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and Dermatitis Family Questionnaire Impact (DFQI) scales, respectively. Their correlations were analysed. RESULTS: PO-SCORAD was the only self-assessment score to be highly correlated with the SCORAD index and POEM (r ≥ 0.70). It was also the best correlated with the DLQI (r = 0.67) and DFQI (r = 0.56). After a 5-week treatment, SCORAD index and PO-SCORAD severity scores had decreased significantly by 60 and 56% (p < 0.0001), and quality of life had improved. CONCLUSION: PO-SCORAD is better correlated with quality of life scales than other self-assessment scores.

Epidemiology of "fragile skin": results from a survey of different skin types.

BACKGROUND: Epidemiologic information regarding the prevalence of "fragile skin" in different adult populations is currently limited. The objective of the current survey was to assess the occurrence of perceived "fragile skin" across different skin types in the general adult population. METHODS: Individuals aged 15-65 years from five representative geographic regions (France, Spain, Sweden, Japan, and the US) were interviewed and grouped into the following skin types: Caucasian North skin (n=1,218), Caucasian South skin (n=1,695), Asian skin (n=1,500), and Black skin (n=500). The main survey question was "In your opinion, do you have fragile skin?" Concepts relating to the nature and appearance of an individual's skin were also evaluated. RESULTS: A total of 4,913 individuals were interviewed. Subjects in the Caucasian North, Caucasian South, Asian, and Black skin type groups responded positively to the question "In your opinion, do you have fragile skin?" in the following proportions: 24.44%, 29.71%, 52.67%, and 42.20%, respectively. With the exception of individuals in the Black skin group, "fragile skin" was prevalent in significantly more women than men (P<0.0001). Compared with other age categories, the prevalence of "fragile skin" was significantly higher in individuals aged 15-34 years (P<0.0001), regardless of skin type. In general, individuals reporting "fragile skin" were 2-3-fold more likely to respond positively to a series of questions relating to the nature and appearance of their skin. The prevalence of "fragile skin" was also higher in individuals who experienced dermatosis (skin lesions of any type) in the previous 12 months. CONCLUSION: Whilst these findings need to be confirmed through objective evaluation, the current survey demonstrated that "fragile skin" is perceived to occur in a substantial proportion of individuals from any given country, particularly in the age range of 15-34 years, regardless of skin type.

Efficacy and safety of a new topical keratolytic treatment for localized hyperkeratosis in adults.

BACKGROUND: Palmoplantar keratoderma (PPK) is a heterogeneous group of skin disorders characterized by symmetrical diffuse or patchy areas of hyperkeratosis on the palms and soles. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a topical keratolytic treatment for localized hyperkeratosis. METHODS: International, randomized, vehicle-controlled, double-blind, intra-individual comparative study. RESULTS: Clinical signs assessed by the investigator significantly improved in both group from baseline to day 10 and day 21 (P<0.001). Mean improvement was significantly more marked on the treated side than the control side (except pruritus) at day 10 for hyperkeratosis (-0.58 ± 0.59 versus -0.41 ± 0.51, P=0.009), desquamation (-0.62 ± 0.69 versus -0.47 ± 0.67, P=0.042) and dryness (-0.75 ± 0.67 versus -0.57 ± 0.67, P=0.014). At day 21, dryness (-1.16 ± 0.80 versus -1.00 ± 0.79, P=0.036) was significantly improved but only a trend for hyperkeratosis (-0.86 ± 0.76 versus -0.72 ± 0.72, P=0.158) and desquamation (-0.83 ± 0.85 versus -0.65 ± 0.85, P=0.057) was observed. Tolerance was considered to be good or very good in more than 92 percent patients. Both patients and investigators were satisfied in more than 84 percent of cases with the topical keratolytic treatment efficacy. Safety profile was highly satisfactory. CONCLUSION: This topical keratolytic treatment represents a valuable first-line option for mild to moderate hyperkeratosis.