L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits.

OBJECTIVE: Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. METHODS: In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles. RESULTS: In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. CONCLUSION: L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.

OBJECTIF: La peau du visage est sujet à des changements majeurs structuraux et fonctionnels dus à des facteurs intrinsèques et extrinsèques. Dans cette étude, nous montrons que l'acide aminé non-protéinogène L-4-thiazolylalanine (L4, Protinol) est une alternative intéressante pour une application topique. MÉTHODES: Des modèles 3D de peaux ont été utilisés pour mesurer les changements d'expressions géniques et protéiques de marqueurs clés du derme à partir d'échantillons traités avec L4 comparés à une condition contrôle. In vivo, après un traitement L4, le renouvellement cutané a été mesuré chez les volontaires et comparé à un traitement au rétinol. Des biopsies de peaux (n = 30) traitées soit à L4 soit au rétinol ont été isolées afin d'évaluer les changements au niveau du derme et de l'épiderme. Pour finir, une étude clinique (n = 28) a été menée pour évaluer l'efficacité de L4 par rapport à une formulation de base en utilisant différents paramètres de vieillissement au sein d'une population de femmes de 46 à 66 ans présentant des rides légères à modérées. RÉSULTATS: Les études in vitro sur tissues 3D ont montré des changements dans la matrice du derme avec une augmentation de la production d'acide hyaluronique et de procollagène I et une diminution d'expression de gènes pro-inflammatoires. Les études menées in vivo sur biopsies ont démontré que L4 et rétinol augmentaient indépendamment tous deux significativement l'épaisseur de l'épiderme et le remodelage du collagène par rapport à leur base seule. Pour finir, une peau plus ferme et plus lisse a été mesurée cliniquement après 28 jours de traitement L4 par rapport au véhicule et cela sans effets indésirables tels que rougeur et irritation. CONCLUSION: L4 est un ingrédient, innovant et multifonctionnel. Il offre une sérieuse alternative aux technologies actuellement disponibles dans les traitements contre le vieillissement de la peau ou le photodommage.

Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing creams for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: There is an increasing demand for facial skin rejuvenation. Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments may be one of the first steps to help prevent or treat facial signs of aging. This article discusses aesthetic skin care for facial skin rejuvenation, particularly data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment. METHODS: The authors convened a dermatology advisory board to discuss challenges and practices in using skincare for facial rejuvenation, combining their expert opinion and experience on facial rejuvenation with preclinical and clinical data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and a review of the literature. RESULTS: Preclinical and clinical studies on Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and two creams containing the ferment exhibit anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and healing properties. In preclinical studies, the ferment demonstrated collagen type I enhancing properties in ex vivo skin models, and skin cells treated with the ferment migrated faster than untreated cells in the in vitro study. In clinical studies measuring visible anti-inflammatory activity, the ferment alone and the ferment-containing products significantly decreased erythema, and in anti-aging studies, they improved visible skin aging parameters. Finally, in clinical studies on the stratum corneum, the two creams increased moisture levels and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reflecting healing by enhancing barrier strength and recovery. CONCLUSIONS: The Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and creams containing the ferment are effective skin care treatment products to decrease the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

Novel Rotational Combination Regimen of Skin Topicals Improves Facial Photoaging: Efficacy Demonstrated in Double-Blinded Clinical Trials and Laboratory Validation.

Topical antiaging products are often a first-line intervention to counter visible signs of facial photoaging, aiming for sustained cosmetic improvement. However, prolonged application of a single active topical compound was observed clinically to lead to a plateau effect in improving facial photoaging. In view of this, we set out to reduce this effect systematically using a multi-tiered approach with laboratory evidence and clinical trials. The objective of the study was to evaluate the effects of active topical ingredients applied either alone, in combination, or in a rotational manner on modulation of facial photoaging. The study methodology included in vitro, organotypic, and ex vivo skin explants; in vivo biopsy study; as well as clinical trials. We demonstrate for the first time that a pair of known antiaging ingredients applied rotationally, on human dermal fibroblasts, maximized pro-collagen I production. Indeed, rotational treatment with retinol and phytol/glycolic acid (PGA) resulted in better efficacy than application of each active ingredient alone as shown by explants and in vivo biopsy study, with penetration of active ingredients confirmed by Raman spectroscopy. Furthermore, two split-face, randomized, double-blinded clinical trials were conducted, one for 12 months to compare treated vs. untreated and the other for 6 months followed by a 2-month regression to compare treated vs. commercially marketed products. In both studies, rotational regimen showed superior results to its matching comparison as assessed by clinical grading and image analysis of crow's feet wrinkles. In conclusion, rotational regimen using retinol and PGA is effective in treating facial photoaging signs with long-lasting benefits.