In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing.

BACKGROUND: LR2412, a synthetic derivative of jasmonic acid, improved the reconstruction and homeostasis of our organotypic skin models. OBJECTIVES: The need for efficient 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photoaged skin, prompted us to investigate this new ingredient for its potential to correct signs of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo and to identify its mode of action. RESULTS: In vitro, penetration of LR2412 was evaluated using a Franz diffusion cell on excised human skin. Its exfoliating properties and interactions with the stratum corneum were studied using electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Experiments were performed on a human reconstructed skin model. In vivo, the effects of LR2412 on steroid-induced skin atrophy, a clinical skin ageing model, were assessed vs. vehicle. A patch test study evaluated its effect on deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis in clinically photoaged volunteers. A clinical study on the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles was conducted over 3 months of daily application. Penetration studies revealed that LR2412 reaches viable epidermis and superficial dermis, which are skin targets of anti-ageing actives. Within the upper layers of the stratum corneum LR2412 accelerates desquamation and improves the mechanical properties. At the dermal-epidermal junction of reconstructed skin, collagen IV, laminin-5 and fibrillin were stimulated. In vivo, LR2412 reversed steroid-induced atrophy. The patch test model confirms the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils, then an in use clinical study revealed that it reduced facial wrinkles. CONCLUSIONS: The in vitro and in vivo data demonstrate that based on its multiple interactions within human skin, LR2412 has potential to partially correct the signs of ageing in intrinsically and photoaged skin.

Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres.

Examination of very long hair (length > 2.4 m) using a large range of evaluation methods including physical, chemical, biochemical and microscopic techniques has enabled to attain a detailed understanding of natural ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Scrutinizing hair that has undergone little or no oxidative aggression--because of the absence of action of chemical agents such as bleaching or dyeing--from the root to the tip shows the deterioration process, which gradually takes place from the outside to the inside of the hair shaft: first, a progressive abrasion of the cuticle, whilst the cortex structure remains unaltered, is evidenced along a length of roughly 1 m onwards together with constant shine, hydrophobicity and friction characteristics. Further along the fibre, a significant damage to cuticle scales occurs, which correlates well with ceramides and 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) decline, and progressive decrease in keratin-associated protein content. Most physical descriptors of mechanical and optical properties decay significantly. This detailed description of natural ageing of human hair fibres by a fine analysis of hair components and physical parameters in relationship with cosmetic characteristics provides a time-dependent 'damage scale' of human hair, which may help in designing new targeted hair care formulations.

Ultrastructure of the human stratum corneum.

The ultrastructural study of the intercellular spaces of the human stratum corneum was based on transmission electron microscopy of thin vertical sections and freeze-fracture replicas, field emission scanning electron microscopy and immunofluorescence confocal laser scanning microscopy. The maturation of the corneosomes and their enzymatic degradation could be depicted at strategic interfaces. These sharp and rapid metamorphoses are now relatively well understood from a morphological point of view. But morphology raises a lot of unsolved physiological problems.

Persistence of both peripheral and non-peripheral corneodesmosomes in the upper stratum corneum of winter xerosis skin versus only peripheral in normal skin.

To understand the biochemical abnormalities that underlie the reduced desquamation observed in dry skin, we analyzed corneodesmosome degradation in normal and winter xerosis skin. Western blotting of total proteins from corneocytes obtained by varnish-strippings from the legs of 56 volunteers with normal (26) or xerotic (30) skin was performed using antibodies specific for (corneo)desmosome proteins. In the whole population, the amounts of desmoglein 1 and plakoglobin were found to be correlated, but were not related to the amounts of corneodesmosin. This suggests simultaneous proteolysis for the former proteins differing from that of corneodesmosin. Neither entire desmoplakins nor any proteolysis-derived fragments were detected. The amounts of corneodesmosin, desmoglein 1, and plakoglobin detected were found to be significantly higher in xerotic compared with normal skin extracts. Conventional and freeze-fracture electron microscopy showed the absence of nonperipheral corneodesmosomes in the upper stratum corneum of normal skin but the presence of a significant number of these structures in the same layer of winter xerosis skin. These results provide a more precise description of the proteolysis of corneodesmosome components in the upper cornified layer of the epidermis. They support previous studies demonstrating the importance of corneodesmosome degradation in desquamation and reveal that the nonperipheral corneodesmosomes, which are totally degraded during maturation of the stratum corneum in normal skin, persist in winter xerosis, probably leading to abnormal desquamation.

Cryo-techniques applied to stratum corneum with description of a new sample holder for cryo-scanning electron microscopy of freeze-fractured samples.

Stratum corneum structure greatly differs from that of the living epidermis and specific sample cryo-preparation techniques have to be used. Practical aspects of these cryo-techniques applied to stratum corneum are discussed. Emphasis is placed on scanning electron microscopy of cryo-fixed samples. A new sample holder designed for cryo-scanning electron microscopy of freeze-fractured stratum corneum is described.