The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background.

BACKGROUND: Of all ultraviolet (UV) radiations reaching the earth, UVA1 rays have a higher potential of penetrating and producing clinically harmful consequences. While UV radiations up to 370 nm are well-blocked by current sunscreens, a photoprotection gap remains for the UVA1 wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm. OBJECTIVE: This study was to assess under outdoor summer conditions the impact on pigmentation and skin ageing signs of a protection against UVA1 using methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) filter added to a reference SPF50 sunscreen, in comparison with the same sunscreen without the MCE filter. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This prospective randomized comparative intra-individual study was conducted in 113 women in Brazil and China. Subjects had their face and two forearms exposed twice-daily to a 1-h outdoor sunlight exposure over 8 weeks. Before exposure, the SPF50 sunscreen containing 3% MCE was applied on one half-face and one forearm and the same reference product without MCE on the other half-face and forearm. Primary study endpoint was skin colour changes (chromametry). Other endpoints included expert panel grading of pigmentation and facial skin ageing, and naïve panel assessment of facial skin radiance and homogeneity. RESULTS: After 8 weeks, the skin was darker on both forearms but the increase in sun-induced pigmentation was smaller with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen. Expert panel evaluations showed no change in severity scores for pigmentation and a decreased severity scores for facial skin ageing in areas protected with the SPF50/MCE product: severity scores in areas protected with the SPF50 alone were either increased (pigmentation) or unchanged (skin ageing). Naïve panel evaluations of skin radiance and homogeneity showed statistically significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product. CONCLUSION: Overall, this study demonstrates that a protection with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen significantly reduces pigmentation and ageing signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen.

Impact on facial skin aging signs of a 1-year standardized photoprotection over a classical skin care routine in skin phototypes II-VI individuals: A prospective randomized trial.

BACKGROUND: Data reflecting the impact of photoprotection on cutaneous aging are scarce and mostly limited to fair skin. OBJECTIVE: To assess the effectiveness of a photoprotective product in counteracting the photoaging process in different skin phototypes over 1 year compared against a classical routine. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two hundred and ninety Brazilian women aged 30-65 years, with skin phototype II-VI were equally randomized in two groups. Group 1 kept on their routine whereas Group 2 applied, twice daily, a photoprotective product (SPF 60, PPD = 24.1) replacing the one they routinely used. Volunteers reported the duration of their daily sun-exposure. Standardized photographs taken at D0 and D365 were analysed by 15 dermatologists to assess eight wrinkles and pigmentation signs. RESULTS: A global increase in severity was reported which was significant for Group 1. This increase was lower in Group 2 where only half the signs showed significant worsening. In Group 2 versus Group 1, the increase in forehead wrinkles, marionette lines, wrinkles created by ptosis and size of dark spot was significantly (p < 0.05) decreased by 30%-50%. CONCLUSION: Daily application of a high photoprotective product significantly decreases the progression of skin aging signs after 1 year in skin phototypes II-VI.

Artificial Intelligence analysis of over half a million European and Chinese women reveals striking differences in the facial skin ageing process.

BACKGROUND: Artificial Intelligence (A.I) and deep learning-based algorithms are increasingly being used in dermatology following the emergence of powerful smartphones with high-resolution cameras. OBJECTIVES: To use an A.I-based algorithm, validated by dermatologists, to compare the evolution of the skin ageing process among Chinese and European women. METHODS: Selfie images were taken by 465 587 European and 79 016 Chinese women ranging from 18 to 85 and 18 to 69 years old, respectively, without facial skin diseases and who had access to a smartphone with a high-resolution camera (≥4 Megapixels). The selfies were analysed by facial skin diagnostic using a smartphone application to grade the severity of 9 facial signs (including wrinkles, sagging, vascular, pigmentation signs, pores). RESULTS: Wrinkles/texture, ptosis and sagging increased linearly with age in European women compared to lower scores and more gradual increase in the younger age-classes in Chinese women. In Chinese women, pigmentation signs increased regularly between 18 and 40 years, plateaued between 40 and 60 years, then increased in the over 60s compared to lower scores and a slower more regular increase with age in European women. Vascularization signs increased steadily with age in European women compared to no significant change in Chinese women. CONCLUSIONS: Marked differences were observed in the skin ageing process between European and Chinese populations, both in the prevalence of each facial ageing sign and their kinetics. Automatic grading performed on selfies and analysed by A.I is a fast and confidential method for quantifying signs of facial ageing and identifying the main issues for each population and age-class, which is of practical interest, as it will allow the development of tailored prevention and therapeutic measures.

Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women: Comparison with women of other ethnic origins.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the changes in certain ocular signs because of age, among Mexican women and to compare these with those previously obtained on women of other ethnicities. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Photographs were taken of the faces of 203 Mexican women of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed us to focus and define nine ocular signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. Hence, the same protocol, previously used on 3240 women of four other ethnic origins (Caucasian: 600; Chinese: 990; Japanese: 1010; Indian: 300; African: 340), allowed us to compare the results obtained on Mexican women. RESULTS: The severity of crow's feet wrinkles for Mexican women shows a more intense progression with age than those of women from other ancestries. The lower eyelid wrinkles of Mexican women, that show weak or erratic changes with time, were however found to have higher and significant severity at a young age. Pigmentation disorders of their ocular area were found less pronounced as compared to those of Asian or Indian women. Eye bags were observed with similar slight changes in all five ancestries. CONCLUSION: The present work confirms that the clinical signs of age for the female eye area develop differently depending on the ethnic origins of the volunteer.

OBJECTIF: D'évaluer les variations avec l'âge de signes cliniques de la zone des yeux pour des femmes mexicaines et de les comparer avec des données précédemment acquises pour des femmes d'autres origines ethniques. MATERIEL ET METHODES: 203 femmes mexicaines, d'âges différents, ont été photographiées sous des conditions standardisées pour analyser neuf signes cliniques relatifs à la zone des yeux. Ces derniers couvrent des clusters cliniques de Rides/Texture, de Désordres pigmentaires ou de Ptose/relâchement et ont été évalués dans leurs sévérités respectives suivant les échelles éditées dans les Atlas cliniques du Vieillissement de référence par un groupe de 15experts et dermatologues. Ce même protocole a été utilisé précédemment sur 3240 femmes de 4 origines différentes (caucasiennes :600 ; chinoises : 990 ; japonaises : 1010 ; indiennes : 300 ; africaines : 340) et nous permet de pouvoir comparer ces résultats aux données obtenues sur les femmes mexicaines. RESULTATS: La sévérité des rides de la patte d'oie pour les femmes mexicaines présente une progression plus rapide avec l'âge que celles observées dans les autres ethnicités. Les rides de la paupière inférieure des femmes mexicaines, présentant des variations faibles ou erratiques avec l'âge, ont cependant été scorées avec une sévérité significativement supérieure pour les âges les plus jeunes. Les désordres pigmentaires pour la zone des yeux ont été trouvés comme moins prononcés en comparaison des femmes d'origine asiatique ou indienne. Les poches sous les yeux ont été observées avec des évolutions similaires avec l'âge quelle que soit l'origine ethnique. CONCLUSION: Ces travaux confirment que les signes cliniques de la zone des yeux présentent différentes évolutions avec l'âge en fonction des origines ethniques.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (i) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject. RESULTS: With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2-10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look. CONCLUSION: Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age.

OBJECTIF: De déterminer, pour des hommes chinois d'âges différents, les poids respectifs de certains signes faciaux entrant dans l'estimation de la perception des visages pour l'âge, l'air fatigué ou l'éclat. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: Les visages de 420 hommes chinois d'âges différents ont été photographiés dans des conditions standardisées. Ces clichés ont permis à 15 experts et dermatologistes d'évaluer 15 signes cliniques selon des échelles éditées dans les références Atlas Cliniques du Vieillissement. Ces signes faciaux sont regroupés dans 5 groupes (rides/texture, ptose/relâchement, désordres pigmentaires, désordres vasculaires, pores de la joue). Un panel de 80 consommatrices chinoises, d'un âge comparable, a été recruté pour donner leurs perceptions sur chaque visage complet photographié: d'abord en attribuant sur une échelle de 0 à 10 un score pour leurs perceptions de l'air fatigué et de l'aspect éclatant de santé, puis en estimant l'âge apparent du volontaire. RÉSULTATS: A l'exception des Désordres vasculaires, la sévérité des 4 groupes cliniques s'accroit avec l'âge selon des cinétiques différentes, parmi lesquelles la ptose/relâchement ou les désordres pigmentaires montrent la progression la plus constante et linéaire. Malgré une très importante et significative corrélation entre âge apparent et âge réel, une majorité des volontaires ont été jugés plus vieux que leurs âges réels, entre 2 et 10 ans. Les variations des signes faciaux (ou des groupes cliniques associés) ont été montrés significativement corrélées à l'âge apparent, à l'exception de la densité des taches pigmentaires et des pores de la joue. Bien que l'air fatigué et l'éclat sont logiquement observés comme anti-corrélés, c'est l'air fatigué qui se trouve le plus relié à l'âge apparent sur les 5 groupes cliniques. Les signes du contour des yeux apparaissent comme les plus corrélés à la perception de l'air fatigué. CONCLUSION: Parmi les groupes cliniques, les rides/texture et la ptose/relâchement sont les facteurs majeurs dans l'attribution d'un âge perçu pour les hommes chinois. L'air fatigué apparaît comme très fortement relié à l'âge apparent.

A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution.

OBJECTIVE: These were two folds: at first, to develop an automatic grading system specifically dedicated to some facial signs of men, similar to the one previously validated on women of different ethnic ancestry and second, to assess its potential in detecting and grading the possible impacts of a severe aerial urban pollution on some facial signs of Chinese men. METHODS: In both studies, selfie images were obtained from differently aged men. Nine facial signs were automatically graded through a specific A.I-based algorithm and clinically assessed by a panel of experts and dermatologists. Selfie pictures were taken from individual smartphones of variable optical properties. The first study, designed for developing an automatic grading system, involved three comparable cohorts of men from three different regional ancestries (African, Asian, Caucasian, 110 each) the selfie images of which were acquired under four different lighting conditions. As a second use case study, the facial signs of two cohorts of Chinese men (101 and 100, each), differently aged, regularly exposed to very different aerial urban pollution conditions (UP) were analysed by the same algorithm, selfies being taken under only one lighting condition. RESULTS: -The new automatic grading system of facial signs suits well to men, showing comparable results than that the one dedicated to women and provides data in close agreement with experts' assessments. -In both cases (expert's or automatic methodology), the accuracy of the scores appeared ethnic-dependent. -The applied case confirmed previous results obtained clinically, that is, that many facial signs were found of an increased severity among men exposed to a severe urban pollution, as compared to those living in a less polluted city. -In both studies, statistical agreements between the automatic grading system and expert's assessments were reached. In some facial signs, the automatic grading system seems offering a slightly better accuracy than the assessments made by the experts. CONCLUSION: Apart from some minor limitations, this A.I-based automatic grading system, free from human intervention, performed as well as the one previously developed in women, in close agreement with expert's assessments. In epidemiological studies, this system offers an easy, fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of male facial signs.

OBJECTIF: Il était double: (i) de développer d'un système automatique de scorage spécifique de plusieurs signes faciaux pour les hommes, similaire à celui précédemment validé sur des femmes de différentes origines. Et (ii), de jauger ses capacités pour la détection et l'évaluation des possibles impacts d'une pollution aérienne urbaine sévère sur le visage d'hommes chinois. MÉTHODES: Dans chacune des deux études des images de type selfies d'hommes de différents âges ont été obtenues. Neuf signes faciaux ont été automatiquement évalués grâce à un algorithme spécifique basé sur l'Intelligence Artificielle (IA) puis scorés cliniquement par un panel d'experts et de dermatologues. Des selfies ont été acquis à partir de téléphones portables individuels possédants des optiques et des résolutions différentes. L'étude N°1, conçue pour développer un système de scorage automatique du visage, a regroupé trois cohortes comparables d'hommes d'origines géographiques différentes (Africain, Asiatique et Caucasien, 110 volontaires par ethnies) et a requis l'acquisition sous 4 conditions d'éclairage. L'étude N°2, comme cas pratique, a nécessité le recrutement de deux cohortes d'hommes chinois d'âges différents (101 et 101 volontaires chacune) exposés régulièrement à de très différentes conditions de pollution aérienne urbaine et pour lesquels des selfies ont été enregistrés sous une seule condition d'éclairage. RÉSULTATS: -Le nouveau système de scorage automatique de signes faciaux des hommes performe de manière satisfaisante et montre des résultats comparables à celui précédemment conçu pour les femmes et donne des mesures très proches des évaluations cliniques des experts et dermatologues. -Dans les deux cas (experts ou mesures automatiques), l'acuité des scores apparaît dépendante à l'origine ethnique. -Le cas pratique confirme nos résultats précédents obtenues cliniquement, c'est à dire que de nombreux signes faciaux ont été trouvés d'amplitude plus importante pour les hommes exposés à une pollution aérienne urbaine sévère en comparaison de ceux vivant dans une ville moins polluée. -Les deux études ont démontré l'adéquation statistique entre le système automatique et les évaluations des experts et dermatologues. Pour certains signes, une certaine supériorité de système automatique a pu être observée vis-à-vis de l'évaluation des experts. CONCLUSION: A l'exception de quelques limitations mineures, le nouveau système de scorage automatique, basé sur l'IA, du visage des hommes - ne nécessitant aucune intervention humaine - fonctionne aussi bien que celui dédié aux femmes et toujours en parfaite adéquation avec les dermatologues. Pour des études épidémiologiques, ce système offre une approche rapide, aisée, confidentielle et d'un coût très abordable pour la détection et la quantification des signes faciaux masculins.

Clinical impacts of sun exposures on the faces and hands of Japanese women of different ages.

OBJECTIVE: To assess the impacts of sun exposures on some skin signs on the faces and hands of differently aged Japanese women, according to their distinct behaviours towards vis à vis sun exposure. METHODS: Two comparable cohorts of Japanese women (aged 18-83 years) were created according to their usual behaviour towards sun exposure i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 495) and sun-phobic (N = 516) and through their regular use(s) of a photo-protective product. Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 18 facial signs that were graded by 15 experts, using a referential skin ageing Atlas. From these two cohorts, two sub-cohorts (114 and 122 women) were created with regard to the similar clinical aspects of the dorsal side of their hands (Left vs. Right) that were further graded. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-ranges, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and photo-protection. RESULTS: Facial signs related to skin wrinkles/texture and pigmentary spots were found significantly more accentuated among non-sun-phobic women and show an early onset (20-30 years). Facial sagging and crow's feet wrinkles appear delayed (30-40 years). The severity of vascular disorders was found to be similar in the two cohorts. The absolute differences in the grading's of almost all signs were unsurprisingly found increased with advancing ages, illustrating the combination of chronological and photo-ageing processes. With regard to hands, differences in skin texture and pigmentary disorders are of a late onset (40-50 years) and were found much increased at older ages. The cutaneous signs of the hands of Japanese women can hardly be taken as reliable markers of their photo-ageing status. CONCLUSION: The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impact of sun exposures on the facial skin of Japanese women, pinpointing the fact that some facial signs are of an early onset. Results significantly confirm the importance of both sun avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures.

OBJECTIF: D'évaluer les impacts de l'exposition solaire sur plusieurs signes du visage et des mains de femmes Japonaises d'âge différents, selon leurs différents comportements vis-à-vis de l'exposition solaire. MÉTHODES: Deux cohortes comparables de femmes Japonaises (âgées de 18 à 83 ans) ont été créées selon leur comportement habituel vis à vis de l'exposition solaire, phobique (N = 516) ou non (N = 495) et selon leur utilisation(s) régulière(s) de produits photo-protecteurs. Des photographies standardisées du visage de face et latérales (45°) ont permis de se focaliser sur 18 signes cliniques du visage dont la sévérité a été quantifiée par 15 experts, utilisant un Atlas de référence du vieillissement cutané. De ces deux cohortes, deux sous-cohortes ont été extraites (114 et 122 femmes) par les aspects cliniques similaires de la face dorsale de leurs mains (Gauche vs. Droite) pour être ensuite quantifiées. Les différences absolues de chaque signe (non-phobiques moins phobiques), par tranches d'âges, ont été utilisées pour mieux déterminer l'impact des expositions solaires et des routines de photo-protection. RÉSULTATS: Les signes du visage liés à la texture cutanée/rides et aux taches pigmentaires ont été trouvés significativement aggravés chez les femmes non-phobiques de l'exposition solaire et d'apparition précoce (20-30 ans) tandis que la ptose du visage ou les rides de la patte d'oie apparaissent plus tardivement (30-40 ans). La sévérité des désordres vasculaires du visage a été trouvée similaire dans les deux cohortes. Les différences absolues dans la sévérité de la plupart des signes ont été logiquement trouvées accrues avec l'âge, illustrant la combinaison du vieillissement chronologique et de celui photo-induit. Concernant les mains, les différences dans la texture cutanée et les désordres pigmentaires apparaissent significativement tardives (40-50 ans) et augmentent à des âges plus avancés. Les signes cutanés des mains des femmes Japonaises ne semblent donc pas être des marqueurs fiables du vieillissement photo-induit. CONCLUSION: La présente étude illustre, pour la première fois, quelques spécificités des impacts de l'exposition solaire sur les signes faciaux de femmes Japonaises, pointant le fait que certains sont d'apparition précoce. Les résultats confirment de manière significative l'importance d'éviter les expositions solaires et de recourir à des mesures photo-protectrices.

An automatic procedure that grades some facial skin structural signs: agreements and validation with clinical assessments made by dermatologists.

OBJECTIVE: To confirm the robustness and validity of an automatic scoring system, algorithm-based, that grades the severity of nine facial signs through "selfies" smartphones pictures taken by European Caucasian women through dermatological assessments. METHODS: 157 Caucasian women from three countries (France, Germany, Spain), of different ages (20-75 years), took one "selfie" image by the frontal camera of their smartphones whereas local dermatologists photographed them with the back camera of the same smartphone. The same nine facial signs of these subjects were initially graded by these local dermatologists, using referential Skin Aging Atlases. All 314 "selfies" images were then further automatically analyzed by the algorithm. The severity of facial signs (wrinkles, pigmentation, ptosis, skin folds etc.) were statistically compared to the assessments made by the three dermatologists, taken as ground truth. RESULTS: Highly significant coefficients of correlation (P < 0.001) were found in the three cohorts between the grades provided by the system and those from dermatologists in live. The back camera - of a better resolution than the frontal one - seems affording slightly more significant correlations. However, although significantly correlated, the signs of vascular disorders and cheek skin pores present some disparities that are likely linked to the technical diversity of smartphones or self-shootings, leading to lower coefficients of correlations. CONCLUSION: This automatic scoring system offers a promising approach in the harmonization of Dermatological assessments of skin facial signs and their changes with age or the follow up of anti-aging treatments.

OBJECTIF: De confirmer la validité et la solidité d'un système de scorage automatique qui quantifie la sévérité de neuf signes du visage à partir de photographies de type "selfies" prises par des femmes Caucasiennes Européennes d'âge différents. MÉTHODES: 157 femmes Caucasiennes de trois pays différents (France, Allemagne, Espagne), d'âges différents (20-75 ans) ont pris un « selfie¼ avec la caméra frontale de leur téléphone tandis que le dermatologue local les a photographiées à l'aide de la caméra dorsale du même appareil. Les neuf signes faciaux ciblés par le système de scorage automatique ont été préalablement évalués par trois dermatologues locaux, utilisant des Atlas référentiels du vieillissement cutané. Les 314 images obtenues furent ensuite analysées automatiquement par l'algorithme. Les sévérités des neuf signes (rides, ptose, plis, pigmentation...) ont été ensuite comparées à celles établies par les dermatologues, considérées comme références absolues. RÉSULTATS: De très significatifs coefficients de corrélation (P < 0.001) ont été trouvés dans les trois cohortes entre les scores fournis par le système et ceux issus des évaluations des dermatologues des visages durant la visite des volontaires. La caméra du dos des smartphones - de meilleure résolution que la frontale - semble fournir de légèrement meilleures significativités. Cependant, bien que significativement corrélés, les signes des désordres vasculaires et des pores cutanés des joues montrent quelques disparités, dues possiblement à la diversité technique des smartphones ou celle des prises de vue, conduisant à de plus faibles coefficients de corrélation. CONCLUSION: Ce système de quantification automatique semble offrir une approche prometteuse dans l'harmonisation des évaluations dermatologiques des signes faciaux et leurs modifications liées à l'âge et/ou le suivi de traitements à vocation antivieillissement cutané.

Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men.

OBJECTIVE: To assess the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on the severities of some facial signs of Chinese men living in two close but differently polluted Chinese cities. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Standardized digital photographs were taken on 201 subjects from two cohorts of Chinese men (100 inhabitants of Baoding/very polluted and 101 inhabitants of Dalian/less polluted) differently aged (20-60 years) allowing a focus on 17 different facial signs. The latter were graded by 15 experts, using a clinical referential skin atlas. A questionnaire was filled by all subjects collecting their habits and uses with regard sun-exposures and skincare products. A naïve panel of 80 Chinese women, of comparable ages, attributed a perceived age to each subject under blind conditions. RESULTS: These confirm previous data obtained on Chinese women, with a similar protocol, i.e. that some facial signs show an increased severity in the more polluted city. However, changes in facial signs, with age, are of a different pattern according to gender. In Chinese men, most signs show early onsets with however low age-related changes, inversely to those observed in women, at the exception of vascular disorders. Habits of sun-exposures and uses of skincare product were found totally similar in both cohorts, reinforcing the specific role of UP in the progressive changes of facial signs. Similar to the results previously obtained on Chinese women, men living in a more polluted city were judged older than those living in a less polluted aerial environment. CONCLUSION: The present work confirms that a more severe UP increases the severities of some facial signs in Chinese men.

OBJECTIF: D'évaluer l'impact de la pollution aérienne urbaine chronique sur les sévérités de certains signes cliniques du visage d'hommes chinois résidant dans deux villes chinoises voisines mais différemment polluées. MATÉRIELS ET MÉTHODES: Des photos digitales standardisées ont été prises sur 201 sujets de deux cohortes d'hommes chinois (100 habitants de Baoding à l'environnement très pollué et 101 habitants de Dalian à l'environnement moins pollué), d'âges différents (20-60 ans), permettant un focus sur 17 signes faciaux différents. Ces derniers ont été scorés par 15 experts utilisant un atlas clinique de référence. Un panel naïf de 80 femmes Chinoises, d'âges comparables, a attribué un âge perçu à chaque sujet masculin dans des conditions anonymes. RÉSULTATS: Ils confirment les précédents résultats obtenus pour des femmes chinoises avec un protocole identique à savoir que les signes du visage présentent une sévérité accrue dans la ville la plus polluée. Cependant, ces modifications semblent montrer certaines spécificités liées au genre. Chez les hommes chinois, certains signes sont détectés plus précocement, mais montrent une plus lente évolution que pour les femmes chinoises, à l'exception des désordres vasculaires. Les habitudes d'exposition au soleil ou d'utilisation de produits de soin ont été trouvées identiques dans les deux cohortes, renforçant le rôle spécifique de la pollution aérienne urbaine dans les altérations progressives des signes faciaux. Comme pour les femmes chinoises, les hommes de la ville la plus polluée ont été jugés plus vieux que ceux vivant dans la ville la moins polluée. CONCLUSION: La présente étude confirme qu'une pollution aérienne urbaine chronique plus importante accroit la sévérité de quelques signes du visage d'hommes chinois.

Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows: variations with ethnicities and age.

OBJECTIVE: To explore some morphological features of the eyebrows of women of different ethnicities and ages. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Standard digital photographs of 3600 women of six ethnicities, aged 18-84 years, previously used to describe the morphology of the human eyes, allowed us to focus on their eyebrows, as supplementary and opportunistic study. Photographs of both eyebrows were analysed partly by manual markings and automatically by dedicated algorithms. Six parameters of the eyebrows were recorded: length, waviness/curvature, oblique aspect, size (vertical height), total surface and hair coverage (density). RESULTS: Most criteria present ethnic specificities. These are: length (longer eyebrows of Indian, shorter among African women); waviness where the straighter eyebrows were found among Chinese and Japanese women. In general, the longer the eyebrows, the higher their waviness and vice versa. Thickness (or height) of the eyebrows presents a wide ethnic variability as well as hair coverage, where African women present the lower hair density, inversely to Indian women. The same holds true with regard to the total surface of eyebrows, of a large variability (by about four times). Some criteria appear more individually dependent than ethnic-specific, such as the oblique positioning, at the exception of Indian women with less oblique eyebrows. In all subjects, the criteria of both eyebrows (Left vs. Right) were found to be highly correlated (r > 0.7, P < 0.001). CONCLUSION: The present investigation brings new findings on a scarcely studied facial element, the morphologic features of which are, for most, ethnic-dependent. As applied consequences, the results of the present work pave the road to better adapt adorning procedures of the eyebrows vis-à-vis ethnic and age specificities.

OBJECTIF: D'explorer quelques critères morphologiques des sourcils de femmes de 6 ethnies, d'âges différents (18-84 ans). MÉTHODES: Des photographies digitales standards de 3600 femmes de 6 ethnies, âgées de 18 à 84 ans, préalablement utilisées pour décrire les morphologies des yeux, ont été mises à profit pour une analyse morphologique dédiée aux sourcils. Les images ont été analysées pour partie par marquages manuels, pour partie par des algorithmes de reconnaissance automatique. Six critères ont été analysés: longueur, ondulation, aspect oblique, taille (hauteur), surface totale et couverture pilaire (densité des poils). RÉSULTATS: Chez tous les sujets, les critères des deux sourcils (Gauche et Droit) ont été observés comme fortement corrélés, et présentent des spécificités ethniques pour la plupart. Par exemple, la longueur, i.e. plus élevée chez les femmes Indiennes, plus faibles chez les femmes Africaines, l'ondulation où les sourcils les plus droits sont trouvées chez les femmes Chinoises et Japonaises. En général, les plus longs sourcils présentent une plus forte ondulation et vice versa. Leur hauteur maximale présente aussi une forte dépendance ethnique tout comme la couverture pilaire où les femmes Africaines montrent une plus faible densité, à l'inverse des femmes Indiennes. Un même résultat est obtenu pour la surface totale qui présente de fortes variations inter-ethniques, allant du simple au quadruple. D'autres paramètres semblent plus individuels qu'ethniques tel que l'aspect oblique, à l'exception des femmes Indiennes qui présentent les sourcils les moins obliques. CONCLUSION: Cette investigation apporte quelques nouveaux résultats sur un sujet très peu étudié, dont la morphologie est, sur de nombreux aspects, ethnique-dépendante. Ces résultats offrent alors, en terme d'application, une approche plus adaptée des procédures d'ornementation des sourcils vis à vis des spécificités ethniques et de l'âge.

Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydration and trans-epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences.

OBJECTIVE: To explore the relationship between skin surface hydration and Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) when simultaneously measured. METHODS: Six circular skin areas of the forearms (3 per forearm, 3 cm in diameter) of 12 Caucasian women were used as models. 4 prototypes of formulae of different compositions containing glycerol at different concentrations 7%, 10% and 40% were used as models of hydrating products. One formula (glycerol-free) was used as control vehicle. Standardized applications of formulae (2 mg/cm2 ) were performed on 5 skin sites chosen at random, the other being left as bare/control. A recently marketed instrumental device that records the skin surface hydration and TEWL on a small skin area in a simultaneous manner was used. Measurements were carried out at T0 (pre-application), at 1 h (T1) and 5 h (T5) post applications on two close sites within the 6 defined areas of both forearms. RESULTS: The new instrumental device allowed to clearly differentiate the 5 formulae (i.e. 7% vs. 10%) with regard the dose effect brought by glycerol (7%, 10%, 40%) and to record their lingering effects at T1 and T5. Both parameters were found significantly and negatively correlated, i.e. the higher the skin hydration, the lower the TEWL. The 40% concentration of glycerol, that leads to the highest skin hydration, brings a drop in the TEWL by about a two-fold factor. Skin hydration of bare skin and control/vehicle sites showed minor and non-significant changes along 5 h. Instead, the control/ vehicle slowed down the TEWL to a slight extent. CONCLUSION: The use of this new instrumental device shed a new light on the mutual and inverse relationships between skin hydration and TEWL. Results suggest that, at high concentration, glycerol leads to largely increase the water content of both epidermal and dermal compartments, possibly leading to structural changes in the skin relief.

OBJECTIF: D'explorer les relations mutuelles entre l'hydratation cutanée et la perte insensible en eau (PIE) quand elles sont mesurées simultanément. MÉTHODES: 6 zones circulaires des avant-bras (3 par zone, diamètre 3 cm) de 12 femmes Caucasiennes ont été utilisées comme modèles. 4 prototypes de formules, de compositions différentes contenant du glycérol à différentes concentrations (7%, 10%, 40%) furent réalisés et utilisés comme modèles de produits hydratants. Une formule sans glycérol fut utilisée en tant que contrôle. Des applications standardisées (2 mg/cm2 ) ont été effectuées sur 5 zones de façon aléatoire, la sixième restant nue en tant que contrôle. Un appareil nomade récemment disponible sur le marché qui enregistre l'hydratation et la PIE simultanément sur une petite surface cutanée a été utilisé. Deux mesures à deux endroits voisins de chaque zone ont été conduites à T0 (avant applications), 1 heure (T1) et 5 heures (T5) après. RÉSULTATS: Ce nouvel instrument permet de clairement différencier les 5 formules dans l'effet dose apporté par le glycérol (0, 7%, 10%, 40%) et de suivre leur rémanence dans le temps (T5 vs. T1). Les deux paramètres ont été trouvés négativement corrélés de manière significative, c'est-à-dire qu'une plus forte hydratation correspondant à une plus faible PIE. La formule à 40% de glycérol, qui a conduit à la plus forte hydratation, a ainsi entrainé une chute de la PIE d'environ 50%. La peau nue comme celle de la formule contrôle n'ont pas conduit à de modifications notables et significatives de l'hydratation. La formule contrôle a conduit à une légère chute de la PIE. CONCLUSION: L'utilisation de ce nouvel instrument semble apporter un éclairage nouveau sur les relations mutuelles (et inverses) entre l'hydratation cutanée et la PIE. Les résultats suggèrent qu'à forte concentration, le glycérol conduit à un fort accroissement de la teneur en eau de l'épiderme et du derme, avec de possibles conséquences structurelles du relief cutané.

Assessing changes in some facial signs of fatigue in Chinese women, induced by a single working day.

BACKGROUND: The impacts of physical fatigue upon some facial signs, induced by a whole day work, have been previously described on Caucasian women. This study aimed at assessing those possibly experienced by Chinese working women under comparable conditions. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Standard photographs of 60 Chinese women working in the same company (aged 20-40 years) were taken at three occasions during their working day (just before, at 4 and 8 h). Focusing on facial signs allowed a panel of experts to grade their respective severities, helped by a referential atlas dedicated to Asian skin. A naïve panel, comprising 64 Chinese women (aged 20-60 years) graded, through an analogic 0-10 scale, the global facial aspect of each subject, particularly its tired-look and dullness and estimated the age of each subject (perceived age). Paired-comparisons in blind and random modes (T0/T4, T4/T8, T0/T8) allowed this naive panel to assess the subjects with a younger/older look, a dullest aspect. RESULTS: A daily work induces, in Chinese women, changes in some facial signs (Nasolabial, Periorbital and Inter-ocular wrinkles, Cheek skin pores). The latter appear more marked between T0 and T4 than between T4 and T8. As compared to those observed among Caucasian women, these changes, although subtle, are of a higher amplitude and concern different facial signs. The naïve panel allowed to describe an increase in the tired look and dullness along the day, more so among the older group (31-40 years), together with an increased perceived age. Tired look, dullness and perceived age appear strongly linked. CONCLUSION: Despite some possible differences in working conditions, some facial signs of Chinese women seem more affected by a fatigue induced by a working day in urban environment, than those of Caucasian women in similar conditions.

CONTEXTE: Les impacts de la fatigue physique, induite par une journée de travail, sur quelques signes faciaux ont été étudiés chez des femmes Caucasiennes. L'objectif de la présente étude visait à déterminer ceux éprouvés par des femmes Chinoises dans des conditions comparables. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: Des photographies standardisées de 60 femmes Chinoises (20-40 ans), travaillant dans la même entreprise, ont été prises durant leur journée de travail, à trois occasions (matin avant, 4 heures et 8 heures après). Ces photos ont permis de focaliser sur certains signes faciaux dont les sévérités ont alors été scorées, selon un Atlas référentiel de la peau Asiatique. Un panel naïf de 64 femmes Chinoises (20-60 ans) a utilisé une échelle analogique (0-10) pour évaluer l'aspect général du visage, particulièrement sur son aspect fatigué, l'aspect terne de son teint ou donner un âge apparent à chaque sujet. Les comparaisons des photographies par tests par paires, en aveugle et al.éatoire, (T0/T4, T4/T8, T0/T8) demandaient au panel naïf de déterminer quelle photographie montrait un aspect plus jeune ou plus âgé ou un teint plus ou moins terne. RÉSULTATS: Une journée de travail induit chez des femmes Chinoises des modifications de certains signes faciaux (Sillon nasogénien, rides inter-oculaires et péri-orbitales, pores visibles de la joue). Ces derniers apparaissent plus marqués entre T0 et T4 que T4 et T8. Comparés à ceux observés chez des femmes Caucasiennes, ces modifications, bien que subtiles, sont de plus grande ampleur et concernent des signes différents. Le panel naïf a décrit une augmentation de l'aspect fatigué et terne du teint le long de la journée, plus marqués encore chez les femmes les plus âgées (31-45 ans). De plus, teint terne, aspect fatigué et âge apparent ont été trouvés étroitement liés. CONCLUSION: En dépit de quelques possibles différentes conditions de travail, certains signes faciaux des femmes Chinoises semblent plus affectés par une fatigue induite par une journée de travail en milieu urbain que des femmes Caucasiennes dans des conditions comparables.

Evaluating age-related changes of some facial signs among men of four different ethnic groups.

BACKGROUND: The alterations of some facial characteristics, with age, in men of different ethnic groups are a scarcely studied topic. OBJECTIVE: To illustrate and grade, among men of four different ethnic descents (Asians, African-Americans, Caucasians, Indians), aged 18-80 year, the changes in the severity of some facial signs occurring with age. METHODS: Digital Photographs (full face, profile, 45°) of 1058 subjects were taken under standard conditions of lightning. These allowed us to zoom in on 15-20 different facial signs on all subjects. Their observations by 15 trained experts, under calibrated screens, allowed these signs to be graded, with the help of four referential skin Atlases, specific to the gender and ethnic groups studied. RESULTS: Most facial signs show a rather regular increase with age, with different kinetics according to the ethnic group. The major changes, in all four ethnic groups, mostly concern skin structural alterations (wrinkles, neck sagging or texture). The changes in the severity of some wrinkles (forehead, inter-ocular…) may be viewed as ethnic signatures. The modifications in pigmentation disorders seem more closely linked to the constitutive skin pigmentation (photo-types), among which pigmentary spots are confirmed as a more specific Asian trait. CONCLUSION: Men of four different ethnic origins present different and ethnic-related facial alterations with increasing age, of different amplitudes.

A severe chronic outdoor urban pollution alters some facial aging signs in Chinese women. A tale of two cities.

BACKGROUND: The impact of a chronic outdoor urban pollution on skin aging-related facial signs is a poorly referenced topic. OBJECTIVE: To assess, through visual grading and referential photographic atlas, possible differences in some facial signs between Chinese women, of comparable ages, living in two close cities very differently exposed to urban pollution. METHODS: The faces of two cohorts of 204 Chinese women (2 × 102) of same age-groups (25-45 years), living in Baoding (a highly polluted city) and Dalian (a less polluted city), for at least 15 years, have been analyzed. Standardized facial photographs (full face and lateral views) were taken and examined, focusing on 26 signs that belong to 3 different clusters (wrinkles and skin texture, pigmentation disorders, and skin pores/skin redness). The severity of each facial sign was graded by 15 trained experts with the help of an Asian skin referential photographic Atlas that illustrates various scales of clinical severity (0-5, 0-8…). In addition, a naïve panel of 80 Chinese non-expert women was asked, while viewing all photographs, to answer to 4 questions regarding skin radiance, dullness, healthy appearance, and perceived age. RESULTS: The increased severity of almost all facial signs was mostly observed in the older group (40-45 years) living in Baoding. In particular, the clinical severity of eight facial signs (five related to skin structure and three related to pigmentation) was found strongly and significantly enhanced by a regular exposure to a severe chronic urban pollution. The naïve panel judged the facial appearance of women from Baoding less radiant, duller, less healthy, and found them older than their Dalian counterparts. The monthly-recorded weather conditions (UV radiance, temperature, wind, precipitations) of the two cities (of same latitude) show that these only differ by their very different Air Quality Indexes (AQI). The daily life conditions of all women (UV exposure, use of cosmetic facial products, intake of sweet or spicy food…) were found similar in all age-groups. CONCLUSION: As compared to a moderately polluted region, a severe chronic outdoor urban pollution favors the aggravation of some facial signs in Chinese women. In short, a highly polluted environment can be viewed as an additional accelerating factor of the skin aging process, when compared to a moderately polluted area.

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer® and Corneometer® , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 h), post application of a highly hydrating product. The recorded values (left and right half faces) were further gathered and digitally positioned on a virtual feminine face and their intensity was illustrated through a colored white (lower values)-blue (higher values) scale. RESULTS: The reconstitution of the mapping of the two measured parameters (from the left and right sides of different subjects), shows a perfect symmetry vis à vis the nose axis. However, both parameters present slightly variable but significant values along the human face. Sites from the temple are less elastic than chin or forehead. The upper and lower parts of the forehead show slight disparities in their elasticity values. Cheeks are significantly less prone at retaining their imparted hydration status (lost 2 h after application of a hydrating product) as compared to sub-ocular regions or chin that retain their hydration up to 24 h. Attempts to establish a mutual relationship between the two skin properties unsurprisingly failed. CONCLUSION: The two studied skin properties show a slight but highly symmetric disparity along the entire human face.

In vivo evaluation of some biophysical parameters of the facial skin of Indian subjects living in Mumbai. Part II: Variability with age and gender.

BACKGROUND: A previously published work explored the diversity of some biophysical parameters (colour, elasticity, sebum production, skin microrelief, etc.) of the skin of 1204 Indian women, differently aged, living in four Indian cities (Chennai, Delhi, Kolkata and Mumbai). The present work aimed at completing such research by focusing on possible gender-related differences in the same skin parameters, between Indian men and women living in the same Indian city (Mumbai). METHODS: A total of 297 Indian men, differently aged (18-70y), were recruited in Mumbai, completing the panel of 303 women who were previously recruited in this same city. The same instrumental measurements of facial skin colour and its homogeneity, its mechanical properties, the sebum production, skin pores size, skin relief, etc. as in the previous work, were conducted. RESULTS: Overall, the facial skin colour shows a darker complexion in men as compared to women, on forehead, ocular region, lips, chin and cheek. The skin colour unevenness, which increases with age, was found higher in men, as compared to women. At comparable age, women and men present a same density of skin pores, whereas those of men appear larger, up to 55y. The deepness of Crow's feet wrinkles does not significantly differ between genders. A lesser extensibility was found on the cheeks of men. In men, the sebum production was found significantly higher than that of women at ages above 40y. CONCLUSIONS: This work indicates some commonly shared age-related skin features between women and men from Mumbai, despite slight different characteristics such as skin pigmentation, forehead/cheek colour contrast, mechanical properties and sebum production.

Morphological criteria of feminine upper eyelashes, quantified by a new semi-automatized image analysis: Application to the objective assessment of mascaras.

BACKGROUND: The wide diversity of feminine eyelashes in shape, length, and curvature makes it a complex domain that remains to be quantified in vivo, together with their changes brought by application of mascaras that are visually assessed by women themselves or make-up experts. METHODS: A dedicated software was developed to semi-automatically extract and quantify, from digital images (frontal and lateral pictures), the major parameters of feminine eyelashes of Mexican and Caucasian women and to record the changes brought by the applications of various mascaras and their brushes, being self or professionally applied. RESULTS: The diversity of feminine eyelashes appears as a major influencing factor in the application of mascaras and their related results. Eight marketed mascaras and their respective brushes were tested and their quantitative profiles, in terms of coverage, morphology, or curvature were assessed. Standard applications by trained aestheticians led to higher and more homogeneous deposits of mascara, as compared to those resulting from self-applications. CONCLUSION: The developed software appears a precious tool for both quantifying the major characteristics of eyelashes and assessing the making-up results brought by mascaras and their associated brushes.

In vivo evaluation of some biophysical parameters of the facial skin of Indian women. Part I: variability with age and geographical locations.

BACKGROUND: India is a large country (a subcontinent) of about 3.3 million km2 that covers large ranges in latitude and longitude. The last Indian census counted about 1.21 billion of inhabitants of many origins, creating a vast human diversity and skin types, the variability of which having been previously established. The present study aimed at deepening this knowledge through a set of biophysical measurements to describe, along the skin ageing process, the specificities of various Indian subjects living in different geographical locations. METHODS: A total of 1204 women, aged 18-84 years, of all socio-economic status, were recruited in four Indian cities (Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai and Delhi). Measurements of face skin colour properties, elastic properties, sebum production, skin pores and microrelief roughness were performed. RESULTS: With regard skin colour, this study indicates, with age, a darkening of very low amplitude that leads to an increased skin colour heterogeneity. In all subjects, at all ages, the ocular region (dark circles) presents a much darker pigmentation than the cheeks, creating a contrast that appears constant at all ages. In addition to an increased skin colour heterogeneity, a progressive alteration of the skin surface relief, increased sizes of skin pores, a loss of skin elasticity and a drop in sebum production, post-menopause, are observed. CONCLUSIONS: This study confirms, in Indian women, some skin ageing measurements found on women from other ethnic groups (i.e. sebum, firmness, wrinkles and pores size) and also identifies some Indian specificities: a high and constant contrast between the ocular region and the cheek colour, associated to a very slow darkening effect along the lifespan.

Concealing a shiny facial skin appearance by an Aerogel-based formula. In vitro and in vivo studies.

OBJECTIVE: To explore, in vitro and in vivo, the potential interest of an Aerogel-based formula, in concealing a naturally shiny facial skin. METHODS: In vitro, various formulae and ingredients were applied as a thin film onto contrast plates and studied through measuring the shine induced following pump spraying of a mixture of oleic acid and mineral water as a sebum/sweat mix model. In such a test, an Aerogel ingredient led to very positive results. In vivo, two different formulae with various concentrations of Aerogel were randomly tested on half side of the face vs. bare side of Chinese women, under some provocative environmental conditions, known to enhance facial shine. These conditions comprised a normal activity under a hot and highly humid summer time followed - or not - by a hamam session. Both studies included comparative evaluations using a half-face procedure (treated/untreated or vehicle). In the first case, evaluations were quantitatively carried out, whereas the second one was based on a quantitative self-evaluations from standardized full-face photographs RESULTS: In vitro, the tested Aerogel, incorporated at 1% or 2% concentration in a common O/W cosmetic emulsion, shows an immediate light scattering effect, thereby masking shine. Such effect appears of much higher amplitude than that of two other tested particulate ingredients (Talc and Perlite). A noticeable remanence of anti-shine effect was confirmed in vivo in extreme conditions. The latter was self-perceived by all participants in the second study. This result is likely related to the super hydrophobic behaviour of the Aerogel. CONCLUSION: As cosmetic ingredient, this new Aerogel appears as a highly promising ingredient for concealing the facial skin shine, a source of complaint from many consumers living in hot and humid regions.

Influences of age, ethnic group, and skin sites on a provisory skin marking, experimentally induced, in vivo.

BACKGROUND: To study capacity of skin to being imprinted by a marking head rapidly applied (10 seconds) onto the skin under a standardized pressure (15 kPa). MATERIAL AND METHODS: Referential photographs of skin markings, resulting from different times of application serve at grading the extent of skin imprints. The imprinting tool, equipped with 5 linear bulbs of different sizes but same thickness (1 mm), was applied onto the cheeks of 641 women of different ages (18-80 years) of 3 different ethnic groups. In the cohort of 198 Caucasian women, the marking head was pressed onto 3 different sites (outer arm, cheek, and dorsal forearm) and the kinetics of skin recovery from cheek marking was recorded on a smaller and younger part of this Caucasian cohort, ie, 141 Caucasian women, aged 18-59 years. RESULTS: The recorded intensities of skin markings were found highly correlated with age in all 3 studied ethnic groups (Chinese, African-American, and Caucasian). Caucasian women seem more sensitive to the marking and the kinetics of recovery from such imprint was found highly dependent from its intensity, ie, the higher the grades, the slower the recovery. In Caucasian women, intensities were different between skin sites, where arm showed higher resistance to marking. Possible impact of photo-aging on the decreased skin resistance to such provoked deformation is likely of minor amplitude, as compared to the one induced by chronological aging. CONCLUSION: This method offers a new vision on skin aging, in its variable response to a standard deformation that appears mostly driven by chronological aging.