Skin dark spot mapping and evaluation of brightening product efficacy using Line-field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC-OCT).

BACKGROUND: Facial dark spots remain a significant challenge for the cosmetic industry, in terms of providing effective treatment. Using Line-field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC-OCT), we investigated the internal structural features of photo-aging spot areas and evaluated the efficacy of a skin-brightening cosmetic product. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Twenty-six Asian female volunteers, aged between 29 and 65 years, applied a cosmetic product on their entire face twice a day for 2 months. LC-OCT was used to evaluate the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) undulation and the volume density of melanin in the epidermis at D0 and D56. Skin brightening and redness were also assessed by photography (SkinCam). RESULTS: Using LC-OCT technology, various microscopic dark spot morphologies, spanning from minimally deformed DEJ to complex DEJ patterns, were identified. Dark spots characterized by slight deformities in the DEJ were predominantly observed in the youngest age group, while older volunteers displayed a wavier pattern. Furthermore, a total of 44 spots were monitored to evaluate the brightening product efficacy. A statistically significant reduction in melanin volumetric density of 7.3% in the spots and 12.3% in their surrounding area was observed after 56 days of product application. In line with these results, an analysis of color parameters using SkinCam reveals a significant increase in brightening and decrease in redness in both pigmented spots and the surrounding skin following application. CONCLUSIONS: LC-OCT proves to be a valuable tool for in-depth dark spots characterization and assessment of skin brightening products, enabling various applications in the field of dermatological sciences.

Senescent melanocytes driven by glycolytic changes are characterized by melanosome transport dysfunction.

Rationale: Senescent melanocytes accumulate in photoaged skin and are closely related to skin aging. A better understanding of the molecular characteristics of senescent melanocytes may be the key to controlling skin aging. Methods: We have developed an in vitro model of senescence in melanocytes using UV irradiation and investigated the functional characteristics and molecular mechanisms underlying senescence in UV-irradiated melanocytes. Results: We have highlighted that in vitro senescent melanocytes are characterized by melanosome transport dysfunction resulting in melanin accumulation. The defective melanosome transport was confirmed with the ultrastructural characterization of both in vitro UV-induced senescent melanocytes and in vivo melanocytes of hypopigmented aging skin. A single-cell transcriptomic analysis revealed that the glycolytic metabolism pathway appeared to be significantly upregulated in most senescent phenotypes. Furthermore, the inhibition of glycolysis by pharmacological compounds mitigates the pro-aging effects of melanocytes senescence, suggesting that alterations in cellular glucose metabolism act as a driving force for senescence in melanocytes. Conclusion: These results demonstrate that senescent melanocytes are characterized by glycolytic metabolism changes and a defective melanosome transport process, which may be related to impaired mitochondrial function, highlighting the importance of metabolic reprogramming in regulating melanocyte senescence.

Skin microbiome attributes associate with biophysical skin ageing.

Two major arms of skin ageing are changes in the skin's biophysical conditions and alterations in the skin microbiome. This work partitioned both arms to study their interaction in detail. Leveraging the resolution provided by shotgun metagenomics, we explored how skin microbial species, strains and gene content interact with the biophysical traits of the skin during ageing. With a dataset well-controlled for confounding factors, we found that skin biophysical traits, especially the collagen diffusion coefficient, are associated with the composition and the functional potential of the skin microbiome, including the abundance of bacterial strains found in nosocomial infections and the abundance of antibiotic resistance genes. Our findings reveal important associations between skin biophysical features and ageing-related changes in the skin microbiome and generate testable hypotheses for the mechanisms of such associations.

Line-field confocal optical coherence tomography as a tool for three-dimensional in vivo quantification of healthy epidermis: A pilot study.

Epidermal three-dimensional (3D) topography/quantification has not been completely characterized yet. The recently developed line-field confocal optical coherence tomography (LC-OCT) provides real-time, high-resolution, in-vivo 3D imaging of the skin. This pilot study aimed at quantifying epidermal metrics (epidermal thicknesses, dermal-epidermal junction [DEJ] undulation and keratinocyte number/shape/size) using 3D LC-OCT. For each study participant (8 female, skin-type-II, younger/older volunteers), seven body sites were imaged with LC-OCT. Epidermal metrics were calculated by segmentations and measurements assisted by artificial intelligence (AI) when appropriate. Thicknesses of epidermis/SC, DEJ undulation and keratinocyte nuclei volume varied across body sites. Evidence of keratinocyte maturation was observed in vivo: keratinocyte nuclei being small/spherical near the DEJ and flatter/elliptical near the skin surface. Skin microanatomy can be quantified by combining LC-OCT and AI. This technology could be highly relevant to understand aging processes and conditions linked to epidermal disorders. Future clinical/research applications are to be expected in this scenario.

Modulation of Diacylglycerol-Induced Melanogenesis in Human Melanoma and Primary Melanocytes: Role of Stress Chaperone Mortalin.

Skin color/pigmentation is regulated through melanogenesis process in specialized melanin-producing cells, melanocytes, involving multiple signaling pathways. It is highly influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors such as oxidative, ultraviolet radiations and other environmental stress conditions. Besides determining the color, it governs response and tolerance of skin to a variety of environmental stresses and pathological conditions including photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer. Depigmenting reagents have been deemed useful not only for cosmetics but also for pigmentation-related pathologies. In the present study, we attempted modulation of 1-oleoyl-2-acetyl-glycerol- (OAG-) induced melanogenesis in human melanoma and primary melanocytes. In both cell types, OAG-induced melanogenesis was associated with increase in enhanced expression of melanin, tyrosinase, as well as stress chaperones (mortalin and HSP60) and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). Treatment with TXC (trans-4-(Aminomethyl) cyclohexanecarboxylic acid hexadecyl ester hydrochloride) and 5/40 natural compounds resulted in their reduction. The data proposed an important role of mortalin and oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and the use of TXC and natural extracts for modulation of pigmentation pathways in normal and pathological conditions.

Blocking negative effects of senescence in human skin fibroblasts with a plant extract.

There is increasing evidence that senescent cells are a driving force behind many age-related pathologies and that their selective elimination increases the life- and healthspan of mice. Senescent cells negatively affect their surrounding tissue by losing their cell specific functionality and by secreting a pro-tumorigenic and pro-inflammatory mixture of growth hormones, chemokines, cytokines and proteases, termed the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP). Here we identified an extract from the plant Solidago virgaurea subsp. alpestris, which exhibited weak senolytic activity, delayed the acquisition of a senescent phenotype and induced a papillary phenotype with improved functionality in human dermal fibroblasts. When administered to stress-induced premature senescent fibroblasts, this extract changed their global mRNA expression profile and particularly reduced the expression of various SASP components, thereby ameliorating the negative influence on nearby cells. Thus, the investigated plant extract represents a promising possibility to block age-related loss of tissue functionality.