Lip color diversity: An intricate study.

BACKGROUND: Lip investigations and characterizations in the literature are less prevalent than for skin, particularly on the topic of color diversity. However, as the consumer demand increases for a nude lip makeup result, that is, shades close to the bare lip color, the identification and modification of lip color is essential for the cosmetic industry. OBJECTIVE: The objective was to highlight lip color diversity among three ethnicities (Caucasian, African and Hispanic), through the use of a spectral color measurement device especially adapted to the lip area, and to consider lip color ethnic specificities and overlaps. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The inferior natural lip color was measured with a full-face hyperspectral imaging system, SpectraFace (Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France), on 410 healthy women aged 19 to 68 (Caucasian French, Caucasian American, African American, and Hispanic American women). A hierarchical ascending classification, was deployed to determine clusters based on the lip colorimetric parameters along two strategies to identify the best statistical analysis to preserve the lip color diversity. RESULTS: Lip color is a continuous color space, with great intra-ethnic and inter-ethnic diversity, especially for African American women in terms of chroma and lightness. Among the two strategies of data analysis, our two-step statistical clustering analysis yielded 11 groups (i.e., 11 lip tones), revealing an accurate representation of the scope of diversity, but also of the overlaps. CONCLUSION: The 11 lip tones/colors could potentially serve as target shades for the development of a more diverse and inclusive range of lip cosmetics, such as nude lipsticks.

Lip color measurement: A new hyperspectral imaging device.

INTRODUCTION: The lips are of significant interest among the facial features for self-perception and social interactions. Such perceptions could rely in part upon the contrast in color between the lips and the surrounding skin. In contrast to skin color, lip color ethnic diversity measurement provides a challenge and is less documented in the literature, most likely due primarily to challenges in measurement based upon the lip characteristics of size and contour. Accurate measurement and reproduction of lip color are essential to build strong cross-sectional knowledge about lip color. OBJECTIVE: This preliminary experiment of a large-scale project on lip and skin color was designed to assess accuracy in lip color measurement and recommend instruments and protocols for good measurement practice. METHODS: The study involved 19 healthy French Caucasian women. Their inferior and superior natural lip color was measured twice with three devices in order to extract the standard colorimetric parameters of lightness (L*), chroma (C*), and hue (h): the VISIA-CR® (high-resolution digital camera, Canfield Scientific Inc.); the spectrophotometer VS3200 (45°:0° spectrophotometer, MetaVue™ VS3200, X-Rite Inc.); and the SpectraFace® (new hyperspectral imaging system, Newtone Technologies). The intercomparison and color distribution between the different instruments and the measurement repeatability of each one were assessed. RESULTS: Our results showed a reliable and equivalent repeatability for the three tested instruments. Moreover, the three tools led to the same conclusion regarding lip color heterogeneity (lighter, redder, less yellow and more saturated inferior lip versus superior lip). Agreement between the SpectraFace® and the spectrophotometer measurements was higher, and the SpectraFace® allowed to identify three separated lip color typologies. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, the combination of imaging technology and hyperspectral measurement makes the SpectraFace® a useful tool to investigate lip color characterization and establish a large-scale cross-sectional knowledge study about lip color.

Why women use makeup: implication of psychological traits in makeup functions.

Makeup acts and stimulates three of our senses: touch (which encompasses all sensations from the body surface), smell (fragrance), and sight (the process of becoming and looking beautiful). The positive stimulation of these senses by makeup can induce sensory as well as psychological pleasure. In order to understand the relationship of women to their makeup, we interviewed different groups of women on their quality of life and makeup habits. Then, through four standard well-validated psychometric self-questionnaires, we examined the possible relation between the need to make up oneself and specific psychological features. Our first results clearly showed that makeup could support two opposite "up" functions, i.e., "camouflage" vs "seduction." Concerning their psychological profiles, results showed that women of the functional class "camouflage" are more anxious, defensive, and emotionally unstable compared to those of the functional class "seduction," who appear to be more sociable, assertive, and extroverted. Further analyses revealed a division of the two classes into subclasses of volunteers with opposed personality and psychological profiles. This new classification allowed us to define more precisely the relations existing within the subjective experience of women during the makeup process. In conclusion, our study revealed that beyond the simple application of colorful products on the face, makeup has two major functional implications depending on specific psychological profiles of women.

Characterization and quantification of the skin radiance through new digital image analysis.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: The individual perception of the radiance is difficult to define and quantify because it often includes physiological and psychological attributes. Although if they are differences in the perception of the skin radiance, dermatologists and experts in cosmetology consider that the complexion must reflect the general health of an individual. The aim of this work was to determine existing conditions of skin radiance via digital image analysis, consumer's perception and experts' evaluation, and propose a mathematical model to quantify the global radiance phenomenon. METHODS: A round table meeting was organized in order to have free discussions about skin radiance. The qualitative assessment of skin radiance was carried out using a self-assessment questionnaire constructed according to the information obtained from the round table meeting. A simplified version of this questionnaire was proposed to experts. One hundred female subjects belonging to three different age groups (20-30, 30-40, 40-50 and >50 years old) participated in the study. Facial images were taken using a video imaging with visual control system to ensure consistency of images among volunteers. From these images, algorithms based on the principle of polynomial approximation, segmentation by maximalization of the entropy and the Logarithmic Image Processing model were required to extract skin radiance parameters. Multiple regression analysis was used to establish, via consumer's perception of the skin radiance and experts' evaluation studies, the degree to which each of the independent parameters contributes to the skin radiance perception. RESULTS: All the items of the self-assessment questionnaire explained 74% of the variation of the skin radiance. Data from experts' analysis explained 87% of the variation of skin radiance. In the two cases, skin radiance appeared to be independent of age and the presence of wrinkles. From the image analysis, we observed that the skin surface parameters explained 20% of the variation of the skin radiance expressed by experts and 24% of the variation of the skin radiance expressed by volunteers. As a result, about 80% of the variation is not explained by the instrumental data. If we combine experts' analysis and instrumental data, we obtain a mathematical model that explains 92% of the variation of the skin radiance. CONCLUSION: The questionnaire constructed from this brainstorming session allowed volunteers and experts to judge their perception of skin radiance more precisely. Video imaging appears as an interesting method to quantify visual properties of the skin and to visualize what the consumer perceives of skin radiance. However, the mathematical model proposed from the skin surface parameters analysis does not totally explain the global perception of skin radiance. In the future, it will be necessary to develop new data-processing programs to quantify subjective parameters in order to validate our mathematical model.

Development of a new sensor based on micro-electro-mechanical systems for objective in vivo measurement of the cutaneous temperature: application to foundations.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: The purpose of this work was to develop a new sensor for objective in vivo measurement of the cutaneous temperature based on micro-electro-mechanical systems (MEMS), and to compare these performances with those of a classical thermocouple. Research on this new sensor was carried out to allow the quantification of the thermal properties of the made-up skin. METHODS: Sixteen female subjects divided into two different age groups (18-35 and >50 years old) were recruited for this study. Several zones of the face and forearms were made up at random with foundations containing or not a thermoregulator raw material. The quantity of foundation applied on the skin was standardized and measurements were carried out first before make-up, and then 10 s and 5 min after make-up. The new sensor and the thermocouple were used successively on each zone. The cutaneous temperature was expressed in degrees celsius. RESULTS/CONCLUSION: The two systems are similar in terms of repeatability and reproducibility, with some differences in sensibility. The data measured by the MEMS sensor appear lower than those measured by the thermocouple. After make-up, the MEMS sensor detects a progressive increase of the temperature in time whereas the thermocouple detects a decrease. We found the same evolution on the face but in a more attenuated way. These results tend to show that the devices do not measure the same phenomenon. The thermocouple appears more sensitive to the thermal response of the made-up surface whereas the MEMS sensor appears more sensitive to the heat transfers in the interface between the skin and make-up.