Handedness, Bilateral, and Interdigit Strength Asymmetries in Male Climbers.

PURPOSE: To determine whether there are bilateral and interdigit differences in the maximal force production of experienced climbers and whether these differences are mediated by ability level or preferred style of climbing. METHODS: Thirty-six male climbers (age 30 [9.4] y) took part in a single-session trial to test their maximal force production on both hands. The tests included a one-arm maximal isometric finger flexor strength test (MIFS) and a one-arm individual MIFS. Bilateral differences were analyzed by strongest hand (defined as the hand that produced the highest MIFS value) and dominance (defined as the writing hand). RESULTS: A pairwise t test found that MIFS was significantly greater for the strongest hand (mean difference = 4.1%, 95% CI, -0.052 to 0.029, P < .001), with handedness explaining 89% of the variation. A 2-way mixed-model analysis of variance determined that there were no interactions between preferred style (bouldering or sport climbing) and MIFS or between ability level (advanced or elite) and MIFS. CONCLUSIONS: Climbers have significant finger flexor strength bilateral asymmetries between their strongest and weakest hand. Moreover, when dominance is controlled, this difference in strength is present, with the dominant hand producing more force. Neither preferred style of climbing nor the ability level of the climbers could explain these asymmetries. As such, practitioners should consider regularly monitoring unilateral strength, aiming to minimize the likelihood of large bilateral asymmetry occurring.

Attentional Differences as a Function of Rock Climbing Performance.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between attention (using two different attention tasks) and self-reported climbing ability while considering potential confounding factors (sex, age, climbing experience, and cardiorespiratory fitness) in a group of experienced climbers. Accuracy of response (AC) and reaction time (RT) from two different attention tasks using the Vienna Test System, along with self-reported on-sight and red-point climbing ability, were assessed in 35 climbers. Linear regression revealed that climbers with the highest self-reported on-sight grade had better AC during the attention task. Linear regression models revealed, after controlling for potential confounders, that AC, measured using two attention tasks, was positively related to climbers' highest self-reported on-sight climbing ability (ß = 0.388; p = 0.031). No significant differences were found between AC and self-reported red-point climbing ability (ß = 0.286; p = 0.064). No significant relationship was found between RT and climbing ability (ß = -0.102 to 0.020; p = 0.064). In conclusion, higher-level rock climbers appear to have an enhanced attention, which is related to on-sight lead climbing style, and thus, it may be an important component of climbing performance. Coaches should consider incorporating techniques to train attention based on on-sight climbing style in climbers.

The Visual Search Strategies Underpinning Effective Observational Analysis in the Coaching of Climbing Movement.

Despite the importance of effective observational analysis in coaching the technical aspects of climbing performance, limited research informs this aspect of climbing coach education. Thus, the purpose of the present research was to explore the feasibility and the utility of a novel methodology, combining eye tracking technology and cued retrospective think-aloud (RTA), to capture the cognitive-perceptual mechanisms that underpin the visual search behaviors of climbing coaches. An analysis of gaze data revealed that expert climbing coaches demonstrate fewer fixations of greater duration and fixate on distinctly different areas of the visual display than their novice counterparts. Cued RTA further demonstrated differences in the cognitive-perceptual mechanisms underpinning these visual search strategies, with expert coaches being more cognizant of their visual search strategy. To expand, the gaze behavior of expert climbing coaches was underpinned by hierarchical and complex knowledge structures relating to the principles of climbing movement. This enabled the expert coaches to actively focus on the most relevant aspects of a climber's performance for analysis. The findings demonstrate the utility of combining eye tracking and cued RTA interviewing as a new, efficient methodology of capturing the cognitive-perceptual processes of climbing coaches to inform coaching education/strategies.