RESUMEN
BACKGROUND: Numerous formulations have been utilized in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries to effectively deliver bioactive ingredients. METHODS: We selected a well-known liposomal formulation of bilayer lipid vesicles composed of ceramide NP. Ethosomes contain hydrophilic vanillic acid or lipophilic α-bisabolol, and their physicochemical properties were evaluated. Vanillic acid is encapsulated in the aqueous core while α-bisabolol is engaged with the lipid phase. The formulation was prepared by the high-pressure homogenization method at 800 bar for 5 min. The particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential of the ethosome dispersion were analyzed by dynamic light scattering. In order to measure the skin absorption efficiency from artificial skin, an in vitro assay was performed using the Franz diffusion cell method for 24 hours. In addition, ultracentrifuges for encapsulation efficiency, dialysis membranes for active ingredient release, and low-temperature transmission electron microscopy (TEM) to evaluate the morphology of vesicles were utilized. RESULTS: The particle size of the ethosome containing ceramide NP and vanillic acid was in the range of 80 ~ 130 nm, whereas the particle size of the ethosome containing ceramide NP and α-bisabolol was 150 ~ 170 nm. In the vanillic acid-containing ethosome, increasing the amount of ceramide NP decreased the particle size, whereas the size of the α-bisabolol ethosome did not change. The stability of the prepared ethosome did not change significantly for 4 weeks at 25°C, 4°C, and 45°C. The skin absorption efficiency of ceramide NP and vanillic acid-containing ethosome was increased by about 15% compared to the control group, whereas the ethosome containing α-bisabolol and ceramide NP showed slightly higher skin absorption efficiency than the control group. In addition, encapsulation efficiency evaluation, active ingredient release measurement and cryo-TEM were taken. CONCLUSION AND PERSPECTIVE: Based on the results of these studies, we suggest that ethosome formulations containing ceramide NP can be widely used in the cosmetic industry together with other cosmetic formulations.
