In Vitro and In Vivo Anti-Aging Effect of Coffee Berry Nanoliposomes.

Encapsulation of bioactive compounds in the liposome system provides several advantages, such as enhancing the stability and lowering the toxicity of active compounds. Coffee berry extract (CBE) has previously been established to have in vitro anti-aging properties and to retard the aging of human skin. The purposes of this study were to encapsulate CBE in nanoliposomes and to assess its stability and in vitro anti-aging potential in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), as well as in healthy human skin. In the HDF model, anti-aging potential was determined by nitric oxide (NO) and collagenase inhibition assays and a superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity assay, whereas in healthy human skin (in vivo), the skin elasticity and brightness were examined. First, liposomal CBE (L-CBE) was created with a particle size of 117.33 ± 2.91 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.36 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of -56.13 ± 1.87 mV. The percentages of encapsulation efficacy (%EE) and loading efficacy (%LE) were 71.26 ± 3.12% and 2.18 ± 0.18%, respectively. After undergoing a 12-week stability test, the L-CBE retained more phenolic content than the free CBE when stored at 4 °C, room temperature, and 45 °C. Compared to free CBE, the L-CBE demonstrated a more consistent, elevated, and prolonged release of phenolics from the lipid system. In human dermal fibroblasts, L-CBE showed lower toxicity, and at its maximum nontoxic concentration (10 mg/mL), it exhibited slightly higher anti-aging effects than CBE, including NO inhibition, enhanced SOD activity, and anti-collagenase activities. In clinical trials (30 volunteer subjects), none of the participants' skin was irritated when the L-CBE, the CBE, or base creams were applied. After 2 weeks of application, the L-CBE and CBE creams both demonstrated an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in melanin levels, and after 4 weeks, L-CBE cream showed a significantly greater improvement in skin elasticity and lightening. The results demonstrate that the encapsulation of the CBE in liposomal systems could increase its stability and skin penetration, reduce its toxicity, and maintain its anti-aging effect, which is powerful enough to be exploited in anti-aging and whitening agents for application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Functional Properties of Banana Starch (Musa spp.) and Its Utilization in Cosmetics.

Unripe banana fruit of Musa acuminata (Musa AAA; Hom Khieo) and Musa sapientum L. (Musa ABB; Namwa) growing in Chiang Rai (Thailand) were used for extraction. The yield of the starches was 16.88% for Hom Khieo (HK) and 22.73% for Namwa (NW) based on unripe peeled banana fruit. The amylose contents of HK and NW were 24.99% and 26.23%, respectively. The morphology of starch granules was oval shape with elongated forms for large granules and round shape for small granules. The HK and NW showed B-type crystalline structure and the crystallinities were 23.54% and 26.83%, respectively. The peak temperature of gelatinization was around 77 °C and the enthalpy change (ΔH) was 3.05 and 7.76 J/g, respectively. The HK and NW banana starches showed 1.27 ± 0.12 g/g and 1.53 ± 0.12 g/g water absorption capacity, and 1.22 ± 0.11 g/g and 1.16 ± 0.12 g/g oil absorption capacity, respectively. The swelling power of the banana starches was 17.23 ± 0.94 g/g and 15.90 ± 0.15 g/g, respectively, and the percentage of solubility in water showed 26.43 ± 2.50 g/g and 20.54 ± 0.94 g/g, respectively. The banana starches showed very poor flow character. The HK and NW starches have the potential to be used in powder base preparations with no effect on the sensory texture of the product at 15% w/w maximum.

Aluminium and calcium lake pigments of Lac natural dye

This work presents the physicochemical properties of the prepared lac lakes. The study revealed the stability, cytotoxicity and use of lac lake pigment as a cosmetic colorant. SEM, XRD and DSC were used to study the characteristics of the lac lakes.. The color stability of lac dye and its lakes was investigated at ambient temperature and at 45 °C, in sunlight,fluorescent light and darkness, for 3 months. Cytotoxicity on human dermal skin fibroblast cell lines was tested using MTT assay and the use of the lakes as a colorant in lip color product was studied. Different metal salts resulted in lac lakes of different shades and appearance. SEM, XRD and DSC results indicated that the morphology and structure of lac dye were changed after reacting with metal salts which support the coordination of metal ion with lac dye. The lac lakes were not cytotoxic to human dermal skin fibroblast cells (0.78-100 µg/mL). Lac lakes exhibited less alteration of color shade over acidic and basic conditions when compared with the lac dye itself. Additionally, the lake pigments displayed better color stability than lac dye and produced an orange-brown shade of lip color product. The results suggest that lac lake pigments have good potential for use as cosmetic colorant.

Chitosan intercalated bentonite as natural adsorbent matrix for water-soluble sappanwood dye.

Chitosan-bentonite clay composite was prepared for use as adsorbent matrix of water-soluble natural dyes. The addition of chitosan resulted in a relatively rough texture of the composite compared with bentonite. XRD analysis showed that a basal d001-space value of the composite (15.545 Å) is higher than that of bentonite clay (14.525 Å) which indicates that chitosan was intercalated into the layer of clay. FT-IR and SEM measurement also suggested that new compound was formed. Water soluble dye extracted from sappanwood was adsorbed onto chitosan-bentonite clay composite at 81.5% adsorption capacity. The dye-adsorbed composite showed different color shade at different pH values. The color stability was investigated under sunlight, fluorescent light, 45 °C, ambient temperature and dark condition for 4 weeks, and the color change of the sappanwood dye-adsorbed composite is less than that of the unadsorbed sappanwood powder in all conditions. The composite greatly improved the color stability of sappanwood dye about five time in the extent. The results of this work showed high potential of the chitosan-bentonite clay composite to be employed as adsorbent matrix for water soluble dyes and help increasing the color stability thus wider its use in industry.

Novel biocomposite of carboxymethyl chitosan and pineapple peel carboxymethylcellulose as sunscreen carrier.

This study aims to prepare of biocomposite of carboxymethyl chitosan (CM-chitosan) and carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) from Ananas comosus (pineapple) peel for use as broad spectrum sunscreen carrier. Biocomposite was produced by using ferulic acid (FA), a plant extract, as crosslinker with the optimal ratio of CMC: CM-chitosan: FA at 1:2:4%w. FT-IR technique demonstrated that crosslinking may occur at amine group of CM-chitosan and carboxyl group of FA and hydrogen bonding between hydroxyl group of CMC and carboxyl group of FA. Biocomposite is pale yellow powder and present fibre bundle-like surface in the SEM image. DSC, TGA and XRD results indicated that new compound was formed. The particle size of biocomposite is 626nm determined by using Zetasizer. Hydrophilic TiO2 and phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (PBSA) were used as sunscreen agent at ratio of TiO2: PBSA at 2:1%w. The biocomposite sunscreen possesses the SPF value of 2.47 with boost star rating of 3 at 2% compound. The results obtained indicate that the biocomposite was successfully prepared from CM-chitosan and pineapple peel CMC and the system can be used as matrix delivery system for hydrophilic sunscreens.

Determination of hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value and emulsion properties of sacha inchi oil

Objective:To determine hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value,stability of formulate emulsion and properties of sacha inchi oil.Methods:The physiochemical characteristics of sacha inchi oil were first investigated.Free radical scavenging property was studied by DPPH assay.HLB value of sacha inchi oil was experimentally determined by preparing the emulsion using emulsifiers at different HLB value.Sacha inchi oil emulsion was prepared using the obtained HLB and its stability was conducted by centrifugation,temperature cycling,and accelerated stability test.The efficiency of the prepared emulsion was clinically investigated by 15 volunteers.The primary skin irritation was performed using closed patch test.Subjective sensory assessment was evaluated by using 5-point hedonic scale method.Results:Peroxide value of sacha inchi oil was 18.40 meq O2/kg oil and acid value was 1.86 KOH/g oil.The major fatty acids are omega-3 (44％),omega-6 (35％) and omega-9 (9％).The vitamin E content was 226 mg/100 g oil.Moreover,sacha inchi oil (167 ppm)and its emulsion showed 85％ and 89％ DPPH inhibition,respectively.The experimental HLB value of sacha inchi oil was 8.5.The sacha inchi oil emulsion exhibited good stability after stability test.The emulsion was classified as non-irritant after tested by primary skin irritation method.The skin hydration value significantly increased from 38.59 to 45.21 (P ＜ 0.05) after applying sacha inchi oil emulsion for 1 month and the overall product satisfaction of volunteers after use was with score of 4.2.Conclusions:This work provides information on HLB value and emulsion properties of sacha inchi oil which is useful for cosmetic and pharmaceutical application.

Natural products as photoprotection.

The rise in solar ultraviolet radiation on the earth's surface has led to a depletion of stratospheric ozone over recent decades, thus accelerating the need to protect human skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation such as erythema, edema, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and skin cancer. There are many different ways to protect skin against UV radiation's harmful effects. The most popular way to reduce the amount of UV radiation penetrating the skin is topical application of sunscreen products that contain UV absorbing or reflecting active molecules. Based on their protection mechanism, the active molecules in sunscreens are broadly divided into inorganic and organic agents. Inorganic sunscreens reflect and scatter UV and visible radiation, while organic sunscreens absorb UV radiation and then re-emit energy as heat or light. These synthetic molecules have limited concentration according to regulation concern. Several natural compounds with UV absorption property have been used to substitute for or to reduce the quantity of synthetic sunscreen agents. In addition to UV absorption property, most natural compounds were found to act as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory agents, which provide further protection against the damaging effects of UV radiation exposure. Compounds derived from natural sources have gained considerable attention for use in sunscreen products and have bolstered the market trend toward natural cosmetics. This adds to the importance of there being a wide selection of active molecules in sunscreen formulations. This paper summarizes a number of natural products derived from propolis, plants, algae, and lichens that have shown potential photoprotection properties against UV radiation exposure-induced skin damage.

Synthesis and catalytic epoxidation activity with TBHP and H2O2 of dioxo-, oxoperoxo-, and oxodiperoxo molybdenum(VI) and tungsten(VI) compounds containing monodentate or bidentate phosphine oxide ligands: crystal structures of WCl2(O)2(OPMePh2)2, WCl2(O)(O2)(OPMePh2)2, MoCl2(O)2dppmO2.C4H10O, WCl2(O)2dppmO2, Mo(O)(O2)2dppmO2, and W(O)(O2)2dppmO2.

The dioxo tungsten(VI) and molybdenum(VI) complexes WCl2(O)2(OPMePh2)2, WCl2(O)2dppmO2, and MoCl2(O)2dppmO2, the oxoperoxo compounds WCl2(O)(O2)(OPMePh2)2, WCl2(O)(O2)dppmO2, and MoCl2(O)(O2)dppmO2, and the oxodiperoxo complexes, W(O)(O2)2dppmO2 and Mo(O)(O2)2dppmO2 have been prepared and characterized by IR spectroscopy, 31P NMR spectroscopy, elemental analysis, and X-ray crystallography. The structural and X-ray crystallographic data of compounds WCl2(O)2(OPMePh2)2, WCl2(O)(O2)(OPMePh2)2, MoCl2(O)2dppmO2.4H10O, WCl2(O)2dppmO2, Mo(O)(O2)2dppmO2, and W(O)(O2)2dppmO2 are also detailed. All complexes were studied as catalysts for cis-cyclooctene epoxidation in the presence of tert-butyl hydroperoxide (TBHP) or H2O2 as an oxidant. The Mo-based catalysts showed a superior reactivity over W-based catalysts in the TBHP system. On the other hand, in the H2O2 system, the W-based catalysts (accomplishing nearly 100% epoxidation of cyclooctene in 6 h) are more reactive than the Mo catalysts (<45% under some conditions). Various solvent systems have been investigated, and ethanol is the most suitable solvent for the H2O2 system.