Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches: which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties?

OBJECTIVES: This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs. METHODS: Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root-tip vs. tip-root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations. A series of 17 defined antonym adjectives, as descriptors, allowed responses of each panel to being scored and their preference mappings to being defined on a like-dislike scale. Hair swatches were measured and assessed by various instrumental techniques (bending, diameter, cuticle cohesion, alignments of hair). RESULTS: Apart from a few overlaps, all 15 hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels which showed a global agreement, making experts reliable assessors. Only three descriptors among 17 correlated with some objective measurements. Tactile-visual assessments differ from those performed tactile blind in both panels. Agreements between both panels appear, however, closer under tactile-blind conditions. CONCLUSION: Trained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings.

Relationships between hair growth rate and morphological parameters of human straight hair: a same law above ethnical origins?

After measurement of individual growth rates, natural hair fibres from Asian and Caucasian subjects were analysed using scanning electron microscopy. In total, more than 1000 hairs were analysed. Measurements of diameter, medulla and interscale distance (average distance between two successive cuticle scales) show these parameters strongly correlated with hair growth rate. A thicker hair fibre corresponds to a faster growth rate, a shorter interscale distance and greater probability to have a medulla, and vice versa, a thin hair fibre shows slower growth rate, a larger interscale distance and a lower probability to have a medulla. Very interestingly, this finding appears to be unrelated to the ethnic origin of the subjects, suggesting a common characteristic of human hair, at least for the straight or semi-straight hair studied. From a practical viewpoint, this finding clearly suggests an alternative method for measuring hair growth rates, by measuring the interscale distance, which appears easier than using common laboratory equipments.

Resistance of human hair cuticle after a shaking process in wet conditions: comparison between Chinese and Caucasian hair.

Hair cuticle is the first protection shield of hair against external aggressions such as daily combing or brushing that induce friction, mechanical stress leading to ageing process. The identification of alterations of the hair surface induced by shaking process of various hair fibres, such as virgin and chemically treated Chinese and Caucasian hair, sheds some light on some specific features, e.g. Chinese cuticle is torn out in smaller particles than Caucasian, which seems to be related to geometrical rather than ethnic reasons. The present work also shows that two geometrical parameters of human hair, the inter-scale distance and the scale angle are directly linked to fibre dimensions, regardless of ethnic origin. Representative of hair with an average larger cross-sectional area, Chinese hair shows a slightly smaller inter-scale distance as well as a higher scale angle. On the other hand, Chinese hair cuticle seems to be more sensitive to chemical treatment than Caucasian hair, at least for straightening treatment taken here as an example. Such an approach can be of interest in designing cosmetic products more suited to specific needs of human hair.

Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres.

Examination of very long hair (length > 2.4 m) using a large range of evaluation methods including physical, chemical, biochemical and microscopic techniques has enabled to attain a detailed understanding of natural ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Scrutinizing hair that has undergone little or no oxidative aggression--because of the absence of action of chemical agents such as bleaching or dyeing--from the root to the tip shows the deterioration process, which gradually takes place from the outside to the inside of the hair shaft: first, a progressive abrasion of the cuticle, whilst the cortex structure remains unaltered, is evidenced along a length of roughly 1 m onwards together with constant shine, hydrophobicity and friction characteristics. Further along the fibre, a significant damage to cuticle scales occurs, which correlates well with ceramides and 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) decline, and progressive decrease in keratin-associated protein content. Most physical descriptors of mechanical and optical properties decay significantly. This detailed description of natural ageing of human hair fibres by a fine analysis of hair components and physical parameters in relationship with cosmetic characteristics provides a time-dependent 'damage scale' of human hair, which may help in designing new targeted hair care formulations.

51V magic-angle-spinning NMR and electric field gradient calculations in V2O5 and gamma-LiV2O5 crystals.

51V Magic-angle-spinning (MAS) NMR has been applied to V2O5 at two different magnetic field strengths (4.7 and 7.1 T). Both the magnitude and relative orientation of the quadrupole and chemical shift (CS) tensors have been determined by iterative fitting of the 51V MAS NMR lineshapes at the two magnetic field strengths. The reliability of the results is discussed. Moreover, it is shown that previous low-field single-crystal data are fully consistent with the high-field powder-sample MAS NMR results provided that a slight noncoincidence between the CS tensor and the crystal frame axes is considered. The electric field gradient tensor at the vanadium and lithium sites is subsequently used to test several electronic structure calculation at an ab initio Hartree-Fock level in V2O5 and gamma-LiV2O5 crystals. It is shown that a wide distribution of oxygen charges must be considered to describe the particular environment of each type of oxygen atoms. Furthermore, this analysis supports the fact that the vanadyl bond is likely a short ionic bond. NMR is found to be a valuable experimental tool to get insight into the nature of chemical bonds in vanadium oxides.