Read-across and new approach methodologies applied in a 10-step framework for cosmetics safety assessment - A case study with parabens.

Parabens are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid that have been used as preservatives in many types of products for decades including agrochemicals, pharmaceuticals, food and cosmetics. This illustrative case study with propylparaben (PP) demonstrates a 10-step read-across (RAX) framework in practice. It aims at establishing a proof-of-concept for the value added by new approach methodologies (NAMs) in read-across (RAX) for use in a next-generation risk assessment (NGRA) in order to assess consumer safety after exposure to PP-containing cosmetics. In addition to structural and physico-chemical properties, in silico information, toxicogenomics, in vitro toxicodynamic, toxicokinetic data from PBK models, and bioactivity data are used to provide evidence of the chemical and biological similarity of PP and analogues and to establish potency trends for observed effects in vitro. The chemical category under consideration is short (C1-C4) linear chain n-alkyl parabens: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. The goal of this case study is to illustrate how a practical framework for RAX can be used to fill a hypothetical data gap for reproductive toxicity of the target chemical PP.

Expansion of the Cosmetics Europe skin sensitisation database with new substances and PPRA data.

The assessment of skin sensitisation is a key requirement in all regulated sectors, with the European Union's regulation of cosmetic ingredients being most challenging, since it requires quantitative skin sensitisation assessment based on new approach methodologies (NAMs). To address this challenge, an in-depth and harmonised understanding of NAMs is fundamental to inform the assessment. Therefore, we compiled a database of NAMs, and in vivo (human and local lymph node assay) reference data. Here, we expanded this database with 41 substances highly relevant for cosmetic industry. These structurally different substances were tested in six NAMs (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay, KeratinoSens™, human Cell Line Activation Test, U-SENS™, SENS-IS, Peroxidase Peptide Reactivity Assay). Our analysis revealed that the substances could be tested without technical limitations, but were generally overpredicted when compared to reference results. Reasons for this reduced predictivity were explored through pairwise NAM comparisons and association of overprediction with hydrophobicity. We conclude that more detailed understanding of how NAMs apply to a wider range of substances is needed. This would support a flexible and informed choice of NAMs to be optimally applied in the context of a next generation risk assessment framework, ultimately contributing to the characterisation and reduction of uncertainty.

The Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) is a pragmatic tool for the safety assessment: Case studies of cosmetic ingredients with low consumer exposure.

The Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) is an internationally accepted pragmatic and conservative tool for the safety assessment of substances, which is used in a wide range of regulatory contexts. The TTC approach produces human exposure threshold values (TTC values) originally derived by Munro from oral toxicity data on cancer and non-cancer toxicity endpoints. This database has been recently substantially enlarged by the COSMOS database, an enhanced oral non-cancer TTC dataset on a larger chemical domain, thereby resulting in a new, transparent and public TTC database also including 552 cosmetics-related chemicals. The 5th percentile point of departure value for each Cramer Class was determined, from which human exposure TTC values have been derived. The combined COSMOS/Munro dataset provided TTC values of 46, 6.2 and 2.3 µg/kg bw/day for Cramer Classes I, II or III, respectively. In order to demonstrate the diverse scope and successful application of the TTC concept to cosmetic ingredients including hair dyes, fragrances and plant-derived ingredients, Cosmetics Europe has prepared several case studies. Overall, the TTC concept is not only useful to replace animal testing but can also successfully be applied to the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients in the marketed formulas with low human exposure.

New framework for a non-animal approach adequately assures the safety of cosmetic ingredients - A case study on caffeine.

This case study on the model substance caffeine demonstrates the viability of a 10-step read-across (RAX) framework in practice. New approach methodologies (NAM), including RAX and physiologically-based kinetic (PBK) modelling were used to assess the consumer safety of caffeine. Appropriate animal systemic toxicity data were used from the most relevant RAX analogue while assuming that no suitable animal toxicity data were available for caffeine. Based on structural similarities, three primary metabolites of the target chemical caffeine (theophylline, theobromine and paraxanthine) were selected as its most relevant analogues, to estimate a point of departure in order to support a next generation risk assessment (NGRA). On the basis of the pivotal mode of action (MOA) of caffeine and other methylxanthines, theophylline appeared to be the most potent and suitable analogue. A worst-case aggregate exposure assessment determined consumer exposure to caffeine from different sources, such as cosmetics and food/drinks. Using a PBK model to estimate human blood concentrations following exposure to caffeine, an acceptable Margin of Internal Exposure (MOIE) of 27-fold was derived on the basis of a RAX using theophylline animal data, which suggests that the NGRA approach for caffeine is sufficiently conservative to protect human health.

Partition coefficient and diffusion coefficient determinations of 50 compounds in human intact skin, isolated skin layers and isolated stratum corneum lipids.

A standard protocol was used to determine partition (K) and diffusion (D) coefficients in dermatomed human skin and isolated human skin layers for 50 compounds relevant to cosmetics ingredients. K values were measured in dermatomed skin, isolated dermis, whole epidermis, intact stratum corneum (SC), delipidized SC and SC lipids by direct measurements of the radioactivity in the tissue layers/lipid component vs. buffer samples. D determinations were made in dermatomed skin, isolated dermis, whole epidermis and intact SC using a non-linear regression of the cumulative receptor fluid content of radiolabeled compound, fit to the solution of Fick's 2nd Law. Correlation analysis was completed between K, D, and physicochemical properties. The amount of interindividual (donor) and intraindividual (replicate) variability in the K and D data was characterized for each skin layer and chemical. These data can be further used to help inform the factors that influence skin bioavailability and to help improve in silico models of dermal penetration.

Development of a next generation risk assessment framework for the evaluation of skin sensitisation of cosmetic ingredients.

All cosmetic products placed onto the market must undergo a risk assessment for human health to ensure they are safe for consumers, including an assessment of skin sensitisation risk. Historically, in vivo animal test methods were used to identify and characterise skin sensitisation hazard, however non-animal and other new approach methodologies (NAMs) are now the preferred and mandated choice for use in risk assessment for cosmetic ingredients. The experience gained over the last three decades on how to conduct risk assessments based upon NAMs has allowed us to develop a non-animal, next generation risk assessment (NGRA) framework for the assessment of skin sensitisers. The framework presented here is based upon the principles published by the International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation (ICCR) and is human relevant, exposure led, hypothesis driven and designed to prevent harm. It is structured in three tiers and integrates all relevant information using a weight of evidence (WoE) approach that can be iterated when new information becomes available. The initial tier (TIER 0) involves a thorough review of the existing information including; identification of the use scenario/consumer exposure; characterisation of the chemical purity and structure; in silico predictions; existing data pertaining to skin sensitisation hazard (historical or non-animal); the identification of suitable read-across candidates with supporting hazard identification/characterisation information and application of exposure-based waiving. Considering all information identified in TIER 0, the next step is the generation of a hypothesis (TIER 1). All data are considered in an exposure-led WoE approach, taking into account an initial view on whether a chemical is likely to be a skin sensitiser or not, choice of defined approach (DA) and availability of read-across candidates. If existing information is insufficient for concluding the risk assessment, the generation of additional information may be required to proceed (TIER 2). Such targeted testing could involve refinement of the exposure estimation or generation of data from in vitro or in chemico NAMs. Once sufficient information is available, the final stage of the NGRA framework is the determination of a point of departure (POD), characterising uncertainty and comparing to the consumer exposure in a WoE. Thorough evaluation of the sources of uncertainty is essential to ensure transparency and build trust in new risk assessment approaches. Although significant progress has been made, industry must continue to share its experience in skin sensitisation NGRA via case studies to demonstrate that this new risk assessment approach is protective for consumers. Dialogue and collaboration between key stakeholders, i.e. risk assessors, clinicians and regulators are important to gain mutual understanding and grow confidence in new approaches.

Use of human liver and EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions as a screening assays to compare the in vitro hepatic and dermal metabolism of 47 cosmetics-relevant chemicals.

The abundance of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) is different in the skin and liver; therefore, it is important to differentiate between liver and skin metabolism when applying the information to safety assessment of topically applied ingredients in cosmetics. Here, we have employed EpiSkin™ S9 and human liver S9 to investigate the organ-specific metabolic stability of 47 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The rank order of the metabolic rate of six chemicals in primary human hepatocytes and liver S9 matched relatively well. XME pathways in liver S9 were also present in EpiSkin S9; however, the rate of metabolism tended to be lower in the latter. It was possible to rank chemicals into low-, medium- and high-clearance chemicals and compare rates of metabolism across chemicals with similar structures. The determination of the half-life for 21 chemicals was affected by one or more factors such as spontaneous reaction with cofactors or non-specific binding, but these technical issues could be accounted for in most cases. There were seven chemicals that were metabolized by liver S9 but not by EpiSkin S9: 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, cinnamyl alcohol and 2-acetylaminofluorene (slowly metabolized); and cyclophosphamide, benzophenone, and 6-methylcoumarin. These data support the use of human liver and EpiSkin S9 as screening assays to indicate the liver and skin metabolic stability of a chemical and to allow for comparisons across structurally similar chemicals. Moreover, these data can be used to estimate the systemic bioavailability and clearance of chemicals applied topically, which will ultimately help with the safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants.

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP+ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.

Measurement of the penetration of 56 cosmetic relevant chemicals into and through human skin using a standardized protocol.

OECD test guideline 428 compliant protocol using human skin was used to test the penetration of 56 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The penetration of finite doses (10 µL/cm2 ) of chemicals was measured over 24 hours. The dermal delivery (DD) (amount in the epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid [RF]) ranged between 0.03 ± 0.02 and 72.61 ± 8.89 µg/cm2 . The DD of seven chemicals was comparable with in vivo values. The DD was mainly accounted for by the amount in the RF, although there were some exceptions, particularly of low DD chemicals. While there was some variability due to cell outliers and donor variation, the overall reproducibility was very good. As six chemicals had to be applied in 100% ethanol due to low aqueous solubility, we compared the penetration of four chemicals with similar physicochemical properties applied in ethanol and phosphate-buffered saline. Of these, the DD of hydrocortisone was the same in both solvents, while the DD of propylparaben, geraniol and benzophenone was lower in ethanol. Some chemicals displayed an infinite dose kinetic profile; whereas, the cumulative absorption of others into the RF reflected the finite dosing profile, possibly due to chemical volatility, total absorption, chemical precipitation through vehicle evaporation or protein binding (or a combination of these). These investigations provide a substantial and consistent set of skin penetration data that can help improve the understanding of skin penetration, as well as improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

Dermal absorption study OECD TG 428 mass balance recommendations based on the EFSA database.

The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) guidance (EFSA, 2017) for dermal absorption (DA) studies recommends stringent mass balance (MB) limits of 95-105%. EFSA suggested that test material can be lost after penetration and requires that for chemicals with <5% absorption the non-recovered material must be added to the absorbed dose if MB is <95%. This has huge consequences for low absorption pesticides. Indeed, one third of the MBs in the EFSA DA database are outside the refined criteria. This is also true for DA data generated by Cosmetics Europe (Gregoire et al., 2019), indicating that this criterion is often not achieved even when using highly standardized protocols. While EFSA hypothesizes that modern analytical and pipetting techniques would enable to achieve this criterion, no scientific basis was provided. We describe how protocol procedures impact MB and evaluate the EFSA DA database to demonstrate that MB is subject to random variation. Generic application of "the addition rule" skews the measured data and increases the DA estimate, which results in unnecessary risk assessment failure. In conclusion, "missing material" is just a random negative deviation to the nominal dose. We propose a data-driven MB criterion of 90-110%, fully in line with OECD recommendations.

A mode-of-action ontology model for safety evaluation of chemicals: Outcome of a series of workshops on repeated dose toxicity.

Repeated dose toxicity evaluation aims at assessing the occurrence of adverse effects following chronic or repeated exposure to chemicals. Non-animal approaches have gained importance in the last decades because of ethical considerations as well as due to scientific reasons calling for more human-based strategies. A critical aspect of this challenge is linked to the capacity to cover a comprehensive set of interdependent mechanisms of action, link them to adverse effects and interpret their probability to be triggered in the light of the exposure at the (sub)cellular level. Inherent to its structured nature, an ontology addressing repeated dose toxicity could be a scientific and transparent way to achieve this goal. Additionally, repeated dose toxicity evaluation through the use of a harmonized ontology should be performed in a reproducible and consistent manner, while mimicking as accurately as possible human physiology and adaptivity. In this paper, the outcome of a series of workshops organized by Cosmetics Europe on this topic is reported. As such, this manuscript shows how experts set critical elements and ways of establishing a mode-of-action ontology model as a support to risk assessors aiming to perform animal-free safety evaluation of chemicals based on repeated dose toxicity data.

Use of a Simple in vitro Test to Assess Loss of Chemical due to Volatility during an in vitro Human Skin Absorption Study.

BACKGROUND: We tested the cutaneous distribution of 50 chemicals in frozen human skin. The mass balance (MB) values for 48% of the chemicals were < 90%, possibly due to evaporation. METHODS: We confirmed the reduction in MB was due to evaporation for two chemicals tested in skin penetration experiments using a carbon filter above the skin to trap airborne chemical. An in vitro assay was used to predict the reduction in MB due to evaporation by comparing the recovery of chemicals after 4 h of incubation at room temperature in open and closed vials. RESULTS: Evaporative losses in vitro correlated well with measured MBs (i.e., < 90%) in skin penetration experiments (R2 = 0.81). There was a correlation of the MB with the vapour pressure (VP) which could be used to group chemicals according to their likelihood to evaporate during the course of a skin penetration study. There was also a correlation of MB with Henry's law constants, melting and boiling points. CONCLUSION: Our data support the use of a quick and simple test for volatility to account for the loss of MB in skin penetration experiment due to volatility. The best parameter to indicate the potential of a chemical to evaporate is the VP.

Challenges in working towards an internal threshold of toxicological concern (iTTC) for use in the safety assessment of cosmetics: Discussions from the Cosmetics Europe iTTC Working Group workshop.

The Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) is an important risk assessment tool which establishes acceptable low-level exposure values to be applied to chemicals with limited toxicological data. One of the logical next steps in the continued evolution of TTC is to develop this concept further so that it is representative of internal exposures (TTC based on plasma concentration). An internal TTC (iTTC) would provide threshold values that could be utilized in exposure-based safety assessments. As part of a Cosmetics Europe (CosEu) research program, CosEu has initiated a project that is working towards the development of iTTCs that can be used for the human safety assessment. Knowing that the development of an iTTC is an ambitious and broad-spanning topic, CosEu organized a Working Group comprised a balance of multiple stakeholders (cosmetics and chemical industries, the EPA and JRC and academia) with relevant experience and expertise and workshop to critically evaluate the requirements to establish an iTTC. Outcomes from the workshop included an evaluation on the current state of the science for iTTC, the overall iTTC strategy, selection of chemical databases, capture and curation of chemical information, ADME and repeat dose data, expected challenges, as well as next steps and ongoing work.

A strategy for systemic toxicity assessment based on non-animal approaches: The Cosmetics Europe Long Range Science Strategy programme.

When performing safety assessment of chemicals, the evaluation of their systemic toxicity based only on non-animal approaches is a challenging objective. The Safety Evaluation Ultimately Replacing Animal Test programme (SEURAT-1) addressed this question from 2011 to 2015 and showed that further research and development of adequate tools in toxicokinetic and toxicodynamic are required for performing non-animal safety assessments. It also showed how to implement tools like thresholds of toxicological concern (TTCs) and read-across in this context. This paper shows a tiered scientific workflow and how each tier addresses the four steps of the risk assessment paradigm. Cosmetics Europe established its Long Range Science Strategy (LRSS) programme, running from 2016 to 2020, based on the outcomes of SEURAT-1 to implement this workflow. Dedicated specific projects address each step of this workflow, which is introduced here. It tackles the question of evaluating the internal dose when systemic exposure happens. The applicability of the workflow will be shown through a series of case studies, which will be published separately. Even if the LRSS puts the emphasis on safety assessment of cosmetic relevant chemicals, it remains applicable to any type of chemical.

Non-animal methods to predict skin sensitization (II): an assessment of defined approaches *.

Skin sensitization is a toxicity endpoint of widespread concern, for which the mechanistic understanding and concurrent necessity for non-animal testing approaches have evolved to a critical juncture, with many available options for predicting sensitization without using animals. Cosmetics Europe and the National Toxicology Program Interagency Center for the Evaluation of Alternative Toxicological Methods collaborated to analyze the performance of multiple non-animal data integration approaches for the skin sensitization safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients. The Cosmetics Europe Skin Tolerance Task Force (STTF) collected and generated data on 128 substances in multiple in vitro and in chemico skin sensitization assays selected based on a systematic assessment by the STTF. These assays, together with certain in silico predictions, are key components of various non-animal testing strategies that have been submitted to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development as case studies for skin sensitization. Curated murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) and human skin sensitization data were used to evaluate the performance of six defined approaches, comprising eight non-animal testing strategies, for both hazard and potency characterization. Defined approaches examined included consensus methods, artificial neural networks, support vector machine models, Bayesian networks, and decision trees, most of which were reproduced using open source software tools. Multiple non-animal testing strategies incorporating in vitro, in chemico, and in silico inputs demonstrated equivalent or superior performance to the LLNA when compared to both animal and human data for skin sensitization.

Non-animal methods to predict skin sensitization (I): the Cosmetics Europe database.

Cosmetics Europe, the European Trade Association for the cosmetics and personal care industry, is conducting a multi-phase program to develop regulatory accepted, animal-free testing strategies enabling the cosmetics industry to conduct safety assessments. Based on a systematic evaluation of test methods for skin sensitization, five non-animal test methods (DPRA (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay), KeratinoSensTM, h-CLAT (human cell line activation test), U-SENSTM, SENS-IS) were selected for inclusion in a comprehensive database of 128 substances. Existing data were compiled and completed with newly generated data, the latter amounting to one-third of all data. The database was complemented with human and local lymph node assay (LLNA) reference data, physicochemical properties and use categories, and thoroughly curated. Focused on the availability of human data, the substance selection resulted nevertheless resulted in a high diversity of chemistries in terms of physico-chemical property ranges and use categories. Predictivities of skin sensitization potential and potency, where applicable, were calculated for the LLNA as compared to human data and for the individual test methods compared to both human and LLNA reference data. In addition, various aspects of applicability of the test methods were analyzed. Due to its high level of curation, comprehensiveness, and completeness, we propose our database as a point of reference for the evaluation and development of testing strategies, as done for example in the associated work of Kleinstreuer et al. We encourage the community to use it to meet the challenge of conducting skin sensitization safety assessment without generating new animal data.

State-of-the-art and new options to assess T cell activation by skin sensitizers: Cosmetics Europe Workshop.

Significant progress has been made in the development and validation of non-animal test methods for skin sensitization assessment. At present, three of the four key events of the Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP) are assessable by OECD-accepted in vitro methods. The fourth key event describes the immunological response in the draining lymph node where activated dendritic cells present major histocompatibility complex-bound chemically modified peptides to naive T cells, thereby priming the proliferation of antigen-specific T cells. Despite substantial efforts, modelling and assessing this adaptive immune response to sensitizers with in vitro T cell assays still represents a challenge. The Cosmetics Europe Skin Tolerance Task Force organized a workshop, bringing together academic researchers, method developers, industry representatives and regulatory stakeholders to review the scientific status of T cell-based assays, foster a mutual scientific understanding and conceive new options to assess T cell activation. Participants agreed that current T cell assays have come a long way in predicting immunogenicity, but that further investment and collaboration is required to simplify assays, optimize their sensitivity, better define human donor-to-donor variability and evaluate their value to predict sensitizer potency. Furthermore, the potential role of T cell assays in AOP-based testing strategies and subsequent safety assessment concepts for cosmetic ingredients was discussed. It was agreed that it is currently difficult to anticipate uses of T cell assay data for safety assessment and concluded that experience from case studies on real-life risk assessment scenarios is needed to further consider the usefulness of assessing the fourth AOP key event.

Comparison of the Skin Penetration of 3 Metabolically Stable Chemicals Using Fresh and Frozen Human Skin.

BACKGROUND: The Cosmetics Europe ADME Task Force is developing in vitro and in silico tools for predicting skin and systemic concentrations after topical application of cosmetic ingredients. There are conflicting reports as to whether the freezing process affects the penetration of chemicals; therefore, we evaluated whether the storage of human skin used in our studies (8-12 weeks at -20°C) affected the penetration of model chemicals. METHODS: Finite doses of trans-cinnamic acid (TCA), benzoic acid (BA), and 6-methylcoumarin (6MC) (non-volatile, non-protein reactive and metabolically stable in skin) were applied to fresh and thawed frozen skin from the same donors. The amounts of chemicals in different skin compartments were analysed after 24 h. RESULTS: Although there were some statistical differences in some parameters for 1 or 2 donors, the penetration of TCA, BA, and 6MC was essentially the same in fresh and frozen skin, i.e., there were no biologically relevant differences in penetration values. Statistical differences that were evident indicated that penetration was marginally lower in frozen than in fresh skin, indicating that the barrier function of the skin was not lost. CONCLUSION: The penetration of the 3 chemicals was essentially unaffected by freezing the skin at -20°C for up to 12 weeks.