Correlations between skin hydration parameters and corneocyte-derived parameters to characterize skin conditions.

BACKGROUND: Skin hydration is generally assessed using the parameters of skin surface water content (SWC) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). To date, few studies have characterized skin conditions using correlations between skin hydration parameters and corneocyte parameters. AIMS: The parameters SWC and TEWL allow the classification of skin conditions into four distinct Groups. The purpose of this study was to assess the characteristics of skin conditions classified by SWC and TEWL for correlations with parameters from corneocytes. METHODS: A human volunteer test was conducted that measured SWC and TEWL. As corneocyte-derived parameters, the size and thick abrasion ratios, the ratio of sulfhydryl groups and disulfide bonds (SH/SS) and CP levels were analyzed. RESULTS: Volunteers were classified by their median SWC and TEWL values into 4 Groups: Group I (high SWC/low TEWL), Group II (high SWC/high TEWL), Group III (low SWC/low TEWL), and Group IV (low SWC/high TEWL). Group IV showed a significantly smaller size of corneocytes. Groups III and IV had significantly higher thick abrasion ratios and CP levels. Group I had a significantly lower SH/SS value. The SWC/TEWL value showed a decline in order from Group I to Group IV. CONCLUSION: Groups classified by their SWC and TEWL values showed characteristic skin conditions. We propose that the SWC and TEWL ratio is a comprehensive parameter to assess skin conditions.

Comparative assessment of 24-hr primary skin irritation test and human patch test data with in vitro skin irritation tests according to OECD Test Guideline 439 (for quasi-drugs in Japan).

The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Test Guideline (TG) 439 is an in vitro test method of reconstructed human epidermis (RhE), which was developed for hazard identification of irritating chemicals in accordance with a primary skin irritation test using rabbits with 4-hr exposure. A regulation for quasi-drugs in Japan requires data from primary skin irritation tests using rabbits to undergo 24-hr exposure, and this is used as an evidence for 24-hr closed patch tests in humans. In this study with the same chemicals, primary skin irritation test data using rabbits undergoing 24-hr exposure and a 24-hr occlusive human patch test data were analyzed by comparing the results obtained with four test methods adopted in OECD TG 439. The performances of in vitro test methods showed a positive predictive value of 72.7-85.7% to predict the results of 24-hr primary rabbit skin irritation test knowing that its positive predictive value was 57.1% against humans only. The prediction factors of in vitro test methods were higher for the human patch test data with a sensitivity reaching 60 to 80%. Three surfactants gave false negatives in some of the RhE methods evaluated with the human patch test, but in each case, they were correctly classified as positive when evaluated at double concentration. Therefore, the approach of setting the margin to 2 was effective in eliminating false negatives. This suggests that in vitro test methods are useful for assessing skin irritation potential without animal testing for the application of quasi-drugs in Japan.

Antioxidant-based topical formulations influence on the inflammatory response of Japanese skin: A clinical study using non-invasive techniques.

Cutaneous irritants exposure induces an excess of ROS in the skin and can ensue an inflammatory response. Topical antioxidant-based formulations can help to counteract ROS generation. This study evaluated the influence of antioxidant-based topical formulations on the inflammatory response of skin, using a combination of in vivo real-time non-invasive techniques. Nine test areas were defined on each volar forearm of the 25 Japanese volunteers. Measurements were performed before and after treatment with 15µL of a 5% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution and 15µL of the same based formulation or the vehicle with 1% of the antioxidants. Volunteers without antioxidant treatment showed more pronounced erythematous areas. Transepidermal water loss of areas treated with green tea polyphenol (GTP)-based formulation showed fully recovered skin. Skin barrier damage caused by repeated applications of SDS showed characteristic alterations, detectable by in vivo confocal microscopy such as desquamation, spongiosis and inflammatory infiltrates. The majority of confocal microscopy inflammation signs were found in skin without treatment followed by the vehicle. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Coenzyme Q10, GTP- and Resveratrol-based formulations reduced the anti-inflammatory cytokines release and attenuated inflammatory signs. The combination of techniques provides results that highlight the importance of antioxidant-based formulations for rapid skin recovery.

Evaluation of combinations of in vitro sensitization test descriptors for the artificial neural network-based risk assessment model of skin sensitization.

The skin sensitization potential of chemicals has been determined with the use of the murine local lymph node assay (LLNA). However, in recent years public concern about animal welfare has led to a requirement for non-animal risk assessment systems for the prediction of skin sensitization potential, to replace LLNA. Selection of an appropriate in vitro test or in silico model descriptors is critical to obtain good predictive performance. Here, we investigated the utility of artificial neural network (ANN) prediction models using various combinations of descriptors from several in vitro sensitization tests. The dataset, collected from published data and from experiments carried out in collaboration with the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA), consisted of values from the human cell line activation test (h-CLAT), direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA), SH test and antioxidant response element (ARE) assay for chemicals whose LLNA thresholds have been reported. After confirming the relationship between individual in vitro test descriptors and the LLNA threshold (e.g. EC3 value), we used the subsets of chemicals for which the requisite test values were available to evaluate the predictive performance of ANN models using combinations of h-CLAT/DPRA (N = 139 chemicals), the DPRA/ARE assay (N = 69), the SH test/ARE assay (N = 73), the h-CLAT/DPRA/ARE assay (N = 69) and the h-CLAT/SH test/ARE assay (N = 73). The h-CLAT/DPRA, h-CLAT/DPRA/ARE assay and h-CLAT/SH test/ARE assay combinations showed a better predictive performance than the DPRA/ARE assay and the SH test/ARE assay. Our data indicates that the descriptors evaluated in this study were all useful for predicting human skin sensitization potential, although combinations containing h-CLAT (reflecting dendritic cell-activating ability) were most effective for ANN-based prediction.

Test battery with the human cell line activation test, direct peptide reactivity assay and DEREK based on a 139 chemical data set for predicting skin sensitizing potential and potency of chemicals.

To develop a testing strategy incorporating the human cell line activation test (h-CLAT), direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA) and DEREK, we created an expanded data set of 139 chemicals (102 sensitizers and 37 non-sensitizers) by combining the existing data set of 101 chemicals through the collaborative projects of Japan Cosmetic Industry Association. Of the additional 38 chemicals, 15 chemicals with relatively low water solubility (log Kow > 3.5) were selected to clarify the limitation of testing strategies regarding the lipophilic chemicals. Predictivities of the h-CLAT, DPRA and DEREK, and the combinations thereof were evaluated by comparison to results of the local lymph node assay. When evaluating 139 chemicals using combinations of three methods based on integrated testing strategy (ITS) concept (ITS-based test battery) and a sequential testing strategy (STS) weighing the predictive performance of the h-CLAT and DPRA, overall similar predictivities were found as before on the 101 chemical data set. An analysis of false negative chemicals suggested a major limitation of our strategies was the testing of low water-soluble chemicals. When excluded the negative results for chemicals with log Kow > 3.5, the sensitivity and accuracy of ITS improved to 97% (91 of 94 chemicals) and 89% (114 of 128). Likewise, the sensitivity and accuracy of STS to 98% (92 of 94) and 85% (111 of 129). Moreover, the ITS and STS also showed good correlation with local lymph node assay on three potency classifications, yielding accuracies of 74% (ITS) and 73% (STS). Thus, the inclusion of log Kow in analysis could give both strategies a higher predictive performance.

The possible involvement of skin dryness on alterations of the dermal matrix.

Moisturization of the skin plays an important role in maintaining skin homeostasis. Although it is understood that skin dryness initiates the formation of fine wrinkles, there are few objective reports to support that understanding. The purpose of this study was to establish an in vitro dry epidermal model using reconstructed human epidermal equivalents (RHEEs) and to elucidate the relationship between skin dryness and alterations of the dermal matrix which is one of the causes for the formation of wrinkles. An in vitro dry epidermal model was prepared by loading a CaCl2 -filled ampoule on the surface of an RHEE. To evaluate whether the in vitro model reproduced the characteristics of in vivo skin dryness, histological studies and biological assays using a protein array were carried out. Histologically, a distinct fluorescence which originated from carbonylated protein was observed in the stratum corneum. In addition, conditioned medium from RHEEs cultured under dry conditions for 24 h revealed the secretion of several proteins, such as IL-1α, IL-1ra, IL-8, MMP-9, VEGF, M-CSF and IGFBP-2 and IGFBP-3, galectin-1, Cys-C, FGF-6, OPG, Glc and TSP4 compared with normal RHEEs. It has been reported that an increase in IL-1α and the accumulation of carbonylated proteins are observed in the intact stratum corneum in the low humidity winter season. Thus, the in vitro dry epidermal model expresses the features of in vivo skin dryness observed in the winter season. Furthermore, the conditioned medium from RHEEs cultured under dry conditions enhanced MMP-1 secretion by normal human dermal fibroblasts. Taken together, we propose the hypothesis that skin dryness contributes to alterations of the dermal matrix through the elevation of MMP-1 secretion.

Microbial conversion of L-ascorbic acid to L-erythroascorbic acid.

We found that a strain of Penicillium sp. effectively converted L-ascorbic acid to a five-carbon analog, which was identified as L-erythroascorbic acid based on spectroscopic analysis. The conversion was achieved by growing culture or washed mycelia, with a yield of approximately 20-30% (mol/mol). The processes for the bioconversion and purification of the product are described.