Physicochemical Evaluation of Personal Care Products Developed with Chondrus crispus Fractions Processed by Ecofriendly Methodologies.

Novel personal care products are necessary to cope with the growing market demand for sustainable green products. In this context, this work deals with the formulation and fundamental physicochemical and rheological characterization of different natural personal care products using bioactive fractions from Chondrus crispus red macroalgae extracted under optimized green conditions. Body milks, body oils and shampoos were supplemented with soluble extracts with antioxidant features recovered after hydrothermal (200 °C) and microwave (170 °C)- and ultrasound (80 °C)-assisted extraction of the red macroalgae used as raw material. Formulated products were also compared with those prepared using (±)-α-tocopherol and butylhydroxytoluene standards. Body scrubs were formulated with the remaining solids (<2.25%) after microwave hydrodiffusion and gravidity treatment of the macroalgae. Results indicated that selected extracts provided personal care products with similar or even better physicochemical, color and viscous features than those supplemented with (±)-α-tocopherol or butylhydroxytoluene commercial antioxidants. Rheological profiles indicated that it is possible to develop personal care products with adequate viscous behavior (102−105 mPa s, at 1 s−1), comparable with their synthetic counterparts. To conclude, the addition of antioxidant extracts led to lower apparent viscosity values suggesting an advantage from the skin applicability point of view, jointly with the absence of both the hysteresis phenomenon and water syneresis of the proposed formulations.

Efficient extraction of carrageenans from Chondrus crispus for the green synthesis of gold nanoparticles and formulation of printable hydrogels.

The integral utilization of sustainable resources with versatile, efficient and cleaner processes is encouraged. Hydrothermal treatment with subcritical water is a chemical free, tunable and rapid technology providing enhanced yield compared to conventional extraction and was explored for the benign by design extraction and depolymerization of carrageenan from Chondrus crispus. Up to 90% of the seaweed was solubilized operating under nonisothermal regime during heating up to 200 °C and 75.5% crude carrageenan yield was attained at 140 °C. Crude carrageenan could not be precipitated by ethanol from the extracts produced at 180 °C and higher temperatures, but ultrafiltration (100 kDa) of the extract obtained at 160 °C provided comparable recovery yields and similar rheological features to those of the ethanol precipitated product. Operation at 140 °C was preferred based on the higher recovery yield of the biopolymer and the whole extract was suitable for the green synthesis of polycrystalline decahedral quasi-spherical gold nanoparticles with a mean size distribution of 8.4 nm and Z potential value of -40.2 mV. Alternatively, the crude carrageen fraction was used for the formulation of printable biopolymer based gels with suitable mechanical properties, including a relevant gel strength enhancement (about 10-fold) when compared with conventional procedures.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics.

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Microwave Hydrodiffusion and Gravity (MHG) Extraction from Different Raw Materials with Cosmetic Applications.

Microwave hydrodiffusion and gravity (MHG) and ethanolic solid-liquid extraction were compared using selected plant sources. Their bioactive profile, color features, and proximate chemical characterization were determined. MHG extracts, commercial antioxidants, and three distinct types of thermal spring water were used in a sunscreen cream formulation. Their bioactive capacity, chemical and rheological properties were evaluated. MHG Cytisus scoparius flower extract provided the highest bioactive properties. Pleurotus ostreatus MHG liquor exhibited the highest total solid extraction yield. The Brassica rapa MHG sample stood out for its total protein content and its monosaccharide and oligosaccharide concentration. Quercus robur acorns divided into quarters supplied MHG extract with the lowest energy requirements, highest DPPH inhibition percentage, total lipid content and the highest enzyme inhibition. The chemical and bioactive capacities stability of the sunscreen creams elaborated with the selected MHG extracts and the thermal spring waters showed a similar behavior than the samples containing commercial antioxidants.

Recent developments on the extraction and application of ursolic acid. A review.

Ursolic acid (UA) is a pentacyclic triterpenoid widely found in herbs, leaves, flowers and fruits; update information on the major natural sources or agro-industrial wastes is presented. Traditional (maceration, Soxhlet and heat reflux) and modern (microwave-, ultrasound-, accelerated solvent- and supercritical fluid) extraction and purification technologies of UA, as well as some patented process, are summarized. The great interest in this bioactive compound is related to the beneficial effects in human health due to antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective, immunomodulatory, anti-tumor, chemopreventive, cardioprotective, antihyperlipidemic and hypoglycemic activities, and others. UA may augment the resistance of the skin barrier to irritants, prevent dry skin and could be suitable to develop antiaging products. The development of nanocrystals and nanoparticle-based drugs could reduce the side effects of high doses of UA in organisms, and increase its limited solubility and poor bioavailability of UA which limit the potential of this bioactive and the further applications. Commercial patented applications in relation to cosmetical and pharmaceutical uses of UA and its derivatives are surveyed.