Interlaboratory Evaluation of Multiple LC-MS/MS Methods and a Commercial ELISA Method for Determination of Tetrodotoxin in Oysters and Mussels.

BACKGROUND: Given the recent detection of tetrodotoxin (TTX) in bivalve molluscs but the absence of a full collaborative validation study for TTX determination in a large number of shellfish samples, interlaboratory assessment of method performance was required to better understand current capabilities for accurate and reproducible TTX quantitation using chemical and immunoassay methods. OBJECTIVE: The aim was to conduct an interlaboratory study with multiple laboratories, using results to assess method performance and acceptability of different TTX testing methods. METHODS: Homogenous and stable mussel and oyster materials were assessed by participants using a range of published and in-house detection methods to determine mean TTX concentrations. Data were used to calculate recoveries, repeatability, and reproducibility, together with participant acceptability z-scores. RESULTS: Method performance characteristics were good, showing excellent sensitivity, recovery, and repeatability. Acceptable reproducibility was evidenced by HorRat values for all LC-MS/MS and ELISA methods being less than the 2.0 limit of acceptability. Method differences between the LC-MS/MS participants did not result in statistically different results. Method performance characteristics compared well with previously published single-laboratory validated methods and no statistical difference was found in results returned by ELISA in comparison with LC-MS/MS. CONCLUSION: The results from this study demonstrate that current LC-MS/MS methods and ELISA are on the whole capable of sensitive, accurate, and reproducible TTX quantitation in shellfish. Further work is recommended to expand the number of laboratories testing ELISA and to standardize an LC-MS/MS protocol to further improve interlaboratory precision. HIGHLIGHTS: Multiple mass spectrometric methods and a commercial ELISA have been successfully assessed through an interlaboratory study, demonstrating excellent performance.

Twenty-Five Years of Domoic Acid Monitoring in Galicia (NW Spain): Spatial, Temporal and Interspecific Variations.

Prevalence, impact on shellfish resources and interspecific, spatial, and temporal variabilities of domoic acid (DA) in bivalves from Galicia (NW Spain) have been studied based on more than 25 years of monitoring data. The maximum prevalence (samples in which DA was detected) (100%) and incidence (samples with DA levels above the regulatory limit) (97.4%) were recorded in Pecten maximus, and the minimum ones in Mytilus galloprovincialis (12.6 and 1.1%, respectively). The maximum DA concentrations were 663.9 mg kg-1 in P. maximus and 316 mg kg-1 in Venerupis corrugata. After excluding scallop P. maximusdata, DA was found (prevalence) in 13.3% of bivalve samples, with 1.3% being over the regulatory limit. In general, the prevalence of this toxin decreased towards the North but not the magnitude of its episodes. The seasonal distribution was characterized by two maxima, in spring and autumn, with the later decreasing in intensity towards the north. DA levels decreased slightly over the studied period, although this decreasing trend was not linear. A cyclic pattern was observed in the interannual variability, with cycles of 4 and 11 years. Intoxication and detoxification rates were slower than those expected from laboratory experiments, suggesting the supply of DA during these phases plays an important role.

Gymnodimine A in mollusks from the north Atlantic Coast of Spain: Prevalence, concentration, and relationship with spirolides.

Gymnodimine A has been found in mollusks obtained along the whole northern coast of Spain from April 2017 to December 2019. This is the first time that this toxin is detected in mollusks from the Atlantic coast of Europe. The prevalence of the toxin was, in general, low, being detected on average in approximately 6% of the obtained samples (122 out of 1900). The concentrations recorded were also, in general, low, with a median of 1.3 µg kg-1, and a maximum value of 23.93 µg kg-1. The maxima of prevalence and concentration were not geographically coincident, taking place the first at the easternmost part of the sampled area and the second at the westernmost part. In most cases (>94%), gymnodimine A and 13-desmethyl spirolide C were concurrently detected, suggesting that Alexandrium ostenfeldii could be the responsible producer species. The existence of cases in which gymnodimine A was detected alone suggests also that a Karenia species could also be involved. The geographical heterogeneity of the distribution suggests that blooms of the producer species are mostly local. Not all bivalves are equally affected, clams being less affected than mussels, oysters, and razor clams. Due to their relatively low toxicity, and their low prevalence and concentration, it seems that these toxins do not pose an important risk for the mollusk consumers in the area.

Chemical constituents, in vitro antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of ethyl acetate extract obtained from Cytisus triflorus l'Her.

The present study investigates the phenolic composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of an ethyl acetate extract from C. triflorus L'Her. The phytochemical study on the aerial parts of C. triflorus belonging to the Fabaceae family led to the isolation and structural elucidation of 5-Hydroxy-7-O-glucosylflavone (P1), 5-Hydroxy-7-O-galactosylflavone (P2), 5,7-Dihydroxy-flavone (P3), 5,7,3'-Trihydroxy,4'-methoxy-flavone (P4). These compounds were identified by 1D and 2D NMR combined analysis as well as by UV.Ethyl acetate extract of C. triflorus showed a significant and dose-dependent antioxidant activity in vitro, related to the presence of phenolics (180.33 ± 12.22 µg GAE/mg) and flavonoids (16.78 ± 1.54 µg QE/mg). The antimicrobial activity was evaluated in vitro against Staphylococcus aureus CECT 240 and Escherichia coli CECT 4099, by agar-diffusion method. The most active antibacterial activity was expressed by ethyl acetate extract of C. triflorus against Gram-positive bacteria S. aureus. The gathered results suggest that C. triflorus polyphenols and flavonoids are closely associated to its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Antioxidants Profiling of By-Products from Eucalyptus Greenboards Manufacture.

Three different by-products from the Eucalyptus wood industry have been exhaustively characterized to find compounds with antioxidant properties. The industrial process to manufacture Eucalyptus greenboards is distinguished by using just wood and water, which converts the generated by-products in a highly attractive source of bioactive compounds that are originally in the raw material. The studied by-products were: the screw water, derived from the washing of the wood chips; the condensates, obtained after the evaporation and further condensation of the screw water; and finally, the concentrate of eucalyptus. For all of them and for their derived organic extracts, the total polyphenols content (TPC) and antioxidant activity (AA) have been evaluated. The chromatographic fingerprints, based on gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) have been obtained to identify the main extractable organic wood components. Besides, solid-phase microextraction (SPME) has been employed to characterize the most volatile compounds. Significant differences were observed for the chromatographic profiles of the studied by-products. Up to 48 and 30 different compounds were identified in the screw water, and condensate by-products, respectively; whereas the highest number of compounds, up to 72, have been identified in the organic extracts derived from the concentrate of Eucalyptus, highlighting the presence of monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, polyphenols, and other bioactive compounds with antioxidant properties. Therefore, these by-products could be exploited to obtain natural extracts with added value which could be reused in the food, cosmetic or pharmaceutical industry, reducing the environmental impact of the industrial activity.

Determination of multiclass personal care products in continental waters by solid-phase microextraction followed by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry.

A methodology based on solid-phase microextraction (SPME) followed by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was developed for the simultaneous analysis of different families of personal care products (PCPs) including fragrance allergens, synthetic musks, phthalates, antioxidants and UV filters in continental waters. The main parameters affecting SPME procedure were optimized by an ANOVA study. The final selected conditions comprised the use of 10 mL of sample with 20% (w/v) of sodium chloride (NaCl), polydimtehylsiloxane/divinylbenzene (PDMS/DVB) fiber and 20 min of extraction time at 100 °C in the head-space mode. Good linearity (R2>0.9925), quantitative recoveries (>79%), and precision (RSD < 15%) were achieved for all compounds under the optimal conditions. Limits of quantification (LOQs) at the sub and low ng L-1 were obtained. The validated methodology was successfully applied to the analysis of river water samples from the North Portuguese coast allowing the determination of five different families of PCPs, including a total of 43 compounds in a single chromatographic run within 23 min.

Detection and Spatio-Temporal Distribution of Pinnatoxins in Shellfish from the Atlantic and Cantabrian Coasts of Spain.

For the first time, pinnatoxins have been detected in shellfish from the Atlantic and Cantabrian coasts of Spain. High sensitivity LC-MS/MS systems were used to monitor all the currently known pinnatoxins (A-H). Pinnatoxin G (PnTX G) was the most prevalent toxin of the group, but its metabolite PnTX A has also been found at much lower levels. No trend in PnTX G concentration was found in the area, but a hotspot in the Ría de Camariñas has been identified. The maximum concentrations found did not exceed 15 µg·kg-1, being, in most cases, below 3 µg·kg-1. The highest concentrations were found in wild (intertidal) populations of mussels which attained much higher levels than raft-cultured ones, suggesting that the toxin-producer organisms preferentially develop in shallow areas. Other bivalve species had, in general, lower concentrations. The incidence of PnTX G followed a seasonal pattern in which the maximum concentrations took place in winter months. PnTX G was found to be partially esterified but the esterification percentage was not high (lower than 30%).

Simultaneous in-vial acetylation solid-phase microextraction followed by gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry for the analysis of multiclass organic UV filters in water.

UV filters are a class of emerging contaminants that are widely used in personal care products (PCPs) and that can be detected at low concentrations in the aquatic environment (ngL-1). Sensitive modern analytical methods are then mandatory to accurately analyze them. A methodology based on solid-phase-microextraction (SPME), considered as a 'Green Chemistry' technique, followed by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) has been developed for the simultaneous analysis of 14 UV filters of different chemical nature in environmental and recreational waters. In-vial low-cost derivatization was carried out to improve chromatographic performance of phenolic compounds. The extraction parameters (fiber coating, extraction mode, and salt addition) were optimized by means of experimental designs in order to achieve reliable conditions. Finally, the SPME-GC-MS/MS method was validated in terms of linearity, accuracy and precision with LODs in the low ngL-1 level. Its application to the analysis of 28 different samples including sea, river, spa, swimming pool, and aquapark waters, enabled the detection of 11 target UV filters at concentration levels up to 540µgL-1, highlighting the presence of OCR in all analyzed samples and of 2EHMC (proposed to be considered as priority pollutant) in 79% of them.

Positive lists of cosmetic ingredients: Analytical methodology for regulatory and safety controls - A review.

Cosmetic products placed on the market and their ingredients, must be safe under reasonable conditions of use, in accordance to the current legislation. Therefore, regulated and allowed chemical substances must meet the regulatory criteria to be used as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products, and adequate analytical methodology is needed to evaluate the degree of compliance. This article reviews the most recent methods (2005-2015) used for the extraction and the analytical determination of the ingredients included in the positive lists of the European Regulation of Cosmetic Products (EC 1223/2009): comprising colorants, preservatives and UV filters. It summarizes the analytical properties of the most relevant analytical methods along with the possibilities of fulfilment of the current regulatory issues. The cosmetic legislation is frequently being updated; consequently, the analytical methodology must be constantly revised and improved to meet safety requirements. The article highlights the most important advances in analytical methodology for cosmetics control, both in relation to the sample pretreatment and extraction and the different instrumental approaches developed to solve this challenge. Cosmetics are complex samples, and most of them require a sample pretreatment before analysis. In the last times, the research conducted covering this aspect, tended to the use of green extraction and microextraction techniques. Analytical methods were generally based on liquid chromatography with UV detection, and gas and liquid chromatographic techniques hyphenated with single or tandem mass spectrometry; but some interesting proposals based on electrophoresis have also been reported, together with some electroanalytical approaches. Regarding the number of ingredients considered for analytical control, single analyte methods have been proposed, although the most useful ones in the real life cosmetic analysis are the multianalyte approaches.

Determination of dyes in cosmetic products by micro-matrix solid phase dispersion and liquid chromatography coupled to tandem mass spectrometry.

A simple method based on micro-matrix solid phase dispersion (MSPD) followed by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) has been developed for the rapid and simultaneous determination of nine regulated water-soluble dyes in personal care and decorative products. The proposed miniaturized extraction procedure was optimized by means of experimental designs in order to obtain the highest extraction efficiency. Under the optimal selected conditions, the method was validated showing satisfactory performance in terms of linearity, sensitivity, and intra-day and inter-day precision. Recoveries were evaluated in different cosmetic matrices and they can be considered quantitative with average values between 70 and 120% with relative standard deviations (RSD) lower than 15%. Finally, the validated method was applied to 24 samples of cosmetic and personal care products, including decorative makeup, lipsticks, lip gloss, toothpastes, regenerating creams, shampoos, and eye shadows, among others, to cover a broad range of commercial real samples. Seven of the analyzed dyes were detected, being declared all of them in the label list of ingredients. More than 50% of the samples contained at least two dyes. Tartrazine was the most frequently found (50% of the samples) at concentration levels of 0.243-79.9µgg(-1). Other targets were found in 1-9 samples, highlighting the presence of Quinoline at high concentration (>500µgg(-1)) in a toothpaste sample.

Optimization of an analytical methodology for the simultaneous determination of different classes of ultraviolet filters in cosmetics by pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry.

A methodology based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) followed by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) has been developed for the simultaneous analysis of different classes of UV filters including methoxycinnamates, benzophenones, salicylates, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, and others in cosmetic products. The extractions were carried out in 1mL extraction cells and the amount of sample extracted was only 100mg. The experimental conditions, including the acetylation of the PLE extracts to improve GC performance, were optimized by means of experimental design tools. The two main factors affecting the PLE procedure such as solvent type and extraction temperature were assessed. The use of a matrix matched approach consisting of the addition of 10µL of diluted commercial cosmetic oil avoided matrix effects. Good linearity (R(2)>0.9970), quantitative recoveries (>80% for most of compounds, excluding three banned benzophenones) and satisfactory precision (RSD<10% in most cases) were achieved under the optimal conditions. The validated methodology was successfully applied to the analysis of different types of cosmetic formulations including sunscreens, hair products, nail polish, and lipsticks, amongst others.

Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis of fragrance allergens, musks, phthalates and preservatives in baby wipes.

Baby wipes and wet toilet paper are specific hygiene care daily products used on newborn and children skin. These products may contain complexes mixtures of harmful chemicals. A method based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) has been developed for the simultaneous determination of sixty-five chemical compounds (fragrance allergens, preservatives, musks, and phthalates) in wipes and wet toilet paper for children. These compounds are legislated in Europe according Regulation EC No 1223/2009, being twelve of them banned for their use in cosmetics, and one of them, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), is banned in products intended for children under 3 years. Also, propyl-, and butylparaben will be prohibited in leave-on cosmetic products designed for application on the nappy area of children under 3 years from April 2015. PLE is a fast, simple, easily automated technique, which permits to integrate a clean-up step during the extraction process reducing analysis time and stages. The proposed PLE-based procedure was optimized on real non-spiked baby wipe samples by means of experimental design to study the influence on extraction of parameters such as extraction solvent, temperature, extraction time, and sorbent type. Under the selected conditions, the method was validated showing satisfactory linearity, and intra-day, and inter-day precision. Recoveries were between 80-115% for most of the compounds with relative standard deviations (RSD) lower than 15%. Finally, twenty real samples were analyzed. Thirty-six of the target analytes were detected, highlighting the presence of phenoxyethanol in all analyzed samples at high concentration levels (up to 0.8%, 800µgg(-1)). Methyl paraben (MeP), and ethyl paraben (EtP) were found in 40-50% of the samples, and the recently banned isobutyl paraben (iBuP) and isopropyl paraben (iPrP), were detected in one and seven samples, respectively, at concentrations between 0.093 and 247µgg(-1). In the case of phthalates, the forbidden phthalates dibutyl phtalate (DBP) and di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP) were also found in thirteen samples at low levels. All the samples contained fragrance allergens in many cases at high levels (up to 2400µgg(-1)) and three musks were detected in the samples. Excluding the banned compounds, all samples complied with the concentration limits established by the European Regulation although 25% of them did not fulfill the labeling requirements for fragrance allergens.

Development of a multianalyte method based on micro-matrix-solid-phase dispersion for the analysis of fragrance allergens and preservatives in personal care products.

An effective, simple and low cost sample preparation method based on matrix solid-phase dispersion (MSPD) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) or gas chromatography-triple quadrupole-mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) has been developed for the rapid simultaneous determination of 38 cosmetic ingredients, 25 fragrance allergens and 13 preservatives. All target substances are frequently used in cosmetics and personal care products and they are subjected to use restrictions or labeling requirements according to the EU Cosmetic Directive. The extraction procedure was optimized on real non-spiked rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products by means of experimental designs. The final miniaturized process required the use of only 0.1g of sample and 1 mL of organic solvent, obtaining a final extract ready for analysis. The micro-MSPD method was validated showing satisfactory performance by GC-MS and GC-MS/MS analysis. The use of GC coupled to triple quadrupole mass detection allowed to reach very low detection limits (low ng g(-1)) improving, at the same time, method selectivity. In an attempt to improve the chromatographic analysis of preservatives, the inclusion of a derivatization step was also assessed. The proposed method was applied to a broad range of cosmetics and personal care products (shampoos, body milk, moisturizing milk, toothpaste, hand creams, gloss lipstick, sunblock, deodorants and liquid soaps among others), demonstrating the extended use of these substances. The concentration levels were ranging from the sub parts per million to the parts per mill. The number of target fragrance allergens per samples was quite high (up to 16). Several fragrances (linalool, farnesol, hexylcinnamal, and benzyl benzoate) have been detected at levels >0.1% (1,000 µg g(-1)). As regards preservatives, phenoxyethanol was the most frequently found additive reaching quite high concentration (>1,500 µg g(-1)) in five cosmetic products. BHT was detected in eight samples, in two of them (a baby care product and a lipstick) at high concentrations (>1,000 µg g(-1)). Methyl paraben was also found at high levels (>1,700 µg g(-1)) in three leave-on samples. Finally, triclosan was found at the maximum concentration limit (0.3%) laid down by the European regulation in two deodorant samples, and the total paraben concentration was close to the maximum concentration permitted (0.8%) in one leave-on sample (body milk).

Determination of fungicides in white grape bagasse by pressurized liquid extraction and gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry.

Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) followed by gas chromatography-triple quadrupole-mass spectrometry (GC TQ-MS) were used for the rapid determination of 11 fungicides (metalaxyl, cyprodinil, procymidone, iprovalicarb, myclobutanyl, kresoxim-methyl, benalaxyl, fenhexamide, tebuconazole, iprodione and dimethomorph) in white grape bagasse. The extractions were optimized on real non-spiked samples by means of experimental design and the optimal conditions were selected to achieve the method validation. The PLE procedure showed much higher efficiency than UAE for the target fungicides. Under the selected extraction conditions, PLE showed satisfactory linearity, repeatability and reproducibility. Recoveries for the majority of studied fungicides were higher than 80% with relative standard deviations (RSD) lower than 12%. Limits of detection (LODs) for GC TQ-MS were very low, at the sub ngg(-1) for the majority of the target fungicides, well below the European maximum residue limits (MRLs) for wine and table grapes, and vine leaves. Eighteen white grape bagasse samples were analyzed and nine out of eleven targets were detected in the samples. Seven of them were detected in more than 50% of the samples and most samples contained at least four of the target analytes. The most frequently found compounds were tebuconazole and dimethomorph with concentrations between 1.6-130 and 2.0-1788ngg(-1), respectively. Some samples showed high levels of many of the studied fungicides (high ngg(-1), even µgg(-1) for cyprodinil, fenhexamide, iprodione and dimethomorph), but all of them below the European maximum residue limits (MRLs) for wine grapes.

Determination of isothiazolinone preservatives in cosmetics and household products by matrix solid-phase dispersion followed by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry.

In this work, the development of a new efficient methodology applying, for the first time, matrix solid phase dispersion (MSPD) for the determination of sensitizer isothiazolinone biocides in cosmetics and household products - 2-methyl-3-isothiazolinone (MI), 5-chloro-2-methyl-3-isothiazolinone (CMI), 1,2-benzisothiazolinone (BzI) and 2-octyl-3-isothiazolinone (OI) - is described. The main factors affecting the MSPD extraction procedure, the dispersive phase and the elution solvent, are assessed and optimized through a multicategorical experimental design, using a real cosmetic sample. The most suitable extraction conditions comprise the use of 2g of florisil as dispersive phase and 5 mL of methanol as elution solvent. Subsequently, the extract is readily analyzed by HPLC-MS/MS without any further clean-up or concentration steps. Method performance was evaluated demonstrating to have a broad linear range (R(2)>0.9980) and limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) at the low nanogram per gram level, which are well below the required limits for UE regulation compliance. Satisfactory recoveries above 80%, except for MI (mean values close to 60%), were obtained. In all cases, the method precision (% RSD) was lower than 7%, making this low cost extraction method reliable for routine control. The validated methodology was finally applied to the analysis of a wide variety of cosmetics and household products. Most of the real samples analyzed have been shown to comply with the current European Cosmetic Regulation, although the results obtained for some rinse-off cosmetics (e.g. baby care products) revealed high isothiazolinone content.

Analysis of multi-class preservatives in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics by matrix solid-phase dispersion.

Matrix solid-phase extraction has been successfully applied for the determination of multi-class preservatives in a wide variety of cosmetic samples including rinse-off and leave-on products. After extraction, derivatization with acetic anhydride, and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis were performed. Optimization studies were done on real non-spiked and spiked leave-on and rinse-off cosmetic samples. The selection of the most suitable extraction conditions was made using statistical tools such as ANOVA, as well as factorial experimental designs. The final optimized conditions were common for both groups of cosmetics and included the dispersion of the sample with Florisil (1:4), and the elution of the MSPD column with 5 mL of hexane/acetone (1:1). After derivatization, the extract was analyzed without any further clean-up or concentration step. Accuracy, precision, linearity and detection limits were evaluated to assess the performance of the proposed method. The recovery studies on leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics gave satisfactory values (>78% for all analytes in all the samples) with an average relative standard deviation value of 4.2%. The quantification limits were well below those set by the international cosmetic regulations, making this multi-component analytical method suitable for routine control. The analysis of a broad range of cosmetics including body milk, moisturizing creams, anti-stretch marks creams, hand creams, deodorant, shampoos, liquid soaps, makeup, sun milk, hand soaps, among others, demonstrated the high use of most of the target preservatives, especially butylated hydroxytoluene, methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.

Determination of suspected fragrance allergens in cosmetics by matrix solid-phase dispersion gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis.

An effective low cost sample preparation methodology for the determination of regulated fragrance allergens in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics has been developed applying, for the first time, matrix solid-phase dispersion (MSPD) to this kind of analytes and samples. The selection of the most suitable extraction conditions was made using statistical tools such as ANOVA, as well as a factorial multifactor experimental design. These studies were carried out using real cosmetic samples. In the final conditions, 0.5 of sample, previously mixed with 1g of anhydrous Na(2)SO(4), were blended with 2g of dispersive sorbent (Florisil), and the MSPD column was eluted with 5 mL of hexane/acetone (1:1). The extract was then analyzed by GC-MS without any further clean-up or concentration step. Accuracy, precision, linearity and detection limits (LODs) were evaluated to assess the performance of the proposed method. Quantitative recoveries (>75%) were obtained and RSD values were lower than 10% in all cases. The quantification limits were well below those set by the international cosmetic regulations, making this multi-component analytical method suitable for routine control. In addition, the MSPD method can be implemented in any laboratory at low cost since it does not require special equipment. Finally, a wide variety of cosmetic products were analyzed. All the samples contained several of the target cosmetic ingredients, with and average number of seven. The total fragrance allergen content was in general quite high, even in baby care products, with values close to or up to 1%, for several samples, although the actual European Cosmetic Regulation was fulfilled.

Multicomponent analytical methodology to control phthalates, synthetic musks, fragrance allergens and preservatives in perfumes.

A simple, fast, robust and reliable multicomponent analytical method applicable in control laboratories with a high throughput level has been developed to analyze commercial brands of perfumes. Contents of 52 cosmetic ingredients belonging to different chemical families can be determined in a single run. Instrumental linearity, precision of the method and recovery studies in real samples showed excellent results, so that quantification by external calibration can be effectively applied. Relevant limits of detection and quantification were obtained for all the targets considered, far below the legal requirements and amply adequate for its accurate analytical control. A survey of 70 commercial perfumes and colognes has been performed, in order to verify whether these products complied with the recent changes in European legislation: regarding the maxima allowed concentrations of the ingredients and/or ingredient labelling. All samples contained some of the target ingredients. Several samples do not comply with the regulations concerning the presence of phthalates. Musks data confirmed the trend about the replacement of nitromusks by polycyclic musks; as well as the noticeable introduction of macrocyclic musks in the perfumes composition. The prohibited musk moskene has been detected in one sample in an appreciable concentration. The average number of fragrance allergens is twelve per sample; their presence must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds the 0.001%, but values higher than 1% have been found in some samples. Preservatives data show that parabens, although ubiquitous in other cosmetic products, are not widely used in perfumery. In contrast, the presence of BHT is indeed widespread. The degree of compliance with the European Regulation on the labelling has been evaluated in a subset of samples, and only about the 38% of the perfumes were properly labelled for the allergens tested.

Analysis of regulated suspected allergens in waters.

Fragrance suspected allergens including those regulated by the EU Directive 76/768/EEC have been determined in different types of waters using solid-phase microextraction (SPME) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The procedure was based on headspace sampling (HS-SPME) using polydimethylsiloxane/divinylbenzene (PDMS/DVB) fibers and has been optimized by an experimental design approach. The method performance has been studied showing good linearity (R ≥ 0.994) as well as good intra-day and inter-day precision (RSD ≤ 12%). Detection limits (S/N=3) ranged from 0.001 to 0.3 ng mL(-1). Reliability was demonstrated through the quantitative recoveries of the compounds in real water samples, including baby bathwaters, swimming pool waters, and wastewaters. The absence of matrix effects allowed quantification of the compounds by external aqueous calibration. The analysis of 35 samples of different types of waters showed the presence of suspected allergens in all the analyzed samples. All targets were found in the samples, with the exception of methyl eugenol and amyl cinnamic alcohol. Highest concentrations of suspected allergens were present in baby bathwaters, containing from 5 to 15 of the compounds at concentrations ranging from few pg mL(-1) to several hundreds of ng mL(-1).

Development of a solid phase dispersion-pressurized liquid extraction method for the analysis of suspected fragrance allergens in leave-on cosmetics.

A new method based on solid phase dispersion-pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) has been developed for the determination of 26 suspected fragrance allergens (all the regulated in the EU Cosmetics Directive amenable by GC, as well as pinene and methyleugenol) in cosmetic samples. The effects of the temperature, extraction time and solvent, and dispersing sorbent, affecting the whole proposed procedure, have been evaluated using a multifactor strategy. The optima conditions after the analysis of main and second order effects entailed the extraction at 120°C for 15 min, using hexane/acetone as solvent, and florisil as dispersing sorbent. The method performance has been studied, showing good linearity (R≥0.996) as well as good precision (RSD≤10%). Detection limits (S/N=3) ranged from 0.000001 to 0.0002% (w/w), values far below the established restrictions as regard labelling in the European Cosmetics Regulation. Reliability was demonstrated through the quantitative recoveries of all the studied compounds. The absence of matrix effects allowed quantification of the compounds by calibration with standard solutions. The analysis of 10 samples (several moisturizing and anti-wrinkle creams and lotions, hand creams, and sunscreen and after-sun creams), covering very different matrices, showed the presence of suspected allergens in all the analyzed samples; in fact, half of the samples contained an elevated number of them. Although the ubiquity of these compounds was demonstrated, labelling was in all cases in consonance with the European Cosmetics Regulation.