Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin.

BACKGROUND: Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated. OBJECTIVES: To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin. METHODS: An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling. RESULTS: Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control. CONCLUSIONS: This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Distinctive clinical and histological characteristics of atrophic and hypertrophic facial photoageing.

BACKGROUND: Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes which occur following chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Amongst White Northern Europeans, facial photoageing appears as distinct clinical phenotypes: 'hypertrophic' photoageing (HP) and 'atrophic' photoageing (AP). Deep, coarse wrinkles predominate in individuals with HP, whereas those with AP have relatively smooth, unwrinkled skin with pronounced telangiectasia. AP individuals have an increased propensity for developing keratinocyte cancers. OBJECTIVES: To investigate whether histological differences underlie these distinct phenotypes of facial photoageing. METHODS: Facial skin biopsies were obtained from participants with AP (10 M, 10 F; mean age: 78.7 years) or HP (10 M, 10 F; mean age: 74.5 years) and were assessed histologically and by immunohistochemistry. RESULTS: Demographic characterization revealed 95% of AP subjects, as compared to 35% with HP, were Fitzpatrick skin type I/II; of these, 50% had a history of one or more keratinocyte cancers. There was no history of keratinocyte cancers in the HP cohort. Analysis of UVR-induced mitochondrial DNA damage confirmed that all volunteers had received similar lifetime cumulative doses of sun exposure. Histologically, male AP had a significantly thicker epidermis than did AP females or those of either sex with HP. HP facial skin exhibited severe solar elastosis, whereas in AP facial skin, solar elastosis was apparent only in females. Loss of papillary dermal fibrillin-rich microfibrils occurred in all HP and AP female subjects, but not in AP males. Furthermore, male AP had a significant reduction in collagen VII at the dermal-epidermal junction than did AP females or those of either sex with HP. CONCLUSIONS: This study provides further evidence that AP and HP represent distinct clinical and histological entities. Knowledge of these two phenotypes is clinically relevant due to the increased prevalence of keratinocyte cancers in those - particularly males - with the AP phenotype.

Organization of the dermal matrix impacts the biomechanical properties of skin.

BACKGROUND: Human skin has the crucial roles of maintaining homeostasis and protecting against the external environment. Skin offers protection against mechanical trauma due to the reversible deformation of its structure; these biomechanical properties are amenable to dynamic testing using noninvasive devices. OBJECTIVES: To characterize the biomechanical properties of young, black African/African-Caribbean and white Northern European skin from different anatomical sites, and to relate underlying skin architecture to biomechanical function. METHODS: Using cutometry and ballistometry, the biomechanical properties of buttock and dorsal forearm skin were determined in black African/African-Caribbean (n = 18) and white Northern European (n = 20) individuals aged 18-30 years. Skin biopsies were obtained from a subset of the volunteers (black African/African-Caribbean, n = 5; white Northern European, n = 6) and processed for histological and immunohistochemical detection of the major elastic fibre components and fibrillar collagens. RESULTS: We have determined that healthy skin from young African and white Northern European individuals has similar biomechanical properties (F3): the skin is resilient (capable of returning to its original position following deformation, R1), exhibits minimal fatigue (R4) and is highly elastic (R2, R5 and R7). At the histological level, skin with these biomechanical properties is imbued with strong interdigitation of the rete ridges at the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) and candelabra-like arrays of elastic fibres throughout the papillary dermis. Dramatic disruption to this highly organized arrangement of elastic fibres, effacement of the rete ridges and alterations to the alignment of the fibrillar collagens is apparent in the white Northern European forearm and coincides with a marked decline in biomechanical function. CONCLUSIONS: Maintenance of skin architecture - both epidermal morphology and elastic fibre arrangement - is essential for optimal skin biomechanical properties. Disruption to underlying skin architecture, as observed in the young white Northern European forearm, compromises biomechanical function.

Geographical ancestry is a key determinant of epidermal morphology and dermal composition.

BACKGROUND: Geographical ancestry plays a key role in determining the susceptibility of human skin to external insults and dermatological disease. Despite this, studies of skin from individuals of diverse geographical ancestry focus primarily on epidermal pigmentation. Few reports characterize the gross morphology and composition of the dermis and dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). OBJECTIVES: To characterize epidermal morphology and dermal composition in skin from individuals of diverse geographical ancestry. METHODS: Immunohistochemical techniques were used to assess epidermal morphology and protein composition of the DEJ and dermal extracellular matrix in photoprotected skin from young African, Eurasian and Far East Asian individuals (n = 7 per group; age 18-30 years). RESULTS: The epidermis of African skin was thicker, with deeper rete ridges and a more convoluted DEJ than Eurasian and Far East Asian skin. Compared with Eurasians, protein composition of the DEJ was collagen VII poor in African and Far East Asian skin (P < 0·001 and P < 0·01, respectively); the dermis of African skin was enriched in fibrillar collagens (P < 0·05), but was relatively elastin poor (P < 0·05). African dermis was abundant in fibrillin-rich microfibrils and fibulin-5 (P < 0·001 and P < 0·001, respectively) compared with Eurasian and Far East Asian skin. CONCLUSIONS: We demonstrate that fundamental differences exist in skin structure and composition in individuals of diverse geographical ancestry. Disparate environmental pressures encountered by ancestral human populations living at different latitudes may have driven adaptations in skin structure and composition. Further research into the functional significance and clinical consequences of these differences is warranted.

A new wrinkle on old skin: the role of elastic fibres in skin ageing.

Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in the absence of additional biological, chemical and physical factors. The clinical features of intrinsically aged skin are not usually evident until old age when, although smooth and unblemished, the skin surface appears pale and is characterized by fine wrinkles with occasional exaggerated expression lines. Functionally, intrinsically aged skin is dry and less elastic than more youthful skin. In contrast, extrinsically aged skin is exemplified by deep, coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation and a marked loss of elasticity and recoil. The two major environmental influences which induce extrinsic ageing are: (i) chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation (termed photoageing) and (ii) smoking. This review discusses the changes associated with the ageing process in the skin, with particular emphasis on the role played by the elastic fibre network in maintaining dermal function. The review concludes with a discussion of a short-term assay for independent assessment of the efficacy of anti-ageing cosmetic products using the elastic fibre component fibrillin-1 as a biomarker of extracellular matrix repair.