Role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection: A review of clinical evidence.

Carotenoids, a class of phytonutrients, have been well established to boost skin's innate resistance against ultraviolet (UV) B-induced erythema (sunburn). Many of the published clinical studies thus far have focused on the measurement of erythema as the primary clinical indicator of skin protection against UVB radiation. More recent studies have shown that carotenoid supplementation provides even more skin protection than previously shown as new clinical and molecular endpoints beyond UVB-induced erythema have been reported. These recent studies have demonstrated that carotenoids also provide photoprotection against UVA-induced pigmentation and inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress such as intercellular adhesion molecule 1, heme oxygenase-1, and matrix metalloproteinases 1 and 9. This article provides a comprehensive review of the published clinical evidence on skin benefits of carotenoids in the last five decades and indicates new perspectives on the role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection.

Recent Advances in Studies of Skin Color and Skin Cancer.

The relationship between skin color and skin cancer is well established: the less melanin in one's skin the greater the risk for developing skin cancer. This review is in two parts. First, we summarize the current understanding of the cutaneous pigmentary system and trace melanin from its synthesis in the pigment cell melanosomes through its transfer to keratinocytes. We also present new methods for reducing melanin content in hyper-pigmented areas of skin such as solar lentigenes, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Second, we present evidence that at least one mechanism for the development of metastatic melanoma and other solid tumors is fusion and hybridization of leucocytes such as macrophages with primary tumor cells. In this scenario, hybrid cells express both the chemotactic motility of the leucocyte and the de-regulated cell division of the tumor cell, causing the cells to migrate a deadly journey to lymph nodes, distant organs, and tissues.

Orally administered mixed carotenoids protect human skin against ultraviolet A-induced skin pigmentation: A double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical trial.

BACKGROUND: Photoprotection of human skin is determined as the capacity of sunscreens to prevent ultraviolet (UV) B radiation-induced erythema and UVA radiation-induced pigmentation. It is unequivocal that, in addition to sunscreens, oral supplementation with carotenoids can protect human skin against UVB radiation-induced erythema. It is not known if this is also the case for UVA radiation-induced pigmentation. OBJECTIVE: To clinically evaluate the photoprotective effects of daily supplementation with carotenoids against UVA radiation-induced pigmentation. METHODS: In this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 60 subjects (Fitzpatrick types II-IV) were randomized to receive Nutrilite™ Multi Carotene supplement or placebo for 12 weeks. UVB-induced minimal erythemal dose (MED), UVA-induced minimal persistent pigmentation dose (MPPD) and skin carotenoid levels were measured at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks of intervention. Skin color was evaluated by expert clinical graders and by colorimetry. Carotenoid levels in the skin were measured by the Biozoom® device. RESULTS: In the intervention group, a significant increase in comparison with the placebo group was observed in (a) skin carotenoid levels, (b) UVB-induced MED, and (c) UVA-induced MPPD values obtained by colorimetry. CONCLUSION: Daily supplementation with carotenoids protects human skin against both UVB-induced erythema and UVA-induced pigmentation.

Cytidine decreases melanin content in a reconstituted three-dimensional human epidermal model.

The process of melanin biosynthesis and its distribution throughout the skin is regulated by complex processes involving several enzymes in melanocytes. Recently, Diwakar et al. demonstrated that cytidine-a sialyltransferase inhibitor, 6'-sialyllactose (6'-SL) and 3'-sialyllactose (3'-SL) inhibited melanogenesis and melanosome transfer process. In this study, we have furthered this research, considering cytidine as a commercially viable and safe option over 6'-SL and 3'-SL. The efficacy of 2% w/v cytidine was studied in MelanoDerm™ skin equivalents in comparison with the positive control 1% w/v kojic acid and the vehicle control. Both the positive control and cytidine demonstrated a significant reduction in melanin content relative to the vehicle control. These experiments conclude that cytidine can effectively reduce melanin content in a skin equivalence assay and suggests that cytidine may be a good candidate for a skin lightening agent for human skin.

Clinical evaluation of the lightening effect of cytidine on hyperpigmented skin.

BACKGROUND: Melanocytes, which reside in the basal layer of the epidermis, produce the pigment melanin in cytoplasmic organelles known as melanosomes. Melanosomes are transferred to keratinocytes which provide the color in our skin. Recently, Diwakar et  al reported the crucial roles of protein glycosylation in both melanogenesis and melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, and each was inhibited by the nucleotide cytidine. OBJECTIVE: The main objective of this study was to determine the clinical effects of topical application of cytidine to the hyperpigmented regions of the face in a group of human volunteers. METHODS: A randomized, vehicle-controlled study was conducted for 12 weeks on healthy Korean female subjects. Cytidine was formulated into the lotion at concentrations of 2%, 3%, and 4% (w/w) and compared to the vehicle control formulation. The clinical outcomes were evaluated by performing visual assessment grading, measuring melanin index, skin brightness, and skin color parameters. In vitro skin penetration studies were conducted using Franz cell chambers for the 2% cytidine test formulation. RESULTS: The test group showed significant improvements in the visual assessment scores, melanin index, skin brightness, and skin color compared to the control group. Although significant dose-dependent improvements were seen in the clinical study, the in vitro Franz cell studies indicated that the clinical efficacy and potency of cytidine might be further enhanced by formulating a better topical delivery system, which will be the goal of our future studies. CONCLUSIONS: This randomized, double-blind, 12-week clinical study successfully demonstrated the efficacy of cytidine on skin depigmentation in a dose-dependent manner.

The effects of heat on skin barrier function and in vivo dermal absorption.

Enhanced delivery of ingredients across the stratum corneum (SC) is of great interest for improving the efficacy of topically applied formulations. Various methods for improving dermal penetration have been reported including galvanic devices and micro-needles. From a safety perspective it is important that such approaches do not compromise SC barrier function. This study investigates the influence of topically applied heat in vivo on the dermal uptake and penetration of a model active, allantoin from gel and lotion formulations. A custom designed device was used to deliver 42°C for 30s daily to human subjects after application of two formulations containing allantoin. The results were compared with sites treated with formulations containing no active and no heat, and a control site. In addition to penetration of allantoin, the integrity of the SC was monitored using trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements. The results showed that just 30s of 42°C topically applied heat was enough to cause significantly more penetration of allantoin from the lotion formulation compared with no application of heat. TEWL data indicated that the integrity of the skin was not compromised by the treatment. However, the application of heat did not promote enhanced penetration of the active from the gel formulation. Vehicle composition is therefore an important factor when considering thermal enhancement strategies for targeting actives to the skin.