RESUMEN
An industry listed as one of the largest globally is the cosmetic industry. In recent years, this industry has shown growing interest in the application of natural ingredients providing advanced properties to cosmetic creams such as moisturizing, antioxidant, sun-protecting and antimicrobial effects. In this context, the present study concerns the production of cosmetic emulsions containing hippophae oil obtained via the methods of extraction, hydro-distillation and maceration using sunflower oil as the carrier oil. Firstly, an IR-ATR analysis was performed showing that the oils prepared were close to those commercially obtained. Then, the stability of the emulsions was tested over a time period of four months through measuring their pH and viscosity values with positive outcomes, and their antioxidant ability was also measured using the DPPH method. The latter one showed that hippophae oil greatly improves the antioxidant capacity. Moreover, based on the fact that sea buckthorn contains carotenoids, the SPF value of the emulsions was determined. The results showed that the addition of hippophae oil to the emulsions gave higher absorption in UV-Vis, thus higher SPF values. Py-GC/MS analysis was used to identify decomposition compounds in the produced oils. Among those, valuable compounds such as Ω-6, Ω-7 and Ω-9 fatty acids and many aldehydes were found by the decomposition of the oils.
RESUMEN
In the present study, a series of semisolid Oil in Water (O/W) emulsions containing different Curcumin (Cur) derivatives (Cur powder, Cur extract and Cur complexed with ß-cyclodextrin) in varying concentrations, were prepared. Initially, Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS), microscopy, pH and viscosity measurements were performed to evaluate their stability over time. Moreover, the effect of the active cosmetic substances on the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), antimicrobial and antioxidant properties of the prepared emulsions was investigated. It was observed that emulsions containing Cur extract and Cur ß-cyclodextrin complex presented great viscosity and pH stability for up to 90 days of storage contrary to the emulsions containing Cur powder which showed unstable behavior due to the formation of agglomerates. All samples presented SPF values between 2.6 and 3.2. The emulsions with Cur in all forms exhibited high antioxidant activity, whereas the emulsion containing Cur ß-cyclodextrin complex presented the highest value. Despite their improved stability and antioxidant activity, the emulsions containing Cur extract and Cur-ß-cyclodextrin exhibited a low percentage of antimicrobial activity against E. coli and Staphylococcus bacteria. Instead, the emulsions containing Cur powder presented a reduction rate over 90 % against E. coli and Staphylococcus colonies.
RESUMEN
In the present study, a chitosan (CS) derivative with the 2-(Methacryloyloxy)ethyl]dimethyl-(3-sulfopropyl)ammonium hydroxide (SDAEM) zwitterionic monomer was prepared through chemical modification. The successful synthesis of CS-SDAEM was confirmed by Fourier-transform Infrared (FTIR) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (1H-NMR) spectroscopies. Its crystallinity was studied by X-ray Diffraction (XRD), while in vitro cytotoxicity and cell viability assays established its biocompatibility. Filtered fresh pomegranate juice (PJ) was loaded in nanoparticles of neat CS and its derivative via ionic gelation method. Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) revealed nanoparticles sizes varying between 426 nm and 4.5 µm, indicating a size-dependence on the polymer concentration used during encapsulation. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with photodiode array and electrospray ionization mass spectrometry detection (LC-PDA-ESI/MS) revealed that PJ active compounds were successfully and in sufficient amounts encapsulated in the nanoparticles interior, whereas XRD indicated a crystalline structure alteration after nanoencapsulation. The resulted PJ-loaded nanoparticles were further utilized for the preparation of innovative O/W cosmetic emulsions. All produced emulsions exhibited good pH and viscosity stability for up to 90 days, while the sun protection factor (SPF) was enhanced due to the presence of the PJ. Enhanced antioxidant and antimicrobial properties due to the phenolic compounds of PJ were also observed.
RESUMEN
The aim of the present work is to evaluate the preparation of sunscreen emulsions based on chitosan (CS) nanoparticles with annatto, ultrafiltrated (UF) annatto, saffron, and ultrafiltrated saffron. Ionic gelation was used for the preparation of chitosan nanoparticles, while their morphological characteristics and physicochemical properties were evaluated via Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction (XRD) analysis, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and dynamic light scattering (DLS). Results showed that the prepared nanoparticles ranged from ~150 to ~500 nm and had a spherical or irregular shape. In the case of annatto and UF annatto, due to the formation of H-bonds, the sunscreen agents were amorphously dispersed within CS nanoparticles, while in the case of saffron and UF saffron, crystalline dispersion was observed. All encapsulated materials had good thermal stability as well as color stability. In a further step, sunscreen emulsions were prepared based on the formed CS-sunscreen nanoparticles and evaluated for their stability in terms of pH and viscosity, along with their ultraviolet (UV) radiation protection ability in terms of sun protection factor (SPF). All prepared emulsions showed low cytotoxicity and good storage stability for up to 90 days, while minimum sunscreen protection was observed with SPF values varying from 2.15 to 4.85.
