[Wrinkles analysis and representation by 2D imaging]. / Analyses et représentations des rides par imagerie 2D.

In clinical evaluation, digital photography is a valuable low-cost and easy to use tool to illustrate assessments; hence the temptation to use it for analysis purposes, particularly in the assessment of facial wrinkles (forehead wrinkles, crow's feet). We review different methods to quantify the volume from 2D images, most of them directly adapted from algorithms initially developed in 3D profilometry. The 3D representation of these photographs is also detailed using several examples. Finally, the limits and drawbacks of this 3D "pseudo quantification" are listed and compared with those usually found in classic profilometry.

[Digital photography as a scientific tool]. / La photographie numérique: un outil scientifique.

The remarkable development of digital photography has been possible thanks to joint advances in computer science and photography processing and retouching software. The scientific use of photography is now possible as long as its intrinsic limits are comprehended, particularly in the very specific time-limited structure of clinical trials. We list the two main limits inherent to this method: geometrical calibration and colorimetric calibration. These limitations are illustrated by numerous images used in our practice in Besançon during the last decade.

Use of the Reviscometer for measuring cosmetics-induced skin surface effects.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The Reviscometer RVM600 that measures resonance running time (RRT) has been shown to be inversely related to the skin stiffness. However, very few publications describe the use of this instrument for testing the effect of cosmetic products. METHODS: Slight xerotic skin condition was induced by using an alkaline soap for 1 week. Skin has then been rehydrated with a lotion or further dehydrated and dried with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Skin condition at the different stages of the study was evaluated by visual assessment for dryness and redness and by non-invasive methods (Corneometer, Cutometer, Reviscometer, Evaporimeter and squamometry). RESULTS: All methods showed highly significant changes after the slight drying phase with the soap usage. They illustrated skin repair after lotion treatment and further skin impairment after SLS application. Nevertheless, the Reviscometer was able to better statistically discriminate between the treatments (water, lotion, SLS) than the Cutometer . Measurement of the RRT along the transversal axis of the forearms was the most sensitive for differentiating between normal and dry skin and between the treatments on the basis of skin mechanical properties. CONCLUSION: The Reviscometer RVM600 is a sensitive instrument able to detect slight skin surface effect of cosmetics. Combined with published literature on the interpretation of RRT measurements on polymeric gel or in different skin conditions (elderly skin and photoaged skin), the Reviscometer looks to be a recommendable instrument to measure slight changes in SC stiffness/suppleness induced by cosmetic products.

Ceramide analogue 14S24 selectively recovers perturbed human skin barrier.

BACKGROUND: Topical ceramide application is an effective therapeutic approach in skin disorders with disturbed barrier function, including atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate ceramide analogue N-tetracosanoyl-(l)-serine tetradecyl ester (14S24) using a novel ex vivo model. METHODS: Freshly excised human skin was disrupted by lipid extraction, tape stripping and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) treatment. Barrier perturbation was evaluated by the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration and the penetration of model compound, theophylline (TH), assessed by microdialysis. The effect of topical 5% 14S24 was compared with a commercial formulation containing a skin lipid mixture (LR) and control formulation with no skin lipids (L). RESULTS: Both LR and 14S24 produced significant recovery of TEWL and TH penetration in extracted and tape-stripped skin with 14S24 being significantly more effective. In SLS-treated skin, 14S24 decreased TEWL but not TH penetration; LR was inactive. L improved skin hydration but not barrier characteristics. Weak correlation between TEWL and TH penetration was observed in extracted and tape-stripped skin but not in SLS-treated skin. CONCLUSIONS: Cutaneous microdialysis can serve as a useful tool for the evaluation of skin barrier recovery by topical formulations ex vivo whereas TEWL may not be an appropriate measure of skin barrier function in such studies. The excellent barrier repair activity of 14S24 could be beneficial in skin disorders with ceramide deficiency.

Assessment of effects of an additional dietary natural mineral water uptake on skin hydration in healthy subjects by dynamic barrier function measurements and clinic scoring.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: The skin protects the body's organs and tissues from damage and physical, chemical and bacteriological injuries. It also prevents the transcutaneous loss of water. The present study was conducted to assess the effects of additional dietary natural mineral water uptake on skin hydration and cutaneous well-being in subjects with dry skin. METHODS: Eighty subjects (44 women and 36 males, mean age 56+/-5.6 years) were included in the study, randomised per forearm and stratified by gender. Skin surface hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sorption-desorption test, skin colour, thickness and micro-relief were evaluated on the forearms. Clinical scoring of dryness, roughness and elasticity was performed by a dermatologist. RESULTS: An improvement of skin hydration was observed after additional water uptake, statistically modifying the hydration level as well as TEWL, the water-binding capacity of the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. Improvements of softness, smoothness and skin-moisturising effect were perceived by healthy subjects, and skin micro-relief was improved. CONCLUSION: We suggest that natural mineral water supplementation may be used in order to improve the hydration of skin dryness as a complementary cosmetic approach.

[Microdialysis of cutaneous free flaps to monitor results of maxillofacial surgery]. / Microdialyse et monitorage des lambeaux libres à palette cutanée en chirurgie maxillo-faciale.

The development of in vivo microdialysis has made it possible to monitor cutaneous free flaps in maxillo-facial surgery. A microprobe inserted in the free flap dermis collects a microdialysate enabling measurement of dermal metabolites such as glucose, lactate, pyruvate, or glycerol. The monitoring curves are predictive of ischemia-related tissue injury. Hourly measurements provide a reliable method for early diagnosis of venous or arterial thrombosis. Revision surgery can then be undertaken if needed to repair microanastomoses before clinical alteration. This technique has been compared with validated flaps monitoring systems such as temperature probe, transcutaneous oxygen tension monitoring, and laser Doppler flowmetry. Microdialysis has several advantages: objective measurements, different curves for venous and arterial thrombosis, early diagnosis. Accessibility to oral cavity or pharyngeal flaps requires careful clinical analysis (microprobe fixation, anatomy and choice of flap).

Skin ageing: a comparison between Chinese and European populations. A pilot study.

BACKGROUND: Although limited data are available, it is commonly considered that Europeans and Asians have different skin ageing features. OBJECTIVES: The present studies have been carried out to evaluate the influence of age and sun-exposure on the main clinical signs of Asian skin ageing. METHODS: One hundred and sixty Chinese and 160 French age-matched women (age range: 20-60 years old) were clinically examined and scored by the same dermatologist. Facial wrinkles (crow's-feet, glabella and perioral wrinkles) and pigmented spots (on face and hands) were assessed in situ and standardized photographs of the face were taken. Lifelong sun-exposure was estimated from answers to a questionnaire. Comparisons were made between 10-year age groups. RESULTS: Results show that, for each facial skin area, wrinkle onset is delayed by about 10 years in Chinese women as compared to French women. Facial wrinkling rate over the years is linear in French women and not linear in Chinese women who appear to experience a fast ageing process between age 40 and 50. Pigmented spot intensity is a much more important ageing sign in Chinese women (severe for 30% of women over 40) than in French women (severe for less than 8% of women, irrespective of age). CONCLUSION: These first results underline that main skin ageing features (wrinkles, spots) progress differently in the Chinese and French women we have studied. They require to be confirmed on broad multicentre studies involving larger cohorts.

Ex vivo cutaneous absorption assessmentof a stabilized ascorbic acid formulation using a microdialysis system.

BACKGROUND: Reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet light result in photocarcinogenic and photoaging changes in the skin. Antioxidants protect the skin from these insults. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to determine the ex vivo ascorbic acid penetration and its degradation in the skin after its topical application from an 8% new formulation. METHOD: Ascorbic acid was applied to human skin fragments. Ascorbic acid and its metabolites were collected by microdialysis and assessed by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. RESULTS: After topical application of the new formulation, the ascorbic acid level achieved was 8.5% higher than [corrected] times the normal tissue value. This high ascorbic acid dermal concentration remained constant if a topical application was made every 8 h. No degradation of ascorbic acid was detected. CONCLUSION: Ascorbic acid penetrates rapidly after its topical application. The persistent reservoir of ascorbic acid provides an important and attractive photoprotection strategy.