Modulation of skin pigmentation by the tetrapeptide PKEK: in vitro and in vivo evidence for skin whitening effects.

Uneven skin pigmentation is a significant cosmetic concern, and the identification of topically applicable molecules to address this issue is of general interest. We report that the tetrapeptide PKEK (Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys) can exert skin whitening effects based on one in vitro and four double-blinded vehicle-controlled in vivo studies. (i) Treatment of human keratinocytes with PKEK significantly reduced UVB-stimulated mRNA expression of interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8 and TNF-α and, most importantly, proopiomelanocorticotropin (POMC), i.e. a gene encoding the pigmentation-inducing soluble mediator α- (α-MSH). (ii) PKEK treatment significantly inhibited UVB-induced upregulation of genes encoding for IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α as well as POMC and tyrosinase in 10 healthy volunteers pretreated with PKEK for 4 weeks once daily. (iii) In a study enrolling 39 Caucasian women, facial pigment spots significantly faded after 6 weeks when PKEK was combined with the skin whitener sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP), whereas PKEK or SAP alone led to less pronounced fading of the pigment spots. (iv) Addition of PKEK enhanced the skin whitening potency of a SAP-containing preparation if applied for 8 weeks to the back of hands of 19 Caucasians. (v) 27 Japanese women were treated on their faces twice daily with an SAP only or a PKEK+SAP-containing formulation for 8 weeks. Application of PKEK+SAP significantly reduced skin pigmentation by 26% and by 18% according to SCINEXA score. We demonstrate that PKEK has the capacity to reduce UVB-induced skin pigmentation and may be suited to serve as a skin tone-modulating agent in cosmetic products.

Facial skin-lightening benefits of the tetrapeptide Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys on subjects with skin types V-VI living in South Africa.

BACKGROUND: Irregular skin pigmentation may be a substantial contributor to the signs of aging and to a person's lack of psychological well-being. Although a large number of skin-lightening agents are available, the opportunity exists to identify more efficacious agents, agents that target alternative biological mechanisms. AIMS: To provide clinical evidence of the skin-lightening effect of the tetrapeptide, Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys (PKEK), on subjects with skin types V-VI living in South Africa. METHODS: Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys was evaluated in a double-blind and vehicle-controlled clinical study using expert grading of digital images by comparing its effects in subjects with skin types V-VI suffering from facial melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. RESULTS: This study demonstrated the efficacy of PKEK on subjects with skin types V-VI. On comparing the two treatments, the skin-lightening peptide-containing formulation was significantly superior to the vehicle at 12 weeks on overall appearance (P < 0.05) and evenness of skin tone (P < 0.01). CONCLUSIONS: The tetrapeptide, PKEK, has proven skin-lightening benefits on skin discoloration from melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. These studies have been conducted on subjects with skin types V-VI living in South Africa, but we believe this technology to be suitable for all racial groups.

Bioactive tetrapeptide GEKG boosts extracellular matrix formation: in vitro and in vivo molecular and clinical proof.

The 'matrikine' concept claims that processing of the precursors for collagen results in the formation of peptides such as KTTKS which in turn augments extracellular matrix (ECM) production. In the present study, we show the development of an anti-ageing active from an in silico approach by molecular design resulting in the tetrapeptide GEKG derived from ECM proteins. The efficacy of the peptide to significantly induce collagen production of the protein level and mRNA level has been demonstrated in vitro in human dermal fibroblasts and in vivo in a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study enroling 10 volunteers with an average age of 48.2 years. The effect of GEKG on facial wrinkles was studied in 30 volunteers using state of the art fringe projection, which allows determination of surface roughness in three-dimensions. Here, only GEKG but not the placebo was able to significantly decrease skin roughness as a measure for wrinkles.