Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits.

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.

Clinical and metagenomic profiling of hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations.

INTRODUCTION: Acne is one of the most common skin concerns of unknown etiology, often connected to the menstrual cycle in women, and possibly to the microbial profile and function. OBJECTIVE: We aimed to investigate how hormonal fluctuation affects hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations in relation to skin clinical parameters and microbial profiles. METHODS: We evaluated skin features by using biophysical and topographical tools. For microbial profiling, we sequenced facial skin microbiota and associated the findings with the skin clinical parameters during the different phases of the menstrual cycle. RESULTS: We identified differences between and within hormonal phases in women of Chinese and Caucasian origin. Changes were discovered in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, hydration level, and pore volume. The most abundant identifiable genera in both ethnicities were Cutibacterium, Staphylococcus, and Streptococcus, without any significant abundant differences within the menstrual cycle. Interestingly, 11 bacterial metabolic pathways were downregulated in Chinese compared to Caucasian skin during the follicular phase. The majority of these pathways were associated with skin redox balance, perhaps indicating a weaker oxidative stress response in Chinese versus Caucasian skin. Novosphingobium taxa were increased in the Chinese skin microbiome, which has been reported to protect skin from pollution-mediated oxidative stress. CONCLUSION: Thus, this pilot study explored some of the clinical and metagenomic changes in acne-prone skin, and provide guidance to tailor-personalized skin care regimes during the menstrual cycle. Also, the skin redox status in acne-prone skin, provides more opportunity to tailor-personalized skin care regimes.

A novel UV-fluorescence approach to assess the long wear efficacy of foundations.

BACKGROUND: The long wear properties of foundations are regarded as a must-have in terms of claims. Here, we propose an instrumental approach based on UV-fluorescence imaging as an alternative to clinical grading methods. METHODS: A method was developed, with UV-fluorescence images captured with the Visia CR as a first step, followed by images analysis using Image-Pro plus. Repeated-measures correlation was used to assess the degree of association between the UV-fluorescence method and a grading method when removing the foundation incrementally from the skin using wipes. Thresholds to ascertain whether a foundation pass or fail long-wearing using the newly developed method were established using a mixed linear model and cross-validated using two subsets of a panel of 20 women. RESULTS: The method could measure incremental removal of foundation using wipes, in a similar fashion to a grading method, as outlined with repeated measures correlation (r = -.86). Pass/fail thresholds established with the mixed linear model were tested versus the grading method when assessing a foundation under real conditions for a duration over 24 hours, with minimal discrepancies between the two methods. CONCLUSION: By capitalising on foundation physical/chemical properties, the proposed method allows to assess their long wear properties, irrespective of basal skin tone or foundation shade. It offers the advantage of appealing visuals for efficacy and to be less resource intensive than a clinical grading approach.

Tracking skin colour and wrinkle changes during cosmetic product trials using smartphone images.

BACKGROUND: To explore how the efficacy of product trials for skin cosmetics can be improved through the use of consumer-level images taken by volunteers using a conventional smartphone. MATERIALS AND METHODS: 12 women aged 30-60 years participated in a product trial and had close-up images of the cheek and temple regions of their faces taken with a high-resolution Antera 3D CS camera at the start and end of a 4-week period. Additionally, they each had "selfies" of the same regions of their faces taken regularly throughout the trial period. Automatic image analysis to identify changes in skin colour used three kinds of colour normalisation and analysis for wrinkle composition identified edges and calculated their magnitude. RESULTS: Images taken at the start and end of the trial acted as baseline ground truth for normalisation of smartphone images and showed large changes in both colour and wrinkle magnitude during the trial for many volunteers. CONCLUSIONS: Results demonstrate that regular use of selfie smartphone images within trial periods can add value to interpretation of the efficacy of the trial.

The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging.

Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated "genome-microbiome-exposome" effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.

Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine.

BACKGROUND: The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product. AIMS: In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one. METHODS: Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream). RESULTS: Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles. CONCLUSION: These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

DermaTOP Blue and Antera 3D as methods to assess cosmetic solutions targeting eyelid sagging.

BACKGROUND: As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established. We investigate the use of the DermaTOP fringe projector and Antera 3D Camera to this end. METHODS: Eyelid topographic measurements were collected on 20 female volunteers aged 50-75 years with the DermaTOP and Antera 3D. The DermaTOP and Antera 3D measurements were assessed for reproducibility and product effect detection capabilities. RESULTS: The DermaTOP and Antera 3D successfully measured sagging feature volume, demonstrated reproducibility of measurement and furthermore were suitably sensitive to allow for detection of sagging feature volume reduction after a single application of aqueous tightening serum. DermaTOP parameters were found to moderately correlated with the Antera 3D parameters. CONCLUSION: Both the DermaTOP and Antera 3D allow for quantitative measurement of eyelid sagging feature volume and in-turn permit evaluation of anti-ageing cosmetic preparations targeting the eyelid.