New analysis methods for skin fine-structure via optical image and development of 3D skin Cycloscan(™).

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: This study was conducted to develop methods for measuring skin fine-structure via optical image and apparatus for photographing to analyze efficacy of anti-aging. METHODS: We developed an apparatus named 3D Skin CycloScan(™) to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetics by imagification of skin fine-structure such as wrinkles, pores, and skin texture. The semi-sphere shaped device has 12 different sequential flashing light sources captures optical image simultaneously in one second to exclude the influence of the subject's movement. The normal map that is extracted through shape from shading method is composed of face contour and skin fine-structure parts. When the low-frequency component which is the result of the Gaussian Filter application is eliminated, we can get only skin fine-structure. In this normal map, it is possible to extract two-dimensional vector map called direction map and we can regulate the intensity of the image of wrinkles, pores, and skin texture after filtering the direction map. We performed a clinical study to apply this new apparatus and methods to evaluate an anti-aging efficacy of cosmetics visually and validate with other conventional methods. RESULTS: After using anti-aging cream including 2% adenosine for 8 weeks, the total amount of fine wrinkle around eye area detected via 3D Skin CycloScan(™) was reduced by 12.1%. Also, wrinkles on crow's feet measured by PRIMOS COMPACT(®) (GFMesstechnik GmbH, Germany) reduced 11.7%. CONCLUSION: According to an aspect of the present study, by changing the direction of the lights toward to subject's skin, we can obtain the information about the fine structures present on the skin such as wrinkles, pores, or skin texture and represent it as an image.

Analysis of yellowish skin color from an optical image and the development of 3D Skin Chroma Diagram(™).

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: This study was conducted to define yellowish skin color, which is a major concern of Asian women, and to develop a 3D skin-pigment color model. METHODS: A total of 22 Korean females were enrolled in this study. These women were asked to use a functional cosmetic product with whitening agents for 8 weeks. We photographed the subsurface reflection of each subject's face using polarized light. The color of the subsurface reflection is a result of diffusive light transports that are attenuated by various skin pigments such as melanin, hemoglobin, and skin base colors. In this subsurface photo image, we eliminated the color effects of melanin and hemoglobin distribution by skin color analysis resulting in skin base color. Based on a variety of observed skin base colors from which the melanin and hemoglobin pigments have been removed, we defined a standard skin color for the entire subject group, and then, we gained a particular yellowish skin color by excluding the standard skin color from the skin base color again. RESULTS: After applying whitening cosmetic products, the amount of melanin and hemoglobin was reduced by 7.3% and 18.6%, respectively. Also, through using our new analysis method, yellowish skin color has been improved by 2.8%. We showed the improvement on 3D Skin Chroma Diagram(™) three-dimensionally. CONCLUSION: It became possible to diagnose yellowish color on human skin and to analyze the improvement in skin tone both quantitatively and visually.

Skin dryness in apparently healthy human skin is associated with decreased expression of bleomycin hydrolase in the stratum corneum.

BACKGROUND: Maintenance of water balance in the stratum corneum (SC) is determined by the content of intercellular lipids and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) in corneocytes. AIM: To investigate the association between the NMFs and (pro)filaggrin and the proteases responsible for the processing of (pro)filaggrin to NMFs in the SC of hydrated and dry skin areas of healthy human subjects. METHODS: The SC hydration state and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured using a Corneometer and a Tewameter, respectively. Proteases, (pro)filaggrin and NMFs were extracted from SC samples obtained by tape-stripping of the tested skin. Expression levels of (pro)filaggrin were determined by dot blotting and western blotting, and total NMFs by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography. Expression of the proteases caspase-14, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase was measured by western blotting. RESULTS: The levels of (pro)filaggrin were not significantly different between hydrated and dry skin, whereas the level of total NMFs was significantly reduced in dry skin. A negative correlation between (pro)filaggrin and NMFs was found in dry skin (Pearson correlation coefficient r = - 0.57, *P < 0.05). Bleomycin hydrolase expression was significantly decreased in the SC of dry skin. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that the low hydration state of dry skin may be due to the reduction in (pro)filaggrin degradation caused by decreased bleomycin hydrolase expression.

The seasonal variation in skin hydration, sebum, scaliness, brightness and elasticity in Korean females.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Age, gender, regional, and ethnic differences influence skin conditions. The purpose of this study was to observe the effects of environments, especially the air temperature, relative humidity, air pressure, duration of sunshine, and precipitation on skin, and the seasonal variation in skin hydration, sebum, scales, brightness, and elasticity in Korean females. METHODS: The study included 89 Korean subjects, aged 29.7 ± 6.2 years. The five skin biophysical parameters (skin hydration, sebum, scales, brightness, and elasticity) were measured at six sites: forehead, under the eye, frontal cheek, crow's foot, lateral cheek, and inner forearm. Skin hydration was measured using the Corneometer® CM 825. Skin sebum was measured with Sebumeter® SM 815. Skin scaliness was measured with Visioscan® VC 98. Skin brightness (L* value) was measured by using Spectrophotometer. A suction chamber device, Cutometer® MPA 580, was used to measure the skin elasticity. The measurements were performed every month for 13 months, from April 2007 to April 2008. RESULTS: There were significantly seasonal variations in environmental factors. The air temperature was the lowest in January (-1.7°C), and the highest in August (26.5°C). The relative humidity was the lowest in February (46%), and the highest in July and August (75%). There was a negative correlation between skin scaliness and three environmental factors such as air temperature, relative humidity, and highest precipitation. There was a positive correlation between skin scaliness and two environmental factors such as air pressure and duration of sunshine. Elasticity was correlated with air temperature positively and with air pressure negatively. CONCLUSION: The correlations shown between the skin biophysical parameters and environmental factors demonstrate that the skin biophysical parameters are affected by environmental factors.

Effect of the regional environment on the skin properties and the early wrinkles in young Chinese women.

BACKGROUND: There are ethnic differences in the skin characteristics, also the skin is susceptible to be influenced by the external environment such as UV radiation and the climates. It can be shown that the skin in same race or twins varies by the environment. OBJECTIVES: This study was designed to investigate the skin characteristics and the early wrinkles of young Chinese women from four different regions, and to identify the correlation among the wrinkles, the other skin characteristics, and environmental conditions. METHODS: A total of 441 healthy Chinese women aged between 20 and 35 years participated in the study: 110 from Beijing, 110 from Shanghai, 111 from Wuhan, and 110 from Guangzhou. The skin hydration, sebum contents, TEWL, pH, elasticity, and wrinkles were measured on the crow's feet area. RESULTS: There were regional differences in the skin characteristics and the wrinkles. Beijing women had dry skin and more wrinkles, but Guangzhou women had high sebum contents, low pH, and less wrinkles (P < 0.01). Shanghai women's TEWL and Wuhan's women's skin elasticity were higher compared with that of women from other regions. The wrinkles' form (area, depth, and length) was different from region to region. Beijing women's wrinkles were deep and large, but Guangzhou women's wrinkles were shallow and small. The skin physical parameters that influenced the wrinkles were low sebum content and hydration, high TEWL, and pH (P < 0.05). CONCLUSION: In the Chinese women aged 20-35 years, the skin was influenced by the climates, so they had regionally a different skin. The skin hydration, sebum contents, TEWL, and pH can affect the early wrinkle formation than skin elasticity.

Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components.

OBJECTIVES: As the 'Dry Skin Cycle' produces continuous deterioration, cosmetic xerosis (flaky, dry skin) is one of the major concerns to most consumers. The purpose of this study was to investigate the moisturizing effect of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion components. There are numerous types of oils, waxes, polyols and surfactants used as ingredients in skincare products. However, the moisturizing effect of each ingredient and understanding each use to make an effective moisturizing products are still not well understood. METHODS: To provide answers to these questions, we investigated the moisturizing effect of widely used 41 components (four different classes) in a simple O/W emulsion using capacitance methods. 106 different single oils, and combinations of oil with oil, wax, humectants, and surfactant were formulated and tested. RESULTS: In this study, we found that most of the O/W emulsion components had hydration effects on the skin. (i) The average relative water content increase (RWCI) rate of a single oil-based emulsion was 11.8 ± 5.2% (SE) and 7.9 ± 6.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (ii) An oil combination emulsion showed an average RWCI rate similar to that of a single oil-based emulsion, 12.6 ± 6.0% (SE) and 12.1 ± 6.4% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (iii) A combination of waxes with oil showed an average RWCI rate of 16 ± 5.6% (SE) and 12.4 ± 4.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (iv) Humectant combinations showed the highest average RWCI rate 28 ± 7.3% (SE) and 22.2 ± 7.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (v) Surfactant combinations had an average RWCI of 10.8 ± 4.5% (SE) and 6.0 ± 4.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. CONCLUSION: Interestingly, it was difficult to find moisturizing power differences among samples in the same group. Only the humectants group showed significant differences among samples. Glycerine and urea showed significant skin hydration effects compared with other humectants. We also found a significant moisturizing effect by analysing the chemical functional groups; amide class had a higher hydration effect than betaines and disaccharides in humectants combination.

Effect of skin pH for wrinkle formation on Asian: Korean, Vietnamese and Singaporean.

BACKGROUND: Skin pH may be influenced by various factors, such as hydration of stratum corneum, rate of sebum excretion rate, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sweating in relation to skin ageing. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to evaluate the correlation between skin pH and wrinkle formation that is directly related to ageing. In addition, we investigated the factors related to skin ageing by comparing the association between skin pH and other skin properties. METHODS: Three hundred volunteers were selected from three countries: Korea, Vietnam and Singapore. Hydration on the stratum corneum, the rate of sebum excretion rate, melanin index, TEWL and skin temperature on the cheek were measured in a controlled room, and wrinkle length and depth using replicas were compared with skin pH variation. RESULTS: The mean and standard deviation of skin surface pH among the three countries were 5.510 ± 0.625. The greatest gap of skin pH that revealed significant differences for skin properties was represented between the Koreans and the Vietnamese. For all three countries, skin hydration, melanin contents, wrinkle length, wrinkle depth and skin temperature were significantly correlated with skin pH. Factors related to skin moisturizing, such as skin hydration, sebum excretion rate and skin temperature, were negatively correlated with skin pH. Wrinkle length and depth decreased as skin pH became more acidic. CONCLUSIONS: Skin properties displayed various values depending on skin pH. In particular, wrinkle formation significantly decreased as skin pH becomes more acidic. We conclude that skin pH is determined by skin properties, such as skin hydration, sebum excretion rate, melanin concentration, TEWL and skin temperature that affects wrinkle formation.

Comparison of the skin biophysical parameters of Southeast Asia females: forehead-cheek and ethnic groups.

BACKGROUND: Regional and ethnic (racial) differences in skin properties are well known. However, regional and racial studies are limited and have studied skin properties using an insufficient number of subjects and limited ethnic groups, except in the case of some recent studies. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was (1) to compare the skin biophysical parameter among the large scale of Southeast Asia females group and (2) to compare skin properties of the forehead and cheek. METHODS: We measured and compared seven skin biophysical parameters, such as skin hydration, sebum, skin pH, melanin index, erythema index, skin elasticity and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), of the forehead and cheek of a large population of Indonesian (n = 200), Vietnamese (n = 100) and Singaporean females (n = 97). RESULTS: At the point of site difference, there were significant differences in five biophysical parameters (skin hydration, skin pH, melanin index, erythema index and skin elasticity) in Indonesian females. In Vietnamese and Singaporean women, they were significant differences in five biophysical parameters (skin hydration, skin pH, melanin index, erythema index and TEWL). At the point of ethnic difference, the Indonesian women had the highest skin pH and melanin index between the different ethnic groups. Vietnamese women had the highest skin hydration and TEWL in the forehead, whereas Singaporean women had the highest skin elasticity. CONCLUSION: The skin biophysical parameters are different between the forehead and cheek among Southeast Asian females. It also reveals that the biophysical parameters are different in same racial group.

The alkaline pH-adapted skin barrier is disrupted severely by SLS-induced irritation.

The pH of the healthy skin is 5.5 and maintained by many regulatory mechanisms. The pH of the skin care product we use on a daily basis can have an influence on the skin properties. To investigate how the physical properties of skin change after the alkaline or acidic pH of the skin care products are applied on the skin for a long term, we adjusted the pH of the skin care products to 3, 5 and 8 (A, B, C), with glycolic acid and triethanolamine. For 5 weeks the skin care products were applied on 20 healthy subjects' ventral forearm and the skin physical properties were measured. After 5 weeks, skin responses to the external stress of 1% (w/v) SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) irritation and erythema by UV were measured. Skin colour and skin UV response were not altered by the pH. However, on the C-applied site (pH 8) the transepidermal water loss of stratum corneum (SC) increased significantly, the water content increased and desquamation decreased, respectively, and the SLS significantly impaired the skin barrier in comparison with other sites. The alkaline skin care product impaired the skin barrier after repeated application over 5-week period and the skin barrier was disrupted severely by 1% SLS exposure because SC was already impaired by alkaline pH and sensitive to external stress. This suggests that the pH of daily skin care products is very important for skin barrier homeostasis.

The skin barrier state of aged hairless mice in a dry environment.

BACKGROUND: Many elderly people have chronic xerosis, and frequently experience an exacerbation during winter. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the barrier state of aged murine skin with or without barrier disruption in a dry environment. METHODS: Aged and young hairless mice were kept separately in dry and normal conditions for 9 days. Acetone treatment was used to perturb the skin barrier. Skin barrier function was measured as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and morphological changes in the epidermis were studied by electron microscopy. RESULTS: The baseline TEWL was not higher in the dry environment. The number of stratum corneum (SC) layers and the epidermal thickness of aged mice increased in the dry environment. The recovery rate of the aged skin barrier was neither accelerated nor delayed in the dry environment. In the normal environment, aged mice recovered more slowly than young mice. After barrier perturbation in the aged mice, changes in SC layers and in epidermal thickness were similar in the two environments. The secretion and number of lamellar bodies did not differ between the two environments. CONCLUSIONS: We confirmed that a dry environment induces epidermal proliferation and scaling in both aged and young mice. However, no remarkable difference was found in the skin barrier recovery of aged hairless mice in a dry environment.