Open-label topical application of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone containing serum improves the appearance of photoaging and uneven pigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Skin photoaging and uneven pigmentation are common dermatological concerns. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) and acetyl zingerone (AZ) are potent antioxidants that have been shown to have anti-photoaging and anti-pigmentation effects. THDA is a more stable and penetrable form of vitamin C. AZ is an antioxidant derived from ginger which has clinical evidence for improving photoaging. However, no studies have assessed how they may synergistically act on the skin. AIMS: This study aims to assess whether a serum containing both THDA and AZ can improve photoaging and the appearance of uneven facial pigmentation. PATIENTS/METHODS: This open-label study was conducted on 35 healthy individuals aged 21-55. All subjects were instructed to use three to five drops of the topical serum (Power-C Serum, Image Skincare, Lantana, FL) daily for 12 weeks. Videomicroscopy and high-resolution photography and various skin biophysical measurements were taken at baseline, 1, 4, and 12 weeks. Outcomes included skin tone and pigmentation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin smoothness, firmness, and elasticity. RESULTS: Compared to baseline, the results at 12 weeks revealed significant decreases in skin pigmentation (p < 0.0001), decreased fine lines and wrinkles (p < 0.0001), and increased smoothness (p < 0.0001), firmness (p < 0.0001), and elasticity (p < 0.0001). Additionally, transepidermal water loss was significantly decreased at 4 weeks compared to baseline (p = 0.01), indicating an increased epidermal barrier integrity. CONCLUSIONS: Overall, these findings provide evidence for the combined use of THDA and AZ to address skin photoaging and dyspigmentation changes.

Comparison between HET-CAM protocols and a product use clinical study for eye irritation evaluation of personal care products including cosmetics according to their surfactant composition.

The hen's egg test on chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) is one of the most frequently used alternative tests for prediction of ocular irritation of cosmetic products. There are different HET-CAM protocols widely accepted, but there is no information about which of the protocols better correlates with the results obtained in product use clinical study under the conditions of use. Two Fix Time Methods (FTM) -Lüepke and the ICCVAM guideline - and two Reaction Time Methods (RTM) -ECVAM DBALM Prot. No. 47 and No. 96- were employed to test 18 cosmetic products. Simultaneously, they were evaluated by an ophthalmological clinical test. A unified classification system was used, and products were classified into four irritation levels: non-irritant, weak, moderate and severe irritant. The duration of use (rinse-off or leave-on), and the concentration and type of surfactants were taken into account in the analysis. All the products that were classified as non-irritant by any HET-CAM protocols were also safe in the product use clinical study. The product that was found to be non-safe in the product use clinical evaluation was also unsuitable by most of the HET-CAM protocols. These results were employed to develop an algorithm that allows selecting the appropriate HET-CAM protocol for each type of product to be tested.