Bakuchiol and Ethyl (Linoleate/Oleate) Synergistically Modulate Endocannabinoid Tone in Keratinocytes and Repress Inflammatory Pathway mRNAs.

The endocannabinoid (eCB) system plays an active role in epidermal homeostasis. Phytocannabinoids such as cannabidiol modulate this system but also act through eCB-independent mechanisms. This study evaluated the effects of cannabidiol, bakuchiol (BAK), and ethyl (linoleate/oleate) (ELN) in keratinocytes and reconstituted human epidermis. Molecular docking simulations showed that each compound binds the active site of the eCB carrier FABP5. However, BAK and ethyl linoleate bound this site with the highest affinity when combined 1:1 (w/w), and in vitro assays showed that BAK + ELN most effectively inhibited FABP5 and fatty acid amide hydrolase. In TNF-stimulated keratinocytes, BAK + ELN reversed TNF-induced expression shifts and uniquely downregulated type I IFN genes and PTGS2 (COX2). BAK + ELN also repressed expression of genes linked to keratinocyte differentiation but upregulated those associated with proliferation. Finally, BAK + ELN inhibited cortisol secretion in reconstituted human epidermis skin (not observed with cannabidiol). These results support a model in which BAK and ELN synergistically interact to inhibit eCB degradation, favoring eCB mobilization and inhibition of downstream inflammatory mediators (e.g., TNF, COX-2, type I IFN). A topical combination of these ingredients may thus enhance cutaneous eCB tone or potentiate other modulators, suggesting novel ways to modulate the eCB system for innovative skincare product development.

Standardized Terminalia chebula Fruit Extract: A Natural Ingredient That Provides Long-Lasting Antioxidant Protection and Reverses Visible Signs of Pollution-Induced Skin Damage.

BACKGROUND: Identification of long-lasting natural antioxidants to protect against and repair skin damage induced by exposure to environmental pollution is in high demand. OBJECTIVE: To investigate a standardized Terminalia chebula (TC) fruit extract for its long-lasting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to reverse the visible signs of pollution-induced skin damage in an 8-week clinical study. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Chemical and cell-based in vitro studies were performed to characterize long-lasting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties; a clinical study with subjects with normal to dry skin living in a high-pollution city for the previous 5 years was conducted to assess if a formulation containing 1% standardized TC fruit extract affected significant improvements in skin's visible condition and appearance compared with its placebo. RESULTS: The standardized TC fruit extract provided longer-lasting and more efficient neutralization of reactive oxygen species (ROS) than tocopherol; treatment of keratinocytes with the fruit extract prior to being stressed with urban dust safeguarded against increases in intracellular ROS, inhibited release of inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8 and protected membrane lipids against peroxidation. A clinical study yielded statistically significant improvements in dermatologist scores and subject self-assessments for skin texture, hydration, tone, firmness and radiance as compared to its placebo. CONCLUSION: These studies validate the use of this standardized TC fruit extract not only as a restorative to diminish visible signs of existing damage but also as a preventative to help defend skin against damages caused by chronic exposure to environmental pollution.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) Degrades Rapidly under Oxidative Stress but Can Be Stabilized by Acetyl Zingerone to Enhance Collagen Production and Antioxidant Effects.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) is an L-ascorbic acid precursor with improved stability and ability to penetrate the epidermis. The stability and transdermal penetration of THDC, however, may be compromised by the oxidant-rich environment of human skin. In this study, we show that THDC is a poor antioxidant that degrades rapidly when exposed to singlet oxygen. This degradation, however, was prevented by combination with acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a stabilizing antioxidant. As a standalone ingredient, THDC led to unexpected activation of type I interferon signaling, but this pro-inflammatory effect was blunted in the presence of AZ. Moreover, the combination of THDC and AZ increased expression of genes associated with phospholipid homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation, along with repression of MMP1 and MMP7 expression, inhibition of MMP enzyme activity, and increased production of collagen proteins by dermal fibroblasts. Lastly, whereas THDC alone reduced viability of keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress, this effect was completely abrogated by the addition of AZ to THDC. These results show that AZ is an effective antioxidant stabilizer of THDC and that combination of these products may improve ascorbic acid delivery. This provides a step towards reaching the full potential of ascorbate as an active ingredient in topical preparations.

A unique gel matrix moisturizer delivers deep hydration resulting in significant clinical improvement in radiance and texture.

Introduction: As skin ages, it loses its ability to retain moisture and becomes rough and dry. This results in a clinically dull appearance with a loss of radiance, firmness, and suppleness. Symptoms can be improved with use of a moisturizer that builds and maintains skin hydration over time; however, most moisturizers that occlude the skin surface are perceived as heavy and greasy and are not consumer preferred. Methods: A unique, consumer-preferred gel matrix formula was developed by combining liquid crystal structures, which mimic skin barrier lipid assembly, with specific emulsifiers that deliver water deep into skin. Ex vivo studies were conducted to investigate the superior hydrating effects of the gel matrix formula. Confocal Raman microscopy studies assessed the spatial distribution of water in ex vivo skin after application of the gel matrix formula. To determine the effects of the gel matrix formula on dry facial skin, a 12-week clinical study was conducted with subjects with self-perceived skin dryness and dullness. Results: The formulation significantly increased the relative water content throughout epidermal regions, which was not observed with the application of a competitive gel formula. Instrumental measurements assessed improvements in skin surface moisturization and barrier function. Clinical grading showed significant improvements in hydration-related endpoints including radiance, clarity, and texture. Subject self-agree assessment demonstrated that subjects observed improvements in the appearance of their facial skin. Conclusion: These studies demonstrated that the gel matrix formula increased skin water content in deeper layers, and resulted in significant clinical improvements in hydration, barrier function, and clinical appearance of radiance.

Topical stabilized retinol treatment induces the expression of HAS genes and HA production in human skin in vitro and in vivo.

Skin Aging manifests primarily with wrinkles, dyspigmentations, texture changes, and loss of elasticity. During the skin aging process, there is a loss of moisture and elasticity in skin resulting in loss of firmness finally leading to skin sagging. The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronic acid (HA), which has a significant water-binding capacity. HA levels in skin decline with age resulting in decrease in skin moisture, which may contribute to loss of firmness. Clinical trials have shown that topically applied ROL effectively reduces wrinkles and helps retain youthful appearance. In the current study, ROL was shown to induce HA production and stimulates the gene expression of all three forms of hyaluronic acid synthases (HAS) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes monolayer cultures. Moreover, in human skin equivalent tissues and in human skin explants, topical treatment of tissues with a stabilized-ROL formulation significantly induced the gene expression of HAS mRNA concomitant with an increased HA production. Finally, in a vehicle-controlled human clinical study, histochemical analysis confirmed increased HA accumulation in the epidermis in ROL-treated human skin as compared to vehicle. These results show that ROL increases skin expression of HA, a significant contributing factor responsible for wrinkle formation and skin moisture, which decrease during aging. Taken together with the activity to increase collagen, elastin, and cell proliferation, these studies establish that retinol provides multi-functional activity for photodamaged skin.

Daily Use of a Facial Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Over One-Year Significantly Improves Clinical Evaluation of Photoaging.

BACKGROUND: Sunscreens are known to protect from sun damage; however, their effects on the reversal of photodamage have been minimally investigated. OBJECTIVE: The aim of the prospective study was to evaluate the efficacy of a facial sun protection factor (SPF) 30 formulation for the improvement of photodamage during a 1-year use. METHODS: Thirty-two subjects applied a broad spectrum photostable sunscreen (SPF 30) for 52 weeks to the entire face. Assessments were conducted through dermatologist evaluations and subjects' self-assessment at baseline and then at Weeks 12, 24, 36, and 52. RESULTS: Clinical evaluations showed that all photoaging parameters improved significantly from baseline as early as Week 12 and the amelioration continued until Week 52. Skin texture, clarity, and mottled and discrete pigmentation were the most improved parameters by the end of the study (40% to 52% improvement from baseline), with 100% of subjects showing improvement in skin clarity and texture. CONCLUSION: The daily use of a facial broad-spectrum photostable sunscreen may visibly reverse the signs of existing photodamage, in addition to preventing additional sun damage.

Visible Light Induces Melanogenesis in Human Skin through a Photoadaptive Response.

Visible light (400-700 nm) lies outside of the spectral range of what photobiologists define as deleterious radiation and as a result few studies have studied the effects of visible light range of wavelengths on skin. This oversight is important considering that during outdoors activities skin is exposed to the full solar spectrum, including visible light, and to multiple exposures at different times and doses. Although the contribution of the UV component of sunlight to skin damage has been established, few studies have examined the effects of non-UV solar radiation on skin physiology in terms of inflammation, and limited information is available regarding the role of visible light on pigmentation. The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of visible light on the pro-pigmentation pathways and melanin formation in skin. Exposure to visible light in ex-vivo and clinical studies demonstrated an induction of pigmentation in skin by visible light. Results showed that a single exposure to visible light induced very little pigmentation whereas multiple exposures with visible light resulted in darker and sustained pigmentation. These findings have potential implications on the management of photo-aggravated pigmentary disorders, the proper use of sunscreens, and the treatment of depigmented lesions.

Metabolic signature of sun exposed skin suggests catabolic pathway overweighs anabolic pathway.

Skin chronically exposed to sun results in phenotypic changes referred as photoaging. This aspect of aging has been studied extensively through genomic and proteomic tools. Metabolites, the end product are generated as a result of biochemical reactions are often studied as a culmination of complex interplay of gene and protein expression. In this study, we focused exclusively on the metabolome to study effects from sun-exposed and sun-protected skin sites from 25 human subjects. We generated a highly accurate metabolomic signature for the skin that is exposed to sun. Biochemical pathway analysis from this data set showed that sun-exposed skin resides under high oxidative stress and the chains of reactions to produce these metabolites are inclined toward catabolism rather than anabolism. These catabolic activities persuade the skin cells to generate metabolites through the salvage pathway instead of de novo synthesis pathways. Metabolomic profile suggests catabolic pathways and reactive oxygen species operate in a feed forward fashion to alter the biology of sun exposed skin.

Clinical efficacy and safety of 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol for improving skin hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation disorders are of social and cosmetic concerns to many individuals due to their prevalent locations on highly visible parts of the body. Topical formulation containing hydroquinone is the most widely used remedy for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders. However, reports of side effects in long-term usage have raised concerns for its use in cosmetic products. Thus, it is highly desirable to develop a safe and effective alternative to treat hyperpigmentation disorders. The objective of the current study is to investigate the de-pigmenting efficacy of 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol in various in vitro models and in a randomized controlled clinical study. We showed that 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol significantly reduced melanogenesis in primary human melanocytes, murine melanoma cells, and pigmented human epidermal equivalents. It was determined that the reduction in melanogenesis is mediated through inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme activity and protein expression. Further investigation revealed that the inhibition of melanogenesis is reversible and is not associated with cellular toxicity in melanocytes. In addition, significant improvements in key clinical parameters such as overall skin lightening, appearance of spots on the cheeks, overall contrast between spots and surrounding skin, and overall pigmentation size were detected in a double-blinded, randomized controlled clinical study. In conclusion, our findings clearly demonstrated the potency of 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol in modulating skin pigmentation, and it is safe and well tolerated after 12-week topical application.

Metabolomic analysis of sun exposed skin.

It is very well known that exposure of skin to sun chronically accelerates the mechanism of aging as well as making it more susceptible toward skin cancer. This aspect of aging has been studied very well through genomics and proteomics tools. In this study we have used a metabolomic approach for the first time to determine the differences in the metabolome from full thickness skin biopsies from sun exposed and sun protected sites. We have primarily investigated the energy metabolism and the oxidative pathway in sun exposed skin. Biochemical pathway analysis revealed that energy metabolism in photoexposed skin is predominantly anaerobic. The study also validated the increased oxidative stress in skin.

Manipulating molecular switches in brown adipocytes and their precursors: a therapeutic potential.

Brown adipocytes constitute a metabolically active tissue responsible for non-shivering thermogenesis and the depletion of excess calories. Differentiation of brown fat adipocytes de novo or stimulation of pre-existing brown adipocytes within white adipose depots could provide a novel method for reducing the obesity and alleviating the consequences of type II diabetes worldwide. In this review, we addressed several molecular mechanisms involved in the control of brown fat activity, namely, the ß3-adrenergic stimulation of thermogenesis during exposure to cold or by catecholamines; the augmentation of thyroid function; the modulation of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPARγ), transcription factors of the C/EBP family, and the PPARγ co-activator PRDM16; the COX-2-driven expression of UCP1; the stimulation of the vanilloid subfamily receptor TRPV1 by capsaicin and monoacylglycerols; the effects of BMP7 or its analogs; the cannabinoid receptor antagonists and melanogenesis modulating agents. Manipulating one or more of these pathways may provide a solution to the problem of harnessing brown fat's thermogenic potential. However, a better understanding of their interplay and other homeostatic mechanisms is required for the development of novel therapies for millions of obese and/or diabetic individuals.

Evidence for the ectopic synthesis of melanin in human adipose tissue.

Melanin is a common pigment in animals. In humans, melanin is produced in melanocytes, in retinal pigment epithelium (RPE) cells, in the inner ear, and in the central nervous system. Previously, we noted that human adipose tissue expresses several melanogenesis-related genes. In the current study, we confirmed the expression of melanogenesis-related mRNAs and proteins in human adipose tissue using real-time polymerase chain reaction and immunohistochemical staining. TYR mRNA signals were also detected by in situ hybridization in visceral adipocytes. The presence of melanin in human adipose tissue was revealed both by Fontana-Masson staining and by permanganate degradation of melanin coupled with liquid chromatography/ultraviolet/mass spectrometry determination of the pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) derivative of melanin. We also compared melanogenic activities in adipose tissues and in other human tissues using the L-[U-(14)C] tyrosine assay. A marked heterogeneity in the melanogenic activities of individual adipose tissue extracts was noted. We hypothesize that the ectopic synthesis of melanin in obese adipose may serve as a compensatory mechanism that uses its anti-inflammatory and its oxidative damage-absorbing properties. In conclusion, our study demonstrates for the first time that the melanin biosynthesis pathway is functional in adipose tissue.

A novel diagnostic biomarker panel for obesity-related nonalcoholic steatohepatitis (NASH).

BACKGROUND: Within the spectrum of nonalcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD), only patients with nonalcoholic steatohepatitis (NASH) show convincing evidence for progression. To date, liver biopsy remains the gold standard for the diagnosis of NASH; however, liver biopsy is expensive and associated with a small risk, emphasizing the urgent need for noninvasive diagnostic biomarkers. Recent findings suggest a role for apoptosis and adipocytokines in the pathogenesis of NASH. The aim of this study was to develop a noninvasive diagnostic biomarker for NASH. METHODS: The study included 101 patients with liver biopsies who were tested with enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA)-based assays. Of these, 69 were included in the biomarker development set and 32 were included in the biomarker validation set. Clinical data and serum samples were collected at the time of biopsy. Fasting serum samples were assayed for adiponectin, resistin, insulin, glucose, TNF-alpha, IL-6, IL-8, cytokeratin CK-18 (M65 antigen), and caspase-cleaved CK-18 (M30 antigen). RESULTS: Data analysis revealed that the levels of M30 antigen (cleaved CK-18) predicted histological NASH with 70% sensitivity and 83.7% specificity and area under the curve (AUC) = 0.711, p < 10(-4), whereas the predictive value of the levels of intact CK-18 (M65) was higher (63.6% sensitivity and 89.4% specificity and AUC = 0.814, p < 10(-4)). Histological NASH could be predicted by a combination of Cleaved CK-18, a product of the subtraction of Cleaved CK-18 level from intact CK-18 level, serum adiponectin, and serum resistin with a sensitivity of 95.45% sensitivity, specificity of 70.21%, and AUC of 0.908 (p < 10(-4)). Blinded validation of this model confirmed its reliability for separating NASH from simple steatosis. CONCLUSIONS: Four ELISA-based tests were combined to form a simple diagnostic biomarker for NASH.

Adipokines and melanocortins in the hepatic manifestation of metabolic syndrome: nonalcoholic fatty liver disease.

Metabolic syndrome is associated with nonalcoholic fatty liver disease and its more aggressive form, nonalcoholic steatohepatitis. Adipokines produced by white adipose tissue possess broad physiological activity and play an important autocrine role in obesity-associated complications, including metabolic syndrome, nonalcoholic fatty liver disease and cardiovascular disease. Various adipokines may have beneficial or harmful effects. Other tissues, particularly stomach and intestine, produce active molecules that can influence the function of adipocytes and, possibly, the levels of adipokine secretion. In some cases, the production sites of these molecules remain unknown. The review focuses on our current understanding of the disease-related effects of the adipokines and the melanocortins on various peripheral tissues, and discusses some of their potential interactions with each other. Potential therapeutic applications are also considered.

Obesity-related differential gene expression in the visceral adipose tissue.

BACKGROUND: This study investigates the expression patterns in human adipose tissue, and identifies genes that may be involved in the abnormal energy homeostasis. METHODS: Subjects were prospectively recruited from morbidly obese patients undergoing bariatric surgery and from non-obese organ donors. Extensive clinical data and visceral fat specimens were obtained from each subject at the time of surgery. A group of 50 obese patients and 9 non-obese controls were selected for further study. Two custom two-color cDNA microarrays were produced with 40,173 human individual cDNA clones. Microarray experiments were performed for each sample, and a selected group of gene expression values were confirmed with real-time RT-PCR. RESULTS: A comparison of gene expression profiles from obese and non-obese patients identified 1,208 genes with statistically significant differential expression between the 2 groups. Most prominent among these genes are multiple glycolysis enzyme encoding genes; others are involved in oxysterol biosynthesis and signaling, or are ATP-binding transporters and solute carriers. CONCLUSION: Differential gene expression in the adipose tissue of morbidly obese patients includes genes related to lipid and glucose metabolism, membrane transport, and genes promoting the cell cycle. These findings are a first step toward clarifying the molecular pathogenesis of obesity and identifying potential targets for therapeutic intervention.