In Vitro and Clinical Evaluation of Cannabigerol (CBG) Produced via Yeast Biosynthesis: A Cannabinoid with a Broad Range of Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Health-Boosting Properties.

Cannabigerol (CBG) is a minor non-psychoactive cannabinoid present in Cannabis sativa L. (C. sativa) at low levels (<1% per dry weight) that serves as the direct precursor to both cannabidiol (CBD) and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). Consequently, efforts to extract and purify CBG from C. sativa is both challenging and expensive. However, utilizing a novel yeast fermentation technology platform, minor cannabinoids such as CBG can be produced in a more sustainable, cost-effective, and timely process as compared to plant-based production. While CBD has been studied extensively, demonstrating several beneficial skin properties, there are a paucity of studies characterizing the activity of CBG in human skin. Therefore, our aim was to characterize and compare the in vitro activity profile of non-psychoactive CBG and CBD in skin and be the first group to test CBG clinically on human skin. Gene microarray analysis conducted using 3D human skin equivalents demonstrates that CBG regulates more genes than CBD, including several key skin targets. Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were exposed in culture to pro-inflammatory inducers to trigger cytokine production and oxidative stress. Results demonstrate that CBG and CBD reduce reactive oxygen species levels in HDFs better than vitamin C. Moreover, CBG inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokine (Interleukin-1ß, -6, -8, tumor necrosis factor α) release from several inflammatory inducers, such as ultraviolet A (UVA), ultraviolet B (UVB), chemical, C. acnes, and in several instances does so more potently than CBD. A 20-subject vehicle-controlled clinical study was performed with 0.1% CBG serum and placebo applied topically for 2 weeks after sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritation. CBG serum showed statistically significant improvement above placebo for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduction in the appearance of redness. Altogether, CBG's broad range of in vitro and clinical skin health-promoting activities demonstrates its strong potential as a safe, effective ingredient for topical use and suggests there are areas where it may be more effective than CBD.

AGSE: A Novel Grape Seed Extract Enriched for PP2A Activating Flavonoids That Combats Oxidative Stress and Promotes Skin Health.

Environmental stimuli attack the skin daily resulting in the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammation. One pathway that regulates oxidative stress in skin involves Protein Phosphatase 2A (PP2A), a phosphatase which has been previously linked to Alzheimer's Disease and aging. Oxidative stress decreases PP2A methylation in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). Thus, we hypothesize agents that increase PP2A methylation and activity will promote skin health and combat aging. To discover novel inhibitors of PP2A demethylation activity, we screened a library of 32 natural botanical extracts. We discovered Grape Seed Extract (GSE), which has previously been reported to have several benefits for skin, to be the most potent PP2A demethylating extract. Via several fractionation and extraction steps we developed a novel grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), which is enriched for PP2A activating flavonoids that increase potency in preventing PP2A demethylation when compared to commercial GSE. We then determined that 1% AGSE and 1% commercial GSE exhibit distinct gene expression profiles when topically applied to a 3D human skin model. To begin to characterize AGSE's activity, we investigated its antioxidant potential and demonstrate it reduces ROS levels in NHDFs and cell-free assays equal to or better than Vitamin C and E. Moreover, AGSE shows anti-inflammatory properties, dose-dependently inhibiting UVA, UVB and chemical-induced inflammation. These results demonstrate AGSE is a novel, multi-functional extract that modulates methylation levels of PP2A and supports the hypothesis of PP2A as a master regulator for oxidative stress signaling and aging in skin.

HYVIA™: A novel, topical chia seed extract that improves skin hydration.

BACKGROUND: Chia seeds have gained importance as it is the highest known plant source of omega-3 (ω3) polyunsaturated fatty acids. Specifically, chia seeds possess ω3 α-linolenic acid (ALA) and ω6 linoleic acid (LA), together known as Vitamin F, which play an important role in maintaining skin function. Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in skin barrier function and its activity is modulated by natural lipids. AIMS: Obtain a chia seed extract (HYVIA™) with significant higher levels of Vitamin F, determine in vitro PP2A activity and skin hydration markers compared to other commercial chia seed extracts (CCSEs), and evaluate the potential skin hydration benefits clinically in human subjects. METHODS: A PP2A demethylation assay was utilized to assess PP2A activity. In vitro studies utilizing normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were treated with HYVIA™ and gene expression of hydration markers (AQP3, HAS2) were measured by quantitative PCR (qPCR). A 16-subject clinical trial was performed with 0.1% HYVIA™ formulated in a cream and applied topically to assess its skin moisturizing potential. RESULTS: We demonstrate here that HYVIA™, ALA, and LA inhibit PP2A demethylation, boosting PP2A activity, while most other CCSEs do not. Unlike other CCSEs, HYVIA™ increases keratinocyte hydration factors aquaporin-3 and hyaluronic acid synthase-2 in vitro. Clinical assessment of 0.1% HYVIA™ cream shows that HYVIA™ improves skin hydration. CONCLUSIONS: HYVIA™ is a novel chia seed extract, enriched for Vitamin F, that modulates PP2A activity and clinically improves skin hydration and barrier function.

SIG-1273 protects skin against urban air pollution and when formulated in AgeIQ™ Night Cream anti-aging benefits clinically demonstrated.

BACKGROUND: SIG-1273 is a novel cosmetic active that provides a broad spectrum of benefits to the skin. Considering the chronic skin exposure to pollution in urban areas, we sought to determine if SIG-1273 could provide additional protection against skin aging by inhibiting pollutant-induced cytotoxicity and inflammation. OBJECTIVE: Determine if SIG-1273 possesses antipollution properties in vitro and evaluate the potential anti-aging benefits of Age IQ™ Night Cream clinically in human subjects. METHODS: In vitro studies utilizing normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs), were co-treated with urban dust (SRM 1649b) and SIG-1273 (toxicity protection measured by MTS assay). A water-soluble fraction of urban dust (UD-WS) induces pro-inflammatory cytokine release (IL-8) from NHEKs (measured via ELISA). An 8-week, 37-subject clinical trial was performed with 0.05% SIG-1273 formulated in Age IQ™ Night Cream and applied topically to assess its potential to reduce the appearance of aging. RESULTS: In vitro studies using NHEKs demonstrate SIG-1273 protects against urban dust-induced cell toxicity, reducing cell death by 66% and concentration dependently inhibits UD-WS-induced IL-8 production (IC50  = 20 nmol/L), outperforming niacinamide, ascorbic acid, and α-tocopherol, commonly used actives in antipollution skin-care products. Clinical assessment of Age IQ™ Night Cream shows it is effective in improving the appearance of facial skin aging including fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin clarity/brightness, and firmness/elasticity. CONCLUSIONS: SIG-1273, is demonstrated here for the first time to possess antipollution properties. Included as a key active ingredient in Age IQ™ Night Cream, this novel topical formulation provides benefits to individuals with aging skin.

SIG1459: A novel phytyl-cysteine derived TLR2 modulator with in vitro and clinical anti-acne activity.

Cutibacterium (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) is a major contributor to the pathogenesis of acne. C. acnes initiates an innate immune response in keratinocytes via recognition and activation of toll-like receptor-2 (TLR2), a key step in comedogenesis. Tetramethyl-hexadecenyl-cysteine-formylprolinate (SIG1459), a novel anti-acne isoprenylcysteine (IPC) small molecule, is shown in this study to have direct antibacterial activity and inhibit TLR2 inflammatory signalling. In vitro antibacterial activity of SIG1459 against C. acnes was established demonstrating minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC = 8.5 µmol\L), minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC = 16.1 µmol\L) and minimal biofilm eradication concentration (MBEC = 12.5 µmol\L). To assess SIG1459's anti-inflammatory activity, human keratinocytes were exposed to C. acnes and different TLR2 ligands (peptidoglycan, FSL-1, Pam3CSK4) that induce pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8 and IL-1α production. Results demonstrate SIG1459 inhibits TLR2-induced IL-8 release from TLR2/TLR2 (IC50  = 0.086 µmol\L), TLR2/6 (IC50  = 0.209 µmol\L) and IL-1α from TLR2/TLR2 (IC50  = 0.050 µmol\L). To assess the safety and in vivo anti-acne activity of SIG1459, a vehicle controlled clinical study was conducted applying 1% SIG1459 topically (n = 35 subjects) in a head-to-head comparison against 3% BPO (n = 15 subjects). Utilizing the Investigator Global Assessment scale for acne as primary endpoint, results demonstrate 1% SIG1459 significantly outperformed 3% BPO over 8 weeks, resulting in 79% improvement as compared to 56% for BPO. Additionally, 1% SIG1459 was well tolerated. Thus, SIG1459 and phytyl IPC compounds represent a novel anti-acne technology that provides a safe dual modulating benefit by killing C. acnes and reducing the inflammation it triggers via TLR2 signalling.

N-Acetylglutaminoyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SIG-1191): an anti-inflammatory molecule that increases the expression of the aquaglyceroporin, aquaporin-3, in human keratinocytes.

Isoprenylcysteine (IPC) small molecules were discovered as signal transduction modulating compounds ~25 years ago. More recently, IPC molecules have demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties in a variety of dermal cells as well as antimicrobial activity, representing a novel class of compounds to ameliorate skin conditions and disease. Here, we demonstrate a new IPC compound, N-acetylglutaminoyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SIG-1191), which inhibits UVB-induced inflammation blocking pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) production. To investigate further the previously reported hydrating potential of IPC compounds, SIG-1191 was tested for its ability to modulate aquaporin expression. Specifically, aquaporin 3 (AQP3) the most abundant aquaporin found in skin has been reported to play a key role in skin hydration, elasticity and barrier repair. Results show here for the first time that SIG-1191 increases AQP3 expression in both cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes as well as when applied topically in a three-dimensional (3D) reconstructed human skin equivalent. Additionally, SIG-1191 dose dependently increased AQP3 protein levels, as determined by specific antibody staining, in the epidermis of the 3D skin equivalents. To begin to elucidate which signaling pathways SIG-1191 may be modulating to increase AQP3 levels, we used several pharmacological pathway inhibitors and determined that AQP3 expression is mediated by the Mitogen-activated protein kinase/Extracellular signal-regulated kinase kinase (MEK) pathway. Altogether, these data suggest SIG-1191 represents a new IPC derivative with anti-inflammatory activity that may also promote increased skin hydration based on its ability to increase AQP3 levels.

In vitro and clinical evaluation of SIG1273: a cosmetic functional ingredient with a broad spectrum of anti-aging and antioxidant activities.

BACKGROUND: Isoprenylcysteine (IPC) small molecules were identified as a new class of anti-inflammatory compounds over 20 years ago. Since then, they have been developed as novel cosmetic functional ingredients (CFI) and topical drug candidates. SIG1273 is a second generation CFI that has previously been shown to provide a broad spectrum of benefits for the skin through its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. OBJECTIVE: To determine whether SIG1273 possesses anti-aging properties in vitro and evaluate the tolerability and activity of SIG1273 when applied topically to human subjects. METHODS: To model photoaging in vitro, human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were exposed in culture to UVA to induce collagenase (MMP-1) production. An in vitro wound-healing model was based on the activation of HDF migration into cell-free tissue culture surface. Hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress was performed using HDFs to measure intracellular ROS activity. Radical scavenging capacity was determined using a colorimetric antioxidant assay kit (ABTS method). Lastly, a 4-week, 29-subject study was performed in which SIG1273 was applied topically as a cream to assess its tolerance and activity in reducing the appearance of aging. RESULTS: In vitro studies demonstrate SIG1273 inhibits UVA-induced MMP-1 production, hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress and promotes wound healing. Moreover, SIG1273 was shown to be a radical scavenging antioxidant. Clinical assessment of SIG1273 cream (0.25%) showed it was well tolerated with significant improvement in the appearance of fine lines, coarse wrinkles, radiance/luminosity, pore size, texture/smoothness, hydration and increased firmness. CONCLUSIONS: SIG1273 represents a novel CFI with antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory properties that when applied topically is well tolerated and provides benefits to individuals with aging skin.

SIG1273: a new cosmetic functional ingredient to reduce blemishes and Propionibacterium acnes in acne prone skin.

BACKGROUND: Propionibacterium acnes is a major contributing factor to the inflammatory component of acne. The interaction of P. acnes with keratinocytes leads to an innate immune response via activation of toll-like receptors (TLR2, TLR4) resulting in the production and secretion of pro-inflammatory mediators. SIG1273, an isoprenylcysteine small molecule modulates inflammatory signaling pathways and kills P. acnes. SIG1273 represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides relief from blemishes in acne prone skin. OBJECTIVE: To assess the keratinocyte response and microbial growth of SIG1273 in vitro and evaluate the tolerability of SIG1273 gel applied topically in acne prone subjects. METHODS: For in vitro studies, human keratinocytes were exposed in culture to live P. acnes and peptidoglycan (PGN) to induce IL-8 production. P. acnes were cultured to determine minimal inhibitory concentration and minimal bactericidal concentration values. A total of 30 subjects were randomized in a double-blind controlled trial receiving 3% SIG1273 gel or vehicle for 6 weeks. Evaluation included inflammatory lesions, noninflammatory lesions, microcomedones, Sebutape scores, and P. acnes counts. RESULTS: In vitro studies demonstrate SIG1273 inhibits P. acnes-induced IL-8 production and inhibits P. acnes growth. SIG1273 gel was well tolerated with no signs of stinging, redness, or itching. Furthermore, improvement in some aspects of acne was observed in subjects applying SIG1273 gel, including inflammatory lesions, microcomedone counts and Sebutape scores. Facial scrubs taken to measure P. acnes colony-forming units showed those applying SIG1273 gel had ~1.0 Log 10 colony reduction over the length of the study, a statistically significantly improvement when compared with vehicle. No significant effects above vehicle were observed for noninflammatory lesions. CONCLUSIONS: SIG1273 represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides a safe dual modulating benefit to individuals with acne prone skin by reducing P. acnes counts and reducing inflammation.

Topical N-acetyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine inhibits mouse skin inflammation, and unlike dexamethasone, its effects are restricted to the application site.

N-acetyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (AFC), a modulator of G protein and G-protein coupled receptor signaling, inhibits neutrophil chemotaxis and other inflammatory responses in cell-based assays. Here, we show topical AFC inhibits in vivo acute inflammation induced by 12-O-tetradecanoyl-phorbol-13-acetate (TPA) and arachidonic acid using the mouse ear model of inflammation. AFC inhibits edema, as measured by ear weight, and also inhibits neutrophil infiltration as assayed by direct counting in histological sections and by measuring myeloperoxidase (MPO) activity as a neutrophil marker. In addition, AFC inhibits in vivo allergic contact dermatitis in a mouse model utilizing sensitization followed by a subsequent challenge with 2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene. Unlike the established anti-inflammatories dexamethasone and indomethacin, AFC's action was restricted to the site of application. In this mouse model, both dexamethasone and indomethacin inhibited TPA-induced edema and MPO activity in the vehicle-treated, contralateral ear. AFC showed no contralateral ear inhibition for either of these end points. A marginally significant decrease due to AFC treatment was seen in TPA-induced epidermal hyperplasia at 24 hours. This was much less than the 90% inhibition of neutrophil infiltration, suggesting that AFC does not act by directly inhibiting protein kinase C.