Skin characterization and immediate effects of different dermocosmetic treatments in French and Brazilian skin.

BACKGROUND: All over the world, people face the same skin problems. However, their skin characteristics are different. Thus, it is a challenge to prescribe treatments that will be effective on different skin types. Therefore, it is very important to consider the skin biology when indicating a dermocosmetic treatment. OBJECTIVES: To assess skin biophysical parameters in French and Brazilian subjects and to verify the efficacy of four dermocosmetic treatments in these populations. METHODS: Five test areas were defined on each volar forearm of the eighteen Brazilian and eighteen French participants using a randomized design. Biophysical measurements in terms of skin hydration, skin barrier function, skin brightness, and skin viscoelasticity were performed before and after 60 minutes of treatment. RESULTS: Skin biophysical differences between populations were found. French skin has been shown to be more hydrated regarding epidermal mechanic properties and stratum corneum water content and more radiant when compared with Brazilian skin. However, it showed more signs of cutaneous aging and fatigue effects on skin. The Brazilian skin showed better skin barrier function. In addition, the treatments were effective in both populations. CONCLUSIONS: Despite the differences found in French and Brazilian skin, the proposed dermocosmetic treatments showed effective in both populations.

Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations: a cross-cultural study.

OBJECTIVE: Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross-information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish cross-culturally preferences. METHODS: For this, a total panel of 100 consumers of cosmetics evaluated four different products. The same protocol for the sensory analysis was followed in both countries. RESULTS: The panellists were able to perceive differences in the products and the method proved to be repeatable in both countries. The presence of UV filters in the formulation was noticed and displeased both populations. Brazilians, although dissatisfied with the sensory aspect of the sunscreen, are willing to use it for its UV protection. CONCLUSION: This work delivers important information on the sensory perception of cosmetics by people from different countries and brings important knowledge to develop products with textural properties that will be appreciated worldwide.

OBJECTIFS: Le Brésil et la France sont deux pays majeurs pour le marché de la beauté. Malgré cela, il y a peu d'étude interculturelle sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques entre ces deux populations. L'objectif de cette étude était donc de comparer l'analyse de formules cosmétiques par deux jurys, l'un brésilien et l'autre français, et d'établir leur préférence. METHODES: Pour cela, nous avons demandé à 100 consommateurs au total d'évaluer 4 produits cosmétiques différents. Le même protocole d'analyse sensorielle a été scrupuleusement suivi dans les deux pays. RESULTATS: Les évaluateurs ont été capables de percevoir des différences significatives entre les produits, et de façon répétable dans chaque pays. Chaque jury a noté la présence de filtres UV dans les formules et ces dernières ont été peu appréciées. Cependant, le jury brésilien était favorable à leur utilisation pour se protéger des UV, et ce malgré leurs propriétés sensorielles insatisfaisantes. CONCLUSION: Ce travail fournit des informations indispensables sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques par des populations différentes, ainsi que de nouvelles connaissances pour développer des formules avec des textures qui pourront être appréciées à travers le monde.