Quantifying the inovation of cosmetic formulations that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as fotoprotective bioactives / Quantificando a inovação de formulações cosméticas que contêm extratos de frutas ricas em substâncias fenólicas como bioativos fotoprotetivos

Introduction: sunscreen is a cosmetic used to protect human skin from the deleterious effects of UV radiation and thus minimize the risks of developing skin cancer. Extracts produced from fruits, such as Abiu, Guava, Rambutan and Grape, have significant concentrations of chromophores and phenolic substances that have the ability to absorb UV light and neutralize free radicals. The production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for Brazilian industry and could reduce the cost of production, given the large existing biodiversity in the country. Objectives: carry out a patent search for formulations and cosmetic products that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as photoprotective and antioxidant bioactives. Methodology: a survey of patents was carried out in the database of the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) and the European Patent Office (EPO), covering a time period between 2008 and 2018, using a combination of keywords related to herbal cosmetics and sunscreens. Results: this research identifies a significant number of patents related to plant extract in association with sunscreen product, however, no patent filings were identified for cosmetic products containing extracts of the evaluated fruits, either alone or in combination, for photoprotective and antioxidant purposes. Conclusion: the Brazilian and international market for sun care products moves millions to billions of dollars annually and have a significant annual growth prospect. Considering the great biodiversity existing in the country, the production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for the Brazilian industrial sector.

Introdução: os filtros solares são cosméticos usados para proteger a pele humana dos efeitos deletérios da radiação UV e assim, minimizar os riscos de desenvolvimento de câncer de pele. Extratos produzidos a partir de frutos, como Abiu, Goiaba, Rambutan e Uva, têm concentrações significativas de cromóforos e substâncias fenólicas que têm a capacidade de absorver a radiação UV e neutralizar os radicais livres. A produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para a indústria brasileira e poderá reduzir o custo de produção, dada a grande biodiversidade existente no país. Objetivos: realizar uma busca de registros de patentes de formulações e produtos cosméticos que contêm extratos de frutos ricos em fenólicos como bioativos fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Metodologia: foi realizado um levantamento de patentes no banco de dados do Instituto Nacional de Propriedade Intelectual (INPI) e do Escritório Europeu de Patentes (EPO), abrangendo um período de tempo entre 2008 e 2018, utilizando uma combinação de palavras-chave relacionadas a cosméticos à base de plantas e protetores solares. Resultados: esta pesquisa identificou um número significativo de patentes relacionadas ao extrato de plantas em associação ao produto protetor solar, no entanto, não foram identificados pedidos de patente para produtos cosméticos que contenham extratos das frutas avaliadas, isoladamente ou em combinação, para fins fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Conclusão: o mercado brasileiro e internacional de produtos de proteção solar movimenta milhões a bilhões de dólares anualmente e tem a perspectiva de crescimento anual significativa. Considerando a grande biodiversidade existente no país, a produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para o setor industrial brasileiro.

Sunscreen protection factor enhancement through supplementation with Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum L) ethanolic extract.

The use of plant bioactives in cosmetic formulations are increasing due to the search for new sustainable sources of raw materials, greater concern for safety and possible social impacts caused by the incorrect use of natural resources. Plant extracts have been the subject of several studies in several industrial areas. However, the potential use of tropical fruits extracts in cosmetic formulations remains largely unexplored. Considering the impact on public health and the possibility of using wastes from fruit processing, the aim of this work is to identify, evaluate and develop a sunscreen based on rambutan peel extracts (Nephelium lappaceum L) as a natural additive for enhancing the final product sun protection factor (SPF). The phytochemical screening revealed the presence of tannins and flavonoids and the absence of coumarins. Even presenting a low sunscreen factor when used alone (SPF value 0.4), rambutan extract at 1.00% FTP concentration improved the photoprotective result (11.2) of the formulation containing 7.5% of ethylhexyl metoxycinnamate (EHMC) by 134%. The addition of rambutan extract in the formulation shows the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors by about 64% of the total synthetic organic filters used to achieve the SPF value of 26.3. In addition, the sunscreen formulation supplemented with rambutan extract containing 1.00% RTP shows the potential to minimize the risk of synthetic agent toxicity and a 45% reduction in the cost of sunscreen production.

Guava-fruit extract can improve the UV-protection efficiency of synthetic filters in sun cream formulations.

Increasing concerns about health safety, social impacts and fair trade have intensified the industrial interest for using natural products in commercial cosmetic formulations. Several studies are currently focusing on plant extracts, but tropical fruits, such as guava, remain yet unexplored and, consequently, underutilized. This research aims to evaluate the potential for using guava-fruit extract as a photoprotective additive agent for sun cream formulations. The phytochemical screening revealed the presence of flavonoids and tannins and the absence of coumarins. Although the Psidium guajava extract showed a low sun protection factor (SPF) value (1.0), it improved in about 134% the photoprotective result (8.1) of 7.5% 2-ethyl-hexyl methoxycinnamate formulation. Therefore, guava-fruit extract supplementation in the formulation shows the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors in about 78.9% from the total synthetic organic filters used to achieve the SPF value of 18. Thus, sun cream supplemented with guava-fruit extract show the potential for minimizing the risk of synthetic agent toxicity, and a 65.8% reduction in the cost of the sunscreen production.