The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin.

BACKGROUND: alpha-Hydroxy acids (alphaHAs) are reported to reduce signs of aging in the skin and are widely used cosmetic ingredients. Several studies suggest that alphaHA can increase the sensitivity of skin to ultraviolet radiation. More recently, beta-hydroxy acids (betaHAs), or combinations of alphaHA and betaHA have also been incorporated into antiaging skin care products. Concerns have also arisen about increased sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation following use of skin care products containing beta-HA. OBJECTIVE: To determine whether topical treatment with glycolic acid, a representative alphaHA, or with salicylic acid, a betaHA, modifies the short-term effects of solar simulated radiation (SSR) in human skin. METHODS: Fourteen subjects participated in this study. Three of the four test sites on the mid-back of each subject were treated daily Monday-Friday, for a total of 3.5 weeks, with glycolic acid (10%), salicylic acid (2%), or vehicle (control). The fourth site received no treatment. After the last treatment, each site was exposed to SSR, and shave biopsies from all four sites were obtained. The endpoints evaluated in this study were erythema (assessed visually and instrumentally), DNA damage and sunburn cell formation. RESULTS: Treatment with glycolic acid resulted in increased sensitivity of human skin to SSR, measured as an increase in erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation. Salicylic acid did not produce significant changes in any of these biomarkers. CONCLUSIONS: Short-term topical application of glycolic acid in a cosmetic formulation increased the sensitivity of human skin to SSR, while a comparable treatment with salicylic acid did not.

Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation and p53 production in human skin after repeated UV irradiation.

Substantial differences in DNA damage caused by a single UV irradiation were found in our previous study on skin with different levels of constitutive pigmentation. In this study, we assessed whether facultative pigmentation induced by repeated UV irradiation is photoprotective. Three sites on the backs of 21 healthy subjects with type II-III skin were irradiated at 100-600 J/m(2) every 2-7 days over a 4- to 5-week period. The three sites received different cumulative doses of UV (1900, 2900 or 4200 J/m(2)) and were biopsied 1 day after the last irradiation. Biomarkers examined included pigment content assessed by Fontana-Masson staining, melanocyte function by expression of melanocyte-specific markers, DNA damage as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), nuclear accumulation of p53, apoptosis determined by TUNEL assay, and levels of p21 and Ser46-phosphorylated p53. Increases in melanocyte function and density, and in levels of apoptosis were similar among the 3 study sites irradiated with different cumulative UV doses. Levels of CPD decreased while the number of p53-positive cells increased as the cumulative dose of UV increased. These results suggest that pigmentation induced in skin by repeated UV irradiation protects against subsequent UV-induced DNA damage but not as effectively as constitutive pigmentation.

SOX9 is a key player in ultraviolet B-induced melanocyte differentiation and pigmentation.

SOX (SRY type HMG box) proteins are transcription factors that are predominantly known for their roles during development. During melanocyte development from the neural crest, SOX10 regulates microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, which controls a set of genes critical for pigment cell development and pigmentation, including dopachrome tautomerase and tyrosinase. We report here that another SOX factor, SOX9, is expressed by melanocytes in neonatal and adult human skin and is up-regulated by UVB exposure. We demonstrate that this regulation is mediated by cAMP and protein kinase. We also show that agouti signal protein, a secreted factor known to decrease pigmentation, down-regulates SOX9 expression. In adult and neonatal melanocytes, SOX9 regulates microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, dopachrome tautomerase, and tyrosinase promoters, leading to an increase in the expression of these key melanogenic proteins and finally to a stimulation of pigmentation. SOX9 completes the complex and tightly regulated process leading to the production of melanin by acting at a very upstream level. This role of SOX9 in pigmentation emphasizes the poorly understood impact of SOX proteins in adult tissues.

Immunohistochemistry and in situ hybridization in the study of human skin melanocytes.

Although keratinocytes are the most numerous type of cell in the skin, melanocytes are also key players as they produce and distribute melanin that protects the skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation. In vitro experiments on melanocytic cell lines are useful to study melanogenesis and their progression towards melanoma. However, interactions of melanocytes with keratinocytes and with other types of cells in the skin, such as fibroblasts and Langerhans cells, are also crucial. We describe two techniques, immunohistochemistry (IHC) and tissue in situ hybridization (TISH), that can be used to identify and study melanocytes in the skin and their responses to UV or other stimuli in situ. We describe a practical method to localize melanocytic antigens on formalin-fixed, paraffin-embedded tissue sections and in frozen sections using indirect immunofluorescence with conjugated secondary antibodies. In addition, we detail the use of TISH and its combination with IHC to study mRNA levels of genes expressed in the skin at cellular resolution. This methodology, along with relevant tips and troubleshooting items, are important tools to identify and study melanocytes in the skin.

Human skin responses to UV radiation: pigment in the upper epidermis protects against DNA damage in the lower epidermis and facilitates apoptosis.

Melanin plays an important role in protecting the skin against UV radiation, and melanomas and basal/squamous cell carcinomas occur more frequently in individuals with fair/light skin. We previously reported that levels of melanin correlate inversely with amounts of DNA damage induced by UV in normal human skin of different racial/ethnic groups. We have now separately examined DNA damage in the upper and lower epidermal layers in various types of skin before and after exposure to UV and have measured subsequent apoptosis and phosphorylation of p53. The results show that two major mechanisms underlie the increased photocarcinogenesis in fair/light skin. First, UV-induced DNA damage in the lower epidermis (including keratinocyte stem cells and melanocytes) is more effectively prevented in darker skin, suggesting that the pigmented epidermis is an efficient UV filter. Second, UV-induced apoptosis is significantly greater in darker skin, which suggests that UV-damaged cells may be removed more efficiently in pigmented epidermis. The combination of decreased DNA damage and more efficient removal of UV-damaged cells may play a critical role in the decreased photocarcinogenesis seen in individuals with darker skin.

Sorting of Pmel17 to melanosomes through the plasma membrane by AP1 and AP2: evidence for the polarized nature of melanocytes.

Adaptor proteins (AP) play important roles in the sorting of proteins from the trans-Golgi network, but how they function in the sorting of various melanosome-specific proteins such as Pmel17, an essential structural component of melanosomes, in melanocytes is unknown. We characterized the processing and trafficking of Pmel17 via adaptor protein complexes within melanocytic cells. Proteomics analysis detected Pmel17, AP1 and AP2, but not AP3 or AP4 in early melanosomes. Real-time PCR, immunolabeling and tissue in-situ hybridization confirmed the coexpression of AP1 isoforms mu1A and mu1B (expressed only in polarized cells) in melanocytes and keratinocytes, but expression of mu1B is missing in some melanoma cell lines. Transfection with AP1 isoforms (mu1A or mu1B) showed two distinct distribution patterns that involved Pmel17, and only mu1B was able to restore the sorting of Pmel17 to the plasma membrane in cells lacking mu1B expression. Finally, we established that expression of mu1B is regulated physiologically in melanocytes by UV radiation or DKK1. These results show that Pmel17 is sorted to melanosomes by various intracellular routes, directly or indirectly through the plasma membrane, and the presence of basolateral elements in melanocytes suggests their polarized nature.

Characterization of human epiplakin: RNAi-mediated epiplakin depletion leads to the disruption of keratin and vimentin IF networks.

Epiplakin is a member of the plakin family with multiple copies of the plakin repeat domain (PRD). We studied the subcellular distribution and interactions of human epiplakin by immunostaining, overlay assays and RNAi knockdown. Epiplakin decorated the keratin intermediate filaments (IF) network and partially that of vimentin. In the binding assays, the repeat unit (PRD plus linker) showed strong binding and preferentially associated with assembled IF over keratin monomers. Epiplakin knockdown revealed disruption of IF networks in simple epithelial but not in epidermal cells. In rescue experiments, the repeat unit was necessary to prevent the collapse of IF networks in transient knockdown; however, it could only partially restore the keratin but not the vimentin IF network in stably knocked down HeLa cells. We suggest that epiplakin is a cytolinker involved in maintaining the integrity of IF networks in simple epithelial cells. Furthermore, we observed an increase of epiplakin expression in keratinocytes after the calcium switch, suggesting the involvement of epiplakin in the process of keratinocyte differentiation.