Evaluation of antioxidant properties of dermocosmetic creams by direct electrochemical measurements.

Cyclic voltammetry and linear sweep voltammetry were preliminarily used in order to evaluate the global antioxidant properties of dermocosmetic creams. Experiments were performed by introducing electrodes directly into the creams without any pretreatment of the samples. Current-potential curves showed significant anodic current depending on the antioxidant-containing cream studied. In comparison, little amperometric response was recorded with an antioxidant-free cream base. Aqueous solutions of the corresponding antioxidants showed analogous anodic waves and similar peak potentials. A correlation between the global anodic peak and the presence of the antioxidant species in the cream was made with eleven skin creams, attesting to the reliability of the method. Among the tested electrode materials, platinum gave the best results in terms of electrochemical kinetics and measurement precision (current peak standard deviation less than 5%). Exposure of a depilatory cream to oxidizing agents (e.g., hydrogen peroxide, air, or light) caused a decrease in peak current as expected. This methodology enabled us to evaluate the evolution of the total antioxidant capacity under oxidative stress and gives encouragement to further development of a voltammetric method to quantify cream antioxidant power.

Environmental pollutants and skin cancer.

We are increasingly exposed to environmental pollution. Pollutants can be inhaled, ingested or come into contact with the skin depending on the form in which they occur. On metabolization, activation, or accumulation, pollutants can become extremely toxic for the vital organs and this is often related to a strong genotoxic effect. Since the skin acts as a barrier between the organism and the environment, it is frequently directly exposed to pollution. It is very often degraded by polluting agents and acts as an inlet toward other tissues. Numerous studies in man recognize and demonstrate the carcinogenic power of certain pollutants in the digestive and respiratory tracts. The "pollutants" that react most specifically with the skin are: ultraviolet radiation, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (e.g., benzo[a]pyrene), volatile organic compounds (e.g., benzene), heavy metals, and ozone. Ultraviolet radiation, a "physical" pollutant, has been described as being the factor responsible for most skin cancers in man. The genotoxicity of UV light is well documented (type of lesion or mutation, etc.) and its carcinogenic effect is clearly demonstrated in vivo in man. A few epidemiological studies describe the carcinogenicity of certain pollutants such as arsenic or lead on the skin. However, most of the evidence for the role of pollutants in skin cancers comes from in vivo animal studies or from in vitro studies (e.g., PAHs). In this report, different studies are presented to illustrate the research strategies developed to investigate the mechanism of action of "chemical" pollutants and their potential role in human skin pathology. All the study models and the associated techniques of investigation are tools for a better understanding and thus more efficient prevention of the deleterious effects caused by the environment.

Variability of enzyme markers during clinical regression of atopic dermatitis.

Skin surface enzyme activities were found to be significantly different in healthy and in skin with atopic dermatitis and, following appropriate treatment, a close correlation was observed between the clinical staging of the atopic dermatitis and the levels of the assayed marker enzymes. Samples were taken, by stripping with simple adhesive tapes, from a group of subjects on cure in a spa. The corneocytes were recovered from the first layers of the stratum corneum. Aqueous extracts of the strips were tested for their activity on chromophoric substrates which allow fluorescence spectrometry to be used to assay the trypsin-like, acid-phosphatase-like and phospholipase-A2-like activities. We show that the restoration of return to activities close to those of healthy subjects is related to the general condition of the patients, who showed a clearly improved SCORAD. Recovery of the trypsin-like activity and attenuation of the phospholipase-like activity, paralleled the regression of the dermatitis as assessed by a decrease in clinically evaluated parameters of xerosis and inflammation.

Identification of two secreted phospholipases A2 in human epidermis.

Phospholipases A2 are enzymes that catalyze the release of fatty acids from the sn-2 position of phospholipids. Fatty acids have been suggested to play a key role in the barrier function of the epidermis. The aim of this study was to identify and characterize the type of secretory phospholipase A2 expressed in human epidermis. We report the molecular cloning of two secretory phospholipase A2 in the human epidermis. The first enzyme is identical to human pancreatic type IB phospholipase A2. Western blots revealed a 14 kDa protein localized in the soluble fraction. The second phospholipase A2 is identical to human synovial type IIA enzyme and is localized in the membrane fraction. By semiquantitative reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction performed on horizontal sections of the epidermis, we found that the mRNAs of both phospholipases A2 were expressed mainly in the basal layers of the epidermis. Our data thus provide evidence for the expression of two secretory phospholipases A2 in human epidermis. The different localization of these two secretory proteins strongly suggests that each enzyme might have a specific role in skin physiology and probably in the barrier function. Taken together, these data validate the reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction technique performed on thin sections as a first approach to detect gene expression in different layers of the epidermis.

Identification of pancreatic type I secreted phospholipase A2 in human epidermis and its determination by tape stripping.

Phospholipases A2 (PLA2) catalyse the release of fatty acids from the sn-2 position of phospholipids and have been suggested to play a key part in permeability barrier homeostasis. Using a sensitive and versatile fluorometric method, significant PLA2 activity has been detected in both human skin homogenates and tape strippings of stratum corneum. Based on various properties (resistance to heat and sulphuric acid treatment, neutral optimal pH, absolute requirement for millimolar calcium concentrations, inhibition by dithiothreitol and p-bromophenacyl bromide, and resistance to a trifluoromethyl ketone derivative of arachidonic acid, AACOCF3, a specific inhibitor of cytosolic PLA2), this enzyme was characterized as a secretory PLA2 (sPLA2). Immunohistochemistry revealed strong labelling of type I pancreatic sPLA2 at the stratum corneum-stratum granulosum junction, type II sPLA2 being undetectable. An increase in PLA2 activity in tape-stripped material from the deepest level of the stratum corneum was correlated with partial morphological disappearance of type I sPLA2 immunolabelling. Our data thus provide the first convincing evidence that pancreatic sPLA2 is significantly expressed in human epidermis, where it might participate in the accumulation of free fatty acids contributing to the permeability barrier. In addition, our method for determining PLA2 activity in easily available tape strippings should allow further clinical studies aimed to explore possible PLA2 abnormalities in various dermatoses.

Influence of applied quantity, water-immersion and air-drying on covering and microstructure of physical sunscreen films.

The features of topically applied suncream films depend on the applied quantities and could be modified by water immersion and air drying. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of the aforementioned factors on physical sunscreen films and to establish the correlation between the in vitro determined Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the microstructure of the mineral coating. The assessments were conducted by using UV spectroscopy and electron microscopy on sunscreen films applied on both synthetic membranes and human skin. The results emphasize the paramount role played by the applied quantity to produce a continuous and protecting sunscreen film. The microscopic findings show that water immersion induces mainly a compactness of the sunscreen films, whereas no significant alterations were noted after air drying. Lastly, the SPF values, measured before and after water immersion, disclose the satisfactory water resistance of the broad-spectrum physical sunscreen considered.

A mineral sunscreen affords genomic protection against ultraviolet (UV) B and UVA radiation: in vitro and in situ assays.

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been shown to be responsible for different biological effects on human skin, including the initiation of photocarcinogenesis. Both UVB and UVA have been described as mutagenic, but the processes by which they alter the DNA are different. Although cells can repair DNA damage, some deleterious mutations nevertheless appear and can promote cancer. The risk of photocarcinogenesis is acknowledged and the frequency of photogenodermatosis is increasing. In order to evaluate the protection efficacy of a high sun protection factor (SPF) mineral sunscreen against UVB- and UVA-induced genomic alterations, we have followed two approaches. First, we have tested the sunscreen for its ability to decrease the unscheduled DNA synthesis response in vitro in human fibroblasts, as an indirect measure of UVB-induced lesions (0.005 and 0.01 J/cm2), and second, we have verified its ability to reduce the in situ end-labelling intensity in human skin as a direct measure of UVA-induced single-strand breaks (10 J/cm2). Microscopic analysis clearly demonstrated the protective effect of the sunscreen against UVB and UVA. A dose-dependent effect of mineral sunscreens was observed. There was also a relationship between the SPF and genomic protection. By limiting the accumulation of UV-induced lesions on DNA, this mineral sunscreen could limit the mutation frequency.

Characterisation and assay of five enzymatic activities in the stratum corneum using tape-strippings.

The report describes a method for the assay of five enzymatic activities involved in establishing the stratum corneum permeability barrier: beta-glucocerebrosidase, acid phosphatase, phospholipase A(2) (PLA(2)) and two serine proteases: chymotrypsin and its activator in the stratum corneum, trypsin. The specific activities of these different enzymes have been determined along with their pH profiles and sensivities to specific inhibitors. It can be noted that only two presented a pH optimum similar to the pH of the stratum corneum. This could suggest that their activities are regulated by local variations in pH. The method was applied to a pathological situation, that of a non-eczematous dry atopic dermatitis. Atopic skin had significantly reduced trypsin activity, increased acid phosphatase and no change in the activities of three other studied enzymes. Understanding these activities can provide a tool for the characterization of skin pathologies and for the development of a certain number of applications in cosmetology and therapeutics.

Epidermal enzymes: their role in homeostasis and their relationships with dermatoses.

This review underlines the importance of different enzymes (beta-glucocerebrosidase, phospholipase A2, proteases and cholesterol sulfatase) in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal barrier function. Certain diseases may be characterized by the lack or excess of one or more of these different enzyme activities, altering the homeostatic equilibrium of the epidermis. In addition to this, particular enzymes may show potential in the development of novel dermocosmetic strategies.