Butyrospermum parkii butter increased the photostability and in vivo SPF of a molded sunscreen system.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is related to skin and lip tumors. Therefore, the development of photoprotective lipstick formulations is of utmost importance. AIMS: Considering the biological properties of Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), we assessed its potential as an adjuvant in a molded lipstick sunscreen system by in vivo tests and photostability. PATIENTS/METHODS: Shea butter was used in a photoprotective lipstick formulation at two different concentrations (10.0% and 15.0% w/w) associated with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) and titanium dioxide. Skin compatibility was assessed in vivo. The in vivo SPF value was determined according to the current recognized method. Additionally, the photostability of EHM was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography. RESULTS: By the cutaneous compatibility, the product presented no interference with skin barrier and no adverse reactions, thus proving its safety. The in vivo SPF assay showed that the highest concentration of Shea butter increased the in vivo SPF value of the sample by 35%, demonstrating it to be a booster in photoprotective lipstick formulations. Also, Shea butter was proved to enhance the photostability of EHM, a commonly used UVB filter available in several countries. CONCLUSION: Shea butter increased the photostability and in vivo SPF of a molded lipstick sunscreen.

Theoretical study of tautomers and photoisomers of avobenzone by DFT methods.

Organic ultraviolet (UV) filters such as cinnamates, benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic derivatives, and avobenzone (which have well-established and recognized UV-filtering efficacies) are employed in cosmetic/pharmaceutical products to minimize the harm caused by exposure of the skin to sunlight. In this study, a detailed investigation of the photostability and tautomerism mechanisms of avobenzone was performed utilizing DFT methods. The UV spectral profile of avobenzone was also simulated, and the results showed good agreement with experimental data. Furthermore, the calculations were able to distinguish tautomers and photoisomers of the studied organic filter based on their properties, thus showing the potential to develop new organic UV filters. Graphical Abstract Theoretical studies of avobenzone and its tautomers by TD-DFT.

Fragrance technology for the dermatologist - a review and practical application.

Cosmetic product development has increased in recent years. The value of a product is emphasized in its safety and effectiveness. The stability study in the context of product quality evaluation during shelf life becomes primordial to guarantee the integrity of the physical, chemical, and olfactory properties. In this study, aromatic compositions had been submitted to the stability normal test, at low temperature (4.0 ± 2.0°C), at room temperature (22.0 ± 2.0°C), and in oven (45.0 ± 2.0°C). The compositions were analyzed at 15, 30, 60, and 90 days versus a fresh aromatic composition 48 h after preparation, in which the organoleptic characteristics and pH value were evaluated besides undertaking sensory evaluation. The results demonstrated that at the high temperature (45.0 ± 2.0°C), in which the oxidative processes of the fragrance components are accelerated, the cosmetic preparation "A" was chosen because it showed more acceptable physical-chemical properties and in terms of sensory evaluation of perfume character and intensity was approved for commercial use.