Highlighting the hygroscopic capacities of apiogalacturonans.

To meet the needs of dehydrated skin, molecules with a high hygroscopic potential are necessary to hydrate it effectively and durably. In this context, we were interested in pectins, and more precisely in apiogalacturonans (AGA), a singular one that is currently only found in a few species of aquatic plants. As key structures in water regulation of these aquatic plants and thanks to their molecular composition and conformations, we hypothesized that they could have beneficial role for skin hydration. Spirodela polyrhiza is a duckweed known to be naturally rich in AGA. The aim of this study was to investigate the hygroscopic potential of AGA. Firstly, AGA models were built based on structural information obtained from previous experimental studies. Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations were performed, and the hygroscopic potential was predicted in silico by analyzing the frequency of interaction of water molecules with each AGA residue. Quantification of interactions identified the presence of 23 water molecules on average in contact with each residue of AGA. Secondly, the hygroscopic properties were investigated directly in vivo. Indeed, the water capture in the skin was measured in vivo by Raman microspectroscopy thanks to the deuterated water (D20) tracking. Investigations revealed that AGA significantly capture and retain more water in the epidermis and deeper than a placebo control. Not only do these original natural molecules interact with water molecules, but they capture and retain them efficiently in the skin.

Transcutaneous penetration of a single-chain variable fragment (scFv) compared to a full-size antibody: potential tool for atopic dermatitis (AD) treatment.

Currently, several biologics are used for the treatment of cutaneous pathologies such as atopic dermatitis (AD), psoriasis or skin cancers. The main administration routes are subcutaneous and intravenous injections. However, little is known about antibody penetration through the skin. The aim was to study the transcutaneous penetration of a reduced-size antibody as a single-chain variable fragment (scFv) compared to a whole antibody (Ab) and to determine its capacity to neutralize an inflammatory cytokine involved in AD such as human interleukin-4 (hIL-4). Transcutaneous penetration was evaluated by ex vivo studies on tape-stripped pig ear skin. ScFv and Ab visualization through the skin was measured by Raman microspectroscopy. In addition, hIL-4 neutralization was studied in vitro using HEK-Blue™ IL-4/IL-13 cells and normal human keratinocytes (NHKs). After 24 h of application, analysis by Raman microspectroscopy showed that scFv penetrated into the upper dermis while Ab remained on the stratum corneum. In addition, the anti-hIL4 scFv showed very efficient and dose-dependent hIL-4 neutralization. Thus, scFv penetrates through to the upper papillary dermis while Ab mostly remains on the surface, the anti-hIL4 scFv also neutralizes its target effectively suggesting its potential use as topical therapy for AD.

Investigation of the molecular signature of greying hair shafts.

OBJECTIVE: Hair greying (i.e. canitie) is a physiological process occurring with the loss of melanin production and deposition within the hair shafts. Many studies reported the oxidation as the main biological process underlying this defect of pigmentation. Even though the overall appearance and biomechanical properties of hairs are reported to be altered with greying, there is a lack of information about molecular modifications occurring in grey hair shafts. The aim of this study was thus to investigate the molecular signature and associated changes occurring in greying hair shafts by confocal Raman microspectroscopy. METHODS: This study was conducted on pigmented, intermediate (i.e. grey) and unpigmented hairs taken from 29 volunteers. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy measurements were acquired directly on hair shafts. RESULTS: Automatic classification of Raman spectra revealed 5 groups displaying significant differences. Hence, the analysis of the molecular signature highlighted the existence of 3 sub-groups within grey hair: light, medium and dark intermediate. Among molecular markers altered in the course of greying, this study identified for the first time a gradual modification of lipid conformation (trans/gauche ratio) and protein secondary structure (α-helix/ß-sheet ratio), referring respectively to an alteration of barrier function and biomechanical properties of greying hair. CONCLUSION: This study thus reports for the first time a highly specific molecular signature as well as molecular modifications within grey hair shaft.

OBJECTIF: Le grisonnement du cheveu (i.e. canitie) est un processus physiologique correspondant à l'altération de la production et du dépôt des pigments de mélanine au sein de la tige pilaire. De nombreuses études identifient l'oxydation en tant que principal phénomène à l'origine de ce défaut de pigmentation. L'apparence globale et les propriétés biomécaniques des cheveux grisonnants sont également rapportées comme étant altérées. Cependant, il existe un manque d'information concernant les modifications moléculaires ayant lieu dans la tige pilaire grisonnante. Le but de cette étude était donc d'investiguer par microspectroscopie confocale Raman la signature moléculaire de la tige pilaire grisonnante ainsi que les changements biologiques associés. MÉTHODES: Cette étude a été réalisée sur des cheveux pigmentés, intermédiaires (i.e. gris) et non pigmentés, prélevés sur 29 volontaires. Les mesures par microspectroscopie Raman confocale ont directement été acquises sur la tige pilaire. RÉSULTATS: Une classification automatique des spectres Raman a permis de révéler 5 groupes présentant des différences significatives. Ainsi, l'analyse de la signature moléculaire spectrale identifie 3 sous-groupes au sein des cheveux gris : intermédiaires clairs, moyens et foncés. Parmi les marqueurs moléculaires altérés au cours du grisonnement, cette étude identifie pour la première fois une modification graduelle de la conformation des lipides (ratio trans /gauche) et de la structure secondaire des protéines (ratio hélice α/feuillets ß). Ces marqueurs correspondent respectivement à l'altération de la fonction barrière et des propriétés biomécaniques des cheveux gris. CONCLUSION: Cette étude met en évidence pour la première fois une signature moléculaire extrêmement précise ainsi que des modifications moléculaires en lien avec le grisonnement de la tige pilaire.

Clinical Efficacy of Oligofructans from Ophiopogon japonicus in Reducing Atopic Dermatitis Flare-ups in Caucasian Patients.

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting 15-20% children and 2-10% adults worldwide. Topical treatments include corticosteroids and calcineurin inhibitors, despite frequently observed adverse events such as skin atrophy, itching and burning sensations. Good alternatives that can prolong disease relief in between flare-ups are therefore needed. We conducted a randomized, single-blind, placebo-controlled, multicenter clinical trial in a Caucasian cohort of 90 children and 144 adults with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis that applied tested products twice daily for 60 days. A natural active from Ophiopogon japonicus, that improves atopic dermatitis symptoms in vivo, was successful in reducing the SCORing of Atopic Dermatitis (SCORAD), including erythema, pruritus and body surface area in both cohorts. The active also improved patient's quality of life and significantly reduced the number of patients relapsing compared to placebo. We conclude that this treatment could be an effective solution to help control the disease in between flare-ups.

Measurement of the biomechanical function and structure of ex vivo drying skin using raman spectral analysis and its modulation with emollient mixtures.

An important aspect of the biomechanical behaviour of the stratum corneum (SC) is the drying stresses that develop with water loss. These stresses act as a driving force for damage in the form of chapping and cracking. Betasitosterol is a plant sterol with a structure similar to cholesterol, a key component in the intercellular lipids of the outermost layer of human skin, the SC. Cholesterol plays an important role in stabilizing the SC lipid structure, and altered levels of cholesterol have been linked with SC barrier abnormalities. Betasitosterol is currently applied topically to skin for treatment of wounds and burns. However, it is unknown what effect betasitosterol has on the biomechanical barrier function of skin. Here, by analysing the drying stress profile of SC generated during a kinetics of dehydration, we show that betasitosterol, in combination with two emollient molecules, isocetyl stearoyl stearate (ISS) and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (GTEH), causes a significant modulation of the drying stress behaviour of the SC by reducing both the maximal peak stress height and average plateau of the drying stress profile. Raman spectra analyses demonstrate that the combination of betasitosterol with the two emollients, ISS and GTEH, allows a high water retention capacity within the SC, while the lipid conformational order by increasing the amount of trans conformers. Our study highlights the advantage of combining a biomechanical approach together with Raman spectroscopy in engineering a suitable combination of molecules for alleviating dryness and dry skin damage.

Atopic skin: In vivo Raman identification of global molecular signature, a comparative study with healthy skin.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common skin inflammatory disease, affecting up to 3% of adults and 20% of children. Skin barrier impairment is thought to be the primary factor in this disease. Currently, there is no method proposed to monitor non-invasively the different molecular disorders involved in the upper layer of AD skin. Raman microspectroscopy has proved to be a powerful tool to characterize some AD molecular descriptors such as lipid content, global hydration level, filaggrin and its derivatives. Our investigations aimed to extend the use of in vivo Raman microspectroscopy as a rapid and non-invasive diagnostic technique for lipid conformation and organization, protein secondary structure and bound water content analysis in atopic skin. Our approach was based on the analysis of Raman data collected on the stratum corneum (SC) of 11 healthy and 10 mild-to-moderate atopic patients. Atopic skin revealed a modification of lipid organization and conformation in addition to the decrease of the lipid-to-protein ratio. This study also highlighted a reduction of the bound water and an increase in protein organized secondary structure in atopic skin. All these descriptors worsen the barrier function, state and appearance of the skin in AD. This precise and relevant information will allow an in vivo follow-up of the pathology and a better evaluation of the pharmacological activity of therapeutic molecules for the treatment of AD.

The relationship between water loss, mechanical stress, and molecular structure of human stratum corneum ex vivo.

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as 'tightness', and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α-helices, a decline in α-sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics.

Raman spectroscopy: in vivo quick response code of skin physiological status.

Dermatologists need to combine different clinically relevant characteristics for a better understanding of skin health. These characteristics are usually measured by different techniques, and some of them are highly time consuming. Therefore, a predicting model based on Raman spectroscopy and partial least square (PLS) regression was developed as a rapid multiparametric method. The Raman spectra collected from the five uppermost micrometers of 11 healthy volunteers were fitted to different skin characteristics measured by independent appropriate methods (transepidermal water loss, hydration, pH, relative amount of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol). For each parameter, the obtained PLS model presented correlation coefficients higher than R2=0.9. This model enables us to obtain all the aforementioned parameters directly from the unique Raman signature. In addition to that, in-depth Raman analyses down to 20 µm showed different balances between partially bound water and unbound water with depth. In parallel, the increase of depth was followed by an unfolding process of the proteins. The combinations of all these information led to a multiparametric investigation, which better characterizes the skin status. Raman signal can thus be used as a quick response code (QR code). This could help dermatologic diagnosis of physiological variations and presents a possible extension to pathological characterization.

Hydration effects on the barrier function of stratum corneum lipids: Raman analysis of ceramides 2, III and 5.

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin; its barrier function is highly dependent on the composition and the structure as well as the organization of lipids in its extracellular matrix. Ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol represent the major lipid classes present in this matrix. They play an important role in maintaining the normal hydration levels required for the normal physiological function. Despite the advancement in the understanding of the structure, composition and the function of the stratum corneum (SC), the concern of "dry skin" remains important in dermatology and care research. Most studies focus on the quantification of water in the skin using different techniques including Raman spectroscopy, while the studies that investigate the effect of hydration on the quality of the barrier function of the skin are limited. Raman spectroscopy provides structural, conformational and organizational information that could help elucidate the effect of hydration on the barrier function of the skin. In order to assess the effect of relative humidity on the lipid barrier function; we used Raman spectroscopy to follow-up the evolution of the conformation and the organization of three synthetic ceramides (CER) differing from each other by the nature of their polar heads (sphingosine, phytosphingosine and α hydroxyl sphingosine), CER 2, III and 5 respectively. CER III and 5 showed a more compact and ordered organization with stronger polar interactions at intermediate relative humidity values, while CER 2 showed opposite tendencies to those observed with CER III and 5.

Effects of atmospheric relative humidity on Stratum Corneum structure at the molecular level: ex vivo Raman spectroscopy analysis.

Skin hydration plays an important role in the optimal physical properties and physiological functions of the skin. Despite the advancements in the last decade, dry skin remains the most common characteristic of human skin disorders. Thus, it is important to understand the effect of hydration on Stratum Corneum (SC) components. In this respect, our interest consists in correlating the variations of unbound and bound water content in the SC with structural and organizational changes in lipids and proteins using a non-invasive technique: Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectra were acquired on human SC at different relative humidity (RH) levels (4-75%). The content of different types of water, bound and free, was measured using the second derivative and curve fitting of the Raman bands in the range of 3100-3700 cm(-1). Changes in lipidic order were evaluated using νC-C and νC-H. To analyze the effect of RH on the protein structure, we examined in the Amide I region, the Fermi doublet of tyrosine, and the νasymCH3 vibration. The contributions of totally bound water were found not to vary with humidity, while partially bound water varied with three different rates. Unbound water increased greatly when all sites for bound water were saturated. Lipid organization as well as protein deployment was found to be optimal at intermediate RH values (around 60%), which correspond to the maximum of SC water binding capacity. This analysis highlights the relationship between bound water, the SC barrier state and the protein structure and elucidates the optimal conditions. Moreover, our results showed that increased content of unbound water in the SC induces disorder in the structures of lipids and proteins.