The application of a multi-component reaction peptide as a model regenerative active to enhance skin wound-healing postlaser procedure in a double-blinded placebo-controlled clinical trial.

INTRODUCTION: Esthetic procedures are currently among the most effective options for consumers seeking to correct aging signs such as fine lines, wrinkles, and skin tone unevenness. Currently, there is a scientific need for an adjunct active to be paired with esthetic procedures to encourage wound recovery and address postprocedure pigmentation concerns. OBJECTIVE: Toward that goal, this study assessed the efficacy of a peptide created from a multi-component reaction (multi-component peptide, MCP) as a model active for postprocedure care and evaluated its ability to promote skin healing in an ablative laser-induced wound model on the forearm. METHODS: The mechanism of action of MCP was investigated using tubo assays, 2D melanocyte, and fibroblast cultures, reconstructed skin equivalents, and ex vivo skin explants. The MCP formula and the clinical benchmark formula of Aquaphor were assessed head-to-head by applying the products topically in an ablative laser-induced wound model (n = 20 subjects). The promotion of wound healing was evaluated by the investigator assessment of epithelial confluence, crusting or scabbing, general wound appearance, erythema, and edema. RESULTS: MCP was determined to be beneficial to postprocedure skin recovery and healing by four main mechanisms of action: barrier repair as determined in an ex vivo tape-stripping model, reduction of inflammation and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, reduction of elastase activity, and stimulation of fibroblast through the mTOR pathway. The formula containing 10% MCP enhanced the kinetics of epithelial confluence and improvement of the crusting or scabbing appearance of the laser-generated wounds in a laser-induced mini-zone wound healing study on the forearm. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the use of MCP as a proof of concept regenerative active that when incorporated into an optimized postprocedure skincare formula can improve skin healing and enhance the appearance of skin after injury with relevance to ablative aesthetic procedures.

Alteration to the Skin Ceramide Profile Following Broad-Spectrum UV Exposure.

The epidermal stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, principally consisting of an equimolar ratio of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol, plays a crucial role in maintaining proper skin barrier function. Conditions which impair barrier integrity, such as in atopic dermatitis, correlate with the alternation of key ceramide subclasses and reduced chain length of acyl moieties. However, there is limited knowledge about the impact of unprotected repeat sun exposure on the skin lipid composition, especially ceramide profiles.This study investigated the effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the ceramide profile using both an ex vivo skin and a clinical model. Lipidomic analysis of UV-exposed skin showed shifts to the composition of ceramide subclasses essential in repairing and strengthening the SC barrier (including CER1[EOS], CER3[NP], and CER6[AP]) and reduced very long-chain acyl moieties. Gene expression analysis and immunohistochemical staining of key enzymes (aSMase, DES1, CerS5, CerS3) suggested that lipid alterations can be attributed to changes within the ceramide biosynthesis process. Topical application of ceramide-containing suncare products help maintain SC-essential ceramide subclasses and proper ceramide chain length, demonstrating the importance of proper photoprotection to maintain healthy skin barrier and ceramide quality during daily sun exposure. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(1):77-85. doi:10.36849/JDD.6331.

ARTICLE: Compromised Skin Barrier and Sensitive Skin in Diverse Populations.

The most important function of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the human epidermis, is the formation of the epidermal permeability barrier. Lipids, particularly ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, together form lamellar membranes in the extracellular spaces of the SC that limit the loss of water and electrolytes. In addition to preventing water and electrolyte loss, the SC as a permeability barrier prevents the entry of harmful irritants, allergens, and microorganisms into the skin. Disruption of the epidermal barrier leads to skin that is irritated, more reactive, and more sensitive than normal skin. SC thickness, lipid profile, and barrier function vary with different ethnic groups, which is also reflected the differences in prevalence and manifestation of diverse skin conditions related to the skin barrier function such as atopic dermatitis and sensitive skin. In addition to these compromised skin barrier related conditions, we are just now starting to understand the direct and indirect impact of COVID-19 on the skin and how current preventative measures are contributing to skin barrier disorders. Our understanding of various approaches for restoration of skin barrier, especially the role of topically applied mixtures of cholesterol, ceramides, and essential/nonessential free fatty acids (FFAs) allows for the strengthening of the compromised skin barrier and alleviation of symptoms and discomfort associated with skin barrier disorders. Ceramide containing products on the market are commonly available and offer protection and reparative benefits to the skin barrier. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):17-22. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589C.

ARTICLE: Efficacy of Ceramide-Containing Formulations on UV-Induced Skin Surface Barrier Alterations.

The human skin, particularly the stratum corneum, serves as a protective barrier against exogenous factors, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pathogen invasions. The impact of UVR on skin cancer and photoaging has been extensively studied. However, the direct impact of UVR on skin barrier integrity under clinical settings remains poorly explored. Due to their benefits in reducing inflammation and promoting skin barrier repair, ceramide-containing formulations can provide added photoprotection benefits. In this study, the efficacy of a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizer were evaluated in preventing UV-induced skin surface barrier changes. Expert grading, instrumental, and tape-stripping assessments demonstrated that UVR induced erythema and hyperpigmentation and caused changes in skin cells surface morphological organization and maturation. Treatment with a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizing cream routine reduced erythema and hyperpigmentation, improved skin hydration, and maintained normal superficial skin cells morphology and turnover after UVR. Our results indicate that barrier-enforcing lipids formulations can provide additional benefits in patient’s daily routine by strengthening the barrier and improving skin health overall against chronic sun exposure. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s29-35. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589E.