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ABSTRACT The stability and the anti-ageing, skin hydrating and anti-erythema effects of a commercialized Crocodylus niloticus Laurenti, 1768, Crocodylidae, oil lotion was determined. The lotion was stored at controlled conditions over six months during which several stability tests were performed. For the clinical efficacy studies lotion was applied on volar forearm skin (female volunteers) and compared to a liquid paraffin-containing reference product. Skin hydrating and anti-ageing effects were determined with a Corneometer®, Cutometer® and Visioscan®, following single (3 h) and multiple applications (12 weeks). The Vapometer® and Mexameter® were utilized to determine this lotion's anti-erythema effects on sodium lauryl sulfate irritated skin. The lotion demonstrated good stability over 6 months. The reference product increased skin hydration and decreased skin wrinkles to a larger extent than the C. niloticus lotion after a single application, whereas the C. niloticus lotion decreased skin scaliness better than the reference product. During the long-term study, the reference product overall increased skin hydration more than the C. niloticus lotion, whereas C. niloticus lotion increased skin elasticity to a larger extent than the reference product. C. niloticus lotion increased skin wrinkles and decreased skin scaliness over 12 weeks. Compared to non-treated, irritated skin, C. niloticus lotion demonstrated some potential anti-inflammatory characteristics.
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BACKGROUND: Honeybush extracts (Cyclopia spp.) can be incorporated into skin care products to treat conditions such as skin dryness and can function as an anti-oxidant. OBJECTIVE: To formulate Honeybush formulations and test it for antioxidant activity, skin penetration, and skin hydrating effects. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Semi-solid formulations containing either Cyclopia maculata (2%) or Cyclopia genistoides (2%) underwent accelerated stability studies. Membrane release studies, Franz cell skin diffusion and tape stripping studies were performed. Antioxidant potential was determined with the 2-thiobarbituric acid-assay and clinical efficacy studies were performed to determine the formulations' effect on skin hydration, scaliness, and smoothness after 2 weeks of treatment on the volar forearm. RESULTS: The formulations were unstable over 3 months. Membrane release, skin diffusion studies, and tape stripping showed that both formulations had inconclusive results due to extremely low concentrations mangiferin and hesperidin present in the Franz cell receptor compartments, stratum corneum-epidermis, and epidermis-dermis layers of the skin. Honeybush extracts showed antioxidant activity with concentrations above 0.6250 mg/ml when compared to the toxin; whereas mangiferin and hesperidin did not show any antioxidant activity on their own. The semisolid formulations showed the potential to emit their own antioxidant activity. Both formulations improved skin smoothness, although they did not improve skin hydration compared to the placebos. C. maculata reduced the skin scaliness to a larger extent than the placebos and C. genistoides. CONCLUSION: Honeybush formulations did not penetrate the skin but did, however, show antioxidant activity and the potential to be used to improve skin scaliness and smoothness.
RESUMEN
OBJECTIVE: To investigate the skin hydrating and anti-erythema activity of gel materials from Aloe marlothii A. Berger and A. ferox Mill. in comparison to that of Aloe barbadensis Miller (Aloe vera) in healthy human volunteers. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Aqueous solutions of the polisaccharidic fractions of the selected aloe leaf gel materials were applied to the volar forearm skin of female subjects. The hydration effect of the aloe gel materials were measured with a Corneometer(®) CM 825, Visioscan(®) VC 98 and Cutometer(®) dual MPA 580 after single and multiple applications. The Mexameter(®) MX 18 was used to determine the anti-erythema effects of the aloe material solutions on irritated skin areas. RESULTS: The A. vera and A. marlothii gel materials hydrated the skin after a single application, whereas the A. ferox gel material showed dehydration effects compared to the placebo. After multiple applications all the aloe materials exhibited dehydration effects on the skin. Mexameter(®) readings showed that A. vera and A. ferox have anti-erythema activity similar to that of the positive control group (i.e. hydrocortisone gel) after 6 days of treatment. CONCLUSION: The polysaccharide component of the gel materials from selected aloe species has a dehydrating effect on the skin after multiple applications. Both A. vera and A. ferox gel materials showed potential to reduce erythema on the skin similar to that of hydrocortisone gel.
