Global Trends of Cosmeceutical in Nanotechnology: A Review.

Nanotechnology suggests different innovative solutions to augment the worth of cosmetic products through the targeted delivery of content that manifests scientific innovation in research and development. Different nanosystems, like liposomes, niosomes, microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanoform lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, and nanospheres, are employed in cosmetics. These nanosystems exhibit various innovative cosmetic functions, including site-specific targeting, controlled content release, more stability, improved skin penetration and enhanced entrapment efficiency of loaded compounds. Thus, cosmeceuticals are assumed as the highest-progressing fragment of the personal care industries that have progressed drastically over the years. In recent decades, cosmetic science has widened the origin of its application in different fields. Nanosystems in cosmetics are beneficial in treating different conditions like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dandruff, photoaging and hair damage. This review highlights the different nanosystems used in cosmetics for the targeted delivery of loaded content and commercially available formulations. Moreover, this review article has delineated different patented nanocosmetic formulation nanosystems and future aspects of nanocarriers in cosmetics.

Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the ß-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

A Conformable Ultrasound Patch for Cavitation-Enhanced Transdermal Cosmeceutical Delivery.

Increased consumer interest in healthy-looking skin demands a safe and effective method to increase transdermal absorption of innovative therapeutic cosmeceuticals. However, permeation of small-molecule drugs is limited by the innate barrier function of the stratum corneum. Here, a conformable ultrasound patch (cUSP) that enhances transdermal transport of niacinamide by inducing intermediate-frequency sonophoresis in the fluid coupling medium between the patch and the skin is reported. The cUSP consists of piezoelectric transducers embedded in a soft elastomer to create localized cavitation pockets (0.8 cm2 , 1 mm deep) over larger areas of conformal contact (20 cm2 ). Multiphysics simulation models, acoustic spectrum analysis, and high-speed videography are used to characterize transducer deflection, acoustic pressure fields, and resulting cavitation bubble dynamics in the coupling medium. The final system demonstrates a 26.2-fold enhancement in niacinamide transport in a porcine model in vitro with a 10 min ultrasound application, demonstrating the suitability of the device for short-exposure, large-area application of sonophoresis for patients and consumers suffering from skin conditions and premature skin aging.

Dual-functional carboxymethyl levan-based protein carrier for cosmeceutical application of human epidermal growth factor.

Human epidermal growth factor (hEGF) has been a subject of extensive research as its wide range of physiological functions has many potential applications. However, due to the low stability of hEGF, its physiological effect is easily lost under conditions of use. To compensate for this, we developed a stable delivery system using levan-based nanoparticles. The entrapment yield of various tested proteins was significantly improved by employing carboxymethyl levan (CML) instead of levan; the entrapment yield of the CML-hEGF nanoparticles was 84.1 %. The size and zeta potential of the nanoparticles were identified as 199.9 ± 3.87 nm and -19.1 mV, respectively, using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and particle size analysis. Dual biological functions of the nanoparticles (skin regeneration and moisturizing) were identified through collagen synthesis activity and aquaporin 3 expression level analysis. Stability of the prepared nanoparticles was also investigated via cell proliferation activity comparison under mimicked physiological conditions. The CML-hEGF nanoparticles maintained cell proliferation activity over 100 % for 6 weeks, while free hEGF was almost inactivated within 2 weeks. Taken together, our results indicate that the CML-based hEGF nanoparticles can be used in pharma- and cosmeceutical applications, guaranteeing a high entrapment capability, functionality, and stability.

Biotechnological Approaches to Producing Natural Antioxidants: Anti-Ageing and Skin Longevity Prospects.

Plants are the main source of bioactive compounds that can be used for the formulation of cosmetic products. Plant extracts have numerous proven health benefits, among which are anti-ageing and skin-care properties. However, with the increased demand for plant-derived cosmetic products, there is a crucial prerequisite for establishing alternative approaches to conventional methods to ensure sufficient biomass for sustainable production. Plant tissue culture techniques, such as in vitro root cultures, micropropagation, or callogenesis, offer the possibility to produce considerable amounts of bioactive compounds independent of external factors that may influence their production. This production can also be significantly increased with the implementation of other biotechnological approaches such as elicitation, metabolic engineering, precursor and/or nutrient feeding, immobilization, and permeabilization. This work aimed to evaluate the potential of biotechnological tools for producing bioactive compounds, with a focus on bioactive compounds with anti-ageing properties, which can be used for the development of green-label cosmeceutical products. In addition, some examples demonstrating the use of plant tissue culture techniques to produce high-value bioactive ingredients for cosmeceutical applications are also addressed, showing the importance of these tools and approaches for the sustainable production of plant-derived cosmetic products.

Phytochemical Profiling of the Leaf Extract of Ximenia americana var. caffra and Its Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Antiaging Activities In Vitro and in Caenorhabditis elegans: A Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Approach.

We previously annotated the phytochemical constituents of a root extract from Ximenia americana var. caffra and highlighted its hepatoprotective and hypoglycemic properties. We here extended our study on the leaf extract and identified its phytoconstituents using HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS. In addition, we explored its antioxidant, antibacterial, and antiaging activities in vitro and in an animal model, Caenorhabditis elegans. Results from HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS confirmed that the leaves contain 23 secondary metabolites consisting of condensed tannins, flavonol glycosides, flavone glycosides, and flavonol diglycosides. The leaf extract demonstrated significant antioxidant activity in vitro with IC50 value of 5 µg/mL in the DPPH assay and 18.32 µg/mL in the FRAP assay. It also inhibited four enzymes (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase) crucially involved in skin remodeling and aging processes with comparable activities to reference drugs along with four pure secondary metabolites identified from the extract. In accordance with the in vitro result, in vivo tests using two transgenic strains of C. elegans demonstrated its ability to reverse oxidative stress. Evidence included an increased survival rate in nematodes treated with the prooxidant juglone to 68.9% compared to the 24.8% in untreated worms and a reduced accumulation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) in a dose-dependent manner to 77.8%. The leaf extract also reduced levels of the expression of HSP 16.2 in a dose-dependent manner to 86.4%. Nuclear localization of the transcription factor DAF-16 was up to 10 times higher in worms treated with the leaf extract than in the untreated worms. The extract also inhibited the biofilm formation of Pseudomonas aeruginosa (a pathogen in skin infections) and reduced the swimming and swarming mobilities in a dose-dependent fashion. In conclusion, leaves of X. americana are a promising candidate for preventing oxidative stress-induced conditions, including skin aging.

Cosmeceutical Therapy: Engaging the Repercussions of UVR Photoaging on the Skin's Circadian Rhythm.

Sunlight is an important factor in regulating the central circadian rhythm, including the modulation of our sleep/wake cycles. Sunlight had also been discovered to have a prominent influence on our skin's circadian rhythm. Overexposure or prolonged exposure to the sun can cause skin photodamage, such as the formation of irregular pigmentation, collagen degradation, DNA damage, and even skin cancer. Hence, this review will be looking into the detrimental effects of sunlight on our skin, not only at the aspect of photoaging but also at its impact on the skin's circadian rhythm. The growing market trend of natural-product-based cosmeceuticals as also caused us to question their potential to modulate the skin's circadian rhythm. Questions about how the skin's circadian rhythm could counteract photodamage and how best to maximize its biopotential will be discussed in this article. These discoveries regarding the skin's circadian rhythm have opened up a completely new level of understanding of our skin's molecular mechanism and may very well aid cosmeceutical companies, in the near future, to develop better products that not only suppress photoaging but remain effective and relevant throughout the day.

Free amino acid contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species: a search for alternative natural free amino acid sources for cosmeceutical applications.

Free amino acids (FAAs), the major constituents of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), are very important for maintaining the moisture balance of human skin and their deficiency results in dry skin conditions. There is a great interest in the identification and use of nature-based sources of these molecules for such cosmeceutical applications. The objective of the present study was, therefore, to investigate the FAA contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species; and select the best sources so as to use them for the stated purpose. About 59 different plant species and oyster mushroom were included in the study and the concentrations of 27 FAAs were analyzed. Each sample was collected, lyophilized, extracted using aqueous solvent, derivatized with Fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl chloride (Fmoc-Cl) prior to solid-phase extraction and quantified using Liquid Chromatography Electrospray Ionization Tandem Mass Spectrometric (LC-ESI-MS/MS) system. All the 27 FAAs were detected in most of the samples. The dominant FAAs that are part of the NMF were found at sufficiently high concentration in the mushroom and some of the plants. This indicates that FAAs that could be included in the preparations for the management of dry skin condition can be obtained from a single natural resource and the use of these resources for the specified purpose have both economic and therapeutic advantage in addition to fulfilling customer needs.

Redirecting drug repositioning to discover innovative cosmeceuticals.

Skin appearance is essential for self-esteem and quality of life; consequently, skin care products represent a huge market. In particular, cosmeceuticals constitute a hybrid category of skin care formulations, at the interphase of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, rationally designed to target (patho) physiological mechanisms aiming to enhance skin health and appearance. Cosmeceuticals are marketed as anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, hair regrowth, skin whitening and wound healing agents with special emphasis on scar-free healing. An overview on recent cutting-edge advances concerning the discovery and development of enhanced performance cosmeceuticals by drug repositioning approaches is presented here. In this context, we propose "target repositioning," a new term, to highlight that druggable protein targets implicated in multiple diseases (hubs in the diseasome) can be exploited to accelerate the discovery of molecularly targeted cosmeceuticals that can promote skin health as an added benefit, which is a novel concept not described before. In this direction, emphasis is placed on the role of mouse models, for often untreatable skin diseases, as well as recent breakthroughs on monogenic rare skin syndromes, in promoting compound repositioning to innovative cosmeceuticals.

Additive effect of combined pollutants to UV induced skin OxInflammation damage. Evaluating the protective topical application of a cosmeceutical mixture formulation.

Since the skin is one of the targets of the harmful effects of environmental insults, several studies have investigated the effects of outdoor stressors on cutaneous tissue. Ozone (O3), particulate matter (PM), and ultraviolet radiation (UV) have all been shown to induce skin damage through disruption of tissue redox homeostasis, resulting in the so called "OxInflammation" condition. However, few studies have explored whether these stressors can act synergistically in cutaneous tissues. In the present work, we evaluated whether O3, PM, and UV, which are the most common environmental skin insults, act synergistically in inducing skin damage, and whether this effect could be prevented through topical application of a cosmeceutical formulation mixture (CF Mix) containing 15% vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid), 1% vitamin E (α-tocopherol), and 0.5% ferulic acid. Human skin explants obtained from three different subjects were sequentially exposed to 200 mJ UV light, 0.25 ppm O3 for 2 h, and 30 min of diesel engine exhaust (DEE), alone or in combination for 4 days (time point D1 and D4). We observed a clear additive effect of O3 and DEE in combination with UV in increasing levels of several oxidative (4HNE, HO-1) and inflammatory (COX2, NF-κB) markers and loss of barrier-associated proteins, such as filaggrin and involucrin. Furthermore, daily topical pre-treatment with the CF Mix prevented upregulation of the inflammatory and oxidative markers and the loss of both involucrin and filaggrin. In conclusion, this study is the first to investigate the combined effects of three of the most harmful outdoor stressors on human skin and suggests that daily topical application may prevent pollution-induced skin damage.

The inhibitory effect of silk sericin against ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis and its potential use in cosmeceutics as an anti-hyperpigmentation compound.

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced redox imbalance in melanocytes triggers the activation of tyrosinase that results in melanogenesis and its related skin disorders. Supplementation of biological reductants or anti-tyrosinase compounds inhibits such melanogenesis. Silk sericin (SS), a globular protein, is known to possess antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities along with other biological attributes. However, its inhibitory activity against UVR-induced melanogenesis has yet to be explored. In the current study, we have scientifically explored the inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis. Anti-tyrosinase activity of SS was assessed using mushroom tyrosinase, showing that Antheraea assamensis sericin (AAS) and Philosamia ricini sericin (PRS) inhibited 50% of its activity. Inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis was assessed by measuring the cellular melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in mouse melanoma. SS pretreatment significantly reduced cellular melanin and ROS production in UV irradiated melanocytes compared with SS untreated cells. AAS treatment before UVA or UVB irradiation significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity. Rheological studies showed that the skin care formulation prepared by the addition of AAS to the basic formulation minimally affected its flow properties. Altogether, our results validate that AAS efficiently inhibited UVR-induced melanogenesis and it could be used as a potential antioxidant molecule in skin care cosmeceutics.

Enrichment of cordycepin for cosmeceutical applications: culture systems and strategies.

Cordyceps spp. is the herbal medication initially used in China and has been reported as the unique resource of cordycepin. Cordycepin exhibits many health benefits, including anti-photoaging and anti-pigmentation; therefore, it potentially is a bioactive ingredient of cosmetic products. In order to enrich cordycepin content in Cordyceps, two artificial cultivation procedures, which are solid-state fermentation and liquid culture, were developed and optimized. The aim of this review is to illustrate cordycepin biosynthesis pathway in Cordyceps, and its bioactivity for cosmeceutical applications, as well as comparing the two different cultivation procedures. The basic model of artificial cultivation of Cordyceps is introduced; meanwhile, the potential application of modern biotechnology to the artificial cultivation is also discussed. This review should be of interest to the readers for the development of cordycepin bioproduction in order to be applied in cosmeceutical industry and some other uses.

A Prospective Clinical and Instrumental Study on the Effects of a Transcutaneous Cosmeceutical Gel that is Claimed to Produce CO2.

Carboxytherapy is the therapeutic use of carbon dioxide (CO2) in its gaseous state. Since 1933, carboxytherapy has referred to either the subcutaneous injection of CO2 or percutaneous application in a warm bath. The present clinical study was performed to determine if there were any changes in the dermis after the application of a transcutaneous gel, which is claimed to produce CO2, and, if so, how these changes compared to those with CO2 injection. Ten patients received transcutaneous treatment with the gel on one side of the face and the other side without any product was used as a control. We used videocapillaroscopy with an optic probe (VCSO) to evaluate the changes in the microcirculation of the skin. VCSO was performed for the treated right and untreated left ear lobes in each patient. VCSO was performed before treatment was started (VCSO1) and after 7 days of treatment (VCSO2). A comparison of VCSO1 to VCSO2 showed an increase in the microcirculation, an increase in vertical and horizontal capillaries, and a reduction in the area of ischemia. These results are similar to those observed in other studies with CO2 injection. In conclusion, use of this transcutaneous CO2 gel produced changes in the dermis similar to those observed with subcutaneous injection of CO2.

Resveratrol, 4' Acetoxy Resveratrol, R-equol, Racemic Equol or S-equol as Cosmeceuticals to Improve Dermal Health.

Phytochemicals are botanical compounds used in dermatology applications as cosmeceuticals to improve skin health. Resveratrol and equol are two of the best-known polyphenolic or phytoestrogens having similar chemical structures and some overlapping biological functions to 17ß-estradiol. Human skin gene expression was reviewed for 28 different biomarkers when resveratrol, 4' acetoxy resveratrol (4AR), R-equol, racemic equol or S-equol were tested. Sirtuin 1 activator (SIRT 1) was stimulated by resveratrol and 4AR only. Resveratrol, R-equol and racemic equol were effective on the aging biomarkers proliferating cell nuclear factor (PCNA), nerve growth factor (NGF), 5α-reductase and the calcium binding proteins S100 A8 and A9. Racemic equol and 4AR displayed among the highest levels for the collagens, elastin and tissue inhibitor of the matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP 1). S-equol displayed the lowest level of effectiveness compared to the other compounds. The 4AR analog was more effective compared to resveratrol by 1.6-fold. R-equol and racemic equol were almost equal in potency displaying greater inhibition vs. resveratrol or its 4' analog for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), but among the inflammatory biomarkers, resveratrol, 4AR, R-equol and racemic equol displayed high inhibition. Thus, these cosmeceuticals display promise to improve dermal health; however, further study is warranted to understand how phytochemicals protect/enhance the skin.

Molecular characterization of glycation-associated skin ageing: an alternative skin model to study in vitro antiglycation activity of topical cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical formulations.

BACKGROUND: Glycation is a nonenzymatic reaction that cross-links a sugar molecule and protein macromolecule to form advanced glycation products (AGEs) that are associated with various age-related disorders; thus glycation plays an important role in skin chronological ageing. OBJECTIVES: To develop a novel in vitro skin glycation model as a screening tool for topical formulations with antiglycation properties and to further characterize, at the molecular level, the glycation stress-driven skin ageing mechanism. METHODS: The glycation model was developed using human reconstituted full-thickness skin; the presence of Nε -(carboxymethyl) lysine (CML) was used as evidence of the degree of glycation. Topical application of emulsion containing a well-known antiglycation compound (aminoguanidine) was used to verify the sensitivity and robustness of the model. Cytokine immunoassay, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction and histological analysis were further implemented to characterize the molecular mechanisms of skin ageing in the skin glycation model. RESULTS: Transcriptomic and cytokine profiling analyses in the skin glycation model demonstrated multiple biological changes, including extracellular matrix catabolism, skin barrier function impairment, oxidative stress and subsequently the inflammatory response. Darkness and yellowness of skin tone observed in the in vitro skin glycation model correlated well with the degree of glycation stress. CONCLUSIONS: The newly developed skin glycation model in this study has provided a new technological dimension in screening antiglycation properties of topical pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical formulations. This study concomitantly provides insights into skin ageing mechanisms driven by glycation stress, which could be useful in formulating skin antiageing therapy in future studies.

Euglenoid flagellates: a multifaceted biotechnology platform.

Euglenoid flagellates are mainly fresh water protists growing in highly diverse environments making them well-suited for a multiplicity of biotechnology applications. Phototrophic euglenids possesses complex chloroplasts of green algal origin bounded by three membranes. Euglena nuclear and plastid genome organization, gene structure and gene expression are distinctly different from other organisms. Our observations on the model organism Euglena gracilis indicate that transcription of both the plastid and nuclear genome is insensitive to environmental changes and that gene expression is regulated mainly at the post-transcriptional level. Euglena plastids have been proposed as a site for the production of proteins and value added metabolites of biotechnological interest. Euglena has been shown to be a suitable protist species to be used for production of several compounds that are used in the production of cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals, such as α-tocopherol, wax esters, polyunsaturated fatty acids, biotin and tyrosine. The storage polysaccharide, paramylon, has immunostimulatory properties and has shown a promise for biomaterials production. Euglena biomass can be used as a nutritional supplement in aquaculture and in animal feed. Diverse applications of Euglena in environmental biotechnology include ecotoxicological risk assessment, heavy metal bioremediation, bioremediation of industrial wastewater and contaminated water.