Platycodon grandiflorum saponins: Ionic liquid-ultrasound-assisted extraction, antioxidant, whitening, and antiaging activity.

This study explored the use of ionic liquid-ultrasound (ILU)-assisted extraction to enhance the extraction rate of Platycodon grandiflorum saponins (PGSs), and the content, extraction mechanism, antioxidant activity, whitening, and antiaging activity of PGSs prepared using ILU, ultrasound-water, thermal reflux-ethanol, and cellulase hydrolysis were compared. The ILU method particularly disrupted the cell wall, improved PGS extraction efficiency, and yielded a high total saponin content of 1.45 ± 0.02 mg/g. Five monomeric saponins were identified, with platycodin D being the most abundant at 1.357 mg/g. PGSs displayed excellent in vitro antioxidant activity and exhibited inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The results suggest that PGSs may have broad antioxidant, skin-whitening, and antiaging potential to a large extent. Overall, this study provided valuable insights into the extraction, identification, and bioactivities of PGSs, which could serve as a reference for future development and application of these compounds in the functional foods industry.

Needle-Free Injection of Metformin Ameliorates Skin Photoaging Through Inhibition of Ferroptosis and Oxidative Stress.

BACKGROUND: Skin photoaging is a complex process of skin aging caused by continuous exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation through oxidative stress and other pathways, yet effective treatments are scarce. Metformin is a drug with both anti-senescence and antioxidant functions; however, there are fewer studies on photoaging. The study aimed to investigate the role of needle-free injection of metformin in alleviating ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) induced skin photoaging, and to explore the mechanisms through which metformin alleviates fibroblast photoaging by inhibiting ferroptosis and oxidative stress. METHODS: In our study, we initially performed bioinformatic analysis on the gene expression profile (GSE38308), and our RNA sequencing (RNA-Seq) found that photoaging is associated with ferroptosis. We investigated the potential skin-protective mechanism of metformin by utilizing a UVB-induced rat skin photoaging model and human skin fibroblasts (HSF) treated with UVB. For in vitro experiments, cellular senescence was detected using SA-ß-galactosidase staining and p16 in western blot. Ferroptosis and oxidative stress were assessed via western blot (glutathione Peroxidase 4 (GPX4) and nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)), reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels, transmission electron microscope, Lillie's staining, and immunofluorescence staining. During in vivo experiments, metformin was administered by needle-free jet injectors injected into the backs of rats. The effectiveness of metformin was detected using the Masson staining and western blot. RESULTS: We found that the ferroptosis pathway was closely associated with photoaging through bioinformatics analysis. In the UVB-induced photoaging HSF cells, treatment with metformin exhibits the following effects: a reduction in blue-stained granules in SA-ß-galactosidase staining and a decrease in the expression of p16, indicating a reduction in cellular senescence. Moreover, metformin leads to decreased ROS levels and increased expression of the oxidative stress-related protein Nrf2, suggesting inhibition of oxidative stress within the cells. Additionally, metformin results in an elevation of GPX4 expression, a decrease in blue-stained granules in Lillie's staining, and a reduction in ferroptosis-associated mitochondrial damage, indicating a decline in ferroptosis. Needle-free injection of metformin could directly achieve therapeutic effects by affecting HSF cells in the dermis. The needle-free injection of metformin treatment effectively improved the photoaging skin in rats compared to the photoaging group, ameliorated oxidative stress, and reduced ferroptosis. CONCLUSIONS: Our data highlights a novel needle-free injection of metformin that improves photoaging and has good therapeutic potential.

Downregulated SPESP1-driven fibroblast senescence decreases wound healing in aged mice.

BACKGROUND: Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) are essential in the processes of skin ageing and wound healing. However, the underlying mechanism of HDFs in skin healing of the elderly has not been well defined. This study aims to elucidate the mechanisms of HDFs senescence and how senescent HDFs affect wound healing in aged skin. METHODS: The expression and function of sperm equatorial segment protein 1 (SPESP1) in skin ageing were evaluated via in vivo and in vitro experiments. To delve into the potential molecular mechanisms by which SPESP1 influences skin ageing, a combination of techniques was employed, including proteomics, RNA sequencing, immunoprecipitation, chromatin immunoprecipitation and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry analyses. Clearance of senescent cells by dasatinib plus quercetin (D+Q) was investigated to explore the role of SPESP1-induced senescent HDFs in wound healing. RESULTS: Here, we define the critical role of SPESP1 in ameliorating HDFs senescence and retarding the skin ageing process. Mechanistic studies demonstrate that SPESP1 directly binds to methyl-binding protein, leading to Decorin demethylation and subsequently upregulation of its expression. Moreover, SPESP1 knockdown delays wound healing in young mice and SPESP1 overexpression induces wound healing in old mice. Notably, pharmacogenetic clearance of senescent cells by D+Q improved wound healing in SPESP1 knockdown skin. CONCLUSIONS: Taken together, these findings reveal the critical role of SPESP1 in skin ageing and wound healing, expecting to facilitate the development of anti-ageing strategies and improve wound healing in the elderly.

Establishment and application of perceived age prediction model for the periocular aging research of Chinese Han women.

BACKGROUND: The assessment of skin aging through skin measurements faces limitations, making perceived age evaluation a more valuable and direct tool for assessing skin aging. Given that the aging process markedly affects the appearance of the eye contour, characterizing the eye region could be beneficial for perceived age assessment. This study aimed to analyze age-correlated changes in the eye contour within the Chinese Han female population and to develop, validate, and apply a multiple linear regression model for predicting perceived age. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A naïve panel of 107 Chinese women assessed the perceived ages of 212 Chinese Han women. Instrumental analysis evaluated periorbital parameters, including palpebral fissure width (PFW), palpebral fissure height (PFH), acclivity of palpebral fissure (AX), angle of inner canthal (AEN), and angle of outer canthal (AEX). These parameters were used to construct a multiple linear regression model for predicting the perceived ages of Chinese Han women. A combined treatment using Fotona 4D and an anti-aging eye cream, formulated with plant extracts, peptides, and antioxidants, was conducted to verify the cream's anti-aging efficacy and safety. This eye cream was then tested in a large-scale clinical trial involving 101 participants. The prediction model was employed in this trial to assess the perceived ages of the women after an 8-week application of the eye cream. RESULTS: All parameters were observed to decrease with age. An intergroup comparison indicated that eyelid aging in Chinese Han women accelerates beyond the age of 50. Consequently, a linear regression model was constructed and validated, with the perceived age being calculated as 183.159 - 1.078 * AEN - 4.487 * PFW + 6.061 * PFH - 1.003 * AX - 0.328 * AEX. The anti-aging efficacy and safety of the eye cream were confirmed through combined treatment with Fotona 4D, showing improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, and dark circles under the eyes. In a large-scale clinical evaluation using this eye cream, a perceived age prediction model was applied, suggesting that 8 weeks of use made participants appear 2.25 years younger. CONCLUSION: Our study developed and validated a multiple linear regression model to predict the perceived age of Chinese Han women. This model was successfully utilized in a large-scale clinical evaluation of anti-aging eye cream, revealing that 8 weeks of usage made participants appear 2.25 years younger. This method effectively bridges the gap between clinical research and consumer perceptions, explores the complex factors influencing perceived age, and aims to improve anti-aging formulations.

Causal relationship between dyslipidemia and risk of facial aging: Insights from Mendelian randomization in East Asian populations.

BACKGROUND: Emerging observational studies showed an association between dyslipidemia and aging. However, it remains unclear whether this association is causal, particularly in the case of Asians, which are aging more rapidly than other continents. Given the visible manifestations of aging often include changes in facial appearance, the objective of this study is to assess the causal relationship between dyslipidemia and facial aging in East Asian populations. METHODS: SNPs related to dyslipidemia in East Asian people such as Total cholesterol (TC), High-density-lipoprotein cholesterol (HDL), Low-density-lipoprotein cholesterol (LDL), and Triglyceride (TG) along with outcomes data on facial aging, were extracted from public genome-wide association studies (GWAS). A two-sample Mendelian randomization (MR) analysis was then performed using publicly available GWAS data to investigate the potential causal relationship. The effect estimates were primarily calculated using the fixed-effects inverse variance weighted (IVW) method. RESULTS: Totally, 88 SNPs related to HDL among 70657 East Asian participants in GWAS. Based on the primary causal effects model using MR analyses with the IVW method, high HDL level was demonstrated as significantly related to the risk of facial aging (OR, 1.060; 95% CI, 1.005-1.119, p = 0.034), while high TC level (OR, 0.995; 95% CI, 0.920-1.076, p = 0.903), high LDL level (OR, 0.980, 95% CI, 0.924-1.041, p = 0.515), as well as high TG level (OR, 0.999, 95% CI, 0.932-1.071, p = 0.974), showed no significant correlation with facial aging. CONCLUSIONS: The two-sample MR analysis conducted in this study revealed a positive causal relationship between high HDL levels and facial aging. In contrast, facial aging demonstrated no significant correlation with high levels of TC, LDL, or TG. Further large-sample prospective studies are needed to validate these findings and to provide appropriate recommendations regarding nutrition management to delay the aging process among old patients in East Asia.

Intra-Individual Paired Mass Spectrometry Dataset for Decoding Solar-Induced Proteomic Changes in Facial Skin.

Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by prolonged exposure to solar radiation. The visual alterations manifest as wrinkles, reduced skin elasticity, uneven skin tone, as well as other signs that surpass the expected outcomes of natural aging. Beyond these surface changes, there is a complex interplay of molecular alterations, encompassing shifts in cellular function, DNA damage, and protein composition disruptions. This data descriptor introduces a unique dataset derived from ten individuals, each with a minimum of 18 years of professional experience as a driver, who are asymmetrically and chronically exposed to solar radiation due to their driving orientation. Skin samples were independently collected from each side of the face using a microdermabrasion-like procedure and analyzed on an Exploris 240 mass spectrometer. Our adapted proteomic statistical framework leverages the sample pairing to provide robust insights. This dataset delves into the molecular differences in exposed skin and serves as a foundational resource for interdisciplinary research in photodermatology, targeted skincare treatments, and computational modelling of skin health.

The Effect of α-Arbutin on UVB-Induced Damage and Its Underlying Mechanism.

Ultraviolet radiation can heighten tyrosinase activity, stimulate melanocyte production, impede the metabolism of numerous melanocytes, and result in the accumulation of plaques on the skin surface. α-Arbutin, a bioactive substance extracted from the arbutin plant, has been widely used for skin whitening. In this study, the whitening effect of α-arbutin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and alleviating the photoaging effect induced by UVB are investigated. The results indicate that α-arbutin can inhibit skin inflammation, and its effectiveness is positively correlated with concentration. Moreover, α-arbutin can reduce the skin epidermal thickness, decrease the number of inflammatory cells, and down-regulate the expression levels of IL-1ß, IL-6 and TNF-α, which are inflammatory factors. It also promotes the expression of COL-1 collagen, thus playing an important role in anti-inflammatory action. Network pharmacology, metabolomics and transcriptomics further confirm that α-arbutin is related to the L-tyrosine metabolic pathway and may interfere with various signaling pathways related to melanin and other photoaging by regulating metabolic changes. Therefore, α-arbutin has a potential inhibitory effect on UVB-induced photoaging and possesses a whitening effect as a cosmetic compound.

YAP prevents senescence of dermal fibroblast and inhibits melanogenesis via paracrine effect of DKK1.

Senile skin hyperpigmentation displays remarkable histopathological features of dermal aging. The crosstalk between melanocytes and dermal fibroblasts plays crucial roles in aging-related pigmentation. While senescent fibroblasts can upregulate pro-melanogenic factors, the role of anti-melanogenic factors, such as dickkopf1 (DKK1), and the upstream regulatory mechanism during aging remain obscure. This study investigated the roles of yes-associated protein (YAP) and DKK1 in the regulation of dermal fibroblast senescence and melanogenesis. Our findings demonstrated decreased YAP activity and DKK1 levels in intrinsic and extrinsic senescent fibroblasts. YAP depletion induced fibroblast senescence and downregulated the expression and secretion of DKK1, whereas YAP overexpression partially reversed the effect. The transcriptional regulation of DKK1 by YAP was supported by dual-luciferase reporter and chromatin immunoprecipitation assays. Moreover, YAP depletion in fibroblasts upregulated Wnt/ß-catenin in melanocytes and stimulated melanogenesis, which was partially rescued by the re-supplementation of DKK1. Conversely, overexpression of YAP in senescent fibroblasts decreased Wnt/ß-catenin levels in melanocytes and inhibited melanogenesis. Additionally, reduced levels of YAP and DKK1 were verified in the dermis of solar lentigines. These findings suggest that, during skin aging, epidermal pigmentation may be influenced by YAP in the dermal microenvironment via the paracrine effect of DKK1.

What you need to know about common skin problems in older adults.

Skin ageing is a multifaceted process impacted by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Drier and less elastic skin with declining sebum levels in older age makes ageing skin more vulnerable to various skin conditions, including infections, inflammatory dermatoses, and cancers. Skin problems are common among older adults due to the effects of ageing, polypharmacy and multimorbidity impacting not only physical health but wellbeing and quality of life. In the UK, older adults in geriatric medicine wards may present with various skin conditions. Hospitalised older individuals may have undiagnosed skin problems unrelated to their admission, making hospitalisation an opportunity to manage unmet needs. Asteatotic eczema, incontinence associated dermatitis, seborrhoeic dermatitis, chronic venous insufficiency, and cellulitis are common disorders clinicians encounter in the geriatric medicine wards. This article outlines the importance of performing comprehensive skin assessments to help diagnose and commence management for these common conditions.

Understanding the perception of sunscreen utility in African Americans.

Dyschromia is a top diagnosis among African Americans (AA). Sunscreen is an essential part of its management, but AA have low sunscreen use. We sought to examine the perception of sunscreen utility in dyschromia and photoaging among patients who identify as AA or Black. This cross-sectional study recruited participants from the Case Western Reserve University Academic Dental Clinic. Participants completed an electronic survey that contained questions related to sunscreen use, knowledge of the sun's role in hyperpigmentation and photoaging, and whether sunscreen could be used for hyperpigmentation and photoaging. Of the 151 participants recruited, 63.6% (n = 96) were women and 36.4% (n = 57) were men. Consistent with previous reports, participants had lower sunscreen use (20.5%) than whites (43.5%). The majority of participants (80.1% and 58.3%, respectively) didn't attribute the sun to hyperpigmentation or photoaging. Participants with dark/brown spots were significantly more likely to not attribute the sun to hyperpigmentation than those without spots. (p = 0.003) Limitations for this study include its small sample size, recall and reporter bias, question misinterpretation, and lack of question neutrality. This study highlights the knowledge gap of a major contributing factor to dyschromia which in turn could be leading to their view of the decreased utility of sunscreen.

Comparisons between Caucasian-validated photo-numeric scales and Korean-validated photo-numeric scales for photo-ageing. Insights from the Singapore/Malaysia cross-sectional genetics epidemiology study (SMCGES) cohort.

BACKGROUND: Photo-ageing is a form of skin ageing which affects the entire face. A photo-aged skin has a diverse variety of wrinkles and dyspigmentation all over the face. Here, we discuss photo-ageing on the Chinese skin evaluated using a photo-numeric scale developed and validated on Caucasian skin (i.e., Caucasian scale) and evaluated using a photo-numeric scale developed and validated on Korean skin (i.e., Korean scale). The Korean scale can be subdivided into two scales that separately address the wrinkling and dyspigmentation constituents of photo-ageing. AIM: As there are currently no photo-ageing scales for Chinese skin, the main objective of this study is to adapt existing photo-ageing photo-numeric scales for use on ethnic Chinese skin. METHOD: Three trained assessors studied facial photo-ageing on 1,081 ethnic Chinese young adults from the Singapore/Malaysia Cross-sectional Genetics Epidemiology Study (SMCGES) cohort. RESULTS: All assessors are highly internally consistent (Weighted Kappa (κw) values≥0.952). We found that the Caucasian scale and Korean scale give nearly synonymous results for the wrinkling constituent of photo-ageing (R2 = 0.9386). The two scales are strongly concordant (Spearman's Rank Correlation (ρ) value: 0.62 ± 0.06, p = 1.31×10-84). A weak-to-moderate inter-scalar level of agreement (Cohen's Kappa (κ) values: 0.38 ± 0.05, p = 8.87×10-53) persists and is statistically significant after accounting for agreements due to chance. When tested on ethnic Chinese skin, both scales detect photo-ageing consistently (Area under curve [AUC] values: 0.76-0.84). Additionally, the Korean scale for the dyspigmentation constituent of photo-ageing is concordant with both the Caucasian scale (R2 = 0.7888) and the Korean scale for the wrinkling constituent of photo-ageing (R2 = 0.7734). CONCLUSION: Our results show that the Caucasian scale is suitable for capturing photo-ageing on Chinese skin, especially wrinkle variations. The Korean dyspigmentation scale supplements the Caucasian scale to capture dyspigmentation patterns on Chinese skin that may be absent on Caucasian skin. Currently, photo-ageing scales for Chinese skin are absent. When developed, these photo-ageing scales must be properly validated for their ability to capture photo-ageing of the entire face.

Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy.

Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.

Unveiling the metabolites underlying the skin anti-ageing properties of Cytinus hypocistis (L.) L. through a biochemometric approach.

BACKGROUND: The genus Cytinus, recognised as one of the most enigmatic in the plant kingdom, has garnered attention for its bioactive potential, particularly its skin anti-ageing properties. Despite this recognition, much remains to be accomplished regarding deciphering and isolating its most active compounds. HYPOTHESIS: This study aimed to identify the compounds responsible for C. hypocistis skin anti-ageing potential. METHODS: Using multivariate analysis, a biochemometric approach was applied to identify the discriminant metabolites by integrating extracts' chemical profile (Liquid Chromatography-High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry, LCHRMS) and bioactive properties. The identified bioactive metabolite was structurally elucidated by 1D and 2D Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR). RESULTS: Among the studied bioactivities, the anti-elastase results exhibited a significant variation among the samples from different years. After the biochemometric analysis, the compound 2,3:4,6-bis(hexahydroxydiphenoyl)glucose, with a molecular mass of 784.075 Da, was structurally elucidated as the discriminant feature responsible for the outstanding human neutrophil elastase inhibition. Remarkably, the subfraction containing this compound exhibited a tenfold improvement in neutrophil elastase inhibition efficacy compared to the crude extract; its effectiveness fell within the same range as SPCK, a potent irreversible neutrophil elastase inhibitor. Moreover, this subfraction displayed no cytotoxicity or phototoxicity and excellent efficacy for the tested anti-ageing properties. CONCLUSIONS: Hydrolysable tannins were confirmed as the metabolites behind C. hypocistis skin anti-ageing properties, effectively mitigating critical molecular mechanisms that influence the phenotypically distinct ageing clinical manifestations. Pedunculagin was particularly effective in inhibiting neutrophil elastase, considered one of the most destructive enzymes in skin ageing.

Lapagyl mitigates UV-induced inflammation and immunosuppression via Foxp3+ Tregs and CCL pathway: A single-cell transcriptomics study.

BACKGROUND: As the largest organ of the body, the skin is constantly subjected to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), leading to inflammations and changes that mirror those seen in chronological aging. Although various small molecule drugs have been explored for treating skin photoaging, they typically suffer from low stability and a high incidence of adverse reactions. Consequently, the continued investigation of photoaging treatments, particularly those utilizing herbal products, remains a critical clinical endeavor. One such herbal product, Lapagyl, is derived from the bark of the lapacho tree and possesses antioxidant efficacies that could be beneficial in combating skin photoaging. PURPOSE: This research aimed to evaluate the efficacy of the herbal product Lapagyl in combating UVR-induced skin photoaging. Additionally, it sought to unravel the mechanisms by which Lapagyl promotes the regeneration of the skin extracellular matrix. METHODS: To investigate whether Lapagyl can alleviate skin aging and damage, a UVR radiation model was established using SKH-1 hairless mice. The dorsal skins of these mice were evaluated for wrinkle formation, texture, moisture, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and elasticity. Pathological assessments were conducted to determine Lapagyl's efficacy. Additionally, single-cell sequencing and spectrum analysis were employed to elucidate the working mechanisms and primary components of Lapagyl in addressing UVR-induced skin aging and injury. RESULTS: Lapagyl markedly reduced UVR-induced wrinkles, moisture loss, and elasticity decrease in SKH-1 mice. Single-cell sequencing demonstrated that Lapagyl corrected the imbalance in cell proportions caused by UVR, decreased UVR-induced ROS expression, and protected basal and spinous cells from skin damage. Additionally, Lapagyl effectively prevented the entry of inflammatory cells into the skin by reducing CCL8 expression and curtailed the UVR-induced formation of Foxp3+ regulatory T cells (Tregs) in the skin. Both pathological assessments and ex vivo skin model results demonstrated that Lapagyl effectively reduced UVR-induced damage to collagen and elastin. Spectrum analysis identified Salidroside as the primary compound remaining in the skin following Lapagyl treatment. Taken together, our study elucidated the skin protection mechanism of the herbal product Lapagyl against UVR damage at the cellular level, revealing its immunomodulatory effects, with salidroside identified as the primary active compound for skin. CONCLUSION: Our study provided a thorough evaluation of Lapagyl's protective effects on skin against UVR damage, delving into the mechanisms at the cellular level. We discovered that Lapagyl mitigates skin inflammation and immunosuppression by regulating Foxp3+ Tregs and the CCL pathway. These insights indicate that Lapagyl has potential as a novel therapeutic option for addressing skin photoaging.

Comparisons between wrinkles and photo-ageing detected and self-reported by the participant or identified by trained assessors reveal insights from Chinese individuals in the Singapore/Malaysia Cross-sectional Genetics Epidemiology Study (SMCGES) cohort.

BACKGROUND: Changes develop on the facial skin as a person ages. Other than chronological time, it has been discovered that gender, ethnicity, air pollution, smoking, nutrition, and sun exposure are notable risk factors that influence the development of skin ageing phenotypes such as wrinkles and photo-ageing. These risk factors can be quantified through epidemiological collection methods. We previously studied wrinkles and photo-ageing in detail using photo-numeric scales. The analysis was performed on the ethnic Chinese skin by three trained assessors. Recent studies have shown that it is possible to use self-reported data to identify skin-related changes including skin colour and skin cancer. In order to investigate the association between risk factors and skin ageing phenotypic outcomes in large-scale epidemiological studies, it would be useful to evaluate whether it is also possible for participants to self-report signs of ageing on their skin. AIM: We have previously identified several validated photo-numeric scales for wrinkling and photo-ageing to use on ethnic Chinese skin. Using these scales, our trained assessors grade wrinkling and photo-ageing with moderately high inter-assessor concordance and agreement. The main objective of this study involves letting participants grade self-reported wrinkling and photo-ageing using these same scales. We aim to compare the concordance and agreement between signs of skin ageing by the participant and signs of ageing identified by our assessors. METHOD: Three trained assessors studied facial photo-ageing on 1081 ethnic Chinese young adults from the Singapore/Malaysia Cross-sectional Genetics Epidemiology Study (SMCGES) cohort. Self-reported facial photo-ageing data by the same 1081 participants were also collated and the two sets of data are compared. RESULTS: Here, we found that self-reported signs of photo-ageing are concordant with photo-ageing detected by our assessors. This finding is consistent whether photo-ageing is evaluated through studying wrinkle variations (Spearman's rank correlation (ρ) value: 0.246-0.329) or through studying dyspigmentation patterns (Spearman's rank correlation (ρ) value 0.203-0.278). When studying individual wrinkles, both participants and assessors often detect the presence of the same wrinkle (Spearman's rank correlation (ρ) value 0.249-0.366). A weak-to-fair level of agreement between both participants and assessors (Cohen's kappa (κ) values: 0.041-0.233) persists and is statistically significant after accounting for agreements due to chance. Both the participant and the assessor are largely consistent in evaluating the extent of photo-ageing (area under curve (AUC) values 0.689-0.769) and in discerning between the presence or absence of a given facial wrinkle (area under curve (AUC) values 0.601-0.856). CONCLUSION: When we analyse the overall appearance of the face, our results show that signs of photo-ageing identified by the participant are concordant with signs of photo-ageing identified by our assessors. When we focused our analysis on specific areas of the face, we found that participants were more likely to identify and self-report the same wrinkles that our assessors have also detected. Here, we found that self-reported signs of skin ageing provide a satisfactory approximation to the signs of skin ageing identified by our assessors. The ability to use self-reported signs of skin ageing should also be evaluated on scales beyond the ones discussed in this study. Currently, there are not as many photo-numeric scales for quantifying dyspigmentation patterns as there are for quantifying wrinkle variations. As Chinese skin is known to become dyspigmented more easily with age, more photo-numeric scales need to be developed and properly validated.

Extracellular Vesicles from Ecklonia cava and Phlorotannin Promote Rejuvenation in Aged Skin.

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) elicit diverse biological effects, including promoting skin health. EVs isolated from Ecklonia cava (EV-EC) carry heat shock protein 70 (HSP70), which inhibits key regulators such as TNF-α, MAPKs, and NF-κB, consequently downregulating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Aging exacerbates oxidative stress, upregulating MAPK and NF-κB signaling and worsening extracellular matrix degradation in the skin. E. cava-derived phlorotannin (PT) mitigates MAPK and NF-κB signaling. We evaluated the impact of EV-EC and PT on skin rejuvenation using an in vitro keratinocyte senescence model and an in vivo aged-mouse model. Western blotting confirmed the presence of HSP70 in EV-EC. Treatment with EV-EC and PT in senescent keratinocytes increased HSP70 expression and decreased the expression of TNF-α, MAPK, NF-κB, activator protein-1 (AP-1), and MMPs. Oxidative stress was also reduced. Sequential treatment with PT and EV-EC (PT/EV-EC) yielded more significant results compared to individual treatments. The administration of PT/EV-EC to the back skin of aged mice mirrored the in vitro findings, resulting in increased collagen fiber accumulation and improved elasticity in the aged skin. Therefore, PT/EV-EC holds promise in promoting skin rejuvenation by increasing HSP70 expression, decreasing the expression of MMPs, and reducing oxidative stress in aged skin.

Clinical Studies Using Topical Melatonin.

Melatonin is ubiquitously present in all animals and plants, where it exerts a variety of physiological activities thanks to its antioxidant properties and its key role as the first messenger of extracellular signaling functions. Most of the clinical studies on melatonin refer to its widespread oral use as a dietary supplement to improve sleep. A far smaller number of articles describe the clinical applications of topical melatonin to treat or prevent skin disorders by exploiting its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. This review focuses on the clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin as a photoprotective, anti-aging, or hair growth-promoting agent. The methodologies and results of such studies are discussed to provide an overall picture of the state of the art in this intriguing field of research. The clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin before exposure to radiation (UV, sunlight, and high-energy beams) were all characterized by an appropriate design (randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled) and strongly support its clinical efficacy in preventing or reducing skin damage such as dermatitis, erythema, and sunburn. Most of the studies examined in this review do not provide a clear demonstration of the efficacy of topical melatonin as a skin anti-aging or as a hair growth-promoting agent owing to limitations in their design and/or to the use of melatonin combined with extra active ingredients, except for one trial that suggests a possible beneficial role of melatonin in treating some forms of alopecia in women. Further research efforts are required to reach definitive conclusions concerning the actual benefits of topical melatonin to counteract skin aging and hair loss.

Radiofrequency Treatment Attenuates Age-Related Changes in Dermal-Epidermal Junctions of Animal Skin.

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is essential for maintaining skin structural integrity and regulating cell survival and proliferation. Thus, DEJ rejuvenation is key for skin revitalization, particularly in age-related DEJ deterioration. Radiofrequency (RF) treatment, known for its ability to enhance collagen fiber production through thermal mechanisms and increase heat shock protein (HSP) expression, has emerged as a promising method for skin rejuvenation. Additionally, RF activates Piezo1, an ion channel implicated in macrophage polarization toward an M2 phenotype and enhanced TGF-ß production. This study investigated the impact of RF treatment on HSP47 and HSP90 expression, known stimulators of DEJ protein expression. Furthermore, using in vitro and aged animal skin models, we assessed whether RF-induced Piezo1 activation and the subsequent M2 polarization could counter age-related DEJ changes. The RF treatment of H2O2-induced senescent keratinocytes upregulated the expression of HSP47, HSP90, TGF-ß, and DEJ proteins, including collagen XVII. Similarly, the RF treatment of senescent macrophages increased Piezo1 and CD206 (M2 marker) expression. Conditioned media from RF-treated senescent macrophages enhanced the expression of TGF-ß and DEJ proteins, such as nidogen and collagen IV, in senescent fibroblasts. In aged animal skin, RF treatment increased the expression of HSP47, HSP90, Piezo1, markers associated with M2 polarization, IL-10, and TGF-ß. Additionally, RF treatment enhanced DEJ protein expression. Moreover, RF reduced lamina densa replication, disrupted lesions, promoted hemidesmosome formation, and increased epidermal thickness. Overall, RF treatment effectively enhanced DEJ protein expression and mitigated age-related DEJ structural changes by increasing HSP levels and activating Piezo1.

Photodynamic Skincare: A Prospective Single-Center Study.

BACKGROUND: Peer-reviewed, clinical studies measuring the efficacy and usability of skin care products enhance their integrity and may guide experts in the field in providing recommendations. A single-blind, prospective clinical study was designed to assess the subject satisfaction, clinical benefit, and safety of three photodynamic topical formulations referred to as MMSRepose (MMSRep), MMSRevive (MMSRev), and MMSBalance (MMSB).  Methods: Thirteen male and female patients (mean age 49 +/- 17.8 years) applied one of the three topical serums twice daily over a period of 12 weeks. Subjects returned for photography, and blinded investigator evaluation of rhytides (fine lines) and dyspigmentation were measured on a 6- and 4-point scale, respectively. Patient-perceived efficacy of multiple clinical outcomes was measured on a 5-point scale.  Results: 100% of subjects reported at least a 1-grade improvement in global aesthetic at the conclusion of the study. Investigator assessment revealed an overall 53.3% decrease in rhytides, correlating to a mean point reduction from 1.65 +/- 0.77 to 0.77 +/- 0.53 (P<0.001) from baseline to week 12. Investigator assessment of dyspigmentation revealed a 62.7% decrease, correlating to a mean point reduction of 1.85 +/- 0.68 from week 1 to 0.69 +/- 0.48 at week 12 (P<0.001). CONCLUSION: Photodynamic serums demonstrate clinical efficacy in skin rejuvenation and high user satisfaction. There were no serious adverse events. This study is limited by the inability to randomize to placebo due to the small sample size, as subject retention was heavily impacted by the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic. Future studies may be indicated to undergo comparison with a larger cohort.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(5):332-337. doi:10.36849/JDD.7167.