Models of the Three-Component Bilayer of Stratum Corneum: A Molecular Simulation Study.

The construction of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial to the problems of transdermal drug delivery. SC consists of the keratinocyte layers and the lipid matrix surrounding it. Among them, the lipid matrix is the barrier for many exogenous molecules, mainly composed of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL). In this work, we developed single-component (CERs, CER-NS, and CER-EOS) and six three-component models, and each model was simulated by using the GROMOS-54A7 force field. Short-period phase (SPP) and long-period phase (LPP) systems were established separately, and area per lipid (APL), thickness, order of carbon chain (SCD), and density distribution were analyzed. The transition of CER-NS and CER-EOS in LPP was observed. The results of hydrogen bonds in the lipid systems indicated that a strong hydrogen-bond network was formed between the skin-lipid bilayers. Umbrella sampling method simulations were performed to calculate the free energy change of ethanol moving into the skin-lipid bilayer. The results revealed that ethanol molecules pulled some water molecules into the membrane when they passed through SPP-1. Our findings provided some insights and models of the stratum corneum that could be used for the subsequent mechanism of macromolecule permeation through membranes in drugs, cosmetics, and so on.

Culture insert device with perfusable microchannels enhancesin vitroskin model development and barrier function assessment.

The ever-stricter regulations on animal experiments in the field of cosmetic testing have prompted a surge in skin-related research with a special focus on recapitulation of thein vivoskin structurein vitro. In vitrohuman skin models are seen as an important tool for skin research, which in recent years attracted a lot of attention and effort, with researchers moving from the simplest 2-layered models (dermis with epidermis) to models that incorporate other vital skin structures such as hypodermis, vascular structures, and skin appendages. In this study, we designed a microfluidic device with a reverse flange-shaped anchor that allows culturing of anin vitroskin model in a conventional 6-well plate and assessing its barrier function without transferring the skin model to another device or using additional contraptions. Perfusion of the skin model through vascular-like channels improved the morphogenesis of the epidermis compared with skin models cultured under static conditions. This also allowed us to assess the percutaneous penetration of the tested caffeine permeation and vascular absorption, which is one of the key metrics for systemic drug exposure evaluation.

Influence of cosmetic foundation cream on skin condition during treadmill exercise.

BACKGROUND: There is a growing trend of individuals wearing cosmetics while participating in physical activities. Nonetheless, there remains a need for further understanding regarding the effects of makeup on the facial epidermis during exercise, given the existing knowledge gaps. PURPOSE: This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a cosmetic foundation cream on skin conditions during physical activity. METHODS: Forty-three healthy college students, 20 males (26.3 ± 1.5 years) and 23 females (23.1 ± 1.0 years), were enrolled in this study. Foundation cream was applied to participants on half of the face in two different areas (MT: makeup T zone and MU: makeup U zone). The other half of the face served as internal control (T: non-makeup T zone and U: non-makeup U zones). Skin levels of moisture, elasticity, pore, sebum, and oil were measured using a skin analysis device (Aramhuvis, Gyeonggi, Republic of Korea) before and after a 20-min treadmill exercise. Paired t-test and independent t-test were performed for skin condition measurements at pre- and postexercise. RESULTS: The skin moisture levels in both the T and MT significantly increased after exercise (p < 0.05) (pre-T: 24.5 ± 1.3, post-T: 38.5 ± 3.5 and pre-MT: 18.7 ± 0.7, post-MT: 40.4 ± 4.8). Elasticity also significantly improved in both the T and MT (p < 0.05) (pre-T: 25.6 ± 1.3, post-T: 41.5 ± 3.5 and pre-MT: 20.0 ± 0.9, post-MT: 41.7 ± 3.7). The size of the pores in the T zone observed a significant increase after exercise (p < 0.05) (pre-T: 41.7 ± 2.1, post-T: 47.8 ± 2.4). The sebum levels in the T zone exhibited a reduction following physical activity, whereas there was a notable increase in sebum levels in the makeup zones (p < 0.05) (pre-MT: 2.4 ± 0.7, post-MT:4.2 ± 0.8 and pre MU 1.8 ± 0.34, post MU 4.9 ± 0.9). The oil level was increased in the non-makeup zones (pre-T: 6.1 ± 1.4, post-T: 11.8 ± 2.0 and pre-U: 7.3 ± 1.5, post-U: 11.9 ± 1.9; p < 0.05) and decreased in the makeup zones (pre-MT: 13.3 ± 1.9, post-MT: 7.4 ± 2.3 and pre-MU: 22.1 ± 2.4, post-MU: 3.2 ± 1.0; p < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: The findings suggest that using foundation cream during aerobic exercise can reduce skin oil, causing dryness. Additionally, makeup can clog pores and increase sebum production. Therefore, wearing makeup may not be recommended for people with dry skin conditions based on the results of the current study. This research offers important insights to the public, encouraging them to consider the possible consequences of using makeup while exercising.

Comparison between ammonium formate and ammonium fluoride in the analysis of stratum corneum lipids by reversed phase chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry.

Lipids are key constituents of the barrier function in the human stratum corneum (SC), which is the outermost layer of the epidermis and amenable to non-invasive sampling by tape stripping. The three major lipid classes in the SC, i.e., ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol, present equimolar concentration. Liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (LCMS) is elective in profiling lipids in the SC in both positive and negative ion modes. Nevertheless, the latter one allows for the simultaneous detection of the three major epidermal components of the SC. Determination of ceramides in the SC poses analytical challenges due to their wide range of structures and concentrations especially in the case of limited sample amounts. Ammonium formate is a commonly used modifier added to the mobile phase to assist ionization. However, it introduces uncertainty in the identification of ceramides when operating in negative ion mode, even with high resolution MS. We tested the advantages of using fluoride in the lipid profiling of SC and unambiguous identification of ceramides subclasses. The use of fluoride enhanced the ionization of ceramides, regardless the specific substructure, solved misidentification issues, and was successfully applied to the simultaneous detection of all three lipid classes in the human SC.

Lipidomics Reveals the Effects of Detergents on Skin Surface Lipids in Young Adults.

BACKGROUND: Detergent is a chemical product commonly used in people's daily life. Contact with detergent solutions can damage the human skin barrier and cause skin diseases. Skin surface lipids (SSLs) play a decisive role in skin barrier function. This study aimed to observe the changes of SSLs in young adults after exposure to detergent solutions to explore the underlying mechanism of skin barrier function damage. METHODS: A self-controlled study on youth adults was conducted in Zhengzhou, China, in November 2020. The study lasted for a total of 1 week, and skin barrier function was assessed by trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) values. The changes of SSLs before and after exposure to the detergent with subjects were measured using ultra-performance liquid chromatography quadrupole time of flight mass spectrometry. RESULTS: The skin barrier function of subjects' hands was impaired after exposure to detergent (TEWL value increased, p < 0.001). A total of 520 SSLs were detected, divided into 6 main categories. The average relative abundance of these 6 major lipids decreased after exposure. Sphingolipids (mainly ceramides), free fatty acids (mainly long-chain fatty acids), cholesterol lipids, and glycerophospholipids are the most severely damaged lipids. CONCLUSION: Detergent solutions can damage the skin barrier function and SSLs of young hands; interventions targeting SSLs to eliminate detergent damage to human skin may be of value.

Trajectory of stratum corneum lipid subclasses in the first year of life and associations with atopic dermatitis: A prospective cohort study.

BACKGROUND: Trajectories of stratum corneum (SC) lipid subclasses and their associations with infant atopic dermatitis (AD) are unclear. This study aimed to quantify the trajectories of 15 SC subclasses and carbon chain lengths and their associations with AD within 12 months. METHODS: In total, 213 newborns were enrolled at birth with nonlesional skin samples collected from the inner forearm at birth, 42 days, 3, 6, and 12 months, respectively. Lesional skin samples were collected from 120 AD patients at clinic with the disease onset within the first year of life. Mass spectrometry was applied to assess relative contents of 12 ceramide (CER), three free fatty acid (FFA) subclasses, and average carbon chain length (CCL). AD incident within 1 year old was diagnosed by dermatologists according to UK criteria. RESULTS: Sixty-four (30.0%) cases of ADs occurred in the cohort. All SC lipid subclasses and CCLs, but EOP varied significantly during the first year. AD infants showed lower NP but higher NS, NH, AP, hydroxy FFA, and CCL of FFAs compared with nonaffected infants. After normalization by age, the differences remained and were more pronounced in lesional skin of clinical AD infants compared with non-ADs. NS, NH, and CCL of FFAs in lesional skin of AD infants showed positive and significant correlations with the levels of transepidermal water loss at 3 month; some evidence supports a negative correlation for NP. CONCLUSIONS: We provide an overview of developmental trajectories of 15 CER and FFA subclasses across the first year of healthy infants and a link between the imbalance of some subclasses with the development of AD.

Characterisation of topographical, biomechanical and maturation properties of corneocytes with respect to anatomical location.

BACKGROUND: The Stratum Corneum (SC) is the first barrier of the skin. The properties of individual cells are crucial in understanding how the SC at different anatomical regions maintains a healthy mechanical barrier. The aim of the current study is to present a comprehensive description of the maturation and mechanical properties of superficial corneocytes at different anatomical sites in the nominal dry state. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Corneocytes were collected from five anatomical sites: forearm, cheek, neck, sacrum and medial heel of 10 healthy young participants. The surface topography was analysed using Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). The level of positive-involucrin cornified envelopes (CEs) and desmoglein-1 (Dsg1) were used as indirect measures of immature CEs and corneodesmosomes, respectively. In addition, AFM nanoindentation and stress-relaxation experiments were performed to characterise the mechanical properties. RESULTS: Volar forearm, neck and sacrum corneocytes presented similar topographies (ridges and valleys) and levels of Dsg1 (13-37%). In contrast, cheek cells exhibited circular nano-objects, while medial heel cells were characterized by villi-like structures. Additionally, medial heel samples also showed the greatest level of immature CEs (32-56%, p < 0.001) and Dsg1 (59-78%, p < 0.001). A large degree of inter-subject variability was found for the Young's moduli of the cells (0.19-2.03 GPa), which was correlated with the level of immature CEs at the cheek, neck and sacrum (p < 0.05). CONCLUSION: It is concluded that a comprehensive study of the mechanical and maturation properties of corneocytes may be used to understand the barrier functions of the SC at different anatomical sites.

A Comprehensive Comparison of Tissue Processing Methods for High-Quality MALDI Imaging of Lipids in Reconstructed Human Epidermis.

Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization (MALDI) mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has become an important tool for skin analysis, as it allows the simultaneous detection and localization of diverse molecular species within a sample. The use of in vivo and ex vivo human skin models is costly and presents ethical issues; therefore, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models, which mimic the upper part of native human skin, represent a suitable alternative to investigate adverse effects of chemicals applied to the skin. However, there are few publications investigating the feasibility of using MALDI MSI on RHE models. Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of sample preparation techniques, i.e., substrate, sample thickness, washing, and matrix recrystallization, on the quality of MALDI MSI for lipids analysis of the SkinEthic RHE model. Images were generated using an atmospheric pressure MALDI source coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer with a pixel size of 5 µm. Masses detected in a defined region of interest were analyzed and annotated using the LipostarMSI platform. The results indicated that the combination of (1) coated metallic substrates, such as APTES-coated stainless-steel plates, (2) tissue sections of 6 µm thickness, and (3) aqueous washing before HCCA matrix spraying (without recrystallization), resulted in images with a significant signal intensity as well as numerous m/z values. This refined methodology using AP-MALDI coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer should improve the current sample preparation workflow to evaluate changes in skin composition after application of dermatocosmetics.

Cortisol, cortisone and DHEAS in epidermis and scales of fish Aphanius fasciatus: HPLC-MS/MS measurement of stress indicators as proxies for natural and human-induced factors.

Fish health can be affected by a multitude of stressors. Acute and chronic stress assessment via specific hormones monitoring has become a trending research topic. Common investigated matrices are blood and plasma, but recently less invasive substrates have been identified. As chemical composition of skin mucus/epidermis has been demonstrated to link with acute stress, and of scales with chronic stress in fish, the aim of the study was firstly to improve the determination of three stress hormones, namely cortisol (COL), cortisone (CON), and dehydroepiandrosterone-3-sulfate (DHEAS), in skin mucus/epidermis and scales of Aphanius fasciatus. Secondly, an evaluation of the impact of different environments on hormones concentrations was carried out. A liquid chromatography coupled to tandem mass spectrometry method (HPLC-MS/MS) and a preanalytical procedure were validated to determine COL, CON and DHEAS. This methodology was applied to compare a pull of field-collected fish with a pull of fish housed in the laboratory for one year. Our results highlighted a significant presence of cortisol and cortisone in epidermis of the latter pull (averagely 0.10 and 0.14 ng mg-1, respectively), while in the first pull both hormones were much less concentrated (averagely 0.006 and 0.008 ng mg-1, respectively). Scales of both pulls showed presence of hormones, with a higher concentration for fish housed in the laboratory, although a relevant difference in concentration was found only for cortisone. DHEAS was always below the limit of detection.

Comparative analysis of intercellular lipid organization and composition between psoriatic and healthy stratum corneum.

The lipid composition and organization of the stratum corneum (SC) in patients with psoriasis and healthy subjects were compared using X-ray diffraction, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and ultraperformance liquid chromatography, combined with time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-TOFMS). In healthy SC (HSC), SC lipids formed two lamellar phases (long and short periodicity phases). Hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing were observed in the lateral lipid organization at 30 °C via X-ray diffraction. In HSC, the lamellar phases and the hydrocarbon-chain packing organizations changed with elevated temperatures and finally disappeared. In these behaviors, the high-temperature hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, which appeared above the orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, transformed to the liquid phase at about 90 °C in HSC. In psoriatic SC (PSC), hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing organization disappeared at about 65 °C with elevated temperatures. No high-temperature hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing organization were observed in PSC during heating process. Disorder of the hydrocarbon-chain packing of SC lipids was observed in PSC via FT-IR. In UPLC-TOFMS, free fatty acid (FFA) and ceramide (CER) compositions differed between patients with PSC and HSC. Specifically, the levels of ultra-long chain fatty acids containing CER and phytosphingosine-containing CER were decreased, while those of sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine-containing CER and unsaturated FFA were increased in PSC. Furthermore, FFA and CER carbon chain lengths decreased in patients with PSC. These results suggest that the alteration of SC lipid composition and the reduction of carbon chain lengths in PSC lowered the structural transformation temperature, thereby reducing barrier function.

Microphase transitions of Langmuir-Blodgett lipid-assembled monolayers with new types of ceramides, ultra-long-chain ceramide and 1-O-acylceramide.

HYPOTHESIS: Intercellular lipid lamellae, consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, are the primary pathways for substances in the stratum corneum (SC). The microphase transition of lipid-assembled monolayers (LAMs), mimicking an initial layer of the SC, would be affected by new types of ceramides: ceramide with ultra-long chain (CULC) and 1-O-acylceramide (CENP) with three chains in different direction. EXPERIMENTS: The LAMs were fabricated with varying the mixing ratio of CULC (or CENP) against base ceramide via Langmuir-Blodgett assembly. Surface pressure-area isotherms and elastic modulus-surface pressure plots were obtained to characterize π-dependent microphase transitions. The surface morphology of LAMs was observed by atomic force microscopy. FINDINGS: The CULCs favored lateral lipid packing, and the CENPs hindered the lateral lipid packing by lying alignment, which was due to their different molecular structures and conformations. The sporadic clusters and empty spaces in the LAMs with CULC were presumably due to the short-range interactions and self-entanglements of ultra-long alkyl chains following the freely jointed chain model, respectively, which was not noticeably observed in the neat LAM films and the LAM films with CENP. The addition of surfactants disrupted the lateral packing of lipids, thus weakening the LAM elasticity. These findings allowed us to understand the role of CULC and CENP in the lipid assemblies and microphase transition behaviors in an initial layer of SC.

Role of Omega-Hydroxy Ceramides in Epidermis: Biosynthesis, Barrier Integrity and Analyzing Method.

Attached to the outer surface of the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), omega-hydroxy ceramides (ω-OH-Cer) link to involucrin and function as lipid components of the stratum corneum (SC). The integrity of the skin barrier is highly dependent on the lipid components of SC, especially on ω-OH-Cer. Synthetic ω-OH-Cer supplementation has been utilized in clinical practice for epidermal barrier injury and related surgeries. However, the mechanism discussion and analyzing methods are not keeping pace with its clinical application. Though mass spectrometry (MS) is the primary choice for biomolecular analysis, method modifications for ω-OH-Cer identification are lacking in progress. Therefore, finding conclusions on ω-OH-Cer biological function, as well as on its identification, means it is vital to remind further researchers of how the following work should be done. This review summarizes the important role of ω-OH-Cer in epidermal barrier functions and the forming mechanism of ω-OH-Cer. Recent identification methods for ω-OH-Cer are also discussed, which could provide new inspirations for study on both ω-OH-Cer and skin care development.

Transepidermal water loss and stratum corneum hydration in forearm versus hand palm.

BACKGROUND: Skin measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration (SCH) reflect different aspects of skin physiology. Since epidermal water loss depends on epidermal-to-air water vapor gradients, a possible quantitative relationship between TEWL and SCH may exist. This investigation's purpose was to test the possible TEWL-SCH relationship. MATERIALS AND METHODS: SCH and TEWL were measured noninvasively on forearm and palmer thenar eminence (hand) in 40 young adults (20 males) along with total body fat percentage (FAT) via bioimpedance. RESULTS: A significant positive nonlinear correlation (p < 0.001) was detected between SCH and TEWL in hands of the male cohort that occurred when SCH exceeded a threshold level. This threshold level was not exceeded in male or female forearms and forearms did not display a SCH-TEWL correlation. There was a weak inverse dependence of TEWL on FAT on both forearm and hand (p < 0.05), but no SCH-FAT relationship was observed. TEWL values on the forearm and hand were moderately correlated with each other (p = 0.002) but SCH values were not. CONCLUSION: The findings clarify the relationship between forearm and palmer hydration and TEWL values, and their relationship to total body fat percentages in young healthy adults. The significant correlation between palmer stratum corneum hydration and palmer TEWL that was discovered in the male but not the female cohort suggests a threshold hydration level for which TEWL depends both on skin barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. This implies that conditions with increased SCH may in part account for elevated TEWL values.

Evaluation of a Novel Skin Emollient Cream on Skin Lipidome and Lipid Organization.

INTRODUCTION: The stratum corneum (SC) matrix is composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides (CERs), which play a key role in the skin barrier function. Changes in the composition and content of skin lipids will affect the function of the skin barrier. The effect of a glycerol/petrolatum-based emollient (G/P-emollient) cream on the lipid profiles of isolated ex vivo human SC and the SC of a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model was measured. METHODS: The spatial organization of the cream and the isolated SC intercellular matrix were studied using X-ray diffraction. The inter-bilayer distances in the multi-lamellar lipid structures and lattice type were analyzed using small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), respectively. Lipidomic analysis using shotgun lipidomics was performed on RHE models to quantify CER classes and chain lengths. This technology enables the analysis of thousands of lipids in a single biological sample. RESULTS: The crystallized components of the cream are lipids, which were mainly packed in orthorhombic lattices, as well as hexagonal lattices and were similar to the SC structure. The cream penetrated the SC but did not alter the WAXS profile. It increased the amount of higher carbon number CERs (>42 carbons) and decreased lower carbon number CERs (<42 carbons). All chain length of CERs and acyl-CER classes (CER EOS, EOH, EOP, EOdS) were increased as the total CER classes. A decrease of the CER C34 for hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated CERs was also observed. The cream altered the S and P CER forms (increased the NP/NS and AP/AS ratios), indicating it could reduce the relative feedback mechanism observed in inflammatory pathologies, for example, atopic dermatitis. The cream increased CER NP, which is decreased in dry skin. CONCLUSION: G/P-emollient cream may be beneficial for skin pathologies by modifying SC lipids, balancing CER levels and ratios, and improving the barrier function. Importantly, the cream structure mimics that of the SC and penetrated the lower SC layers without compromising its lamellar structure.

Probing the human epidermis by combining ToF-SIMS and multivariate analysis.

The mammalian organism is continuously exposed to various biological and chemical threats from its surroundings. In order to provide protection against these threats, mammals have developed a specialized defense system at the interface with their environment. This system, known as the epidermis, is mainly composed of stratified keratinocytes organized in a complex self-renewing structure providing a mechanical and chemical barrier at the skin surface. However, numerous skin-related pathologies can interfere with the proper formation and function of the epidermal barrier. The pathogenesis of these alterations is often very complex. Understanding the changes induced in epidermal tissues by these pathologies at a molecular level is key for their treatment and prevention. In this context, this work aims at developing a thorough and reproducible characterization methodology of the human epidermis by applying ToF-SIMS to the study of an in vitro epidermal model known as reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). Indeed, although the potential of ToF-SIMS for the characterization of the mammalian skin has already been demonstrated, very few studies focus their efforts on the human epidermis itself. Here, we performed static ToF-SIMS characterizations of RHE cryosections, combining both high mass and high lateral resolution acquisitions. In addition, principal components analysis was used as a multivariate analysis tool. This contributed to the decorrelation of the complex datasets obtained from these biological systems and allowed capturing of their most statistically representative spectral features. Remarkably, this tool proved to be successful in extracting meaningful biological information from the datasets by yielding principal components distinguishing the cornified layers from the metabolically active epidermal cells. Finally, on the basis of multiple ToF-SIMS acquisitions, we showed that this methodology allows for the convenient production of experimental replicates, a key feature often difficult to achieve in ex vivo approaches.

Investigation of ß-caryophyllene as terpene penetration enhancer: Role of stratum corneum retention.

Terpenes are usually used as penetration enhancers (PE) for transdermal drug delivery (TDD) of various molecules. However, TDD of hydrophilic macromolecules is becoming an urgent challenge due to their potent activities. The aim of this study was to investigate the potential application of ß-caryophyllene (ß-CP), a sequiterpene, as PE for TDD of hydrophilic macromolecules for the first time. Commonly used PEs, namely azone and 1,8-cineole (1,8-CN), were applied as controls. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) analysis revealed that the reduction of skin barrier function caused by ß-CP was reversible. Transdermal experiments showed that when skin was treated with ß-CP or azone, there was a significant permeation-enhancing effect on fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC) and FITC-dextran with different molecular weight (MW) of 4k or 10k. CLSM analysis confirmed that ß-CP and azone can facilitate the penetration of FD-4k through epidermis and dermis. However, the cytotoxicity of azone against epidermal keratinocytes was significantly higher than ß-CP and 1,8-CN. Additionally, application of ß-CP and 1,8-CN didn't increase erythema index (EI) but the EI values of azone group increased significantly and irreversibly, indicating the high biocompatibility of the natural terpenes. ß-CP had better permeation-enhancing effect and higher stratum corneum (SC) retention than 1,8-CN due to its increased carbon chain length and lipophilicity, as further demonstrated by molecular dynamics (MD) simulation studies. Skin electrical resistance (SER) and attenuated total reflection fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) studies revealed a significant interfering effect of ß-CP on SC lipids. Taken together, ß-CP exhibited significant penetration enhancement of hydrophilic macromolecules due to its SC retention and SC lipid fluidization ability.

Distribution of Domains Formed by Lateral Packing of Intercellular Lipid in the Stratum Corneum.

Intercellular lipids fill the interstices of corneocytes and serve a barrier function. The amount of transdermal water evaporation varies depending on the packing structure of intercellular lipids, as this structure is important for maintaining barrier efficacy. This packing structure consists of a mixture of crystals (orthorhombic and hexagonal) and liquid crystals (fluid phase), and the proportion of these phases is thought to affect barrier function. However, there have been no methods to visualize the actual distribution of the domains formed by packing structure in intercellular lipids. In this study, the planar distribution of intercellular lipid structures was determined using focal plane array (FPA)-based Fourier transform (FT) IR imaging analysis of stratum corneum cell units obtained by grid stripping. The lipid composition of ceramides was revealed by electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (ESI-MS/MS)-based shotgun lipidomics. The distribution of domains formed by packing structures and the lipid composition of ceramides was compared in skin with high- or low-transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The orthorhombic proportion was lower in high-TEWL skin than in low-TEWL skin. ESI-MS/MS-based shotgun lipidomics analysis showed that the alpha-hydroxyceramide content in the low- and high-TEWL groups differed regarding the distribution of fatty acid chain lengths. The evaluation of stratum corneum cell units using FPA-based FTIR imaging is an innovative technology that can visualize the distribution of domains formed by intercellular lipid-packing structures. Increased proportions of alpha-hydroxyceramide subclasses such as alpha-hydroxy-sphingosine ceramide and alpha-hydroxy-phytosphingosine ceramide were associated with a reduced proportion of the orthorhombic packing structure domain.

Solubility of Foreign Molecules in Stratum Corneum Brick and Mortar Structure.

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC). One key aspect in predicting dermal drug delivery and in safety assessment of skin exposure to chemicals is the need to determine the amount of chemical that is taken up into the SC. We here present a strategy that allows for direct measures of the amount of various solid chemicals that can be dissolved in the SC in any environmental relative humidity (RH). A main advantage of the presented method is that it distinguishes between molecules that are dissolved within the SC and molecules that are not dissolved but might be present at, for example, the skin surface. In addition, the method allows for studies of uptake of hydrophobic chemicals without the need to use organic solvents. The strategy relies on the differences in the molecular properties of the added molecules in the dissolved and the excess states, employing detection methods that act as a dynamic filter to spot only one of the fractions, either the dissolved molecules or the excess solid molecules. By measuring the solubility in SC and delipidized SC at the same RHs, the same method can be used to estimate the distribution of the added chemical between the extracellular lipids and corneocytes at different hydration conditions. The solubility in porcine SC is shown to vary with hydration, which has implications for the molecular uptake and transport across the skin. The findings highlight the importance of assessing the chemical uptake at hydration conditions relevant to the specific applications. The methodology presented in this study can also be generalized to study the solubility and partitioning of chemicals in other heterogeneous materials with complex composition and structure.

Effect of the CER[NP]:CER[AP] a ratio on the structure of a stratum corneum model lipid matrix - a molecular dynamics study.

In some dermal diseases with evident skin dehydration and desquamation, the natural ratio of CER[NP]:CER[AP] is altered in the extracellular matrix of the stratum corneum by increasing the concentration of CER[AP]. The extracellular matrix of the stratum corneum is composed of several stacked lipid bilayers. Molecular dynamics simulations were used to investigate the molecular nanostructure of CER[NP], CER[AP], cholesterol and lignoceric acid models of the extracellular matrix of the stratum corneum with a nativelike CER[NP]:CER[AP] 2:1 ratio and a CER[NP]:CER[AP] ratio of 1:2. Despite the very minor chemical difference between CER[NP] and CER[AP], which is only a single OH group, it was possible to observe differences between the structural influence of the two ceramides. In the models with 1:2 ratio, the higher CER[AP] content leads to a larger inclination of the acyl chains and a smaller overlap in the lamellar midplane, with a small increase of the repeat distance compared to the model with higher CER[NP] concentration. Because CER[AP] forms more H-bonds than CER[NP], the total number of hydrogen bonds in the headgroup region is larger in the models with higher CER[AP] concentration, reducing the mobility of the lipids towards the centre of the bilayer and resulting in less overlap and increased tilt angles.

Non-invasive monitoring of interstitial fluid lactate through an epidermal iontophoretic device.

The development of a non-invasive sensing technology that allows collection of interstitial fluid (ISF) lactate and its subsequent analysis without exertion requirement, could enable lactate monitoring from rested individuals. Here, we describe a wearable, soft epidermal adhesive patch that integrates a reverse iontophoretic (RI) system, and an amperometric lactate biosensor placed on the anodic electrode with a porous hydrogel reservoir, for simultaneous ISF lactate extraction and quantification via electrochemical sensing, respectively. The iontophoretic system includes agarose hydrogels for preventing skin electrocution, while a porous polyvinyl alcohol-based hydrogel facilitates the effective transport of lactate from skin to the biosensor. The flexible skin-worn device tested on healthy individuals at rest showed rapid lactate collection from the ISF after 10 min of reverse iontophoresis with no evidence of discomfort or irritation to the skin. Detailed characterization of the enzymatic biosensor before and during on-body trials along with relevant control experiments confirmed the efficient extraction and selective detection of ISF lactate. Such an epidermal technology represents the first demonstration of an all-in-one platform that integrates non-invasive collection and subsequent analysis of lactate from iontophoretically extracted ISF toward point-of-care operation.