Dissolvable microneedles in the skin: Determination the impact of barrier disruption and dry skin on dissolution.

Dissolvable microneedles (DMNs), fabricated from biocompatible materials that dissolve in both water and skin have gained popularity in dermatology. However, limited research exists on their application in compromised skin conditions. This study compares the hyaluronic acid-based DMNs penetration, formation of microchannels, dissolution, and diffusion kinetics in intact, barrier-disrupted (tape stripped), and dry (acetone-treated) porcine ear skin ex vivo. After DMNs application, comprehensive investigations including dermoscopy, stereomicroscope, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), optical coherence tomography (OCT), reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (RCLSM), confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM), two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPT-FLIM), histology, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were conducted. The 400 µm long DMNs successfully penetrated the skin to depths of ≈200 µm for dry skin and ≈200-290 µm for barrier-disrupted skin. Although DMNs fully inserted into all skin conditions, their dissolution rates were high in barrier-disrupted and low in dry skin, as observed through stereomicroscopy and TPT-FLIM. The dissolved polymer exhibited a more significant expansion in barrier-disrupted skin compared to intact skin, with the smallest increase observed in dry skin. Elevated TEWL and reduced skin hydration levels were evident in barrier-disrupted and dry skins compared to intact skin. OCT and RCLSM revealed noticeable skin indentation and pronounced microchannel areas, particularly in barrier-disrupted and dry skin. Additional confirmation of DMN effects on the skin and substance dissolution was obtained through histology, SEM, and CRM techniques. This study highlights the impact of skin condition on DMN effectiveness, emphasizing the importance of considering dissolvability and dissolution rates of needle materials, primarily composed of hyaluronic acid, for optimizing DMN-based drug delivery.

Lipid-based eye drop formulations for the management of evaporative dry eyes.

Dry eye disease is a progressive prevalent ocular surface disorder that arises from various factors and is characterized by insufficient quality and/or quantity of tears. The underlying pathophysiology is intricate and can progress to chronic, difficult-to-treat conditions. Multiple strategies and therapeutic approaches are utilized in its management that target one or more etiopathological components of dry eyes, which may include aqueous tear deficiency or evaporative dry eyes. The primary focus of this paper is on treatment alternatives that utilize lipids for the treatment of evaporative dry eyes. This may arise from either abnormal lipid production or inadequate lipid spreading caused by meibomian gland dysfunction. The hypothesis behind the development of these lipid-containing eye drops is that if they can imitate the lipid layer, they may be able to help in the management of the signs and symptoms of evaporative dry eyes. The lipids used in commercial formulations for dry eyes are mineral oil, castor oil, phospholipids, omega-3 fatty acid, and medium-chain triglycerides. The literature suggests the potential of lipid-containing eye drops to alleviate some of the signs and symptoms and enhance the quality of life for individuals suffering from evaporative dry eyes.

Introducing the model of repeated exposure of skin to antiseptics: Randomised pilot trial.

INTRODUCTION: Intensified hand hygiene measures were recommended for preventing the spread of SARS-CoV-2. However, these measures can lead to skin damage and the development of hand eczema, particularly among health professionals. OBJECTIVES: This pilot study aimed to evaluate the effects of repeated antiseptic use on healthy skin under controlled conditions and to assess the emollient use. METHODS: Twelve healthy volunteers (nine females, age = 22.3 ± 2.8 years (mean ± SD), Fitzpatrick phototypes II and III) with no skin diseases were recruited. Antiseptic was applied daily for 3 weeks on the volar sides of forearms. Emollient cream was also applied daily. Skin assessments were performed using non-invasive methods (transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin hydration, erythema and melanin content). RESULTS: Prolonged antiseptic use increased TEWL, decreased hydration and elevated erythema and melanin levels. Emollient cream significantly reduced TEWL and improved hydration on antiseptic-treated sites, and also enhanced hydration on intact skin. CONCLUSIONS: Prolonged use of antiseptics can have adverse effects on the skin, including barrier disruption and inflammation. Emollient showed promise in improving skin hydration and reducing the damage caused by antiseptics. Further research with a larger sample is needed to confirm these findings and assess emollient efficacy during frequent antiseptic use.

Efficacy and safety of a panthenol-enriched mask for individuals with distinct impaired skin barrier subtypes.

BACKGROUND: The protection for different skin types with impaired skin barrier in the market is insufficient. AIM: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a panthenol-enriched mask (La Roche-Posay Mask Pro) in addressing various skin barrier impairment subgroups, including dry sensitive, oily sensitive, and oily acne skin. METHODS: A total of 177 participants were enrolled in the study and divided into three subgroups based on their skin type. Participants used the mask following the specified protocol, with measurements taken for skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum content, and skin redness-factors that are directly influenced by skin barrier function. Assessments were conducted at baseline and after 1 day (tested 15 min post-application), 7 days, and 14 days of application using Sebumeter, Tewameter, Corneometer, Mexameter, and VISIA. RESULTS: Results showed significant improvements in skin parameters across all subgroups. In the dry sensitive skin subgroup, the mask increased skin hydration, sebum content, and reduced redness. For the oily sensitive skin subgroup, the mask regulated sebum production and improved skin hydration. In the oily acne skin subgroup, the mask reduced sebum content, redness, TEWL, and post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation. Tolerance was excellent for all skin types, with no adverse reactions observed. CONCLUSIONS: This study highlights the efficacy and safety of the panthenol-enriched LRP Mask Pro for individuals with distinct skin barrier impairment subgroups. The mask's versatile formulation and proven efficacy make it a valuable skincare product for addressing various skin concerns and achieving healthier, more balanced skin.

Double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical investigation of peptide OS-01 for skin rejuvenation.

INTRODUCTION: Senescent cells contribute to age-related tissue deterioration, including the skin, which plays important roles in overall health and social interactions. This study aimed to assess the effects of the senotherapeutic peptide, OS-01 (a.k.a. Pep 14), on skin. METHODS: A 12-week split-face, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled study involving 22 participants was conducted. The OS-01-containing formulation was applied to one side of the face, while the other side received an identical control formulation lacking the peptide. Skin characteristics were assessed using instrumental measurements, expert clinical grading, and subjective questionnaires. RESULTS: Results showed that the OS-01 formulation significantly improved one aspect of skin barrier function, as evidenced by reduced trans-epidermal water loss compared to both baseline and vehicle control. Expert grading and Antera 3D image analysis revealed a reduction in wrinkle appearance and indentation in the periorbital area, and improved skin texture and radiance on both sides of the face, with the OS-01-containing formulation demonstrating superior results. Participants also perceived improvements in skin hydration, smoothness, radiance, and overall appearance. CONCLUSION: The findings suggest that the OS-01 formulation promotes skin health by strengthening the skin barrier, protecting against dehydration, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, and improving skin texture and radiance. These effects are likely attributed to the senotherapeutic properties of OS-01 in reducing cellular senescence and its associated detrimental effects.

Efficacy of a moisturizing cream and facial mask for alleviating skin problems associated with medical mask use: A half-face, randomized controlled study.

BACKGROUND: Prolonged use of medical masks has increased skin-related issues. AIM: To evaluate the efficacy of a facial cream and facial mask in mitigating medical mask related skin symptoms. METHODS: Healthy women were randomly assigned to apply a facial cream (n = 32) or a facial mask plus a facial cream (n = 32) on half-faces after wearing medical masks for 4 h (Tb). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), dryness score, and redness area were assessed at Tb and 10 min after using the cream (T1) in the facial cream group, and at Tb, 1 h after using the facial mask (T2), and 10 min after using the cream (T3) in the combined use group. RESULTS: In the facial cream group, the treated half-face showed significantly better improvements from Tb to T1 in TEWL (-2.95 ± 0.38 vs. -0.68 ± 0.35 g/h·cm2, p < 0.001) and skin dryness score (-1.00 ± 0.12 vs. 0.00 ± 0.00, p < 0.001). In the combined use group, the treated half-face showed significantly better improvements from Tb to T2 and T3 in TEWL (T2, -3.46 ± 0.33 vs. -0.09 ± 0.13 g/h·cm2; T3, -4.67 ± 0.31 vs. -0.28 ± 0.22 g/h·cm2) and skin dryness score (T2, -0.63 ± 0.13 vs. 0.03 ± 0.03; T3, -0.94 ± 0.17 vs. 0.19 ± 0.07) (all p < 0.001) then the untreated half-face. The combined use group had significantly lower TEWL at T3 than T2 (p < 0.05). The reduction in redness area was similar between the treated and untreated half-faces in both groups. CONCLUSIONS: The test facial cream and mask significantly improved skin barrier function and alleviated dryness symptoms associated with medical mask use, with the combined use offering superior benefits.

Oral Intake of Enzymatically Decomposed AP Collagen Peptides Improves Skin Moisture and Ceramide and Natural Moisturizing Factor Contents in the Stratum Corneum.

The stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis and plays an important role in maintaining skin moisture and protecting the skin from the external environment. Ceramide and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are the major SC components that maintain skin moisture. In this study, we investigated whether the oral intake of enzymatically decomposed AP collagen peptides (APCPs) can improve skin moisture and barrier function by assessing changes in the ceramide and NMF contents in the SC after APCP ingestion with the aim to develop a skin functional food. Fifty participants orally ingested APCP (1000 mg) or placebo for 12 weeks, and then, skin hydration and skin texture were evaluated. SC samples were collected to analyze skin scaling, ceramide, and NMF contents. Participants in the APCP group exhibited improved skin moisture content by 7.33% (p = 0.031) and roughness by -4.09% (p = 0.036) when compared with those in the placebo group. NMF content; the amounts of amino acids (AA), including glycine and proline; and AA derivatives were significantly increased in the APCP group (31.98 µg/mg protein) compared to those in the placebo group (-16.01 µg/mg protein) (p = 0.006). The amounts of total ceramides and ceramide subclasses were significantly higher in the APCP group than in the placebo group (p = 0.014). In conclusion, our results demonstrate that APCP intake improves skin moisture and increase the ceramide and NMF contents in the SC, thereby enhancing the skin barrier function.

Echinochrome A Treatment Alleviates Atopic Dermatitis-like Skin Lesions in NC/Nga Mice via IL-4 and IL-13 Suppression.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease in which skin barrier dysfunction leads to dryness, pruritus, and erythematous lesions. AD is triggered by immune imbalance and oxidative stress. Echinochrome A (Ech A), a natural pigment isolated from sea urchins, exerts antioxidant and beneficial effects in various inflammatory disease models. In the present study, we tested whether Ech A treatment alleviated AD-like skin lesions. We examined the anti-inflammatory effect of Ech A on 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB)-induced AD-like lesions in an NC/Nga mouse model. AD-like skin symptoms were induced by treatment with 1% DNCB for 1 week and 0.4% DNCB for 5 weeks in NC/Nga mice. The results showed that Ech A alleviated AD clinical symptoms, such as edema, erythema, and dryness. Treatment with Ech A induced the recovery of epidermis skin lesions as observed histologically. Tewameter® and Corneometer® measurements indicated that Ech A treatment reduced transepidermal water loss and improved stratum corneum hydration, respectively. Ech A treatment also inhibited inflammatory-response-induced mast cell infiltration in AD-like skin lesions and suppressed the expression of proinflammatory cytokines, such as interferon-γ, interleukin-4, and interleukin-13. Collectively, these results suggest that Ech A may be beneficial for treating AD owing to its anti-inflammatory effects.

Proteoglycan Combined with Hyaluronic Acid and Hydrolyzed Collagen Restores the Skin Barrier in Mild Atopic Dermatitis and Dry, Eczema-Prone Skin: A Pilot Study.

Dry and eczema-prone skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis and xerotic eczema primarily indicate an impaired skin barrier function, which leads to chronic pruritus. Here, we investigated the effects of a novel emollient containing H.ECMTM liposome, which contains a soluble proteoglycan in combination with hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid. A prospective, single-arm study was conducted on 25 participants with mild atopic dermatitis or dry skin to assess the hydration and anti-inflammatory effect of the novel emollient applied daily over four weeks. All efficacy parameters, including itching severity, transepidermal water loss, and skin hydration, improved significantly after four weeks. The in vitro and ex vivo studies confirmed the restoration of the skin's barrier function. The study revealed the clinical and laboratory efficacy of H.ECMTM liposome in reducing itching and improving the skin's barrier integrity. Thus, the use of H.ECMTM liposome can be considered a therapeutic option for dry and eczema-prone skin.

Echinochrome A Protects against Ultraviolet B-induced Photoaging by Lowering Collagen Degradation and Inflammatory Cell Infiltration in Hairless Mice.

Echinochrome A (Ech A, 7-ethyl-2,3,5,6,8-pentahydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) has been known to exhibit anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. However, no study has been carried out on the efficacy of Ech A against skin photoaging; this process is largely mediated by oxidative stress. Six-week-old male SKH-1 hairless mice (n = 36) were divided into five groups. Except for a group that were not treated (n = 4), all mice underwent ultraviolet-B (UVB) exposure for 8 weeks while applying phosphate-buffered saline or Ech A through intraperitoneal injection. UVB impaired skin barrier function, showing increased transepidermal water loss and decreased stratum corneum hydration. UVB induced dermal collagen degeneration and mast cell infiltration. Ech A injection was found to significantly lower transepidermal water loss while attenuating tissue inflammatory changes and collagen degeneration compared to the control. Furthermore, Ech A was found to decrease the relative expression of matrix metalloproteinase, tryptase, and chymase. Taken together, these results suggest that Ech A protects against UVB-induced photoaging in both functional and histologic aspects, causing a lowering of collagen degradation and inflammatory cell infiltration.

Silicone based water-in-oil emulsion fortified with anthocyanin: In-vitro, in-vivo study.

Skin care formulations with antioxidants are being widely explored for their benefits to human skin. The purpose of this study was to formulate a stable w/o emulsion containing anthocyanin derived from Malus dosmestica fruit extract and to further explore its beneficial effects on normal human skin. Anthocyanin was extracted using various solvents from the peel of Malus dosmestica fruit. w/o creams containing anthocyanin has been prepared and systematically characterized for various physiochemical properties in terms of stability at varying conditions of storage. An efficacy study has been carried out on 12 male healthy Asian subjects to determine effects of anthocyanin on skin melanin, erythema, skin moisture, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and on skin sebum. Solvent system containing methanol/acetone/water (3.5: 3.5: 3 v/v/v) including 1% formic acid established a best recovery of anthocyanin from fruit peel. W/O emulsions presented promising stability profile when kept at different storage conditions over 90 days period. All skin parameters studied, anthocyanin has been found more efficacious (p<0.05) for its effects on skin melanin and erythema content of skin. It has been shown that a topical application of anthocyanin derived from Malus domestica has substantial potential for human skin system and needs some patient oriented studies could warrant its potential for damaged skin.

Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation: Investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin.

OBJECTIVE: Many endogenous or exogenous factors, isolated or combined, can trigger dry skin disorder, leading to a water/lipids-depleted stratum corneum concomitant with uncomfortable rough and scaly skin surface. In a defensive reaction, the alteration of the skin barrier stimulates the production of cytokines to initiate homeostasis restoration but this can also induce an inflammatory response that further weakens the barrier. The two phenomena intertwining one another lead to the creation of a vicious circle, here called Inflamm'dryness, that maintains dry skin state. It is thus very important to investigate biological mechanisms involved in Inflamm'dryness to better manage dry skin. METHODS: A 3D model mimicking dry skin has been developed. Adjustment of tape stripping level allowed to reproduce skin barrier alterations and resulting inflammation involved in dry skin. The effect of Helichrysum stoechas extract on this downward spiral was then investigated to validate the concept. RESULTS: Tape-stripping permitted to successively remove the cell layers of the stratum corneum: the barrier function was altered and skin was inflamed creating a vicious circle, mimicking very dry skin prone to Inflamm'dryness. Helichrysum stoechas extract was not only able to resolve inflammation but also to reverse concurrently adverse tape-stripping effects and imparted significant structural and functional recovery of the barrier (e.g. on NMF and ceramides levels, TEWL, tissue organization). CONCLUSION: This 3D model reproduces Inflamm'dryness vicious circle present in dry skin and highlights the importance of breaking this process to improve dry skin conditions. Helichrysum stoechas extract is a promising active ingredient for the management of dry skin.

OBJECTIF: De nombreux facteurs endogènes ou exogènes, isoles ou combines, peuvent être à l'origine de sècheresse cutanée, conduisant à une peau en manque d'eau et de lipides : la peau tiraille, présente parfois un l'aspect rugueux (voire la présence de squames) et des sensations d'inconfort. Cette altération de la barrière cutanée induit la production de cytokines permettant la restauration de l'homéostasie de la peau mais induisant également une réponse inflammatoire fragilisant davantage la barrière cutanée. Ces deux phénomènes conduisent à la création d'un cercle vicieux, l'Inflamm'dryness, qui entretient l'état de sécheresse de la peau. Il semble donc important d'étudier les mécanismes biologiques impliqués dans le phénomène d'Inflamm'dryness afin de mieux prendre soin des peaux sèches. MÉTHODES: Un modèle 3D mimant une peau sèche a été développé. Un ajustement du nombre de tape-strippings a été nécessaire afin de reproduire les défauts de barrière ainsi que de l'inflammation caractéristiques des peaux sèches. L'effet d'un extrait d'Helichrysum stoechas sur cette spirale négative a ensuite été étudié pour valider le concept. RÉSULTATS: L'étape de tape-stripping a permis de retirer successivement les couches superficielles du stratum corneum: la fonction barrière est altérée et la peau est enflammée créant un cercle vicieux, mimant une peau très sèche sujette à l'Inflamm'dryness. L'extrait d'Helichrysum stoechas est non seulement capable de résoudre l'inflammation, mais également de restaurer la fonction barrière de la peau (quantités de NMF et de céramides, la perte insensible en eau, organisation des tissus…). CONCLUSION: Ce modèle 3D reproduit le cercle vicieux de l'Inflamm'dryness caractéristique des peaux sèches et met en évidence l'importance de rompre ce processus afin de remédier à la sécheresse cutanée. L'extrait d'Helichrysum stoechas développé est un actif prometteur pour le soin des peaux sèches.

Partially Hydrolysed Whey-Based Infant Formula Improves Skin Barrier Function.

Specific partially hydrolysed whey-based infant formulas (pHF-W) have been shown to decrease the risk of atopic dermatitis (AD) in infants. Historically, AD has been associated primarily with milk allergy; however, defective skin barrier function can be a primary cause of AD. We aimed to ascertain whether oral supplementation with pHF-W can improve skin barrier function. The effect of pHF-W was assessed on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and antibody productions in mice epicutaneously exposed to Aspergillus fumigatus. Human primary keratinocytes were stimulated in vitro, and the expression of genes related to skin barrier function was measured. Supplementation with pHF-W in neonatal mice led to a significant decrease in TEWL and total IgE, but not in allergen-specific antibody levels. The whey hydrolysate was sufficient to decrease both TEWL and total IgE. Aquaporin-3 gene expression, linked with skin hydration, was modulated in the skin of mice and human primary keratinocytes following protein hydrolysate exposure. Skin barrier improvement may be an additional mechanism by which pHF-W may potentially reduce the risk of AD development in infants. Further human studies are warranted to confirm the clinical efficacy of these observations.

Dietary Ceramide Prepared from Soy Sauce Lees Improves Skin Barrier Function in Hairless Mice.

Dietary sphingolipids such as glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin are known to improve the skin barrier function of damaged skin. In this study, we focused on free-ceramide prepared from soy sauce lees, which is a byproduct of soy sauce production. The effects of dietary soy sauce lees ceramide on the skin of normal mice were evaluated and compared with those of dietary maize glucosylceramide. We found that transepidermal water loss value was significantly suppressed by dietary supplementation with soy sauce lees ceramide as effectively as or more effectively than maize glucosylceramide. Although the content of total and each subclass of ceramide in the epidermis was not significantly altered by dietary sphingolipids, that of 12 types of ceramide molecules, which were not present in dietary sources, was significantly increased upon ingestion of maize glucosylceramide and showed a tendency to increase with soy sauce lees ceramide intake. In addition, the mRNA expression of ceramide synthase 4 and involucrin in the skin was downregulated by sphingolipids. This study, for the first time, demonstrated that dietary soy sauce lees ceramide enhances skin barrier function in normal hairless mice, although further studies are needed to clarify the molecular mechanism.

Protective effect of taurine on UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice.

Taurine, a sulfur-containing amino acid derivative, exists at a high concentration in the skin and is considered to play an important role in maintaining moisture homeostasis. This study investigated the effects of oral taurine supplementation on epidermal moisture content and wrinkle formation, as well as skin taurine content, using ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated hairless mice. Wrinkles were induced by exposing hairless mice to UVB radiation (70-100 mJ/cm2). Taurine was dissolved in drinking water at a concentration of 0.3 or 3% (w/v) and given to the mice ad libitum for 2-10 weeks. Taurine was then extracted from the dorsal skin, and the skin taurine content was determined using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The wrinkles were evaluated using a wrinkle score and the quantitative wrinkle area ratio. The exposure of the mice to UVB radiation for 4 weeks resulted in a decreased moisture content and increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the skin, while taurine supplementation suppressed these changes. Oral supplementation with taurine for 8 weeks ameliorated the development of UVB-induced wrinkle formation. Furthermore, oral taurine supplementation for 4 weeks decreased pre-stablished wrinkles in a dose-dependent manner. Although the UVB radiation reduced the epidermal taurine content, oral taurine supplementation partly restored the taurine content in the epidermis. The present study showed that oral taurine supplementation is able to suppress UVB-induced wrinkle formation, which may be associated with the regulation of moisture content in the epidermis. The beneficial effects of taurine on skin aging may be attributed to its osmoregulatory role.

Vehicle Effects on the Rosacea Skin Barrier.

BACKGROUND: Inflammatory papulopustular rosacea produces sensitive facial skin. Thus, medications designed for rosacea require careful vehicle development to insure optimal drug delivery in an environment suitable for barrier repair. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this phase 1 study was to elucidate the barrier effects of an investigational topical minocycline anhydrous gel 3% in subjects with inflammatory rosacea. METHODS: 31 male or female subjects with all complexion types and moderate facial rosacea, defined as 15+ inflammatory facial lesions, were enrolled in this single-site study to evaluate the effects of an investigational topical 3% minocycline anhydrous gel vehicle on skin barrier function; the new topical minocycline gel is an investigational product under development and has completed a phase 2b study in rosacea patients. Following a 30-minute acclimation period, subjects underwent a one-minute transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement on the left cheek and triplicate pin probe corneometry measurements from the right cheek. Subjects used the investigational topical 3% minocycline anhydrous gel every evening and returned to the research center at day 1, week 2, and week 4. RESULTS: 30/31 subjects completed the research study. The study medication produced a 23% (P=0.003) increase in skin hydration at day 1 and maintained the hydration increase with a 22% (P=0.003) increase at week 2 and a 20% increase (P=0.001) at week 4. Simultaneously, skin barrier function also improved with an 11% reduction in TEWL at day 1 followed by an 18% reduction in TEWL at week 2 (P=0.001) and a 28% decrease in TEWL at week 4 (P<0.001). This improvement in skin barrier was due to a combination of skin healing and the moisturizing properties of the investigational topical 3% minocycline anhydrous gel medication evaluated in this study. CONCLUSION: The investigational topical 3% minocycline anhydrous gel decreases TEWL, indicating barrier repair, while increasing corneometry measurements, indicating improved skin hydration. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(6):630-632. doi:10.36849/JDD.6105Visit the rosacea resource center.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products.

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

A novel mineralocorticoid receptor antagonist, 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone improves skin barrier function impaired by endogenous or exogenous glucocorticoids.

Excess glucocorticoids (GCs) with either endogenous or exogenous origins deteriorate skin barrier function. GCs bind to mineralocorticoid and GC receptors (MRs and GRs) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). Inappropriate MR activation by GCs mediates various GC-induced cutaneous adverse events. We examined whether MR antagonists can ameliorate GC-mediated skin barrier dysfunction in NHEKs, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), and subjects under psychological stress (PS). In a preliminary clinical investigation, topical MR antagonists improved skin barrier function in topical GC-treated subjects. In NHEKs, cortisol induced nuclear translocation of GR and MR, and GR and MR antagonists inhibited cortisol-induced reductions of keratinocyte differentiation. We identified 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (7,3',4'-THIF) as a novel compound that inhibits MR transcriptional activity by screening 30 cosmetic compounds. 7,3',4'-THIF ameliorated the cortisol effect which decreases keratinocyte differentiation in NHEKs and RHE. In a clinical study on PS subjects, 7,3',4'-THIF (0.1%)-containing cream improved skin barrier function, including skin surface pH, barrier recovery rate, and stratum corneum lipids. In conclusion, skin barrier dysfunction owing to excess GC is mediated by MR and GR; thus, it could be prevented by treatment with MR antagonists. Therefore, topical MR antagonists are a promising therapeutic option for skin barrier dysfunction after topical GC treatment or PS.

Atopic dermatitis: Role of the skin barrier, environment, microbiome, and therapeutic agents.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic, inflammatory skin disorder characterized by eczematous and pruritic skin lesions. In recent decades, the prevalence of AD has increased worldwide, most notably in developing countries. The enormous progress in our understanding of the complex composition and functions of the epidermal barrier allows for a deeper appreciation of the active role that the skin barrier plays in the initiation and maintenance of skin inflammation. The epidermis forms a physical, chemical, immunological, neuro-sensory, and microbial barrier between the internal and external environment. Not only lesional, but also non-lesional areas of AD skin display many morphological, biochemical and functional differences compared with healthy skin. Supporting this notion, genetic defects affecting structural proteins of the skin barrier, including filaggrin, contribute to an increased risk of AD. There is evidence to suggest that natural environmental allergens and man-made pollutants are associated with an increased likelihood of developing AD. A compromised epidermal barrier predisposes the skin to increased permeability of these compounds. Numerous topical and systemic therapies for AD are currently available or in development; while anti-inflammatory therapy is central to the treatment of AD, some existing and novel therapies also appear to exert beneficial effects on skin barrier function. Further research on the skin barrier, particularly addressing epidermal differentiation and inflammation, lipid metabolism, and the role of bacterial communities for skin barrier function, will likely expand our understanding of the complex etiology of AD and lead to identification of novel targets and the development of new therapies.

Evidence of Barrier Deficiency in Rosacea and the Importance of Integrating OTC Skincare Products into Treatment Regimens.

BACKGROUND: Rosacea, an inflammatory skin disease that leads to an impaired skin barrier function commonly involves the face. Symptoms of rosacea can be bothersome and include pain, stinging, burning, itching, and facial flushing. This review explored skin barrier impairment in rosacea and reduced symptomatology when using over the counter (OTC) skincare products. METHODS: Nine dermatologists (the panel) completed a survey on OTC products they recommend for rosacea. The survey results were summarized, presented, and discussed during the online meeting, together with the results of a literature review. The outcome of these discussions, coupled with the panel's expert opinion and experience, is shown in the current review. RESULTS: Addressing barrier dysfunction by use of moisturizer and cleanser formulations that restore skin hydration, normalize skin pH, restore the microbiome, and skin lipids can assist in improving rosacea signs and symptoms. The panel's consensus was that in addition to the use of prescription medications, skincare recommendations are a crucial part of successful rosacea therapy. In addition to occlusives and humectants, barrier restoring ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide were considered beneficial. Equally important was the absence of potentially irritating substances. CONCLUSIONS: The use of OTC products can improve rosacea symptomatology and signs. As adjuncts, these products are recommended before and during prescription therapy and as part of a maintenance regimen. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4):384-392. doi:10.36849/JDD.5861 THIS ARTICLE HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FREE OF CHARGE. PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO ACCESS THE FULL fTEXT OF THIS ARTICLE WITHOUT LOGGING IN. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. PLEASE CONTACT THE PUBLISHER WITH ANY QUESTIONS.