Occurrence of alkyl glucosides in rinse-off cosmetics marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin.

Rinse-off cosmetic products, primarily shampoos, are frequently implicated in the onset of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) caused by alkyl glucosides (AGs). AGs are increasingly popular surfactants and known contact allergens. Glucoside-induced ACD was most frequently observed with shampoos and skin-cleansing products in both consumer and occupational settings. Thereby, studies have shown that atopic individuals are the most susceptible to ACD. Also, several investigations have indicated that individuals with sensitive skin might be more prone to skin allergies. This is why the presence of AGs was investigated in shampoos and body cleansers marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin. For this purpose, the website of Amazon.com was surveyed. Four groups of cosmetics were obtained by using the following keywords: "hypoallergenic shampoo for adults," "sensitive skin shampoo for adults," "hypoallergenic body cleanser for adults," and "sensitive skin body cleanser for adults." The first 30 best-selling cosmetics in each group were investigated for the presence of AGs, by analyzing the product information pages. The results showed that as much as 56.7% of hypoallergenic shampoos contained AGs, as ingredients, whereas the percentage was somewhat lower for other product categories. Even though decyl and lauryl glucoside were nearly ubiquitously used AGs in cosmetics over the past decade, the most commonly present AG in our analysis was coco-glucoside. The results of this study indicated a necessity to include coco-glucoside in the baseline series of patch testing allergens. Industry, regulators, and healthcare providers should be made aware of the frequent presence of AGs in rinse-off cosmetic products marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin to ensure the safety and well-being of consumers and patients.

Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy.

BACKGROUND: Dandruff is a pervasive chronic condition which negatively impacts quality of life. Effective treatment requires efficient delivery of scalp benefit agents that control commensal scalp Malassezia levels. Delivery of benefit agents from shampoos requires balancing many technical parameters to achieve the desired outcome without sacrificing secondary parameters, such as cosmetic attributes. AIM: To develop formulation technologies that increase the shampoo delivery efficiency of the scalp benefit agent piroctone olamine (PO). Increased delivery should result in increased anti-dandruff efficacy. METHODS: Micellar Stability and Association parameters were quantified via dynamic surface tension and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) diffusion parameters, respectively. PO delivery has been assessed in vivo both on the scalp surface and follicular infindibula using extraction procedures and analytical analysis. Clinical anti-dandruff efficacy was assessed for an advanced delivery technology prototype in comparison to standard delivery technology. RESULTS: Shampoo prototypes have been developed that increase the delivery efficiency of PO. Both surfactant and polymer coacervate-based approaches have been developed. Decreased micellar stability results in weaker association between PO and micelles, resulting in more efficient PO retention on the scalp surface and delivery to the infundibula. Increased charge density of cationic polymers optimizes coacervation enabling improved PO delivery as well. Increased PO delivery has been shown clinically to result in higher anti-dandruff efficacy as measured by both visible flakes and underlying biomarkers. CONCLUSION: Increased efficiency PO delivery shampoos have been developed by optimization of both surfactant and coacervate parameters. The increased deposition efficiency results in significantly more products with significantly greater anti-dandruff efficacy.

CONTEXTE: Les pellicules sont une maladie chronique omniprésente qui a un impact négatif sur la qualité de vie. Un traitement efficace nécessite une administration efficace d'agents bénéfiques pour le cuir chevelu qui contrôlent les niveaux commensaux de Malassezia. L'administration d'agents bénéfiques à partir de shampooings nécessite d'équilibrer de nombreux paramètres techniques pour obtenir le résultat souhaité sans sacrifier des paramètres secondaires tels que les attributs cosmétiques. BUT: Développer des technologies de formulation qui augmentent l'efficacité d'administration du shampooing de l'agent bénéfique pour le cuir chevelu piroctone olamine (PO). Une livraison accrue devrait entraîner une efficacité antipelliculaire accrue. MÉTHODES: La stabilité micellaire et les paramètres d'association ont été quantifiés via les paramètres de tension superficielle dynamique et de diffusion RMN, respectivement. L'administration de PO a été évaluée in vivo à la fois sur la surface du cuir chevelu et sur l'indibula folliculaire à l'aide de procédures d'extraction et d'analyses analytiques. L'efficacité antipelliculaire clinique a été évaluée pour un prototype de technologie d'administration avancée par rapport à la technologie d'administration standard. RÉSULTATS: Des prototypes de shampooing ont été développés pour augmenter l'efficacité de livraison des PO. Des approches à base de tensioactifs et de coacervats polymères ont été développées. Une diminution de la stabilité micellaire entraîne une association plus faible entre le PO et les micelles, ce qui entraîne une rétention plus efficace du PO sur la surface du cuir chevelu et une livraison à l'infundibula. L'augmentation de la densité de charge des polymères cationiques optimise la coacervation, permettant également une meilleure administration de PO. Il a été démontré cliniquement que l'augmentation de l'administration de PO entraîne une efficacité antipelliculaire plus élevée, mesurée à la fois par les squames visibles et les biomarqueurs sous-jacents. CONCLUSION: Des shampooings à libération de PO à efficacité accrue ont été développés en optimisant à la fois les paramètres du tensioactif et du coacervat. L'efficacité de dépôt accrue se traduit par beaucoup plus de produits avec une efficacité antipelliculaire nettement supérieure.

Systematic review on skin adverse effects of important hazardous hair cosmetic ingredients with a focus on hairdressers.

BACKGROUND: The burden of occupational hand eczema in hairdressers is high, and (partly strong) allergens abound in the hair cosmetic products they use. OBJECTIVES: To systematically review published evidence concerning contact allergy to an indicative list of active ingredients of hair cosmetics, namely, p-phenylenediamine (PPD), toluene-2,5-diamine (PTD), persulfates, mostly ammonium persulfate (APS), glyceryl thioglycolate (GMTG), and ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), concerning the prevalence of sensitization, particularly in terms of a comparison (relative risk; RR) between hairdressers and non-hairdressers. METHODS: Following a PROSPERO-registered and published protocol, eligible literature published from 2000 to February 2021 was identified, yielding 322 publications, and extracted in standardized publication record forms, also considering risk of bias. RESULTS: Based on 141 publications, the contact allergy prevalence to PPD was 4.3% (95% CI: 3.8-4.9%) in consecutively patch tested patients. Other ingredients were mostly tested in an aimed fashion, yielding variable, and partly high contact allergy prevalences. Where possible, the RR was calculated, yielding an average increased sensitization risk in hairdressers of between 5.4 (PPD) and 3.4 (ATG). Additional evidence related to immediate-type hypersensitivity, experimental results, exposures, and information from case reports was qualitatively synthesized. CONCLUSIONS: An excess risk of contact allergy is clearly evident from the pooled published evidence from the last 20 years. This should prompt an improvement in working conditions and product safety.

Organoleptic and physicochemical properties of natural-based herbal shampoo formulations with Cyclea peltata as a key ingredient.

BACKGROUND: Synthetic shampoos have toxic chemical agents like chemicals such as parabens and sodium lauryl sulfate which damage the hair. To combat this issue, the use of natural herbal shampoos, as opposed to synthetic shampoos, is becoming increasingly popular. One of the many medicinal plants present in Karnataka and Kerala is Cyclea peltata. This plant has long been known to assist in wound healing, allergy relief, and hair and scalp improvement, as well as serving as a coolant for hair applications. OBJECTIVE: The key subject of this research was the preparation of plant extracts and fermentation of Cyclea peltata leaf extract with Lactobacillus plantarum, resulting in the formulation of an herbal shampoo. METHOD: The leaf extract contained alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acid, saponins, and proteins, according to previous research by this group. The fermented product showed the presence of lactic acid, which was a boon for shampoo base as it protects the hair from the sunlight and improves the texture and strength of hair fibers. Cyclea peltata was used as the main ingredient in herbal shampoo formulations, along with other herbal ingredients, and the formulated shampoo was characterized for its different organoleptic (Color, odor) and physicochemical properties (pH, solid content, wettability, emulsification, and foam stability) to find the best formulation. RESULT: Formulation H2 showed better organoleptic and physicochemical properties and thus was chosen as the best formulation among the 11 formulations. CONCLUSION: Formulation H2 is regarded as the best formulation based on the results of the physicochemical tests (Pleasant odor, pH 3.01, solid content of 5.75%, wettability of 1.68 s, and percentage emulsification of 68.75%).

Use of hair products in relation to ovarian cancer risk.

We evaluated whether hair products, which may contain carcinogens and endocrine disruptors that can be absorbed into the bloodstream, are related to ovarian cancer incidence in a prospective cohort. After excluding women with a history of ovarian cancer or bilateral oophorectomy, 40 559 Sister Study participants ages 35-74 at enrollment (2003-2009) were included. Participants completed questionnaires on hair product use, including hair dyes, straighteners/relaxers and permanents/body waves, in the past 12 months. Cox regression was used to estimate adjusted hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) for the association between hair products and incident ovarian cancer. We assessed associations stratified by tumor type (serous, non-serous). Over a mean follow-up of 10 years, 241 women were diagnosed with ovarian cancer. Ever use of any of the examined hair products during the past year was not associated with ovarian cancer risk. However, frequent use (>4 times/year) of straighteners/relaxers or pressing products in the past year was associated with an increased risk of ovarian cancer (HR = 2.19, 95% CI: 1.12-4.27). Ever use of permanent hair dye was positively associated with non-serous (HR = 1.94, 95% CI 1.12-3.37), but inversely associated with serous (HR = 0.65, 95% CI: 0.43-0.99) tumors (p-for-heterogeneity = 0.002). Our novel findings suggest that frequent use of hair straighteners/relaxers or pressing products, which are primarily used by African American/Black women, and possibly permanent hair dye, may be associated with the occurrence of ovarian cancers.

Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi-permanents and hair conditioners.

BACKGROUND: Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi-permanent waving and hair conditioning. METHODS: The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio-semi-permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR-FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer. RESULTS: The extract antioxidant had an IC50 of 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml exhibiting greater antioxidant potency compared to the controls quercetin (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) and ascorbic acid (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). The extract perm had a lower curling ability indicated by a perm set of 85.10 ± 3.92% and 81.35 ± 2.35% for Asian and African hairs, respectively, while commercial product, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) had 96.05 ± 1.70% and 93.60 ± 2.21% for the same. The curling of hair with extract perm resulted in less oxidative damage with oxidative peak areas of 3.37 ± 0.09 and 3.71 ± 0.03 as well as lower protein losses of 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg and 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg on Asian and African hair samples, respectively. The application of AC reduced the oxidative damage peak areas of ATG and extract perm treated Asian hair samples by 1.15 and 0.48 units, respectively. AC was also effective in reducing damage caused by UV radiation on ATG-treated samples by 1.06 units (African hair) and 1.09 units on Asian hair. CONCLUSION: The results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi-permanent curling.

CONTEXTE: les réactions aux traitements cosmétiques varient d'un type de cheveux à l'autre. Ainsi, de nombreuses options doivent être mises à disposition des consommateurs. Cette étude avait pour objectif d'évaluer l'utilisation d'un extrait antioxydant de Dicerocaryum senecioides en vue de proposer de nouveaux choix de produits actifs pour les mises en plis semi-permanentes et le conditionnement capillaire. MÉTHODES: les agents phytochimiques antioxydants ont d'abord été identifiés et isolés par chromatographie sur couche mince (CCM) et par pulvérisation d'agents révélateurs. La puissance antioxydante a été déterminée par une méthode de piégeage antiradicalaire à l'aide du DPPH et par un procédé de puissance de réduction du fer. L'extrait a été incorporé dans deux formulations différentes pour obtenir la permanente (semi-permanentes biologiques) et l'après-shampooing capillaire antioxydant. Les performances des formulations ont été évaluées selon des critères de bouclage et conditionnement capillaires sur des cheveux de types asiatiques et africains. L'évaluation des lésions capillaires reposait sur un examen de la surface des échantillons traités à l'aide d'un spectromètre infrarouge à transformée de Fourier en réflectance totale atténuée (attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infra-red spectrometer, ATR-FTIR) et sur une quantification des protéines perdues à l'aide d'un spectrophotomètre à ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis). RÉSULTATS: l'extrait antioxydant présentait une concentration inhibitrice médiane (IC50 ) de 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml, d'où une plus grande puissance antioxydante par rapport aux produits témoins, à savoir la quercétine (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) et l'acide ascorbique (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). La permanente présentait une plus faible capacité de bouclage, révélée par un taux de fixation de la permanente de 85.10 ± 3.92 % et de 81.35 ± 2.35 % pour les cheveux asiatiques et africains respectivement, tandis que le produit disponible dans le commerce, à savoir le thioglycolate d'ammonium (ATG), donnait des taux de 96.05 ± 1.70 % et de 93.60 ± 2.21 % dans les mêmes conditions. Le bouclage des cheveux à l'aide de la permanente a entraîné moins de lésions oxydatives, avec des zones de pics d'oxydation de 3.37 ± 0.09 et de 3.71 ± 0.03, ainsi que des pertes protéiques plus faibles, de 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg et de 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg sur les échantillons de cheveux asiatiques et africains respectivement. L'application de l'après-shampooing antioxydant a permis de réduire de 1.15 unité les zones de pics d'oxydation due à l'ATG sur les échantillons de cheveux asiatiques et la permanente a permis de traiter ces mêmes échantillons à raison de 0.48 unité. L'après-shampooing antioxydant s'est également avéré efficace pour réduire les lésions causées par les rayons UV sur les échantillons traités par ATG, de 1.06 unité sur les cheveux africains et de 1.09 unité sur les cheveux asiatiques. CONCLUSION: les résultats montrent que les extraits antioxydants de Dicerocaryum senecioides constituent une option prometteuse et plus sûre pour le conditionnement capillaire et les mises en pli semi-permanentes.

Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis.

OBJECTIVE: Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined. METHODS: All experiments were carried out with a custom-designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real-time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants-sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)-commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations. RESULTS: The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium-28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair. CONCLUSION: We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds.

OBJECTIF: Le guar cationique est un polysaccharide important utilisé comme conditionneur capillaire dans les produits cosmétiques. Dans ce rapport, nous démontrons l'utilisation de la technique du potentiel de streaming pour étudier comment le guar cationique interagit électrostatiquement avec les cheveux. Plusieurs variantes del guar cationique avec différents poids moléculaires et densités de charge ont été examinés. MÉTHODES: Nous avons utilisé un instrument de potentiel de streaming pour les expériences. Les études ont été réalisées en temps réel pour surveiller le traitement de cheveu avec des solutions aqueuses de guar cationique suivi d'un traitement ultérieur avec tensioactifs anioniques comment le sulfate de laureth de sodium et le cocamidopropyle bétaïne, des ingrédients généralement trouvés dans les formulations de shampooing. RÉSULTATS: Le poids moléculaire des variants du guar cationique joue un rôle intégral dans la détermination l'épaisseur de la couche de polymère adsorbée sur la surface des cheveux tandis que le densité de charge influence le potentiel zêta. Des données ont également été générées pour le traitement des cheveux avec un polymère flexible (polyquaternium-28) et tensioactif de conditionnement cationique (behentrimonium chlorure) pour fournir un cadre de référence. Le comportement de dépôt sur les cheveux des variants de guar cationiques à poids moléculaire élevé est distinct de ces molécules conventionnelles en termes de ses propriétés électrocinétiques. Nous avons également examiné le comportement électrocinétique de guar cationique sur des types de cheveux de différents milieux raciaux. Le traitement avec le guar cationique a donné des résultats similaires pour les différents types de cheveux. En contraste avec ceci, le traitement avec le tensioactif anionique a entraîné une sorption et une désorption plus rapides de cheveux africains, de cheveux européens (65% gris) et de cheveux mulâtres en comparaison à les cheveux chinois, européens et indiens. CONCLUSION: Nous introduisons une technique in situ pour mesurer la sorption et la désorption dynamique de molécules chargées à la surface des cheveux humains. L'évaluation d'une série des espèces de guar cationiques ont révélé un comportement variable en fonction du poids moléculaires et densités de charge de le polysaccharide. Nos données démontrent également des différences dans les propriétés de désorption de tensioactifs de shampooing typiques pour les cheveux de diverses origines raciales.

Risk factors for frontal fibrosing alopecia: A case-control study in a multiracial population.

BACKGROUND: Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a chronic cicatricial alopecia with unknown etiology and a worldwide rising incidence. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study was to evaluate the association of FFA with demographic and exposure factors in a Brazilian multiracial population. METHODS: A multicenter case-control study was conducted in 11 referral centers throughout Brazil. The study was a case-control study that prospectively recruited 902 participants (451 patients with FFA and 451 sex-matched control individuals). Study participants completed a thorough questionnaire comprising variables grouped as baseline demographics, environmental exposure, diet, hormonal factors, allergies, and hair and skin care. RESULTS: When adjusted by sex, age, menopause, and skin color, FFA was associated with hair straightening with formalin (odds ratio [OR], 3.18), use of ordinary (nondermatologic) facial soap (OR, 2.09) and facial moisturizer (OR, 1.99), thyroid disorders (OR, 1.69), and rosacea (OR, 2.08). Smokers (OR, 0.33) and users of antiresidue/clarifying shampoo (OR, 0.35) presented a negative association with FFA. There was no association with the use of sunscreen. LIMITATIONS: Recall bias. CONCLUSIONS: The association with moisturizers, ordinary facial soap, and hair straightening with formalin and the negative association with antiresidue/clarifying shampoo reinforce the possibility of an exogenous particle triggering FFA.

Allergen Content of Best-Selling Ethnic Versus Nonethnic Shampoos, Conditioners, and Styling Products.

BACKGROUND: Hair products are a potential cause of allergic contact dermatitis. There are limited data on the allergen content of ethnic hair products. OBJECTIVE: To identify allergens unique to ethnic hair products (shampoos, conditioners, styling products) and provide a resource for low allergen hair care products for patients with ethnic hair types. METHODS: The top 100 best-selling shampoos, conditioners, and styling products for ethnic and nonethnic hair products were determined from 3 major online retailers (Walmart, Target, Walgreens). Allergen was defined as presence on the 2017 American Contact Dermatitis Society Core 80 allergen list. RESULTS: The 2017 American Contact Dermatitis Society Core 80 allergens were tabulated for ethnic and nonethnic shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. A list of low-allergen shampoos, conditioners, and styling products was identified. Fragrance was the most common allergen for ethnic shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. Other notable allergens included methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone, formaldehyde releasers, cetyl steryl alcohol, tocopherol, decyl glucoside, sodium benzoate, and phenoxyethanol. CONCLUSIONS: This study identifies important differences in allergens found in products marketed for ethnic hair compared with those marketed for nonethnic hair.

Coacervation in Cationic Polyelectrolyte Solutions with Anionic Amino Acid Surfactants.

Coacervates formed by cationic polyelectrolytes and anionic surfactants are utilized to improve the user's tactile perception of shampooing hair during washing and after drying. In this study, we investigated the formation and structure of coacervates in aqueous systems containing anionic amino acid surfactants. The phase behaviors at constant temperature were investigated in aqueous systems combining cationic polyelectrolyte JR-400 with potassium cocoyl glutamate (CoGluK) or potassium cocoyl glycinate (CoGlyK) for a qualitative depiction of coacervate formation. The composition range of coacervate formation varied with the hydrophilic group of the surfactant. The surface tension was measured at different surfactant concentrations and constant polyelectrolyte concentration. The surface tension behavior revealed the critical association concentrations and critical micelle concentrations, indicating that coacervate was produced via complex formation through electrostatic interaction between opposite charges. Optical microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering measurements revealed that the coacervates were composed of fibrous aggregates, a few microns thick, and those formed in the CoGlyK system had thicker fibers.

Burnett's "Cocaine" for dandruff.

Joseph Burnett manufactured the diethyl ether used for William T.G. Morton's public demonstration of inhaled surgical anesthesia on October 16, 1846 (Ether Day). A later Burnett product was a hairdressing oil claimed to prevent baldness and dandruff. It contained cocoa-nut oil and was called Cocoaine. In 1902 and 1903, it was sometimes advertised as Burnett's Cocaine (rather than Cocoaine), possibly to emulate the economic success of coca-based beverages such as Vin Mariani and Coca-Cola. Coca leaves are now decocainized before use in preparation of Coca-Cola, and the recovered cocaine is used for scientific and dwindling medical purposes.

Turning autophobic wetting on biomimetic surfaces into complete wetting by wetting additives.

Autophobicity or pseudo partial wetting, a phenomenon of a liquid not spreading on its own monolayer, is characterized by an energy barrier that prevents the growth of a wetting film beyond the monolayer thickness. Applying a molecularly detailed self-consistent field theory we illustrate how autophobic wetting can be overcome by wetting additives. More specifically we use an emulsifier which keeps the interfacial tension between the wetting component and the majority solvent low, and a co-solvent additive which partitions inside the film and then destroys the molecular order in it so that the barrier for film growth is cleared. An application wherein it is believed that autophobic wetting is counteracted by such a set of wetting additives is found in an antidandruff shampoo formulation. We have experimental results that show thick deposits onto hydrophobic hair surfaces by administration of the antidandruff shampoo. The complementary modeling of such a system suggests that the active ingredient plays the role of the co-solvent additive. As significant amounts of the co-solvent additives are needed to approach the completely wet state, the formulation naturally brings large amounts of active ingredient to the root of the hair where its presence is required.

Hair surface quality: Laser scattering as a tool for characterizing the surface condition and deposits from shampoos and conditioners.

OBJECTIVES: The hair surface condition underlies many visually perceived attributes such as shine, colour and the 3D perception of a curly hair style. Many factors can alter the hair surface such as cumulated cleansing/styling regimens or chemical treatments which can lead to degradation of the cuticle edges and surface. Similarly, pollutants, sebum, and shampoo/conditioners can build up on the hair surface which are also perceivable to an observer. METHODS: The highly directive light of a laser is reflected and scattered by the surface of hair fibres into a circular pattern. The angular and spatial characteristics of this pattern reflect the hair geometry and the quality of the hair surface, i.e. the outer cuticle layer. Dark flat hair tresses were used to measure the impact of artificial sebum and shampoo/conditioner regimens on the cuticle surfaces. Also, longer single hair fibres from 4 volunteers were characterized for their surface changes from roots to tips, i.e. over the chronological age of the hair. RESULTS: The laser scattering shows clear changes in specular reflection characteristics from treatments and allows for the extraction of the cuticle inclination angle with respect to the hair axis. Deep cleansing or clarifying shampoos do partially restore the cuticle angle by removing residues on the hair surface whereas more conditioning systems can lead to changes in specular reflection angle and scattering, especially for multiple cycles of shampoo + conditioner treatments. Lastly, changes in hair surface can be traced over time of hair age by this approach and are consistent with frequency and nature of hair treatments. CONCLUSIONS: The method shows great potential for characterizing cleansing regimens in terms of their impact on the hair surface, either as single or multiple washes. Coverage or damage to the hair cuticles appears readily as an angle shift of the specular reflection whereas the quality of the surface topology has a direct impact on the angular width of the specular reflection thus affecting the shine band on a person's head. Hair ageing from root to tip can be quantified by laser scattering and correlates well with treatment events in time.

OBJECTIFS: L'état de la surface du cheveu est à la base de nombreuses propriétés optiques d'une coiffure: brillance, rendu couleur, perception d'un style dans l'espace 3D. Beaucoup de facteurs peuvent affecter et dégrader la qualité de surface du cheveu, notamment les régimes de shampoing/conditionneurs qui peuvent laisser des résidus. Les polluants, l'accumulation de sébum peuvent également affecter la perception du cheveu par un observateur. METHODES: La Lumière directionnelle d'un laser est réfléchie et diffusée par le cheveu en un arc de cercle. Les caractéristiques angulaires de cet arc reflètent les caractéristiques de la surface du cheveu. Des tresses de cheveu noir ont été utilisées pour évaluer le pouvoir nettoyant de shampoings sur du sébum artificiel. De plus, différents régimes shampooing + conditionneur ont été évalués en terme d'impact sur la qualité de surface du cheveu. Finalement, des fibres de cheveux longs de 4 volontaires ont été caractérisées grâce aux changements de leur surface entre les racines et les pointes en fonction de l'âge chronologique des cheveux. RESULTATS: La réflexion laser démontre clairement des changements caractéristiques de la réflexion spéculaire pour diffèrent traitements et permet même l'extraction de l'angle d'inclinaison des cuticules par rapport à l'axe du cheveu. L'efficacité nettoyante de shampoings est clairement mesurée par l'élimination de sébum sur la surface du cheveu. L'accumulation de résidus suite à des lavages avec différents régimes shampoing + conditionneur est également mesurée, après 1 et 3 cycles de lavage. Finalement, des changements de la surface du cheveu ont pu être mesurés sur les cheveux de 4 volontaires ce qui corrèlent bien avec les routines et traitements chimiques utilisées dans le temps passé. CONCLUSIONS: La méthode de réflexion et diffusion laser a démontré être très prometteuse pour mesurer les changements de la qualité optique de la surface du cheveu, que celle-ci soit le résultat de dégradation ou d'accumulation de produits. Les effets sont clairement visibles par les changements de l'angle de la réflexion spéculaire ainsi que la largeur angulaire de cette réflexion. Des résidus à la surface peuvent réduire l'angle moyen d'inclinaison des cuticules ce qui décale l'angle de réflexion spéculaire tandis que l'irrégularité de la surface des cuticules affecte la largeur angulaire de cette réflexion. Finalement le vieillissement des cheveux de la racine aux pointes peut être quantifié par diffusion laser et est bien corrélé aux traitements subis par le cheveu a un moment dans son passé.

Impact of acid straightener's pH value in the hair fiber properties.

BACKGROUND: Acid straightener products are widely used, and it can cause changes in the hair shaft properties. The pH value of these products established by ANVISA (Brazil's National Health Surveillance Agency) as secure is above 2.0. However, the industries are interested in working at lower pH values in order to increase the straightening effect. Unfortunately, there are a lot of products in the market with pH value under the permitted. OBJECTIVE: Analyze two different pH values (1.0 and 2.0) of acid straightener formulation and the influence of this difference in the hair shaft properties. In order to provide information to professionals as cosmetologists, dermatologists, and hairdressers. METHODS: Combing and colorimetric analyses, tensile strength, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), environmental scanning electron microscope (ESEM), and tryptophan content. RESULTS: The tresses treated at pH 1.0 had a better result in the straightening capacity, improving the combing test in 59.4%, while those at pH 2.0, only in 33.0% compared with virgin hair. However, the tensile strength, at pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and 9.0% to the pH 2.0. In addition, the tryptophan content was lower in the tresses treated with formulation at pH 1.0. The DSC analysis showed impairment in the straightened tresses. The images by ESEM, indicated a possible formation of a film around the fiber. CONCLUSIONS: It was possible to conclude that the pH value interferes in the hair shaft properties. Tresses treated with pH 1.0 had more modifications than tresses treated with pH 2.0.

The pH of lye and no-lye hair relaxers, including those advertised for children, is at levels that are corrosive to the skin.

BACKGROUND: Hair relaxers are used by up to 70% of females of black African ancestry. Occupational safety regulations list a pH ≥10.5 as irritant and a pH ≥11.50 as corrosive to the skin. OBJECTIVES: To determine the pH of all relaxers sold on the South African market and whether it is lower in no-lye relaxers and those marketed for children. METHODS: Relaxers were purchased from retailers in Cape Town, but more than half (54%) of the 39 brands tested were international. The pH was determined using a benchtop pH meter with an electrode for emulsions. Three pH readings were done over 3 consecutive days for each sample, and the average was used for data analysis. Differences between relaxers were analysed using Kruskal-Wallis, Wilcoxon rank-sum (Mann-Whitney) and two-sample t-tests (p<0.05). RESULTS: The median pH of all relaxers (calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide) was 12.36 (interquartile range 12.10 - 12.62). The active ingredient was sodium hydroxide (lye or caustic soda) in 63% of the total of 121 relaxers (6/76 (7.9%) of these marketed for children). Lithium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide (no-lye) relaxers comprised 17% and 20%, respectively. No difference in pH was found between relaxers marketed for adults and those for children (sodium hydroxide p=0.2703, lithium hydroxide p=0.6787 and calcium hydroxide p=0.1048) or between lye (sodium hydroxide) and no-lye (calcium hydroxide) relaxers (p=0.2740). Furthermore, 64/70 (91%) of sodium hydroxide relaxers for adults and 4/6 (67%) of those for children were sold packaged without a neutralising shampoo. CONCLUSIONS: The pH of all the relaxers tested was at levels deemed corrosive to the skin and may contribute to the high prevalence of alopecia in females with afro-textured hair. A review of permissible safe pH levels for cosmetic use is warranted.

Prevalence of Surfactant in the Contact Allergen Management Program.

BACKGROUND: Surfactants are common ingredients in topical products, which can cause both irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to determine the prevalence of 12 common groups of surfactants and 12 common individual surfactants among products in each category in the American Contact Dermatitis Society Contact Allergen Management Program (CAMP). METHODS: The American Contact Dermatitis Society CAMP was queried for the 12 surfactant groups and the 12 individual surfactants. RESULTS: The laureth/pareth sulfate group was the most prevalent surfactant group in CAMP products (17.9%). Laureth/pareth sulfates were the most common surfactant group in all product categories, except household and eye care products. The betaine/sultaine group (13.5%) and glucosides (10.0%) were also found in a significant proportion of CAMP products. Oleamidopropyl dimethylamine has the highest positive reaction rate (3.5%) but was tied for the lowest prevalence (0.20%) of the 12 individual surfactants studied. In contrast, cocamidopropyl betaine has a lower positive reaction rate (1.6%) with a higher prevalence (10.4%). CONCLUSIONS: Surfactants were commonly found across all product types in CAMP. This study provides important information on allergen and irritant exposures in care products.

Use of inline near-infrared spectroscopy to predict the viscosity of shampoo using multivariate analysis.

OBJECTIVE: In the personal care industry, viscosity is a critical quality attribute that influences product quality and process economics. Like many industrial liquids, personal care liquids are complex non-Newtonian liquids made up of aqueous surfactant systems whose viscosity depends on the build-up of micellar networks. Measuring the viscosity of complex liquids offline is easily done using benchtop rheometers and viscometers. The challenge lies in measuring the viscosity of personal care liquids online during manufacturing. Being able to track the viscosity of such products through their manufacturing cycle will not only allow for better process control but also more enhanced quality control. Therefore, the aim of this work was to investigate how proxy measurements using inline near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy in transmission mode can be used to predict the viscosity of shampoo. NIR spectroscopy has not, to the best our knowledge, been used to predict the viscosity of complex surfactant systems like shampoo and could significantly affect the way quality is monitored in a manufacturing environment. METHOD: This work focuses on viscosity changes because of differences in chloride content as salt is often used to adjust viscosity. The relationship between salt content and the viscosity of shampoo is well known following the salt curve. From an industrial perspective the region of interest for the formulation studied in this work only covers a small section of this curve. Therefore, two predictive models were developed: one covering the full range of the salt curve and another focusing on the industrially applicable region. RESULT: Models were produced using partial least squares (PLS) where both datasets showed some predictive ability with the concentrated region of interest showing enhanced performance [root mean square error of prediction (RMSEP) - 2.32 Pa s] compared with the larger range (RMSEP - 4.44 Pa s). CONCLUSION: This work provides a good starting point for developing robust predictive models for in situ viscosity measurements for shampoo manufacturing, where further work into different sources of variation and the extent of the modelling capability with regards to different formulations should be studied.

OBJECTIF: Dans le secteur des soins personnels, la viscosité est une caractéristique de qualité cruciale qui influe sur la qualité du produit et l'économie en matière de processus. Comme de nombreux liquides industriels, les liquides destinés aux soins personnels sont des liquides non newtoniens complexes composés de systèmes tensioactifs aqueux dont la viscosité dépend de l'accumulation de réseaux micellaires. Mesurer la viscosité de liquides complexes hors ligne est facilement effectué à l'aide de rhéomètres et de viscosimètres de paillasse. Le défi consiste à mesurer la viscosité des liquides destinés aux soins personnels en ligne pendant la fabrication. Pouvoir suivre la viscosité de tels produits tout au long de leur cycle de fabrication permettra non seulement de mieux contrôler le processus mais aussi d'obtenir un meilleur contrôle qualité. Par conséquent, l'objectif de ce travail était d'étudier comment des mesures par procuration en utilisant la spectroscopie proche infrarouge (NIR) en ligne en mode de transmission peuvent être utilisées pour prédire la viscosité du shampooing. La spectroscopie proche infrarouge n'a pas, au mieux de nos connaissances, été utilisée pour prédire la viscosité de systèmes tensioactifs comme le shampooing, et elle pourrait significativement affecter la façon dont la qualité est surveillée dans un environnement de fabrication. MÉTHODE: Ce travail se concentre sur les changements au niveau de la viscosité en raison de différences dans la teneur en chlorure puisque le sel est souvent utilisé pour ajuster la viscosité. La relation entre la teneur en sel et la viscosité du shampooing est bien connue suivant la courbe du sel. D'un point de vue industriel, le domaine d'intérêt pour la formulation étudiée dans ce travail couvre seulement une petite section de cette courbe. Par conséquent, deux modèles prédictifs ont été développés : l'un portant sur la gamme complète de la courbe du sel et l'autre se concentrant sur le domaine applicable à l'industrie. RÉSULTAT: Les modèles ont été fabriqués en utilisant la méthode des moindres carrés partiels (partial least squares, PLS) où les deux ensembles de données ont montré un certain degré de capacité prédictive, le domaine concentré d'intérêt ayant fait preuve d'une meilleure performance (Root Mean Square Error of Prediction, RMSEP - 2,32 Pa s) par rapport à la plage de plus grande envergure (RMSEP - 4,44 Pa s). CONCLUSION: Ce travail fournit un bon point de départ pour élaborer des modèles prédictifs robustes servant à mesurer la viscosité in situ durant la fabrication des shampooings, mais d'autres travaux portant sur différentes sources de variation et sur l'ampleur de la capacité de modélisation de diverses formules doivent être effectués.

Study of the composition of 140 shampoos: similarities and differences depending on the sales channel used.

Shampoo is a hair care product designed to clean the skin and hair of the scalp. Among the ingredients that go into the making of a shampoo are detergents, conditioners, thickeners, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, and active ingredients such as anti-dandruff agents. The purpose of this study was to identify the composition of 140 shampoos available in pharmacies, in stores of a mass-market chain, or from mail-order retailers. Forty-one shampoos were advertised as "gentle", 12 as specially formulated for infants, 35 as anti-dandruff, and 52 without any particular claim. We analysed the cleansing base, preservatives, and anti-dandruff agents when relevant and identified the allergens regardless of whether or not they are listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 as one of the 26 regulated substances. We discovered that unlike shampoos sold in stores of a mass-market chain and those available from mail-order retailers, those sold in pharmacies expose users to some of the 26 substances listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. We also determined that baby shampoos sold in pharmacies are allergen-free. Regarding anti-dandruff formulations, the largest variety of active ingredients was found in shampoos sold in pharmacies. Overall, the most common active ingredients were olamines, zinc pyrithione, azoles, selenium disulphide, and plant extracts. Shampoos sold in pharmacies appear to contain fewer allergens listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 compared to those sold elsewhere.