Effects of a Sheer 100% Mineral Sunscreen Moisturizer on Facial Photodamage Across Fitzpatrick Skin Types.

BACKGROUND: All skin tones need to be protected from the damaging effects of solar radiation. Although mineral sunscreens offer protection, they can have a thick, greasy feel and leave a white cast, particularly on darker skin tones. Tints offset white cast and provide visible light protection; however, patients may prefer a sheer option. Therefore, a multifunctional, sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer (MSM) with broad-spectrum SPF 50 was developed to have positive aesthetics and deliver anti-aging and skin health benefits to all skin tones.  Methods: An IRB-approved, 12-week, open-label clinical study was conducted to investigate the efficacy and tolerability of the MSM. Thirty-nine (39) females aged 35 to 60 years with moderate-severe overall facial photodamage and representing all Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) were recruited. Participants applied the MSM to the face and neck in the morning and reapplied per US Food and Drug Administration requirements. Efficacy and tolerability grading, photography, ultrasound imaging, corneometer measurements, and questionnaires were completed at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12.  Results: Statistically significant progressive improvements were demonstrated from baseline to week 12. At week 12, 23.4% and 26.5% mean improvements in overall photodamage were seen for FST I-III and FST IV-VI, respectively. Favorable tolerability was shown for both the face and neck. Photography corroborated clinical grading, and ultrasound imaging indicated a trend in skin density improvement. The MSM was well-perceived.  Conclusion: The MSM is an efficacious and well-tolerated product for patients of all skin tones who desire a sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer with anti-aging and skin health benefits. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):538-544.  doi:10.36849/JDD.8082.

A Prospective, Multicenter, Evaluator-Blinded, Randomized Study of Diluted Calcium Hydroxylapatite to Treat Decollete Wrinkles.

BACKGROUND: Calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) dermal filler is used for a variety of aesthetic treatments; however, the safety and effectiveness of diluted CaHA for the treatment of décolleté wrinkles have not been established. OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the effectiveness and safety of diluted CaHA (Radiesse; 1:2 CaHA:saline) injection for the improvement of décolleté wrinkles in females. METHODS: Eligible females with moderate or severe ratings on the Merz Aesthetic Scale (MAS) Decollete Wrinkles - At Rest received up to 3 injection cycles of diluted CaHA either 8 weeks apart (3 injection cycles) or 16 weeks apart (2 injection cycles). Effectiveness was evaluated by improvement on the MAS. Adverse events were recorded over a 52 week period. RESULTS: Sixteen weeks after the last treatment, the response rate (1-point improvement or greater) on the MAS Decollete Wrinkles - At Rest was 73.5% (P<0.0001; pooled sample) for all patients. The use of diluted CaHA in the decollete also demonstrated a favorable safety profile. CONCLUSIONS: Diluted CaHA is a safe and effective treatment for the improvement of decollete wrinkles in females.J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):551-556.  doi:10.36849/JDD.8261.

The impact of air pollution on the facial skin of Caucasian women using real-life pollutant exposure measurements.

BACKGROUND: To date, studies examining the effect of air pollution on skin characteristics have relied on regional pollution estimates obtained from fixed monitoring sites. Hence, there remains a need to characterize the impact of air pollution in vivo in real-time conditions. We conducted an initial investigation under real-life conditions, with the purpose of characterizing the in vivo impact of various pollutants on the facial skin condition of women living in Paris over a 6-month period. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A smartphone application linked to the Breezometer platform was used to collect participants' individual exposures to pollutants through the recovery of global positioning system (GPS) data over a 6-month period. Daily exposure to fine particulate matter (PM 2.5 µm and PM 10 µm), pollen, and air quality was measured. Facial skin color, roughness, pore, hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle measurements were taken at the end of the 6-month period. Participants' cumulated pollutant exposure over 6 months was calculated. Data were stratified into two groups (lower vs. higher pollutant exposure) for each pollutant. RESULTS: 156 women (20-60 years-old) were recruited, with 124 women completing the study. Higher PM 2.5 µm exposure was associated with altered skin color and increased roughness under the eye. Higher PM 10 µm exposure with increased wrinkles and roughness under the eye, increased pore appearance, and decreased skin hydration. Exposure to poorer air quality was linked with increased forehead wrinkles and decreased skin elasticity, while higher pollen exposure increased skin roughness and crow's feet. CONCLUSION: This study suggests a potential correlation between air pollution and facial skin in real-life conditions. Prolonged exposure to PM, gases, and pollen may be linked to clinical signs of skin ageing. This study highlights the importance of longer monitoring over time in real conditions to characterize the effect of pollution on the skin.

Effectiveness of topical hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in xerosis cutis treatment in elderly: a double-blind, randomized controlled trial.

Dry skin is a common dermatological condition that frequently affects the elderly. A contributing cause to dry skin is a reduced concentration of hyaluronic acid (HA) in both the epidermis and dermis. The effectiveness of moisturizer containing HA as a therapy for dry skin is impacted by its specific molecular weight. Low molecular weight HA (LMWHA) is believed to be more effective in replenishing skin hydration in aging skin compared to High Molecular Weight HA (HMWHA) due to its ability to penetrate the stratum corneum. However, there is a lack of clinical research supporting this claim. A double-blind, randomized controlled trial was conducted on 36 residents of a nursing home in Jakarta. The participants, aged between 60 and 80 years, had been diagnosed with dry skin. Each test subject was administered three distinct, randomized moisturizing lotions (LMWHA, HMWHA, or vehicle), to be topically applied to three separate sites on the leg. Skin capacitance (SCap), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and specified symptom sum score (SRRC) were measured at weeks 0, 2, and 4. After four weeks of therapy, area that was treated with LMWHA showed greater SCap values compared to the area treated with HMWHA (56.37 AU vs. 52.37 AU, p = 0.004) and vehicle (56.37 AU vs. 49.01 AU, p < 0.001). All groups did not show any significant differences in TEWL and SRRC scores. No side effects were found in all groups. The application of a moisturizer containing LMWHA to the dry skin of elderly resulted in significant improvements in skin hydration compared to moisturizers containing HMWHA and vehicle. Furthermore, these moisturizers demonstrated similar safety in treating dry skin in the elderly. ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier NCT06178367, https://clinicaltrials.gov/study/NCT06178367 .

Oral Administration of Deer Bone Collagen Peptide Can Enhance the Skin Hydration Ability and Antioxidant Ability of Aging Mice Induced by D-Gal, and Regulate the Synthesis and Degradation of Collagen.

Skin problems caused by aging have attracted much attention, and marine collagen peptides have been proved to improve these problems, while mammalian collagen peptides are rarely reported. In this study, fermented deer bone collagen peptide (FCP) and non-fermented deer bone collagen peptide (NCP) were extracted from fermented and non-fermented deer bone, respectively, and their peptide sequences and differential proteins were analyzed using LC-MS/MS technology. After they were applied to aging mice induced with D-gal, the skin hydration ability, antioxidant ability, collagen synthesis, and degradation ability of the mice were studied. The results show that FCP and NCP are mainly peptides that constitute type Ⅰ collagen, and their peptide segments are different. In vivo experiments show that FCP and NCP can improve the richness of collagen fibers in the skin of aging mice; improve the hydration ability of skin; promote the activity of antioxidant-related enzymes; and also show that through the TGF-ß and MAPK pathways, the synthesis and degradation of collagen in skin are regulated. These results show that deer bone collagen peptide can improve skin problems caused by aging, promote skin hydration and antioxidant capacity of aging mice, and regulate collagen synthesis and degradation through the MAPK pathway.

A multicenter, double-blind, randomized, parallel-group, active-controlled, phase 3 clinical trial to compare the effectiveness and safety of two botulinum toxin type A formulations for improving moderate to severe glabellar wrinkles in Asians.

Botulinum toxin type A (BoNT-A) was first isolated in 1946, and since then, several formulations have been developed and widely used to treat wrinkles by inducing muscle paralysis. This multicenter, double-blind, randomized, parallel-group, active-controlled phase 3 clinical trial was designed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a newly developed BoNT-A formulation, BMI2006, in improving moderate to severe glabellar wrinkles and to compare with existing onabotulinumtoxin A (OBoNT) injections. A total of 276 subjects were enrolled and received 20 units of the randomized material, which was intramuscularly injected into five different locations on the forehead. The primary endpoint, assessed at 4 weeks, showed no statistically significant difference in the improvement rate of glabellar wrinkles between the two groups, with BMI2006 demonstrating non-inferiority to comparator BoNT-A. Secondary endpoints, evaluated by both treating investigators and independent investigators, also exhibited similar improvement rates throughout the study period. Both groups reported high levels of satisfaction with no statistical difference between the two groups. Safety evaluations indicated mild and transient adverse events, with no serious reactions observed. In conclusion, BMI2006 is an effective and safe BoNT-A for treating glabellar wrinkles with an expected duration of action between 8 and 12 weeks.

Poly-l-lactic acid microspheres delay aging of epidermal stem cells in rat skin.

Objective: Injectable skin fillers offer a wider range of options for cutaneous anti-aging and facial rejuvenation. PLLA microspheres are increasingly favored as degradable and long-lasting fillers. The present study focused solely on the effect of PLLA on dermal collagen, without investigating its impact on the epidermis. In this study, we investigated the effects of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs). Methods: Different concentrations of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs) in vitro through culture, and identification of primary rat EpiSCs. CCK-8 detection, apoptosis staining, flow cytometry, Transwell assay, wound healing assay, q-PCR analysis, and immunofluorescence staining were used to detect the effects of PLLA on EpiSCs. Furthermore, we observed the effect on the epidermis by injecting PLLA into the dermis of the rat skin in vivo. Results: PLLA microspheres promote cell proliferation and migration while delaying cell senescence and maintaining its stemness. In vitro, Intradermal injection of PLLA microspheres in the rat back skin resulted in delayed aging, as evidenced by histological and immunohistochemical staining of the skin at 2, 4, and 12 weeks of follow-up. Conclusion: This study showed the positive effects of PLLA on rat epidermis and EpiSCs, while providing novel insights into the anti-aging mechanism of PLLA.

A review: Structure, bioactivity and potential application of algal polysaccharides in skin aging care and therapy.

Skin is the first barrier of body which stands guard for defending aggressive pathogens and environmental pressures all the time. Cutaneous metabolism changes in harmful exposure, following with skin dysfunctions and diseases. Lots of researches have reported that polysaccharides extracted from seaweeds exhibited multidimensional bioactivities in dealing with skin disorder. However, few literature systematically reviews them. The aim of the present paper is to summarize structure, bioactivities and structure-function relationship of algal polysaccharides acting on skin. Algal polysaccharides show antioxidant, immunomodulating, hydration regulating, anti-melanogenesis and extracellular matrix (ECM) regulating abilities via multipath ways in skin. These bioactivities are determined by various parameters, including seaweed species, molecular weight, monosaccharides composition and substitute groups. In addition, potential usages of algae-derived polysaccharides in skin care and therapy are also elaborated. Algal polysaccharides are potential ingredients in formulation that providing anti-aging efficacy for skin.

The combination of tetramethylpyrazine and vitamin A acid in the treatment of skin photoaging by activating the HIF-1α pathway.

Skin photoaging is a skin degenerative disease that causes patients to develop malignant tumors. The existing clinical treatment of photoaging has limitations. This greatly reduces the recovery rate of photoaging patients. Studies have confirmed that Ligusticum wallichii Franch (LWF) monomer tetramethylpyrazine (TMP) alleviates various skin diseases. The combination of traditional Chinese medicine and Western medicine helps with this process. Our research aimed to explore the specific treatment mode and molecular mechanism of TMP in treating skin photoaging. CCK-8 assays were used to evaluate the activity and toxicity of HaCaT cells. ß-galactosidase aging, Carbonyl compound and nitrosylated tyrosine assays were used to analyze the aging of HaCaT cells. ROS assays and ELISA were used to analyze the enrichment of ROS. The molecular docking experiment analyzed the binding of TMP and HIF-1α. qRT-PCR and Western blot were used to detect the activation of skin aging-related pathways. HE staining was used to analyze the thickness of the stratum corneum skin on the back skin of mice. 200µg/L LWF alleviates cellular photoaging and mouse skin photoaging by reducing ROS enrichment. Its monomer TMP plays an important role in this process. The combination of TMP and HIF-1α accelerates the degradation of ROS by activating the Nrf2/ARE signaling pathway. This process reduces the apoptosis of cells damaged by light. In addition, we also found that the combination of TMP and retinoic acid (RA) is more beneficial for the treatment of skin damage caused by light in mice. The combination therapy of TMP and RA alleviates skin oxidative stress response through overexpression of HIF-1α. This plan is beneficial for the treatment of skin photoaging.

Top weapons in skin aging and actives to target the consequences of skin cell senescence.

Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with 'dermatoporosis' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.

Combined multilevel anti-aging strategies and practical applications of dermocosmetics in aesthetic procedures.

Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well-being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long-lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre- or post-procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti-aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi-active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.

An update on the safety of hydroquinone.

Hydroquinone has been used for years for multiple conditions, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dyschromia from photoaging, and solar lentigines. It is known to be a very effective lightening agent, but several concerns have been raised about this widely used agent. The recent U.S. ban on over-the-counter skin lightening products containing hydroquinone has prompted further questioning of the safety of this widely used agent. While there have been prior informative, large-scale reviews on the safety of hydroquinone, new findings have since been reported. Here, we provide an updated review of studies published in the past 15 years on hydroquinone safety.

Real-world experience with a treatment with a skincare regimen of products containing the Macrocystis pyrifera ferment for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments are an important part of helping reduce facial signs of aging. AIMS: This article highlights real-world experience with a Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen comprising a cleansing foam, a serum, and a moisturizer with anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, anti-erythema, and healing properties for facial skin condition improvement. PATIENTS/METHODS: The real-world case (RWC) series presented highlights and the expert panel's clinical experience with the M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen used for 12 weeks to improve facial skin conditions. The panelists convened a meeting to discuss and select RWCs from their practice using the M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen. RESULTS: The RWC series showed that erythema and inflamed, easily irritated skin bother patients, even when it is mild. Reducing inflammation, erythema, and visible signs of facial aging and improving skin health contributed to patient satisfaction. CONCLUSION: The M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen comprising a cleansing foam, a serum, and a moisturizer is effective in decreasing the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

The Effects of Dietary Supplementation with Collagen and Vitamin C and Their Combination with Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Density, Texture and Other Parameters: A Randomised, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial.

Collagen dietary supplements are becoming increasingly popular as a means to reduce signs of skin ageing. The objective of this three-way, randomised, placebo-controlled, double-blind study was to examine and contrast the effects of dietary supplementation with a daily dose of 5 g hydrolysed collagen with 80 mg of vitamin C (CP product) and their combination with 30 mg of hyaluronic acid (CPHA product) over 16 weeks. Validated methods were utilised for the objective evaluation of skin parameters. In total, 87 subjects (women, 40-65 years) completed the entire trial, distributed across the groups as follows: placebo group (n = 29), CPHA group (n = 28), and CP group (n = 30). The results showed beneficial effects of both test products, with notable enhancements in dermis density, skin texture, and a reduction in the severity of wrinkles. In contrast, the administration of either of the products did not yield any significant impacts on skin elasticity or hydration. Observation of the investigated skin parameters did not show superior effects of the addition of hyaluronic acid (HA) to collagen. Therefore, the ability of supplementation with HA to improve the effects on investigated skin parameters beyond the supplementation of collagen alone cannot be confirmed.

Exogenous Nucleotides Improve the Skin Aging of SAMP8 Mice by Modulating Autophagy through MAPKs and AMPK Pathways.

The skin, serving as the body's primary defense against external elements, plays a crucial role in protecting the body from infections and injuries, as well as maintaining overall homeostasis. Skin aging, a common manifestation of the aging process, involves the gradual deterioration of its normal structure and repair mechanisms. Addressing the issue of skin aging is increasingly imperative. Multiple pieces of evidence indicate the potential anti-aging effects of exogenous nucleotides (NTs) through their ability to inhibit oxidative stress and inflammation. This study aims to investigate whether exogenous NTs can slow down skin aging and elucidate the underlying mechanisms. To achieve this objective, senescence-accelerated mouse prone-8 (SAMP8) mice were utilized and randomly allocated into Aging, NTs-low, NTs-middle, and NTs-high groups, while senescence-accelerated mouse resistant 1 (SAMR1) mice were employed as the control group. After 9 months of NT intervention, dorsal skin samples were collected to analyze the pathology and assess the presence and expression of substances related to the aging process. The findings indicated that a high-dose NT treatment led to a significant increase in the thickness of the epithelium and dermal layers, as well as Hyp content (p < 0.05). Additionally, it was observed that low-dose NT intervention resulted in improved aging, as evidenced by a significant decrease in p16 expression (p < 0.05). Importantly, the administration of high doses of NTs could improve, in some ways, mitochondrial function, which is known to reduce oxidative stress and promote ATP and NAD+ production significantly. These observed effects may be linked to NT-induced autophagy, as evidenced by the decreased expression of p62 and increased expression of LC3BI/II in the intervention groups. Furthermore, NTs were found to upregulate pAMPK and PGC-1α expression while inhibiting the phosphorylation of p38MAPK, JNK, and ERK, suggesting that autophagy may be regulated through the AMPK and MAPK pathways. Therefore, the potential induction of autophagy by NTs may offer benefits in addressing skin aging through the activation of the AMPK pathway and the inhibition of the MAPK pathway.

Comprehensive evaluation of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-component anti-aging topical eye cream.

BACKGROUND: The delicate periorbital region is susceptible to skin dehydration, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. Thus, targeted and effective anti-aging interventions are necessary for the periorbital area. AIM: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a new anti-aging eye cream formulated with the active complex (Yeast/rice fermentation filtrate, N-acetylneuraminic acid, palmityl tripeptide-1, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7). METHODS: The cell viability and expressions of key extracellular matrix (ECM) components of the active complex were evaluated using a human skin fibroblast model. In the 12-week clinical trial, skin hydration, elasticity, facial photographs, and collagen density following eye cream application were assessed using Corneometer, Cutometer, VISIA, and ultrasound device, respectively. Dermatologists and participants evaluated clinical efficacy and safety at baseline, and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks. RESULTS: PCR and immunofluorescent analyses revealed that the active complex significantly stimulated fibroblast proliferation (p < 0.05) and markedly promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Clinical findings exhibited a substantial enhancement in skin hydration (28.12%), elasticity (18.81%), and collagen production (54.99%) following 12 weeks of eye cream application. Dermatological evaluations and participants' assessments reported a significant improvement in skin moisture, roughness, elasticity, as well as fine lines and wrinkles by week 8. CONCLUSION: The new anti-aging eye cream, enriched with the active complex, demonstrates comprehensive rejuvenating effects, effectively addressing aging concerns in the periorbital area, coupled with a high safety profile.

Evaluating the Impact of Oleocanthal and Oleacein on Skin Aging: Results of a Randomized Clinical Study.

The prevalence of skin aging and the request for effective treatments have driven dermatological research towards natural solutions. This study investigates the anti-aging efficacy of two bioactive natural polyphenols, Oleocanthal and Oleacein, in a skincare formulation. A single-blind, randomized clinical trial involved 70 participants, using a comprehensive exclusion criterion to ensure participant safety and study integrity. Participants applied the Oleocanthal and Oleacein 1% serum formulation twice daily for 30 days. The efficacy was objectively assessed using the VISIA® Skin Analysis System at baseline, after 15 days, and after 30 days. Results indicated significant wrinkle reduction in most groups. For women aged 45-79 years, the mean change was -33.91% (95% CI: -46.75% to -21.07%). For men aged 20-44 years, it was -51.93% (95% CI: -76.54% to -27.33%), and for men aged 45-79 years, it was -46.56% (95% CI: -58.32% to -34.81%). For women aged 20-44 years, the change was -25.68% (95% CI: -63.91% to 12.54%), not statistically significant. These findings highlight the potential of EVOO-derived polyphenols in anti-aging skincare, particularly for older adults. This research paves the way for further exploration into natural compounds in dermatology, particularly for aging skin management.